Questions about #82

[OhioCarBuff]

I've been using #9 via PC for years now as my go to product for times when only a light cleaning & polishing is needed, my usual process is clay-#9- LSP, and it works great. I'm looking into #82 instead of #9, my questions are would #82 work as well or better then #9 for this purpose, does #82 have ample TS polishing oils that you can go right to your LSP without doing a separate polishing step, does #82 work best with a yellow polishing pad or tan finishing pad (I know it's recommended to use #9 with a finishing pad, as it even shows on the picture of the bottle), and can you use #82 by hand on areas that you can't acess by the PC?

Thanks,
Matt

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Questions about #82

my questions are

1. Would #82 work as well or better then #9 for this purpose,

2. Does #82 have ample TS polishing oils that you can go right to your LSP without doing a separate polishing step,

3. Does #82 work best with a yellow polishing pad or tan finishing pad

1. Equal or the same, they are very similar products, most people could never tell the difference between two black panels, one polished with #9 and one polished with #82, for most people it's a matter of availability and the amount you want as M82 doesn't come in anything smaller than a quart bottle. M82 is a tad more aggressive, but again, they are both such mild products when it comes to their cleaning ability that most people would never notice a dramatic difference in cleaning ability.

2. Yes.

3. Either or, yellow pad for more cleaning or abrading power as the foam itself becomes part of the cleaning action, use the tan pad for less cleaning action.

[OhioCarBuff]

Re: Questions about #82

Thanks Mike, I'm going to give #82 a shot. I assume it can be used on areas by hand that can't be acessed by the PC. When your as thorough as most of us on here about proper washing technique, promptly removing bird droppings and the like, and keeping your car parked away from other cars as much as possible (hey the extra excercise is good for all of us) it seems all we need is an occasional cleaning by a product no more aggressive then #9.

Matt

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Questions about #82

I assume it can be used on areas by hand that can't be acessed by the PC.

Yes.

When your as thorough as most of us on here about proper washing technique, promptly removing bird droppings and the like, and keeping your car parked away from other cars as much as possible (hey the extra excercise is good for all of us) it seems all we need is an occasional cleaning by a product no more aggressive then #9.

Matt

Very correct, kind of ties in with our article on White Paint here.

http://autopia.org/forum/detailing-articles-videos/80676-lesson-white-paint.html#post817293

[Patman]

Re: Questions about #82

I've been wondering about how 82 would compare to 9 as well, as I am happy with the results I get with #9 but I was hoping that perhaps #82 would be a little easier to remove, as I do find #9 can sometimes be a bit hard to remove.

So how does #82 compare to #9 in terms of how easy it is to buff off?

[roushstage2]

Re: Questions about #82

I have used both and found M82 to be better IMO.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Questions about #82

I've been wondering about how 82 would compare to 9 as well, as I am happy with the results I get with #9 but I was hoping that perhaps #82 would be a little easier to remove, as I do find #9 can sometimes be a bit hard to remove.

So how does #82 compare to #9 in terms of how easy it is to buff off?

Having used both for a long time, I prefer #82 with the rotary and #9 with the DA. Meg's #82 has a little more cut than #9, but tends to be easier to manage when using the rotary buffer. With the DA, either one, but I like #9 as it has a little more TS oils, which is a real benefit especially when working on black or darker paint.

As for removal, the key is to work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down and then remove while still damp. The other key is to clean your pad constantly! Even a slight build-up can cause the product to gum up on the paint, making it difficult to remove. If you do have a gummed up spot, just lightly mist with #34 Final Inspection and remove with a MF towel.

Tim