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View Full Version : Tried the rotary out today, a few q's



Aurora40
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:02 PM
I tried it out on the hood of the Aurora today. On one side I used #80 and an 8006. On the other side I tried ZPC Fusion and an 8006.

One thing I noticed was that the paint never got remotely hot. It only got slightly warm (the garage was about 55F). I started out at about 1200 rpm, but that seemed absurdly slow, so I turned it up to about 1400 rpm.

Even that seemed pretty slow. I've used a rotary somewhat in the past, but not a lot. I had only used a DeWalt, and it seemed a lot more, I dunno, worked? at 1400 rpm. It was loud and blowing air and whatnot. The Hitachi seemed like it was barely doing anything. Maybe it's the smaller pad size? Is that what is responsible for the lack of heat too?

I moved the buffer slowly around, like a little less than an inch a second. But I didn't feel comfortable moving it more slowly than that.

Both the #80 and ZPC brought out even more of a gloss than was on the car. It was kind of neat since it was already in nice shape. When I see talented people use the rotary, I think it can actually make a nicer gloss than is possible with an orbital tool. It's not a matter of stepping down and taking longer with the PC, I think it just can't reach quite the same final finish, though it gets quite good. The ZPC minimized the random scratches better, but neither removed anything, not that I expected them to on the speed and pad I was using.

I barely splattered anything, I was nice and clean at the end. The ZPC splattered a bit at first as I guess I put down too much, and it's more runny.

Oh, one thing I kind of noticed was that to keep the rotary from pulling me around, it helped to slightly torque it opposite the direction of motion, i.e. apply torque such that it would lift the forward edge as the buffer is moving, but not enough to actually lift the pad. Is that an acceptable practice? It seems like when the pad is truly flat, the buffer wants to get pulled around by the pad, mostly in the direction of rotation.

Pete-FWA
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:20 PM
Originally posted by Aurora40

One thing I noticed was that the paint never got remotely hot. It only got slightly warm (the garage was about 55F). I started out at about 1200 rpm, but that seemed absurdly slow, so I turned it up to about 1400 rpm...Is that what is responsible for the lack of heat too?

Lower speed definitely keeps the heat down. Doesn't sound like you had a lot of downward force on the machine...am I correct? Even a smaller pad can get hot, if you push it. The lower ambient temperature helped keep your surface cool as well.



Originally posted by Aurora40

When I see talented people use the rotary, I think it can actually make a nicer gloss than is possible with an orbital tool. It's not a matter of stepping down and taking longer with the PC, I think it just can't reach quite the same final finish, though it gets quite good.

The rotary definitely is capable of more correction and much faster than the PC. M80 works very differently on the rotary than it does on the DA machines. Generally, the only time I ran it on the rotary is for 1 or 2 step express jobs. It was sort of a "quickie" product on those, but it's what I often use to achieve that final fine finish with a DA. Same product, but a very different range of quality


Originally posted by Aurora40
Oh, one thing I kind of noticed was that to keep the rotary from pulling me around, it helped to slightly torque it opposite the direction of motion, i.e. apply torque such that it would lift the forward edge as the buffer is moving, but not enough to actually lift the pad. Is that an acceptable practice? It seems like when the pad is truly flat, the buffer wants to get pulled around by the pad, mostly in the direction of rotation.

Did your pad have enough product on it? Generally, when a pad is broken in and it is properly loaded, the pads don't pull too much. With more experience, you'll know. As long as it didn't go dry today, you did fine.

With more practice, you'll learn about using the different muscles in different parts of each arm to keep that machine completely level. :xyxthumbs

Five Star
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:39 PM
I got mine in today too, haven't opened the box yet

I saw somewhere a chart that shows the rpm's to the dial settings.. but can't find it again :( don't know if the instructions have it.

I know that 1 is around 600 rpms, maybe you did have the speed too low?

as far as the other concerns Pete was right on the money

Aurora40
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:42 PM
Originally posted by Pete-FWA
Lower speed definitely keeps the heat down. Doesn't sound like you had a lot of downward force on the machine...am I correct? Even a smaller pad can get hot, if you push it. The lower ambient temperature helped keep your surface cool as well.
No pressure, just the weight of the machine. I didn't think 1,400 rpm was that low a speed, though, is it? I guess speed might depend on pad size, though, as the wider the pad at a given speed, the faster the outer edge is moving.


Originally posted by Pete-FWA
Did your pad have enough product on it? Generally, when a pad is broken in and it is properly loaded, the pads don't pull too much. With more experience, you'll know. As long as it didn't go dry today, you did fine.

With more practice, you'll learn about using the different muscles in different parts of each arm to keep that machine completely level. :xyxthumbs
I thought I had enough product. It spread out well and I could work it for a fair bit. I did notice with the ZPC that it pulled a lot less.

Yeah, I figure I'll get better at it the more I use it. Watching people who use it and just move the machine where they want, I'm really impressed by that. If you can make the rotary look easy/effortless, that really takes some skill. Not that I'm wrestling it or it's going everywhere, but it moves in a mostly straight line, not perfectly straight. :)

Aurora40
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:44 PM
Originally posted by Five Star
I got mine in today too, haven't opened the box yet

I saw somewhere a chart that shows the rpm's to the dial settings.. but can't find it again :( don't know if the instructions have it.

I know that 1 is around 600 rpms, maybe you did have the speed too low?

as far as the other concerns Pete was right on the money
Thankfully the tool has a speed chart right on it. 1=600, 2=1100, 3=1700 and so on at 600 rpm increments (except the 1 to 2 which is 500 for some reason).

Pete-FWA
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by Aurora40
No pressure, just the weight of the machine. I didn't think 1,400 rpm was that low a speed, though, is it? I guess speed might depend on pad size, though, as the wider the pad at a given speed, the faster the outer edge is moving.


1400-1500 is where I run almost all of my products. I can't recall running anything below 1000 and seeing that it's effective (either that or I lose my attention span since the work is being done so slowly:D )

Pete-FWA
Feb 7th, 2006, 05:51 PM
Originally posted by Aurora40
I thought I had enough product. It spread out well and I could work it for a fair bit. I did notice with the ZPC that it pulled a lot less.


M80 does seem to grab a fair amount when used on the rotary with W8000/8006 pads. Since the ZPC is runny, that's why it grabs less.

Going to post any pictures of your results? It's a great feeling getting that rotary to work, isn't it?

Aurora40
Feb 7th, 2006, 06:18 PM
Originally posted by Pete-FWA
Going to post any pictures of your results? It's a great feeling getting that rotary to work, isn't it?
Ehh, it just looks like a clean hood. It looked like that before too. :)

Yeah, I'm glad it went smoothly. I really want to jump in on the 'vette with it. I don't want to rush, but I am eager to get working on it.

Five Star
Feb 7th, 2006, 06:32 PM
did you get a smaller backing plate for the 6.5 in pads?

SiriusRIMZ
Feb 7th, 2006, 06:33 PM
I feel I can get a better end result if I spend more quality detail time with a rotary correcting problems than with a G100 correcting problems. I'd rather reserve the G100 for perfecting the what the rotary has repaired. I'm sticking with #83 for a rotary and #80 and #82 for my DA.

Aurora40
Feb 7th, 2006, 06:50 PM
Originally posted by Five Star
did you get a smaller backing plate for the 6.5 in pads?
Yeah, I got the Meguiar's W64 backing plate. It's also better for Meg's pads because they don't have an alignment hole. The Hitachi plate has a hole but you won't be able to use it with a Meg's pad. The Meg's plate has a protrusion to center the pad with.

Five Star
Feb 7th, 2006, 07:05 PM
as long as you got one.. I believe the hitachi one is 6.5 in.. so definately need the smaller backing plate.

just wanted to give you a heads-up.. but you have everything under control

Happy Rotary Polishing :xyxthumbs

Aurora40
Feb 8th, 2006, 06:16 AM
Originally posted by Five Star
as long as you got one.. I believe the hitachi one is 6.5 in.. so definately need the smaller backing plate.

just wanted to give you a heads-up.. but you have everything under control

Happy Rotary Polishing :xyxthumbs
Yeah, it seems more like 7". It is bigger than the 6.5" pads are. It seems like a nice backing plate, though.

Also, when I said the rotary seems capable of better gloss, I should have said "clarity". It's like when you compare the two finishes, as nice as the DA finish looked, it seems slightly hazed next to the more clear rotary finish. I dunno...

Edit: Oh, also the hood is aluminum not steel. I don't know if that has any effect on the temperatures, if it keeps them a bit lower?