View Full Version : Meguiar's Roadshow Goes To Dallas!

Mike Phillips
Feb 18th, 2006, 03:55 AM
Meguiar's Roadshow Goes To Dallas, Texas This Weekend!

This Saturday Wash Solutions (http://www.wash-solutions.com/) will host our first official off-site Meguiar's Detailing Class coordinated through our Meguiar's Online Discussion forum! With over 40 people signed-up it's going to be a fun day in Dallas!

Feb 18th, 2006, 11:30 AM
the class was great. alot of info i wasnt aware of. the classroom and the hands on were both educational. thanks to wash solutions for hosting and to barry for the gifts. i hope to make the autorama show tommorrow. to bad it was so cold for the class.

looks as though washsolutions might gain business. most of us didnt know they were there. i know where to get supplies from now.?:cool:

where do i sign up for the next one? ;)

Feb 18th, 2006, 12:15 PM
First of all I would like to Thank Mike (for braving the conditions) and WashSolutions for being a gracious host.
I've been a registered member on this forum for almost two years, and from day one I always wanted Meguiars to come to Dallas. Well it finally happened and I was too excited:bounce
Simply put, the class was very informative and it also shed light on little things that an average car crazy enthusiast may not pay attention to (like the instruction on how to apply the product to pad)..
Mike, thank you for coming we all see the passion you have for championing the Meguiars spirit, and we can all see how dedicated you are at instructing car crazy guys on proper technique. I hope this isn't the last time, and I also hope other cities in the continental U.S. get an opportunity to see you in action, as well as take advantage of the fellowship experienced among car crazy guys and gals in these classes. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!

Oh yeah, BARRY MEGUIAR we love you as well!!!!!:xyxthumbs

Mike Phillips
Feb 18th, 2006, 12:21 PM
Except for few stragglesrs, here's a class shot of most everyone that attended.


Mike Phillips
Feb 18th, 2006, 12:35 PM
Here's a shot of most of the members of the Wash Solutions crew including our man David, "Smitty", Smith on the far right. David's been working for Meguiar's for over 9 years with a combined total of 20 years in the car polishing business.

If you car club would like to schedule a clinic like this, you can't get any better than a class taught by Smitty... Send me an e-mail and I'll put you in contact with him or contact Wash Solutions (http://www.wash-solutions.com/) directly and ask for either Tony or Barry, they will hook you up!


Feb 18th, 2006, 12:36 PM
Great class, definitely worth the time! Thanks Mike for flying and teaching the class even though you were under the weather. Thanks also to Tony and the guys at WashSolutions.

I thought I knew a lot after hanging out on the forum here but I certainly learned some knew things. Mike's stories were very interesting and made the class portion zoom by. The hands on demonstrations were invaluable and the main reason I came to the class.

Thanks again for bringing the class to Dallas!


Feb 18th, 2006, 01:02 PM
My thanks to everyone involved in making this Detailing Day happen. I learned a number of key tips even though I've spent hours and hours in these forums. Wash Solutions...good to know a local place where we can buy a large selection of Meguiar's products. We'll be back.

BTW: Steve, we expect to see pictures of your BMW when you finish what we started today.

Feb 18th, 2006, 01:18 PM
Great class. The presentaion and demonstration were very helpful. This forum is a useful resource, but it cannot replace seeing something in person. Prior to attending I had a number of questions. All of them were answered today.

Thanks for offering the class in Dallas

Feb 18th, 2006, 01:28 PM
This was well worth the wait! I learned everything I wanted to and more. Mike is a consummate professional. Not only does he know the product inside and out but he really knows how to make paint look brillant.:bow

Tony and Ed at Wash Solutions got me all re-stocked with Meguiar's product (as I have been having trouble finding the professional items I needed) and it was great meeting your regional rep David Smith.

I sure hope I don't have to wait another 2 years to get a detail day like this again.

Thanks Barry and the Meguiar's team for sending Mike our way!:xyxthumbs

Feb 18th, 2006, 01:37 PM
Great Class! I learned more than I thought I would! Sorry for me straggling in late, roads were a pain this morning with traffic.

Mike you are a great teacher, thanks again for taking time out of your busy scedule to come to Texas! I bet the rental car company will be dumfounded by a perfectly polished trunk and the rest of the car full of swirls!

Have a safe trip home Mike.

Thanks again to Wash Solutions, I didn't even know a place like that existed in Dallas! Thanks for hosting Mike and Meguiar's!

FWIW, we should hold our own clincs in Dallas, we seem to have a good group of people and a vast amount of knowledge between us.

I also look forward to Meguiar's returning, the class was really benifical, and I know a bunch of my friends would like to go next time.

I cant wait for warmer weather!

Feb 18th, 2006, 02:37 PM
To the Meguiar's Corporation,
Thank you for having this event in Dallas. Mike is the perfect teacher and trainer. Watching him do the demonstrations gave me the confidence that with practice I could be a great detailer too. After hearing Mike's excellent teaching in the classroom, it's easy to understand why Meguiar's products are the best. Wash Solutions you are the best around. Thanks for be such gracious hosts at this event.

Again Thank You for coming to Dallas,

Feb 18th, 2006, 03:40 PM
Mike, Smitty, Tony and the rest at Wash Solutions, thank-you for putting on a great class and I was glad to see so many fellow members were able to make it to the class in spite of the horrible weather (freezing rain and drizzle). We even had to wipe the frozen rain off a couple cars to demonstrate the products and their proper usage.

It would be great if we could make this an annual event, I am sure there is more than enough interest in Dallas to generate full classes each time.

....and Mike, I hope you get to feeling better. It was great seeing you again, my friend. :)

Feb 18th, 2006, 03:51 PM
Mike ,thank you so much for the class ,well worth the 550 mile round trip for me .You did a great job and I learned more than I thought I would. Hope you get to feeling better . I might even try my hand at the rotary buffer !!! ,I already have a DA and now I know I will make better use of it !!!:bow :bow :bow

Feb 18th, 2006, 10:24 PM

Thanks so much for flying in to do this. To David Smith, and the guys at Wash Solutions, thanks so much for hosting this event...it was GREAT! Like Mojo, I also travelled from Houston, 480 miles round trip, to attend the show! It was nice to finally learn that I really do NOT know how to use my DA, but now I can achieve the results I have been looking for for years!

Met a lot of cool people and really enjoyed the event.

My Vette was nice and clean leaving Houston this morning, and it is absolutely FILTHY now :) Good thing I stocked up on some detailing supplies so I can get her cleaned up again! :xyxthumbs

TX Harley Guy
Feb 19th, 2006, 03:58 AM
Great class, I learned a lot, Ive been making a lot of mistakes, its a wonder my truck has any paint left on it. You can read "how to's" all day but nothing beats 1/1, or 1/30? instuction.
I could tell Mike was feeling really bad but did his thing anyway and didnt miss a beat, thanks Mike, great class, take care of your self and get better soon.
Also the gang from Wash Solutions, a new toy store for me:cool: and David were great, big thanks also.
And it takes a real enthusiast (nut) to go out on a bitterly cold, icey day, drive xxxx miles to learn how to polish a car, you guys and girls are my kind of people!

Car Crazy.

thanks to Barry too!

Big J :coolgleam

Feb 19th, 2006, 04:58 AM
AWESOME Class! Many thanks to Mike for coming out even though he was clearly under the weather and not feeling all that great.

I know I learned alot. I had always been hesitant about taking anything mechanical to my paint, I figured I'd always do more harm than good...

...Mike gave me the confidence that I can do this myself with better results than most production "detailing" shops...

Thanks again!

Feb 19th, 2006, 06:11 AM
Originally posted by TX Harley Guy
Wash Solutions, a new toy store for me:cool:

Wash Solutions is even better than the tool section at Sears! :xyxthumbs

I've been doing business with them for more than 10 years now and you cannot find a more well run, well stocked Meguiars distributor with such excellent, well-informed staff anywhere. :)

Feb 19th, 2006, 06:15 AM
thanks alot to all the folks at meguiars and wash solutions for the great detail day, and a big thanks to mike for giving up a weekend with his family to make time for us. i feel like i will be able to sharpen some tecniques with the knowledge mike so graciously shared :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs

Feb 19th, 2006, 07:48 AM
Great Class!! Thanks for the info. Mike is a great teacher. My wife, who is not a "car care" person, even enjoyed the class. We are looking forward to using the knowledge and trying your products on our new car.

Shotist & Yvette

Feb 19th, 2006, 08:24 AM
i thought the class was very good.. i learned a lot of things from Mike and i want the DA polisher really bad now. :xyxthumbs

everything was great, but if i had one complaint i would say that i noticed not only myself, but a few others annoyed at certain people that kept disrupting the class

Feb 19th, 2006, 03:36 PM
Sounds like another great Meguiar's Training Day!!! :xyxthumbs
But geez, with over 40 of you there, surely somebody else got some pictures of the days events? :showpics:

Feb 19th, 2006, 06:07 PM
Some pics, I didn't have time to weed through them. It was tough to shoot in there. Dimly lit warehouse type place, didn't have my speedflash, so was stuck trying to catch people when they weren't moving or closeups with the flash... Sigh...

Anyway, you get the idea... There's about a 100 pics here...

Clicky Click Click (http://www.trilogyf150.com/gallery/index.php?twg_album=Meguiars_Dallas)...

Feb 19th, 2006, 06:17 PM
Thanks a bunch, Logan :)

Feb 19th, 2006, 08:08 PM
Thank you so much Wash Solutions and Mike and Smitty for putting on a great detailing clinic. Great selection for my purchases too. Makes me wish i lived closer to dallas but unfortunately im 3 1/2 hours away.

Anyways, thanks again for taking one for the team Mike when you were sick and all and giving us one hell of a show. I know every single one of us learned at least something from this and that is worth more than any words can be said.

Be sure to keep up informed on any other Texas clinic cuz im sure that many of us would travel again. At least i know i would! =P

Feb 20th, 2006, 04:02 AM
Originally posted by Logan@Trilogy
Some pics, I didn't have time to weed through them. It was tough to shoot in there. Dimly lit warehouse type place, didn't have my speedflash, so was stuck trying to catch people when they weren't moving or closeups with the flash... Sigh...

Anyway, you get the idea... There's about a 100 pics here...

Clicky Click Click (http://www.trilogyf150.com/gallery/index.php?twg_album=Meguiars_Dallas)...

Thanks for the pics dude!

Feb 20th, 2006, 06:48 AM
Awesome class. Thanks for fighting through the illness Mike.


George G.
Feb 20th, 2006, 07:17 AM
Another "Thanks!" to all the hosts involved. It was real informative and I too learned a few things about PC technic. Can't wait for some warmer weather to put my new goodies to use.

Hope you're recovering Mike.:xyxthumbs

Feb 21st, 2006, 09:20 AM
Thanks for posting all those pics, Logan! :bow

Mike Phillips
Feb 22nd, 2006, 07:18 PM
This is probably the hardest write-up I've ever tried to create mostly because as Logan stated above, the warehouse lighting, while appropriate for a warehouse, was somewhat dim for taking and capturing good photos... so if everyone will keep that in mind I'll try to resize the best of what we captured and share the class held on this day in this thread...

Forum member Steve's aka hartgeh5s was kind enough to let us use his black 1995 M540i as our demonstration car. Here you can see the entire class surrounding his car as we begin the hands-on portion of the class.


Mike Phillips
Feb 22nd, 2006, 07:42 PM
Basically what we do in our hands-on portion of the class is re-enforce what we learn in the classroom portion of the class, which is,

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2409)Step 1 Wash
Step 2 Clean
Step 3 Polish
Step 4 Protect
Step 5 Maintain

In our particular situation, because of the limited time and the icy cold weather, instead of washing the car to start with, we used Meguiar's Quik Detailer to wipe the car clean so that we could evaluate the condition of the finish with both our eyes and our hands.

Here's a few folks using their hands and their sense of touch to feel for above surface bonded contaminants after we wiped the finish down, but before we did any prep work.

Our surface evaluation using our hands and our eyes, (with the aid of a a Xeon light to expose the swirls), revealed the finish on the BMW had both bonded contaminants and swirls.

Inspecting for Above Surface Bonded Contaminants


Without the Swirl Finder, the finish looked pretty good in the dimly lit warehouse, but with the aid of the Swirl Finder it was easy to see the clear coat finish was filled with hundreds of thousands of swirls



Feb 22nd, 2006, 08:19 PM
that last picture hurts my eyes :eek:

Mike Phillips
Feb 23rd, 2006, 06:10 AM
Before claying, we quickly recapped the benefits of claying the finish using detailing clay.
* Removes above surface bonded contaminants that normal washing won't remove.
* Enables wax to bond or adhere better to the paint and thus last long and protect longer.
* Restores smoothness to the finish and this restores and improves gloss for a beautiful finish.
* Unlike an old-fashioned rubbing or polishing compounds, claying does all of the above without removing paint and without instilling scratches during the process.http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2DallasExplainingClaying.jpg

To clay the car we used Meguiar's new Smooth Surfaceâ„¢ Clay Kit (http://meguiars.com/?auto-detailing-clay/Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit) as well as the Mild Clay (http://meguiars.com/?pro-auto-detailing-clay/Detailing-Clay-Mild)from Meguiar's Professional Line, both of which Wash Solutions carries in stock. Meguiar's new Smooth Surface Clay Kit comes with two individually wrapped clay bars so you can use one clay bar and save the other clay bar until you've completely used up the first clay bar.

Two clay bars in the new Smooth Surface Clay Kit


Here two class members try their hands at claying for the first time...


If you wipe off any leftover residue from the Quik Detailer as you're moving around the car with a microfiber like Meguiar's Supreme Shine Microfiber, the paint will be ready to move on to the next step.


[b]After claying the car we asked a few people to turn their clay wafers over and show the results of the kind of contaminants being removed from the paint, look at the icky brown gunk that was actually bonded to the clear coat that the detailing clay removed. Often times you eyes cannot see this type of build-up, but the clay bar will remove it and reveal it to your eyes.



Then everyone felt the amazing difference in before & after...


Mike Phillips
Feb 23rd, 2006, 09:17 AM
After claying the finish, the next step is to remove the swirls. Meguiar's classifies swirls and scratches as below surface defects. Below surface defects are removed after the above surface bonded contaminants have been removed, the idea being that you first remove the contaminants on top of the surface to get them out of the way so you can then go after the defects below the surface, so clay first, then use a product formulated to safely remove swirls and scratches.

Here's a shot of the paint just above the BMW emblem on the hood of Steve's BMW.


And here's a section cropped out of the photo above. Neither have been retouched in any way.


What we're going to do is tape-off a section in this area and demonstrate the technique for applying a hand applied paint cleaner like Meguiar's ScratchX (http://www.meguiars.com/?auto-paint-cleaners/ScratchX) to remove a little bit of clear coat paint in this one section which is how you remove the swirls and scratches.

To understand more about what it means to remove swirls and scratches you can read this article in the Hot Topics sub-forum in the Information Station (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=82). I have also included it below so you don't have to click out of this thread to read the article.

Begin Article
What it Means to Remove a Scratch (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7228)

In order to remove a scratch out of anything, metal, plastic glass, paint, etc. You must,

Remove material around the scratch until the surface is level or equal to the lowest depths of the scratch or scratches

The below diagram is for paint but the the same thing applies to just about an surface material or coating you may be contemplating working on, (Aluminum, Glass, Stainless Steel, Plastic Lens, etc.)


In essences, you don't really remove a scratch, you remove material around a scratch. This being true, then the big question becomes,

Is the material or coating workable

That is, can you abrade small particles of it while leaving behind an original looking surface. For example, some things you can abrade, (remove the scratch), but you can never completely remove all of your abrading marks, thus you can't really fix the problem, all you can do is exchange one set of scratches with a different set of scratches.

The next questions is, how thick is the surface material you're working on or how thick is the coating you're working on. Remember, you are limited to what you can do by the thickness of these to things, (surface coating or surface material), and whether or not this surface is workable.

Sometimes you don't know what you can so until you try. It's always a good idea to test your choice of products, applicator materials and application process, (By hand or by machine), to an inconspicuous area. If you cannot make a small area look good with your product, applicator and process, you will not be able to make the entire surface look good. It's always a good idea to test first and error on the side of caution, versus make a mistake you cannot undo.

End Article

Understanding that in order to remove swirls or scratches out of an automotive clear coat finish actually means that you have to gently remove a little bit of paint surrounding the scratches is important because there is actually a science behind removing a scratch, while at the same time not instilling scratches. We're going to show you how Meguiar's has mastered this science, which will empower you to do just this on you own car in your own garage.

What we've done here is we've placed some Blue Painter's Tape down in the section we're going to work to show the dramatic before and after differences from correctly applying a hand-applied paint cleaner to remove swirls and in this case an etching left in the paint by a bird dropping.

In the photo below the light shows the swirls in our Control Area, and until we move the light up to where my finger is pointing, you cannot see the Bird Dropping Etching, but in the next photo, you will be able to. This photo is just the Framing Photo to give perspective to what we're about to do by hand and to document that the swirls are everywhere in the finish.


[b]Here's the section we're going to work, the section above the tape line that includes this bird dropping etching.


Here's a close-up of the etching for your viewing pleasure


While the clear coat on this BMW has more Bird Dropping Etching's in other random places that Steve can go after on his own time, what's important to keep in mind is that the swirls you see here are actually evenly distributed throughout the entire finish.

Swirls in your car's paint is the Number One Customer Complaint about automotive finishes. Modern clear coats are Scratch-Sensitive, so even while they may last longer than traditional single-stage paints, we have to be more careful about the way we care for them as well as whose product we trust when it comes to choosing products for use with our cars.

What we're going to do is to show everyone here two procedures and the products to use with these procedures to remove the swirls and restore optical clarity to the clear coat finish. By restoring clarity to the clear coat finish, we'll be able to see the beauty of the color coat under the clear coat finish.

Mike Phillips
Feb 23rd, 2006, 11:25 AM
The techniques were about to use can all be found right here in this article, How to remove a defect by hand using ScratchX (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1516)

When removing swirls, scratches and etchings out of the paint, you want to first apply some ScratchX to your applicator pad.



Note that I applied the ScratchX to the outer edge of the applicator pad and not the center.

Here's a quick lesson on how to hold an applicator pad when applying paint cleaners, polishes and waxes. As when you grip the applicator pad, your 4-fingers, (the fingers that will be doing the work), will be placed on the outside edge of the applicator pad on one side and your thumb will be sandwiching the applicator pad between your fingers like this,


When you turn the pad over, your 4-fingers should be placed around the outer edge of the foam pad but still inside the edge about a half inch or so...


Because your 4 fingers applying the pressure over the foam are placed around the outer perimeter of the applicator pad, you want to apply your dollop of ScratchX in this area also on the face of the pad. Like this,


When you're ready to start, the first thing you want to do is spread the ScratchX out over the area you're going to be working on, this acts so simply spread the product-out



--> After <-- you have spread the product out over the area you're going to work on...
--> Then <--, begin to work the product against the finish.




When applying ScratchX with the intended goal of removing swirls and scratches, the idea is to work the microscopic diminishing abrasives against the finish with some force so that you will in essence cause the diminishing abrasives to take little bites out of the paint in an effort to level the upper most surface with the lowest depth of the scratch.

You cannot get results by merely wiping ScratchX on, (gently, like a face creme), as this won't work. ScratchX must be worked against the finish by you putting a little passion behind the pad.

After you have worked the ScratchX against the finish for a 1-3 minutes, depending upon how large or small an area you carve out and how aggressively you're working it, you can stop and wipe any excess residue off the paint because ScratchX does not need to dry before removing it. Often times, if you're working on a darker color paint, the product will start out as an opaque, or whitish color film and after you've effectively worked it against the finish it will turn clear and oily looking, somewhat like baby oil or Vaseline would look if you were to apply it to some paint.

The idea is to work this product against the finish, the diminishing abrasives do their work and after they have done their work and broken down, (now they're no longer working, or abrading the paint, it's now time to remove the product as their is no further benefit to the paint or the process to allow the product to dry.
1. Apply
2. Work against paint
3. Wipe off
4. Repeat if necessary
In most cases, in order to remove swirls and scratches, you will need to apply around 3 applications over each section. Sometimes more. In the case this BMW, we removed the swirls after 3 applications and about 99.9% of the Bird Dropping etching with a total of 5 applications.

How many applications of a hand applied product like ScratchX is determined by,
A) Paint hardness or softness.
B) The depth of the defect you're trying to remove.
B) Your skill and ability - Practice makes perfect.

Often times the question of which direction to move your hand comes up either at a class like this or on our forum... we have you're answer right here...

Circles or Straight Lines? (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6442)

My own personal preferences are to spread the product out using circular motions and the to work the product against the finish using back & forth, or straight-line motions and then finish the area off with some cover passes in circles, so I use a combination of both.

Remember, after each application you will need to remove any left over residue from off the paint before applying fresh ScratchX so you don't dilute, or adulterate the fresh product with the old product.


Mike Phillips
Feb 23rd, 2006, 11:57 AM
After removing the swirls, the next step in Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2409) is to apply the pure polish.
Step 1 Wash
Step 2 Clean
Step 3 Polish <--
Step 4 Protect
Step 5 Maintain
This is an optional step, but a step that most serious enthusiast will follow a dedicated paint cleaning step with if they have a medium to dark colored car because it will tend to add richness, gloss and clarity to the paint over and above what the paint cleaner by itself will do.

In this case, Deep Crystal Polish (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=A-21) which is a non-abrasive pure polish.

In Meguiar's line, we offer two types of polishes, cleaner/polishes, which contain a diminishing abrasive, and pure polishes, which are completely non-abrasive and are used solely for the purpose of creating brilliant gloss. Deep Crystal Polish is a pure polish.


The way you apply a pure polish is akin to applying a skin lotion to your skin. That is you apply the polish to a small section at a time, work the product in thoroughly.


After thoroughly, (but gently with care and passion), remove any excess polish with a clean, soft premium quality microfiber polishing cloth or 100% cotton towel.

Like ScratchX a paint cleaner, it is not necessary to let a pure polish like Deep Crystal Polish dry before removing it. Allowing a polish to dry will not add anything beneficial to the process, so after you work it in well, go a head and remove it.

At this point, we have cleaned and polished the finish. The cleaning step removed the swirls and the polishing step restored optical clarity, depth, reflectivity, richness of color and brilliant gloss.

Next we're going to apply a coating of Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax (http://www.meguiars.com/?liquid-car-waxes/NXT-Generation-Tech-Wax)

Note to self, remember to remove the Safety Seal off all new bottles before the class :wall: :wall: :wall:


We're going to allow the the wax to dry until it Swipes Clear, you can learn more about what this means by clicking this link,
How to tell when a Meguiar's wax is ready to remove - The Swipe Test (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2166)

Mike Phillips
Feb 23rd, 2006, 02:52 PM
While the NXT Tech Wax was drying, we moved on to the G100 Dual Action Polisher Demonstration and this gave the NXT Tech Wax some time to dry. Remember, temperature and humidity affect drying times for waxes and in this case it was cold and humid. I don't remember how long we let the wax dry, but our Swipe Test proved to us the wax had fully dried when we came back to it, so we when ahead and removed it using a folded Supreme Shine Microfiber polishing cloth.


It took a few minutes, to locate where the bird dropping etching was originally,


After a few moments we did find it however, or I should say we found where it wasn't :D


After the wax had been removed, the differences were very dramatic. you can see by the below pictures that we removed 99.9% of the swirls and the etching left by the bird dropping was almost non-existent.






Feb 23rd, 2006, 05:49 PM
Wow great pictures mike! Thanks for posting even though you are under the weather! Feel better soon!

and for anyone who cares, I'm the young dashing fellow in the khaki jacket with the green trim around the collar checking for bonded surface contaminates... and yes I was the late one hehe.:xyxthumbs :db:

Feb 24th, 2006, 03:58 AM
Looking good Mike.:xyxthumbs

Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 06:24 AM
Just to note, someone e-mailed me and asked me why in some of the pictures the paint appears to be blue while in other pictures the paint appears to be black, the answer is I don't know why.

I brought my camera, a Cannon 6.3 Mega Pixel Digital Rebel and one of the forum members at the class had the same camera only a couple of years newer and with over 8.0 Mega Pixels resolution.

Most of the pictures were taken by Logan with his camera and then give to me to copy on to my hard drive. As a practice, I don't manipulate photos except to crop and resize, which doesn't alter their color or appearance, just their size.

My camera has the standard lens while Logan's camera had a lens I'm not familiar with, that could explain the differences.

In the big picture, and I'm sure all that were there will back me up on this, the changes in before and after as far as removing the defects and restoring a better than new finish were dramatic and real and demonstrated in a way that anyone present at this class could duplicate with their own hands in their own garage.

I have a few more photos to wade through and upload which I plan on doing today.

Feb 24th, 2006, 06:24 AM

Your broke the steps down very well!

Even though I know a lot more than I used to I feel that each time I read a new post whether it is an old topic I already know it still feels like Im getting something out of it that I may have missed throughout the years!

I will lay my Scratch X on first.

Excellent as always - Keep up the good work. Thanks.

Feb 24th, 2006, 06:31 AM
I dont know if I ever paid that much attention to how I was holding the applicator pad.

Do you rotate it at all to 'expose' clean pad, or keep using the same area for all 3 applications of ScratchX? Or rotate at all as you work around the car with a polish or wax?

Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 06:41 AM
Originally posted by Murr1525
I don't know if I ever paid that much attention to how I was holding the applicator pad.

Do you rotate it at all to 'expose' clean pad, or keep using the same area for all 3 applications of ScratchX? Or rotate at all as you work around the car with a polish or wax?

Generally, you would hold the applicator in the same place for all three applications, however it's always a good idea to turn the pad over after each application and inspect it for any dirt particles that may have entered into the process and if discovered, remove them from the applicator pad or switch to a new pad.

This information is actually in the Meguiar's FAQ (http://www.meguiars.com/faq/) somewhere.

Feb 24th, 2006, 07:27 AM
Thanks Mike,

I dont know where it is in the FAQ, I dont see anything on how to apply products, or applicators, etc. Must be really buried.

Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 07:58 AM
Originally posted by Murr1525
Thanks Mike,

I don't know where it is in the FAQ, I don't see anything on how to apply products, or applicators, etc. Must be really buried.

The part about turning your pad over and inspecting for dirt particles is buried in there somewhere, not the other techniques. :)

Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 08:35 AM
After learning the proper techniques for using your hands, we then moved on to how-to use Meguiar's G-100 (http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-car-detailing-accessories/Electric-Dual-Action-Polisher) to remove swirls and restore a show car finish.

We actually followed the steps outlined in this how-to article, skipping the M83 step and starting right in at the M80 step.

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2965)

First we went over the basics, such as,

* Ergonomic stance - so that you don't hurt your back
* Location of the on/off switch and how important it is to not turn on the machine until the face of the pad is in direct contact with the finish and likewise to never lift the face of the pad off the finish until first turning the machine off.
* Keeping the cord from dragging over the finish by placing it over your shoulder.
* Pad choice.
* Product choice.
* Speed setting options.
* Product placement on the face of the pad.
* Amount of product to use initially.
* Amount of product to use after the pad has been broken in.
* Determining how large of an area to work at one time.
* Spreading the product out before working it in.
* Arm Speed - Slowing down for good results during the cleaning step.
* Downward pressure.
* Path of travel and changing directions.
* Overlapping passes.
* Overlapping section.
* How long to buff one section.
* Re-polishing a section before moving on.
* Speed setting for applying a wax.
* Pad selection for applying a wax.
* Pressure and Arm Speed for applying a wax.
* Using the Swipe Test.
* Removing wax using a Microfiber polishing bonnet.
* Pressure and Speed Setting for removing wax.
* Cleaning a bonnet on-the-fly.
* Cleaning foam pads after use and on-the-fly.And probably a few other things I've left out :) )

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2DallasDATraining3.jpg http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2DallasDATraining2.jpg

After recapping how to use the G100 Dual Action Polisher and then demonstrating the techniques for using it, we then asked for a volunteered from the audience to show all the big, strong Texas guys how to work magic on paint


After a few moments on her own, we then gave a little hands-on training to help keep the focus on holding the pad flat, downward pressure, arm speed and path-of-travel.


In a few more moments she was polishing like a Pro!



Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 10:36 AM
After the training session with the G100 Dual Action Polisher, a number of people wanted to learn some advanced procedures such as how to use the rotary buffer. For this demonstration we borrowed the deck-lid on my rental car.


The paint was horribly swirled and scratched as is the norm for most rental car so we ran a tape-line down the center of the deck-lid and clean, polished and waxed the passenger's side.

We used the below combination after wiping the finish clean and claying it to remove any above surface bonded contaminants...
1) Rotary Buffer/1400 RPM/W-7006/M84
2) Rotary Buffer/1400 RPM/W-8006/M80
3) G100 Dual Action Polisher/5.0 Speed Setting/W-8006/M80
4) G100 Dual Action Polisher/3.0 Speed Setting/W-9006/NXT Tech Wax
And here are the results...




Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 11:57 AM
After the rotary demonstration that pretty much brought us up to the 3:00pm time and everyone had the opportunity to purchase the products and tools they had just learned how to use from the hard working folks at Wash Solutions.



I couldn't help notice that in one of their glass display cases they had a small collection of antique Meguiar's products so I did my best to capture a couple of photos of them through the glass.


[b]Confidence is high that Meguiar's actually manufactured this product for Buick. I have a cousin of the Buick Glaze in the can which you can see in the bottle to the left.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2WashSolutionsBuickGlazec.jpg http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/BuickGlaze01.jpg

And they have this really nice example of M03 Machine Glaze in a glass bottle...


Mike Phillips
Feb 24th, 2006, 12:25 PM
Before everyone left for the day, my new friend Logan grabbed my camera and snagged some shots of some of the rigs our attendees drove to the class in, there were a number of nice rides that had already left, but here's what we got...






Here's Tony of Wash Solution's personal ride...


Here's Smitty's Meguiar's Tahoe...


And that wraps up the Detailing Class in Dallas, Texas! :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs

A big thank you to everyone that came, and even though I was a little under the weather I still had a great time meeting each of you and working with you on this day. :bigups

Feb 24th, 2006, 06:25 PM
Great write-up and pics Mike....and you even got a shot of my car, as you can see here with the red arrows pointed at it. ;)


Feb 24th, 2006, 06:31 PM
thats a sweet truck! isnt that the new harley davidson edition F-150:cool:

Feb 25th, 2006, 04:18 AM
The short answer on the difference in the photo's is, I'm a dummy. I forgot to remove the UV filter I had on the lense, that impacts the coloring of photos taken under incandescents and flourescents... :( Whoops.

On the Truck, it's Trilogy Motorsports Harley F150 S/C. Supercharged, Mid-length headers, 15" Baer brakes, etc. My personal blog/gallery for the truck is at http://www.trilogyf150.com

I really loved the event, though not so much lovin' the idea of all the paint real-estate on the truck, even with the DA, whooooooooo boy, it'll be a long polish job... :)

Mike Phillips
Feb 25th, 2006, 05:31 AM
Originally posted by Logan@Trilogy
The short answer on the difference in the photo's is, I'm a dummy. I forgot to remove the UV filter I had on the lens, that impacts the coloring of photos taken under incandescents and flourescents... :( Whoops.
First, thank you for playing, Camera Man at the event :bow

Second, I knew there was a simple answer for the difference. In my position, I never mess with, or modify the photos showing defects and before and after with programs like PhotoShop, (Which I don't own), because the enemy is always waiting at the gate looking for opportunity, so I just don't do it. I would rather post the honest results using the photos I have, (Like I did), and answer any questions after the fact than give the enemy ammo for whatever their nefarious reasons might me.

I really loved the event, though not so much lovin' the idea of all the paint real-estate on the truck, even with the DA, whooooooooo boy, it'll be a long polish job... :)

Take heart, while it is a big truck with a lot of surface area to tackle, it can be done by one person in a day, you just have to stay focused.

Here's a forum friend, kromdom, that attended on of our Saturday classes with a similar truck only his was Swirl City, using what he learned at a class just like the one in Dallas, and after purchasing the G100 and the associated products, the next weekend he tackled his truck and then posted the awesome write-up to our forum, I've included the link and a few photos...

SWIRLS BE GONE! BLACK is BEAUTIFUL AGAIN! (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2840)

Originally posted by kromdom
Firstly, thanks to MIKE for hosting a detail day for HTSC (Harley Trucks of Southern California)...learned a ton to say the least. Special thanks also to 2hotford for his tips and to all the knowledge in this forum. The September special was just icing on the cake.

Here is my tonneau cover:








Check out the thread, it's inspiring...

Feb 26th, 2006, 02:53 AM
Mike ,I want thank you and Mequiars aagin for this ,I will be heading outside in a few to do some much needed cleaning on all 3 of my rides.It has been nasty here since the class. Both sides to your class were great in the classroom and in the garage. I hope you keep your class on the road and bring it to Houston ,you did an outstanding job! :bow :bow

Feb 26th, 2006, 12:53 PM
Originally posted by Logan@Trilogy
The short answer on the difference in the photo's is, I'm a dummy. I forgot to remove the UV filter I had on the lense, that impacts the coloring of photos taken under incandescents and flourescents... :( Whoops.

On the Truck, it's Trilogy Motorsports Harley F150 S/C. Supercharged, Mid-length headers, 15" Baer brakes, etc. My personal blog/gallery for the truck is at http://www.trilogyf150.com

I really loved the event, though not so much lovin' the idea of all the paint real-estate on the truck, even with the DA, whooooooooo boy, it'll be a long polish job... :)

You can still tell the dramatic difference in the before and after shots, even though the color had a bluish tint. You can tell how the swirls disappeared and the bird drop etch mark was no longer visible.

I thought maybe the camera white balance was set to incandescent or something. The external flash (430 or 580EX) sends white balance information to the camera and some times that can cause the color to vary. If you were using external flash it couldn't compensate for the filter. If you weren't using it, that would be an interesting experiment to see if the flash can compensate for the filter by altering the white balance information.

The exposure was fine, it was not under or overexposed. That has to be hard to do when photographing a highly reflective subject up close.