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View Full Version : Learned a few lessons



Aurora40
Mar 5th, 2006, 02:18 PM
I decided to try out #84 and #83 by rotary today. So I washed up the Nissan and prepped the hood for surgery.

A few things I learned were that taping the high-spots makes sense to me now. I should have taped off the tops of teh fenders, as the hood isn't flush and sits lower than them. They got scuffed pretty good, to the point of color transfer. But they polished up ok, so it may have been transfer from the inner edge. When I go to polish the 'vette's hood, I will tape the high rises where the middle of the hood buldges up.

I also learned a bit about speed and working the product. Everything was with 6.5" Meg's pads. The first section I did with a cutting pad and #84 at 1500 rpm. I made a couple of passes but stopped while the product was still cloudy. The hazing was intense after I buffed it off. I then re-polished it again but made twice as many passes, going until the product just started to clear and vanish. The quality of the finish was much better, though there was still a holograming, and some spots of haze. I did the rest of one half the hood this way, then hit it with DACP and a polishing pad.

The second half of the hood, I decided to try to put more heat into it, so I turned the buffer up to 1700 rpm. This resulted in a much better finish, though there was still noticeable holograming and spots of haze. I still never felt more than a warm amount of heat, and often no discernable heat at all.

The DACP left an excellent finish when used with a polishing pad and 1500 rpm. I was also AMAZED by how easy it was to use. This stuff is a real bear for me by orbital polisher, it gums up, can be hard to remove, sometimes hazes from drying too quickly. It does good correction, but I'd never want to do a big area that way, and always had to follow with something else. By rotary, the DACP was a DREAM. It worked beautifully, and had a good working time. Buffed until it started to clear, then it wiped off easy and left a great finish.

Also, going from a cutting pad and #84 to #83 and a polishing pad is like going from a rotary to a Cyclo in terms of keeping the polisher steady. I was fighting it a bit with the #84/cutting, but the #83/polishing was easy buffing.

I don't seem to put heat into any paint. I work slowly, but maybe it's the 6.5" pad that does it. I imagine they don't make the heat at the same rpm as an 8" pad does. I'm happy with that but wonder if I should be trying to put a little more heat in? Is it a necessary part of the process?

Also, I believe I will start with DACP and a polishing pad on the Corvette. It probably won't cut it, but maybe it will. I am wondering if DACP and a cutting pad is a bad combo? Maybe it's too much pad for the product?

Anyway, I felt very content afterwards. I gained a bit more skill, didn't ruin anything, and the Nissan looks somewhat good. I Blackfired the hood and #21'd the rest of the car. :xyxthumbs

gbackus
Mar 5th, 2006, 03:09 PM
The cutting pads will skip, hop, jump and splatter until they are properly broken in. I hate breaking in new cutting pads, but once they are broken in, they are MUCH easier to work with.

Mosca
Mar 5th, 2006, 04:02 PM
I was just about to say the same thing about the cutting pads. I prefer working a little bit longer with the polishing pad.

Instead of #83 and the cutting pad, try #84 and the polishing pad. I get more easily controlled action that way, both in the sense of controlling the movement of the tool and in the sense of controlling the amount of work it's doing.


Tom

Superior Shine
Mar 5th, 2006, 05:31 PM
Mist a little final touch on a new cutting pad to prevent it from hopping and skipping.

pepseeboy
Mar 7th, 2006, 05:31 PM
Might I suggest that when you are coming to an edge that you tilt the buffer so the pad is going off the edge instead of coming toward the edge, this will help with burning an edge especially with a cutting pad