View Full Version : Compounding

Jul 18th, 2006, 05:35 PM
I just wanted to ask some of you guys. I have buffed with 3m perfect it II and actually held the buffer in spots cranked up pretty good and NEVER burned paint. I have tried on junk panels of course. On more expensive cars I have had more damage with a foam pad, with trim not paint. I was just reading some back posts and people worried about burning paint.

Maybe I was lucky, but I am going to be getting a g100 soon and I know for sure it will not burn any paint. I have however seen a rotary rip through some home garage paint jobs.

Not saying it cant be done but just to ease the pc and g100 guys.

Jul 19th, 2006, 07:03 PM
Most of my experience is with a rotary with PC being new to me and yes the dangerousness of a rotary is a little stronly maybe overstated but on edges it is VERY easy to burn through. Belive me I have seen people burn through the paint, but it's much more of a concern around edges.

Jul 20th, 2006, 01:05 PM
I was reading some back posts and thought I would put up my opinion. Yes I know on the edges I feather it. The edges are the part that blare in the sun so if you make a mistake it shows.

I think I was just bored(LOL)

the other pc
Jul 23rd, 2006, 10:39 PM
I think there’s often confusion in terminology. I’ve noticed a lot of people seem to confuse cutting all the through paint with burning paint. (Not saying that’s happened here, only that I’ve seen it before.)

I don’t know if edges are more likely to burn or not. You’ll definitely cut through paint on edges faster than on flat areas.

Truly burning paint, as in raising the temperature so high that the finish is damaged from the heat, is something that can happen.

Any time you compound a finish you’re using friction to cut through some percentage of the surface. Friction creates heat, which raises the temperature of the surface. Some of that heat will dissipate from the finish through the bodywork, into the air and into the buffing pad. If you put more and more heat into the surface and the ability of the surrounding system to dissipate it off can’t keep up the temperature will rise very high, very quickly.

How much heat you’re putting in depends on many factors, paint, buffer speed, application pressure, arm speed, pad size, pad composition, compound formula, how much compound used, etc. In the "How to remove paint defects" (http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-car-detailing-accessories/Professional-Education-Series-Video) video they show examples of buffing until the finish is literally smoking and the surface is severely damaged.

Sheet metal dissipates heat far better than plastic (bumpers) and fiberglass. A combination that makes a metal hood uncomfortably warm to touch may make the paint on a bumper discolor, crack, delaminate or tear off in patches.


Jul 26th, 2006, 07:40 AM
Yeah I get what your saying. Bad holograms are burning the paint. I HAVE done that. Not fun to fix

Aug 23rd, 2006, 10:34 AM
That's True. regarding what you say about burning trim sometimes with the rotary, I'd suggest you to mask those areas.

I had the same problem when I started Buffing, and when I started masking the trim and other plastic parts, results came down better and clean-up times were cut almost in half.

hope this tip helps :D