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Mike Phillips
Sep 27th, 2004, 07:35 AM
Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2965)

Tips & Techniques for using the G-100a (http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-car-detailing-accessories/Electric-Dual-Action-Polisher)to remove swirls and other paint defects.

Products Used
Smooth Surface™ Clay Kit (http://www.meguiars.com/?auto-detailing-clay/Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit)
G-100a (http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-car-detailing-accessories/Electric-Dual-Action-Polisher)
1 each W-7006 SOFTBUFF™ Cutting Pad (http://meguiars.com/estore/product_detailpage.cfm?product=SOFTBUFF™-Cutting-Pad&sku=W-70)(For use with the the Gold Class Bonnets)
2 each W-8006 Soft Buff® Foam Polishing Pads (http://meguiars.com/estore/product_detailpage.cfm?product=Soft-Buff<sup>®</sup>-Foam-Polishing-Pads&sku=W-80)(For use applying cleaner/polishes)
1 each W-9006 SOFTBUFF™ Finishing Pad (http://meguiars.com/estore/product_detailpage.cfm?product=SOFTBUFF™-Finishing-Pad&sku=W-90)(For use applying NXT Tech Wax)
#83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=M-83)
#80 Speed Glaze (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?parentURL=index_pro.cfm&sku=M-80)
Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax (http://meguiars.com/?liquid-car-waxes/NXT-Generation-Tech-Wax)
Supreme Shine Microfiber (http://www.meguiars.com/?car-wash-towels/Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-(Three-Pack))
X4003 Gold Class Clear Coat Safe Microfiber Bonnets 2-Pack (http://www.meguiars.com/?garage-accessories/Gold-Class-Clear-Coat-Safe-Microfiber-Bonnets)



First wash the car thoroughly. Pay special attention to loosening and removing any dirt particles from cracks and crevices to prevent these dirt particles from being introduced onto the surface during the polishing process. After washing and drying, inspect the surface both visually for below surface defects and with the palm of your clean hand for above surface defects.

If you feel any tiny little bumps still attached to the finish after washing, proceed to clay the paint to safely remove these contaminants. After claying each panel, wipe the panel down with a quick detailer to remove any residue.

Using Painters Tape, tape-off any plastic trim or components that you don't not want to get product onto and also tape-off any edges, high points or areas with known thin paint.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/3aaaaaaaaaa1.jpg

Your car may not look like the below car, but the taped-off areas should... :D It's virtually impossible to be so good with a machine to avoid the problem 100% on each car you work on so the next best thing is to be pro-active in your approach and by this we mean to tape-off any trim or other surfaces that you don't want to get residue on.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LotusTape10.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LotusTape11.jpg


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LotusTape3.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LotusTape71.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LotusTape5.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LotusTape6.jpg




Let's begin!

Scottwax1 Scottwax1 Scottwax1



Using M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish to Remove Serious Below Surface Defects such as deep swirls, scratches and etchings in the paint

This step would be for car finishes that have been neglected and/or abused. In most cases you would want to first do a Test Spot using M80 Speed Glaze and then check your results. If M80 Speed Glazes wasn't aggressive enough then you would try something more aggressive and this would be Meguiar's M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish.


Applying #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the G-100

Speed Setting - 5.0
Arm Speed - Slow Arm Speed
Pressure - 15 to 20 pounds of pressure on the head of the polisher
Work Area - Work a small area at a time, about 1 foot square
Overlapping motions - Overlap each pass by 50%, move the polisher using different patterns
Time - Work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but you haven't gone completely to a dry buff.
Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are workingThe below diagram represents swirls and scratches evenly distributed throughout your car's finish from a horizontal point of view.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2swirlsinpaint.JPG

You can see that in order to remove these below surface defects you need to remove the highest areas of the paint until they are level with the lowest depths of the deepest scratches. In essence, you must remove paint.


When using the G100 Dual Action Polisher to remove defects, (This is different then merely applying a polish or a wax because you're trying to remove paint), you need to use a slow arm speed, overlap you passes by 50% and apply between 15 pounds and 20 pounds of pressure onto the head of the polisher.

To get an idea of how hard this is to push down, simply place your polisher onto an everyday bathroom scale and then press down on the head of the polisher and take note of how hard you're pushing. If you like, you can even tape some heavy plastic around the scale as you can see that I did in the below picture and actually turn the polisher on and practice pushing down as you move the polisher around. Also listen to the sound of the motor to get an idea of how it sounds at the pressure you are applying. Make sure you have someone to hold the scale in place when you do this.

15 pounds of pressure on the head of the polisher
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/215poundsM83dacp.jpg

20 pounds of pressure on the head of the polisher
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/220poundsM83dacp.jpg

Move the polisher in different directions
You also want to go in at least two different directions, for example, from where you're standing, side to side, then front to back. You can also move the polisher in a kitty/corner fashion for complete, thorough and uniform cleaning action.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2PolisherPathOfTravel.jpg

Only work a small area at a time
This will vary according to the shape, curve or body line of the panel you are polishing but for example on a large flat panel, you want to stay around a 12" to 18" squared area. The point being, don't try to work to large of an area all at once or you won't remove the defects equally everywhere.

Overlap your sections
When you move on to a new section, overlap into the old section for a uniform end results.


If you're applying a pure polish, or a polish/wax or a pure wax, then you can polish larger areas at a time, use a faster arm speed, use less pressure and make fewer passes because when applying these types of products you're not trying to remove paint, merely do a good job of working the product in and leaving behind a thin even coating.

This does not apply when using a cleaner/wax like ColorX on neglected paint because in this situation you're again trying to remove paint.

The point of the cleaning step is to remove the defects. Because the G100's polishing action is gentle and therefore safe, it takes time to remove small particles of paint in an effort to remove a defect, so concentrate hard at doing your best work when doing the cleaning step, don't skimp out during the step and try to rush it, your results will reflect that you didn't do a good job the first time.



Using M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish to remove light or shallow below surface defects such as deep swirls, scratches and etchings in the paint

This step would be for car finishes that have are in pretty good shape except of light/shallow swirls, scratches and etchings.

In most cases you would want to first do a Test Spot using M80 Speed Glaze and then check your results. If M80 Speed Glazes wasn't aggressive enough then you would try something more aggressive and this would be Meguiar's M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish. Another option would be to apply a second application of M80 Speed Glaze and work it really well and check to see if this removed the defects instead of switching to the M83.

Applying M80 Speed Glaze is also excellent for re-polishing show cars to bring them back up to show car status. M80 Speed Glaze perfectly prepares any paint for application of your choice of wax.

Here are two cars that have been re-polished using M80 Speed Glaze to remove light swirls and scratches and prepare them for display.

The Panic Parrot
This wild Pro Street 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe is named Panic Parrot. Owner Steve Metz Creator of Muscle Machines is famous for taking his wildest imaginations and turning them into reality! With the Panic Parrot he has created yet another wild super rod in the same legacy of the Frantic Frog. And it not only looks wild, it is wild with a fuel injected 632 cubic inch Chevrolet engine.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2PanicTestSpot2crop.jpg

Sniper (http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/113_9802_snipe/)
"Sniper", a 1954 Plymouth Belvedere that was totally reworked and customized by Troy Trepanier features a Viper V-10 engine and modified drive-train from a GTS Coupe. Unveiled at the SEMA Show as part of Hot Rod Magazines 50 years of Hot Rodding Showcase, it has been the recipient of many design awards.

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/medium/2704sniperwithnxt.jpg

If you use M80 Speed Glaze to showcase your talents as a detailer and create a flawless, liquid wet-looking finish on your car... then you're in good company!




Applying #80 Speed Glaze with the G-100

Speed Setting - 4.5 to 5.0
Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
Pressure - 15 to 20 pounds of pressure on the head of the polisher
Work Area - Work a small area at a time, about 1 foot square
Time - Work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but you haven't gone completely to a dry buff.
Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working. Speed Glaze is rich in polishing oils a little bit goes a long waysWhen attempting to remove light swirls and scratches from your car's finish, use between 15 and 20 pounds of pressure to the head of the polisher. After polishing at these more aggressive pressures, you can always lighten up and make a few cover-passes at 10 to 15 pounds of pressure.

For very light polishing, you need only apply between 10 and 15 pounds of pressure to the head of the polisher.
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/215poundsM80speedGlaze.jpg

For a little more aggressive cleaning action with the M80 Speed Glaze, increase your pressure to the 18, 19 and 20 pound range.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/220poundsM80speedGlaze.jpg

If you decide to re-polish any panels with a second application of the M80 Speed Glaze, be sure to first remove any leftover residue first before applying fresh product. This will insure the remaining residue will not adulterate or dilute the fresh product for best results.

After you've cleaned and polished your car's paint with either one-step process, (M80 Speed Glaze), or a two step process, (M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish followed by M80 Speed Glaze), and have wiped off any and all residue left on the finish, you are now ready to apply your favorite wax.

Scottwax1 Scottwax1 Scottwax1

In the below outline, we list Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax; you can however use any wax you like for this step.

Applying NXT Tech Wax with the G-100

Speed Setting - 3.0 to 4.0
Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
Pressure - 5 to 10 pounds of pressure on the head of the polisher. You want to lightly engage the foam pad with the surface, not just float over it. This means using a few more pounds of pressure than just the weight of the machine resting on the surface.
Work Area - You can work a much larger area when apply a wax if you have already previously cleaned and polished the finish with a cleaning and polishing step like those outlined above. For example you can apply wax to one half of the hood and then walk to the other side of the car and apply to the other half of the hood and continue to apply your wax like this as you work around the car. Apply wax to the entire car and then stop and wait for the wax to dry until it swipes clear. (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2166)
Time - Work the product long enough to make 2 to 3 passes over each square inch of the finish then move on to a new section.
Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working. Thin coats are just as effective as thick coats plus they remove easier and use less product.5 to 6 pounds of pressure for applying a wax after a dedicated cleaning and polish step

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/25PoundsTechWax.jpg

9 to 11 pounds of pressure for applying a wax if you need a little cleaning power when you're applying the wax

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/210poundstechwax.jpg




Removing the dried wax by hand or machine

After allowing the coating of wax to dry until it swipes clear, you are now ready to remove the wax by hand using a premium quality microfiber polishing cloth or a 100% cotton terry cloth towel. If you like however, you can also use your dual action polisher to remove the wax by using a microfiber bonnet over a clean dry pad.

Removing Polish or Wax with an Ultimate Bonnet on the G-100

Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
Pressure - 15 to 20 pounds of pressure on the head of the polisher.
Work Area - You can work panel by panel, for example, remove the wax from one half of the hood and then walk to the other side of the car and remove the wax from the other half of the hood. Repeat this to the entire car until all of the wax has been removed.At this point you can call it quits or apply a second coat of wax.



Note about the pressure applied to the head of the polisher...

I've placed my hand on a scale before and often times guesstimated how hard to push down on the buffer head, but today I covered our bathroom scale with a thick plastic from a bag I cut up, taped it securely around the scale, then experimented running the polisher over the scale using the correct pad and chemical to try as best as I could to duplicate the exact thing I would do if I we're working on a real car.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2BathroomScale.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/25pounds.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/210pounds.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/215pounds.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/220pounds.jpg

I've polished out hundreds of cars using both the rotary buffer and the dual action polisher and have a pretty good feel for how much pressure to apply depending on what you want to accomplish.

To tell you the truth, I was quite surprised by the scale readings myself. I posted a range because that's truly how the dual action polisher works, it works within a range of pressure not a set number. Another factor is the condition of the paint, paint with only light swirls will only need pressure in the 15 pound range while paint with really deep swirls and harder paint will require pressure in the upper range running anywhere from 17 to 20, maybe even bumping over 20.

It was not a perfect system, but I'm confident the numbers are in the real world correct range. If you have a scale, and you have experience polishing out swirls with a dual action polisher using a foam pad like our W-8006 foam polishing pad, give it a try and compare notes.

Also when applying a wax, I found a little more than the weight of the polisher, yet enough to keep the pad flat against the finish was around the 10 pound range. For more cleaning ability, a person could apply a tad more pressure, so the range depends upon what you're trying to do.

These are all just suggestions, or course you can experiment with your car's finish and determine what works best for you.

Remember, it's not just about breaking down abrasives; it's about removing below surface defects. You remove below surface defects by removing the upper level paint that surrounds them.

Gliding the dual action polisher over a clear coat finish will not remove paint. Pushing down on the polisher, moving it slowly and the combination of time, your pad choice, chemical and oscillating action, gently and carefully abrade and remove small amounts of paint which levels the finish and thus removes the defects.

hammer55
Jun 10th, 2006, 05:20 AM
sounds easy when someone else is doing it, I have a black 2004 tbird, and it set on the dealer lot and was washed buy who knows who for about 9 months. I have a great shine on it but it has bad swirls and your detailed instructions are great on how to remove them. But never having detailed a car with a polisher, or really caring too until now, makes me cringe to do it myself, how much removing the clear coat is to much, burning the paint off is a real fear, I have thought about taking it to a detail shop, but would really like to do it myself, if I dont want to use a polisher how does one go about it and what products does one use, I am a new guy to detailing
hammer55

Mike Phillips
Jun 10th, 2006, 05:41 AM
Hi hammer55,

I noticed you're in California, the best way to pick up some tips on using the G100 and detailing cars is to attend one of our Saturday Detailing Classes or our Open Garage on Wednesday nights.

If you live too far away then another option is to practice on a junker car that nobody cares about or go to the wrecking yard and grab yourself the hood off a car.

davey g-force
Jul 16th, 2006, 08:02 PM
Whoa! What a detailed and informative thread! Nice work Mike! :xyxthumbs

Mike, I'm looking at removing very light swirls in the clear coat only - the kind you can only see under flouro lights. My paint is regualrly washed/waxed. From what I understand, you're suggesting starting with M80 for this?

Given that I've never used a polisher before and the mild nature of the swirls, I'd be more comfortable starting with a less agressive product. What do you suggest? Also, what would you suggest if I just decide to have a go at it by hand?

Mike Phillips
Jul 16th, 2006, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by davey g-force
Whoa! What a detailed and informative thread! Nice work Mike! :xyxthumbs

Mike, I'm looking at removing very light swirls in the clear coat only - the kind you can only see under fluorescent lights. My paint is regularly washed/waxed. From what I understand, you're suggesting starting with M80 for this?

Yes. We removed the rotary buffer swirls out of this Lexus finish and restored a show car finish using only M80 speed Glaze and NXT Tech Wax.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2700_ClubLexus006.jpg

I've read the comments on other detailing discussion forums by self-proclaimed detailing gurus for years now about how they use a certain paint protection product labeled with the word polish, (when it's actually a paint protectant), about how it's Optically Clear and won't change the color of the paint, but you can easily see from the picture above how we changed the color of the areas we worked on and both areas look deeper, richer in color and more beautiful.

I dare say that's what most car owners want... a deep, wet shine.

So... whatever...

Guess I'm tired of all the keyboard commandos out there in the cyber world, preaching the talk, but unable to walk the talk.


Given that I've never used a polisher before and the mild nature of the swirls, I'd be more comfortable starting with a less aggressive product. What do you suggest? Also, what would you suggest if I just decide to have a go at it by hand?

If you just want to work by hand and fill in the swirls and light scratches, then use a quality was because a quality wax will leave itself behind on the paint and this has a filling effect.

If you want to remove the swirls then look at using either ScratchX by hand or one of our cleaner/polishes by machine.

Hope this helps...

davey g-force
Jul 16th, 2006, 09:29 PM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
If you just want to work by hand and fill in the swirls and light scratches, then use a quality was because a quality wax will leave itself behind on the paint and this has a filling effect.

If you want to remove the swirls then look at using either ScratchX by hand or one of our cleaner/polishes by machine.

Hope this helps... [/B]

I use NXT wax regularly by hand and this hasn't removed the light scratches. I think I'll go with the machine. Now I've just gotta buy (or win!! ;) ) one.

What should I try that's less abrasive than #80?

Mike Phillips
Jul 16th, 2006, 10:42 PM
Originally posted by davey g-force
I use NXT wax regularly by hand and this hasn't removed the light scratches. I think I'll go with the machine. Now I've just gotta buy (or win!! ;) ) one.

What should I try that's less abrasive than #80?

Either M82 or M09

Unless your paint is really soft, chances are the right product will be at a minimum MM80 Speed Glaze.

mega
Sep 2nd, 2006, 03:53 PM
id like to download move clip about How to use the G-100 to remove swirls

where can i have it ?

i have slow intrnert connection and i cant watch any move online , so its better to download it and save it on my harddisk

Tech154
Sep 24th, 2006, 02:40 PM
I live in NY, & all the road grime as well as the 4 seasons hit my BLACK BEAUTY---2003 Impala. I've tried many things but it just doesn't come out like the pics here. I still have fine scratches & some swirls. PPPPPLEASE HELP MMMMMEEEEEEEEEEEE......!
I'll take any great advise from from anyone..........!
:eek::eek:
Thanx,:(
Tech154http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/icons/icon9.gifhttp://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/icons/icon9.gifhttp://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/icons/icon9.gifhttp://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/icons/icon9.gif

Zet
Sep 28th, 2006, 12:26 PM
I live in NY, & all the road grime as well as the 4 seasons hit my BLACK BEAUTY---2003 Impala. I've tried many things but it just doesn't come out like the pics here. I still have fine scratches & some swirls. PPPPPLEASE HELP MMMMMEEEEEEEEEEEE......!
I'll take any great advise from from anyone..........!
:eek::eek:
Thanx,:(
Tech154

You might want to start a new thread on this subject, if you post it in "Detailing 101" it won't take long before you'll recieve some help :)

Prairie360
Nov 29th, 2006, 11:24 AM
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/537/medium/Swirls_completely_removed.jpg

imacarnut
Nov 29th, 2006, 11:37 AM
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/537/medium/Swirls_completely_removed.jpg

looks great! :xyxthumbs

TripleDES
Dec 19th, 2006, 07:21 AM
Hey Mike,
Excellent article. Thanks!! I noticed you don't mention how to remove the polisher/cleaner after it's broken down.

Having taken the detailing class, I just remember you wipe the product off with a microfiber towel before it dries. (You did mention removal of wax with the G-100)

Mike Phillips
Dec 19th, 2006, 07:51 AM
Hey Mike,
Excellent article. Thanks!! I noticed you don't mention how to remove the polisher/cleaner after it's broken down.

Having taken the detailing class, I just remember you wipe the product off with a microfiber towel before it dries. (You did mention removal of wax with the G-100)

Good point.

After applying any product to clean the paint, (remove defects), use a clean microfiber by hand to remove the left over product before it dries and always remove spent, or used product before applying fresh product should you decide to re-clean and polish a section a second or third time.

gorin002
Dec 19th, 2006, 09:06 AM
Good point.

After applying any product to clean the paint, (remove defects), use a clean microfiber by hand to remove the left over product before it dries and always remove spent, or used product before applying fresh product should you decide to re-clean and polish a section a second or third time.

thank you i know what to buy at dealer

Hoffmann21
Aug 3rd, 2008, 07:15 PM
so I think im going to get all these products.

$302

wow but well worth it =]

arfax
Aug 5th, 2008, 12:23 PM
i am using #83 with a pc and i find it hard to wipe off the polish after. am i working it too long ?

Mike Phillips
Aug 5th, 2008, 12:30 PM
i am using #83 with a pc and i find it hard to wipe off the polish after. am i working it too long ?

Sounds like it, you're not supposed to buff to a dry buff

Also, have you read this?


Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20874)
(These are all similar tools)


:)

arfax
Aug 5th, 2008, 12:41 PM
im using it at speed 5 but i don't think i work it for that long, probably like a minute?
anyways this is my first time so ill get back at it.
thanks

Mike Phillips
Aug 5th, 2008, 01:52 PM
Just to note, one of the reasons we show M80 Speed Glaze at the classes is because it's a lot easier to work with than the M83 when you're first starting out.

:)