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View Full Version : The G110 vs. Wetsanding



Justin Murphy
Feb 16th, 2009, 04:26 PM
First off, I do not have the pics off of my camera yet. Camera is with my wife for the next two days.

I just wanted to let you all know that the G110 (DA) will remove wetsanding marks.

I had to wetsand some deep scratches on a black CTS today per the customer's request. He said go for it since it will go into the body shop later in the spring anyways. I wetsanded with 1500 and then 2500 grit paper. I then used a low profile 5.5 inch orange pad with the new 105 on speed 6. Man. It took a lot out. I then came back and used 205 with an older Soft Buff Megs pad on speed 5. I just worked it slow across the panel in various directions. The only bad thing is that now, there is one awesome section with no orange peel! The customer noticed this immediately.

I was just amazed at how easy this DA took the marks out. I think it was mainly the combo of the right pad size and a new awesome compound and polish. I promise to get pics up ASAP!

Carfire
Feb 16th, 2009, 04:32 PM
Thanks for the Information Justin.
Although I believe you I still am going to stick with the buffer for that task.
I am glad to hear the good news though.
One Question, Is it just a preference to go to the 2500 Grit from the 1500 Grit or is it a must have?

PorscheGuy997
Feb 16th, 2009, 04:44 PM
Yeah, I've removed 1500 grit marks with M105 and a special type of pad (Surbuf) on the DA.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/DSC_0574A.JPG


I like to use something less aggressive after using 1500 because it makes removing those scratches easier. 3000 will work, but it may need an extra pass.

Although the rotary is the preferred method for removing wet sanding marks, the DA can remove wetsanding marks.

Mike Phillips
Feb 16th, 2009, 05:14 PM
Just to note, (and we've posted this multiple times in the past), first sure in some cases you can remove sanding marks out of a clear coat finish using a DA Polisher; is it the BEST tool for the job? No.

Also, Meguiar's has been creating products for DA Polishers back to at least the 1970's in the body shop world so keep in mind we've done enough testing over all these decades to know what can and what cannot be done with a DA Polisher. Finding out that you can remove sanding marks using a DA Polisher isn't new information to us and we've be doing this close to twenty years before the public at large knew what an electric DA Polisher like the Porter Cable Unit was.

From page 2 of this thread,
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29233




they had the G100 12 years ago?




Here's some pictures of my oldest catalogs... am trying to find out if there's any older catalogs than this...

The one on the left is from 1995 and the one on the right is from 1996, the catalog from 1995 documents Meguiar's introducing the G100 at least 13 years ago and before this we were showing people in the Professional Trade how to use air powered DA Sanders to polish paint by using our W5500 Foam Polishing Pad, which if you look closely is the actual pad on the Porter Cable unit pictured below, not a W-8006 on a W64 DA Backing Plate.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/1995BrilSolCat001.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/1995BrilSolCat002.jpg


The lettering is kind of fuzzy but you can make out that it says Porter Cable

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/1995BrilSolCat004.jpg

Does anyone reading this have an older Brilliant Solutions Catalog?




The primary concern is this, anyone that's read this forum long enough has read where someone has hand applied a product to there car's paint without doing a test spot and run into problems, usually it's technique related on their part or they're using the wrong product for the job. The problem is, now the entire car is messed up where if they would have just done a little test section to start with to see if their product, process and their own skills and abilities were good enough to do the job right and get GREAT results and it didn't work as expected at least only a small section would be messed up, not the entire car.

Now if people will hand apply a product to then entire car and mess it up, do think it's a good idea for someone to sand down their entire car 'thinking' they will then remove ALL of the sanding marks using a DA Polisher?

The answer is no.

We're certainly not going to post on this forum that there is an official recommended procedure for sanding down a car, ESPECIALLY a factory baked-on, and THIN clear coat finish with the expectations you will be able to successfully and easily remove ALL the sanding marks using a DA Polisher.

Actually don't know of any polish manufacture that does in fact have an official recommendation for this. You'll see various forum members suggesting this to other forum members but when something goes wrong... who's held accountable? Who's going to buy a new paint job?

Isn't going to happen on this forum.


Most people don't realize when they read about the topic of wet-sanding, the majority of all wet-sanding is done in a body shop situation, that is FRESH PAINT which equals paint soft enough to remove sanding marks out of easily and THICKER paint, at least thicker than what the robots sprayed as a car was traveling down an assembly line because when the painter at a body shop knows ahead of time the car he's painting is going to be sanded and buffed they will spray some extra material on the car for the guy doing the sanding and buffing.

Also the people in body shops are experienced and they use rotary buffers.

Just as long as everyone reading this understands all these factors and also understands just because you read about how a person was able to remove sanding marks out of a clear coat finish using a DA Polisher, that doesn't mean everyone can do this due to,

Differences in paint hardness and softness between cars
Differences in skills, abilities and experience between people.

And of course, any time anyone is even remotely thinking about doing this to their car or their customer's car... please, please, please do a test spot first and make sure you can remove ALL of your sanding marks out of the paint with a system approach that can be duplicated over the entire car BEFORE sanding down the entire car.

And one more thing, please keep in mind that Meguiar's standards for wet-sanding is 100% sanding mark removal under extreme scrutiny under excellent lighting

This shouldn't be confused with simply making the surface shiny again and anyone that's ever sanded and buffed paint before knows the difference. It's easy to make the surface shiny again, it's not always easy to remove 100% of all the sanding marks including tracers and pigtails.

:)

Mike Phillips
Feb 16th, 2009, 05:15 PM
And just to repeat an important factor...

There's a HUGE difference in doing a spot and doing an ENTIRE car.

:D

Justin Murphy
Feb 17th, 2009, 04:12 AM
I didn't think that I had found out anything new Mike. I've heard of a lot doing this on spot sanding. Was it the fastest method? No. That doesn't mean it wasn't a correct one. It worked. Just like comparing a screw driver to a drill. One is faster but neither is incorrect. I also noted that this was a test panel since the owner is getting it resprayed. Just like compounding, each is taking this at their own risk. Many of us have already seen what unskilled people can do with Ultimate Compound. That can be just as damaging in their hands as wetsanding is in mine.

Justin Murphy
Feb 17th, 2009, 04:14 AM
And just to repeat an important factor...

There's a HUGE difference in doing a spot and doing an ENTIRE car.

:D

I've actually been practicing wetsanding for about a year now.....using the rotary and NOT the DA. The DA was just an experiment. I have 3 entire cars to do in the spring that will be repaints and restorations that are from the ground up.

Mike Phillips
Feb 17th, 2009, 08:39 AM
Just like compounding, each is taking this at their own risk.


We just like to be very careful about what's posted on topics like wet-sanding because we don't want members or lurkers thinking anyone can do this successfully especially their first time, especially on a factory finish.

Too much confusion out there in the forum world on wet-sanding in general and too many people with too high of expectations as to what can be done with a DA Polisher.

Also the idea of accountability, that is being responsible for the results of an official recommendation is something we take very seriously here on the MOL forum. This includes chiming in on any of our member's posts on this topic and making sure that everyone is aware of the risks that are involved with both sanding factory paint and the idea of removing all the sanding marks using a DA Polisher.

Again, we know it can be done, but it's not a procedure we recommend and because of the risks involved anyone thinking of doing this needs to be aware of the risks.

Also, removing the orange peel in just one spot so that it looks better than the rest of the surrounding paint might not set well with all customer's so take that into consideration and anytime you're in this position it's a good idea to explain this to your customer before sanding so you don't have to pay for a paint job to make them happy.

:)