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NVCobra
Oct 10th, 2004, 11:48 AM
Hi, i got #83 down finally... whats the best way to do #9? Work it till it dries ? How much pressure ? etc .. Which pad ? I used the orange cutting pad with the 83. Im using the Sonus pads...thx

Boss_429
Oct 10th, 2004, 12:05 PM
Hmmmm...............

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3141

NVCobra
Oct 10th, 2004, 02:59 PM
Hi Boss429, im trying to get more more info on it because one said work it in till it drys and the other said stop while still wet,just alil cornfused. thx

scrub
Oct 10th, 2004, 03:25 PM
Hi there,

From what I've learned about #9 from reading and using...

#9 does remove some fine scratches. I've found it to have more fillers, that are removed with alcohol, and the flaw or defect I was trying to fix returned. I've tried to work in #9 til dusty/dry but it seems to take forever. I think #9 is more like a polish that's removed wet.

As for pressure, I use just a bit of pressure about the same as for other polishes. Just enough pressure to hear a the motor engaged. I didn't understand until I practiced and listened for it.

Take a look at thess threads for some more info on #9

#9 vs #82 (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=694&highlight=swirl+remover)

#9 Swirl Remover, your thoughts... (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104&highlight=swirl+remover)


Hope you find this helpful. Good luck.

NVCobra
Oct 10th, 2004, 05:02 PM
Hey thx scrub...yea i agree i tried to work it dry and it took forever. I used a Sonus blue polishing pad with #9..and it still left micro swirls..then i used #83 with the more aggresive green pad and the surface look flawless. I really dont understand that unless the 9 just want strong enough..but i hear 83 leaves hazing but not with the green pad for me. Seems strange because 9 left hazeing with the blue pad while 83 with a green pad cleaned it up.

Mike Phillips
Oct 10th, 2004, 05:29 PM
Originally posted by scrub
I've found it to have more fillers, that are removed with alcohol, and the flaw or defect I was trying to fix returned.

Just to add some food for thought...

I often read of people referring to the polishing oils as fillers, and while yes they do fill, their primary purpose is to lubricate the surface to cushion, or buffer the abrading action of the diminishing abrasives. Without this rich lubricating film, the finish would looked scoured when you were through, thus defeating your original purpose of creating beauty, i.e. removing defects and polishing the surface to a high gloss.

Mike

Mike Phillips
Oct 10th, 2004, 05:33 PM
Originally posted by NVCobra
whats the best way to do #9? Work it till it dries ?

There are no products that Meguiar's recommends that you work till gone or dry. I read posts by other people that state this is the correct procedure, but that is just their opinion, not Meguiar's recommendation.

Anytime you work a product till it's gone, or dry, you begin to increase friction, because there is no longer anything left on the surface to lubricate surface), and increase the potential for hazing, micro-marring, or swirling.

Mike

scrub
Oct 10th, 2004, 06:18 PM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Just to add some food for thought...

I often read of people referring to the polishing oils as fillers, and while yes they do fill, their primary purpose is to lubricate the surface to cushion, or buffer the abrading action of the diminishing abrasives. Without this rich lubricating film, the finish would looked scoured when you were through, thus defeating your original purpose of creating beauty, i.e. removing defects and polishing the surface to a high gloss.

Mike

Mike thanks for the clarification... Not to stray off topic but take for example a pure polish or NXT tech wax. Both offer the user the ability to remove/fill in minor scratches according to the main site's FAQs.

"Meguiar's Trade Secret Polishing Oils
The trade secret oils Meguiar's uses in both types of polishes are unique to the industry and to this day have never been surpassed for creating deep, dark reflections and brilliant high gloss by any of our competitors in over 100 years.

The oils Meguiar's uses are also important in maintaining the original condition of the paint by filling in the naturally occurring microscopic pores and surface imperfections thus preventing detrimental substances and elements as simple as water, or worse, acid-rain, from entering into these pores and microscopic surface imperfections thus causing oxidation and chemical etching. These oils act to replace the original resins as they wear away through natural processes." Taken from Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2409)

That's what I was stating about the #9 having fillers. I understand its a buffer of the abrasives, but when I use alcohol and water on #83 or even #80 the flaw I was trying to repair is still gone. Meaing I removed the fillers and saw what was left behind after the polish was removed. I've found with #9 the flaw is still there but not as bad as before. I'm sure multiple applications would have fixed the defect. At that time I was experimenting to see what the products could do for this specific defect.

Not to be argumentative with you Mike! This is your detailing world and we're just spinning on it!!

As for the topic... I have yet to use the Sonex pads therefore I can't speak to that product. Now to the #9 being stronger than #83, #83 rates a 6 and #9 rates a 3 on the abrasive scale. The problem of a less aggressive product leaving marring whereas a more aggressive product doesn't leave the marring might be a function of the application and removal method employed. As we both stated #9 can probably be worked in all day...(you know what I mean) I guess its finding that sweet spot for removal. Then with #83 we've been trained to work this product in anywhere from 4-6 minutes. So we are probably using this product correctly. So we'll have to find the best application and removal method to fix the problem.

These are just my opinions as I'm not a pro detailer nor do I work for Meguiar's. I'm just your average weekend user of these great products.

I hope that I'm still helping you here.

Mike Phillips
Oct 11th, 2004, 09:51 AM
Hi Scrub,

Everything you posted looks good, I was just trying to clarify that these oils provide multiple benefits, more than just filling, that's all... Your posts are always helpful and appreciated...

:xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs

Mike

scrub
Oct 11th, 2004, 03:09 PM
No offense taken and no offense meant to be given. It's difficult to read people's feelings in words and I wanted to agree with you first and show no hard feelings second.

Thanks for all your hard work. I've learned alot.

The topic of fillers is very important to me. As a new detailer I'd hate to sell a service and the client comes back a few weeks later with the same flaws I supposedly fixed. After tons of replies to topics hear I now know what to look for to make sure the work is done right.

travisdecpn
Oct 11th, 2004, 03:35 PM
I just detailed my toyota, i used 83, 9, VM, NXTx2, S100. I think #9 was a great follow up to #83, it went on smooth and wiped off easily. I found that the product never really dries out completely and that makes it easy to remove. I was more than happy with the results.

Tim Lingor
Oct 11th, 2004, 04:50 PM
Hey,

As I said in another post, you should remove the #9 Swirl Remover while still damp. The reason is two fold. You never want to dry buff as this may create marring back into the surface. Secondly, buffing it until dry often causes the #9 to gum up in places where it was applied too thick. As a result, you must apply more pressure to wipe off the residue. More pressure means a greater chance of you instilling marks back into the paint.

Cheers! :)
Tim