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Mike Phillips
Nov 8th, 2004, 01:09 PM
How to clean Meguiar's foam buffing pads (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3598)

Meguiar's does not recommend washing any of our foam buffing pads either by hand or by machine.

Meguiar's recommends,

* Tapping them when they are dry to knock loose any dried product
* Holding an absorbent terry cloth towel into them when they are wet to absorb excess product out of them.
* Storing them wet in a zip-lock bag for re-use later
* Turning the polisher on while holding the foam pad against an absorbent cotton terry cloth towel to transfer excess product into the towel
* Brushing dried, excess product from the face of the pad using a nylon bristle brush, like a toothbrush for example.
More to come...

Mike

Jeff Smith
Sep 18th, 2005, 09:19 PM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
How to clean Meguiar's foam buffing pads

Meguiar's does not recommend washing any of our foam buffing pads either by hand or by machine.

Meguiar's recommends,
* Tapping them when they are dry to knock loose any dried product
* Holding an absorbent terry cloth towel into them when they are wet to absorb excess product out of them.
* Storing them wet in a zip-lock bag for re-use later
* Turning the polisher on while holding the foam pad against an absorbent cotton terry cloth towel to transfer excess product into the towel
* Brushing dried, excess product from the face of the pad using a nylon bristle brush, like a toothbrush for example.

More to come...

Mike

Mike,
I just got finished storing the pads I used this weekend and wanted to review the recommended cleaning instructions.

When you say, store them wet in a ziplock bag, Should this bag then be closed up or left open? I would think mold/mildew might be an consideration here. I have left mine open until I hear further.

Blr123
Sep 19th, 2005, 12:21 AM
Morning everyone,

I would like to know aswell :xyxthumbs

Bryan

Mike Phillips
Sep 19th, 2005, 03:08 AM
Originally posted by j333_76484
Mike,
I just got finished storing the pads I used this weekend and wanted to review the recommended cleaning instructions.

When you say, store them wet in a zip-lock bag, Should this bag then be closed up or left open? I would think mold/mildew might be an consideration here. I have left mine open until I hear further.

When I compiled the list your cite, I basically tried to think of every way I've ever heard of that people clean and store their foam pads that wouldn't do more harm than good. As far as the bag goes, I think some people have done both, (Store their foam pads wet in a closed bag and an open bag), but I think the idea is to leave them in an open bag where they can dry out but they are covered and thus not exposed to dirt and other contaminants in the air around them.

At Meguiar's we store our used foam pads on cupboards on shelves where they can dry and with the door closed they are not exposed to airborne dirt and other contaminants.

Cleaning foam pads used with dual action polishers is a problem. It's not just a problem for Meguiar's, it's a problem with any foam pad used on a dual action polisher. The reason for this is because when you place some product onto the face of the foam pad, and then place the face of the foam pad onto the surface of your car's finish, and then turn the polisher on, a majority of the product you just placed onto the face of the foam pad was just pushed into the foam pad.

Sure as you use the machine and move it around product is released over the finish, but as you continue to repeat the above steps you will continue to saturate your pad as you move around the car, then comes the question...

"How do you clean the foam pad?"


Since Meguiar's doesn't recommend washing the foam pad getting the product out of the inside of the pad is difficult and to date the best method is to draw it out using pressure with some type of absorbent material to force the excess liquids into the absorbent material.

Blr123
Sep 19th, 2005, 03:22 AM
Hello all,

Presumably that's why you would suggest "dedicated" pads ie 1 pad for 1 product yes?

Bryan

RDVT4ME
Sep 19th, 2005, 04:36 AM
Mike

What negatives have you or others seen from washing foam buffing pads. I know some have experienced separation of the foam from the felt. Any other issues?

Mike Phillips
Sep 19th, 2005, 04:41 AM
Originally posted by Blr123
Hello all,

Presumably that's why you would suggest "dedicated" pads ie 1 pad for 1 product yes?

Bryan


Yes, this prevents cross-contamination.

Mike Phillips
Sep 19th, 2005, 04:55 AM
Originally posted by RDVT4ME
Mike

What negatives have you or others seen from washing foam buffing pads. I know some have experienced separation of the foam from the felt. Any other issues?


The only issue I've ever seen caused by hand washing is de-lamination of the Velcro material from the foam, they tend not to stay their original color after washing, but the foam seems to work just the same.

We upgraded the adhesive used to hold the Velcro material onto the foam a couple of years ago so every pad being shipped today should have this new adhesive formula that is for sure water resistant and much more resistant to chemicals, heat and the wear and tear associated with the oscillating action of the dual action polisher on the 5.0 setting.

I have collected up three large boxes of foam pads used during our Detailing classes on Saturday's to experiment with washing using different soaps, the problem like usual is carving out the time as with forum growth it's really all I can do to keep up with the current duties and behind the scenes work, so adding new projects is difficult.

I know one thing for sure however, washing compounds, paint cleaners, cleaner/polishes and pure polishes will wash out with soap and water fairly easily, however when it comes to removing wax, especially the NXT and the M21 Synthetic Sealant, it's always going to be very tough to remove these products as they are water and detergent resistant.

In fact if you've ever tried to rinse out a foam wax applicator after using either of these two product you will have noticed how difficult it is to get all of the wax out of the pad and when it does come out it's not breaking up in the water, just coming out as a slimy ooze.

Jason Rose
Sep 19th, 2005, 05:45 AM
I have some helpful input on this topic...

First, one of the reasons washing foam pads with detergents is not a good idea is due to the fact that some cleaning chemicals can change what is called "compression strengh." In simple terms, this means the bounce-back or resistance of the foam to compression. After washing, with altered compression strengh, the foam pad may not perform as it should.

Second, the best pad maintenance program is this...
- Use dedicated pads for each product
- Don't use too much product. Common mistake. We all use way too much product. A build up on a pad is counter-productive, and simply more to clean off later.
- To clean after use, place the pad face down on a microfiber towel. Roll up the towel really tight, kind of like your wringing out a chamois. The compression will squeeze out excess product and the microfiber towel will soak it out. (wash the mf towel)
- Place the foam pad in a clean dry cabinet or box FACE DOWN. Air tight is not neccassary, but free from airborn particulate is important. Plastic bags are good for the mobile detailer folks...not sealed. Need to allow any chemicals to out-gas off the pad. But again, in a box with a lid. Not an open crate.

Hope this information helps...

Jason "Waxman" Rose
Field Marketing Manager: Professional
Meguiar's, Inc.

gb387
Sep 19th, 2005, 11:38 AM
Originally posted by RDVT4ME
Mike

What negatives have you or others seen from washing foam buffing pads. I know some have experienced separation of the foam from the felt. Any other issues?

I have washed my pads many, many times with no problems that I can visually see.... I did have my oldest (3-4 years) pad separate from the Velcro but of the 6-7 I have that is the only failure.

As Jason Rose has posted it could be changing the pads "compression strength"... that I have no way of testing that but it is entirely possible.

Once I see a problem with a pad I will replace it. I just can't afford to have one pad for each product.... I do too much "experimenting" with Meguiars products.

How about this Meguiars.... one free 6.5" Polishing pad OR Finishing pad with the purchase of a pro line product. ;) ;)

Jason Rose
Sep 19th, 2005, 11:50 AM
Of course, having one pad for each product could get expensive for some, especially users that use 6.5inch AND 8inch pad systems.

The next best thing is to keep pad usage aligned with major product categories. For example, if you use a W8000 Polishing pad with a polish...dedicate that pad to the polish category, and not use it with a wax or paint cleaner/compound. Use that W8000 pad with a variety of polishes.

Paint cleaners/compounds...polishes...and waxes...all have different chemistry. Best to segregate pads used with each of these product categories.

Waxman

Mike Phillips
Sep 19th, 2005, 11:52 AM
Jason,

Not to go off-topic too far... how do you like your new Avatar?

Jason Rose
Sep 19th, 2005, 11:56 AM
To really thoroughly consider this Avatar...you need to send me the actual can for closer evaluation.
Waxman

Mike Phillips
Sep 19th, 2005, 11:58 AM
Originally posted by Jason Rose
To really thoroughly consider this Avatar...you need to send me the actual can for closer evaluation.
Waxman


What can of wax?

rusty bumper
Sep 19th, 2005, 01:01 PM
Not sure if this is even an issue, but I wonder if it's possible for the felt to shrink up just a little after a pad's been washed & air dried.

If so, then that might have been part of the cause of certain pad/velcro failures in the past?.......Not to mention that it could cause a pad to look a little bowl shaped too.

Just thinking out loud. :)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Edit: I did have a pad to mold up on me one time. I washed it, then let it air dry (or so I thought it was dry), and then I stored it in a sealed bag.

The next time I went to use it, it was so moldy that my pad was destroyed.

It was one of those screw-on type pads.

gb387
Sep 19th, 2005, 02:28 PM
Originally posted by Jason Rose
Of course, having one pad for each product could get expensive for some, especially users that use 6.5inch AND 8inch pad systems.

The next best thing is to keep pad usage aligned with major product categories. For example, if you use a W8000 Polishing pad with a polish...dedicate that pad to the polish category, and not use it with a wax or paint cleaner/compound. Use that W8000 pad with a variety of polishes.

Paint cleaners/compounds...polishes...and waxes...all have different chemistry. Best to segregate pads used with each of these product categories.

Waxman

That is one thing that I keep track of all mine are numbered... #1 is my cleaner pad... #2 is my polish pad... and so on.

Blr123
Sep 19th, 2005, 08:45 PM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Jason,

Not to go off-topic too far... how do you like your new Avatar?

Hey Mike..............tut tut tut...............going off topic..............tut tut :rolleyes:

Now back on topic..............I understood that we should store pads in zip lock bags, is it OK to store in a box which I have that has a lid which could (not absolutely sure) well be airtight yeah?

Bryan

amg/md
Sep 21st, 2005, 08:20 AM
Does the same go for the High Tech applicator pads?

I am keeping them in a plastic bag with the bottle of the product I use it for (cleaner, polish, or wax, etc.), along with whatever I use to wipe it off with.

Can I wash these small hand pads out in the sink?

Ric

Mike Phillips
Sep 21st, 2005, 08:22 AM
Originally posted by amg/md
Can I wash these small hand pads out in the sink?

Ric

Yes.

You can also throw these in the washing machine. Best results come from washing in the sink first, and then run them through a load in the washing machine.

amg/md
Sep 21st, 2005, 06:10 PM
Mike,

As always, thanks for the quick response.

Ric

inthedetails
Nov 3rd, 2005, 07:26 PM
I have had great success cleaning my pads with Dawn and hot water. Even my NXT pad, although it does take a bit more effort.

Pit-lane.dk
Nov 4th, 2005, 12:20 AM
Machine washing pads works well for me although Velcro lifting from foam, does occur occasionally, especially with LC pads and not that often with Meguiars pads…….

Just my experiences…..

Pit-lane.dk

PS How many times (hours) in average can a pad be used if it is not washed once in a while?

What’s that avatar thing, you’re talking about, earlier in this thread?

Jeff Smith
Nov 4th, 2005, 03:43 PM
Originally posted by inthedetails
I have had great success cleaning my pads with Dawn and hot water. Even my NXT pad, although it does take a bit more effort.

I have some of white, stackable plastic lawn chairs. I lay a pad, face up on the edge of the seat. I hit it full force with the garden hose. I found all the polishes and glazes seem to be water soluable. I can get the pads extremely clean this way. I tend to hit it in the middle first then slowly spin it with one hand while making an ever increasing circle toward the outer rim of the pad. Then I hit the flip the pad, Hit the outer rim again then hit the outside side of the pad. This has been going very well for me. I used the dawn before. Had one pads velcro basically fall off so I changed. Maybe I used to much Dawn as I usually suspect I do.

I do spin the pads on the rotary before laying out to dry. I have 4 of the grit guard inserts and find them to be great drying racks for pads.

For my wax pads I don't clean. I have a separate pad for every wax and play around with so many that none of them are in serious need of help yet. All are still in great shape.

For the polish and glaze pads, I seem to be having such luck with my method that I non longer keep a separate pad for each product. I simply hose them down after each use, dry then store.

This is working well for me "at this time". The long term results have yet to be seen.

BTW, refrain from drying with the PC set on 6. Weeee. Had to go fetch a pad out of my neighbors hedge. Then after getting it realized the vecro had tore away from the pad. Trashed my first pad this way.

Also been figuring out just how far the rotary can sling wax. I use it to get the bulk of my wax off by running it on high. My hedges have quite the colorful array of stripes on them. Plus my driveway has a few that have been there for a few months. People probably think I am ome sort of artist here or something.

inthedetails
Nov 5th, 2005, 01:45 AM
Originally posted by Jeff Smith
I do spin the pads on the rotary before laying out to dry. I have 4 of the grit guard inserts and find them to be great drying racks for pads.

BTW, refrain from drying with the PC set on 6. Weeee. Had to go fetch a pad out of my neighbors hedge. Then after getting it realized the vecro had tore away from the pad. Trashed my first pad this way.




It happened to me twice yesterday, I used 6 becuase I had cleaned the pad in the middle of a car (gummy), I was "too lazy" to grab a bucket, so the thing shot across the garage. We could probably develop some kind of sporting event.

Another key in my cleaning is HOT! water.

rgarza
Mar 25th, 2007, 12:37 PM
Hello all experts :), What's your opinion about products like this:

http://i12.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/59/eb/84_1.JPG

I recently bought some of this but i haven't received yet. I will test and share my opinions, but your comments are very important to me.

Greetings from this side or the river, jeje, Mexico.

Regards...

DogParkGuy
Mar 27th, 2007, 04:34 AM
I saw a mechanical pad cleaner advertised on the ADS website. Cost around $130 and removed dried wax and polisher from pads.

gauchoy2k
Dec 16th, 2007, 07:00 PM
Thats alot of money to clean a 15dollar pad.

navyblue2000
Apr 8th, 2008, 06:29 AM
I tried something last night that seemed to work. Put a little dish soap in hot water in a bowl, and set a pad that had been used, and rinsed as best as I could into that bowl overnight. Looked at it this morning and it appears all it needs to do is dry and it's good to go!

andyo
Apr 12th, 2008, 09:19 AM
i spray them with a garden hose to get product out and let them air dry.

Mless5
May 2nd, 2008, 08:42 AM
Hi, thought I'd share. I like removing as much as I can with a MF towel trick and hitting pad with compressed air to force dry polish out once the pad dries.

Joenok
May 3rd, 2008, 01:45 PM
So. Those of you who do clean your pads, HOW OFTEN do you do so?
How long do they take to dry?
Just did hood of a car and dropped a pad on the garage floor...

I ordered the DP cleaner above, but Autogeek sent me the wrong product, Pinnacle something... I guess i`ll try that..?

Joenok
May 4th, 2008, 03:50 PM
Eh, Bump?

Don
May 5th, 2008, 03:18 AM
So. Those of you who do clean your pads, HOW OFTEN do you do so?
How long do they take to dry?
Just did hood of a car and dropped a pad on the garage floor...

I ordered the DP cleaner above, but Autogeek sent me the wrong product, Pinnacle something... I guess i`ll try that..?


I have been using Murphy's Oil Soap to clean all of my detailing-related cloths, pads, etc. It really seems to cut through all of the cleaners and polishes easily and rinses out completely using the garden hose...unlike products like DAWN, which seem to suds up forever. I just soak the pads with a Murphy's/water mix 3-4:1, manually aggitate the pads, then rinse them with a strong stream of water.

Mike's right in that NXT (especially the NXT 2.0), is more than a bit stubborn when it comes to cleaning it's appicator, whether it's a PC/G-100 pad or one of the little round hand-applicator pads - usually requiring more than one cleaning application, and sometimes even then, only the main bulk of the product is cleaned out. The only other products that show this much difficulty in removing from foam pads are the ones from Collinite

Joenok
May 5th, 2008, 02:43 PM
How many cars do you do before you wash the pads, Don?

I used the Pinnacle product mentioned above just now to clean some really dirty mfs, seemed to work just fine!
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin620.html
Says here that it can be used with pads, guess I´ll give it a go.
Espesially for the pads I´ve used with #83, the remains in the foam of the pad turns hard after a few hours. Guess I should have dried them better :/

Don
May 5th, 2008, 05:22 PM
How many cars do you do before you wash the pads, Don?

I used the Pinnacle product mentioned above just now to clean some really dirty mfs, seemed to work just fine!
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin620.html
Says here that it can be used with pads, guess I´ll give it a go.
Espesially for the pads I´ve used with #83, the remains in the foam of the pad turns hard after a few hours. Guess I should have dried them better :/


I clean them after each use. Oftentimes, I'll take the pad off the buffer and spray it with cleaner, then let it soak until I'm finished with the whole car and it's clean-up time.

agentm
Jun 6th, 2008, 05:56 PM
Everytime I use my yellow pad with compound it always build up after use. I can't understand the MF towel method. When its dried the pad is so hard and the only way I took the product off is water. Can someone explain? thanks

Mike Phillips
Jun 6th, 2008, 08:31 PM
Every time I use my yellow pad with compound it always build up after use. I can't understand the MF towel method. When its dried the pad is so hard and the only way I took the product off is water. Can someone explain? thanks

What compound?

How are you using the pad? Which pad ours? The big one or the little one?

What kind of machine?

Have you read this?

Cleaning Your Pad On The Fly (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21413)

The pictures are missing until our Webmaster is feeling better and back to work but the words are still there and not it recommends using terry cloth not microfiber.

:)

agentm
Jun 7th, 2008, 03:30 PM
I have use m83, m80 and few more other brand. I use a medium pressure. Sometimes I use my Flex and sometime I use my rotory. By the time I finished half of the car the pad is already have nugget of compound on it with a hard dried looking pad. I started out with 2 lines of product.

theamcguy
Jun 8th, 2008, 06:23 AM
I stopped washing my pads in water years ago. I noticed two things:

1st Washing caused the Velcro to separate from the pad

2nd After washing the pad never stuck to the backing plate as well as a pad that had
not been washed

Before putting the away I hold a towel against while spinning to remove the excess product. I let it dry then repeat with the towel. I use a separate pad per product. Works for me no more separation and the pads stick like new every time.

agentm
Jun 8th, 2008, 06:18 PM
I like to know how many times do you wash the pad before it won't stick. I've been washing my pad over and over about 10 times and it still stick to my backing plate.

cheffi
Jul 23rd, 2008, 12:09 AM
Everytime I use my yellow pad with compound it always build up after use. I can't understand the MF towel method. When its dried the pad is so hard and the only way I took the product off is water. Can someone explain? thanks

this on the fly method only works with not dried product. you should do this right after compounding when the pad is "wet"

Jokeman
Jul 23rd, 2008, 07:10 AM
I usually hit the pad with the airgun from my compressor. It blows most of the product right out.

kty10
Jul 23rd, 2008, 10:49 AM
There was either a Saturday class or Thursday open garage where there was a pad washer that was used. If I remember correctly, there was supposed to be a review, but I never saw one? Anyone have any experience with these?

cheffi
Jul 24th, 2008, 03:20 AM
There was either a Saturday class or Thursday open garage where there was a pad washer that was used. If I remember correctly, there was supposed to be a review, but I never saw one? Anyone have any experience with these?

take a look here:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=76952&highlight=padwasher

they have a really nice video there which shows all necessary steps

Norm Starnes
Aug 2nd, 2008, 09:36 PM
Mike, I have just purchased a 1990 Bently with some significant spyder cracks in the clear coat....what product if any do you have the cover/fill/ repair...if any....or does the car need to be re clear coated ?....thank you.

angeloabbattista
Aug 3rd, 2008, 06:21 AM
Firstly let me :welcome you to MOL
I think you may have posted in the wrong area, try posting your question in Delailing 101 (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=22)
And have fun!

Cosmin
Mar 27th, 2009, 04:46 PM
i wash my pads with 50/50 alchool and water , and ooks like cleans them well , after that i try to keep them on an absorbant material to take out all the wet excess from inside.
i am a rookie so... if anyone use alchool with water in cleaning process a feedback will be welcome. also i use same pad with same paste , dedicated.Scottwax2

JohanD
Nov 9th, 2009, 09:49 AM
Do the soft buff 2.0 require different washing techniques than previously explained? Are they machine washable? Not that it is a big deal. I will probably try the garden hose method.

rusty bumper
Nov 9th, 2009, 01:24 PM
i wash my pads with 50/50 alchool and water , and ooks like cleans them well , after that i try to keep them on an absorbant material to take out all the wet excess from inside.
i am a rookie so... if anyone use alchool with water in cleaning process a feedback will be welcome. also i use same pad with same paste , dedicated.Scottwax2

Alcohol?

Is that rough on the pads?

rusty bumper
Nov 9th, 2009, 01:26 PM
Do the soft buff 2.0 require different washing techniques than previously explained? Are they machine washable? Not that it is a big deal. I will probably try the garden hose method.
I'm not familiar with the 2.0 pads yet, but I see no reason why they can't be machine washed.

However, I think I'd rather do them by hand myself.

tcope1
Nov 9th, 2009, 01:30 PM
Do the soft buff 2.0 require different washing techniques than previously explained? Are they machine washable? Not that it is a big deal. I will probably try the garden hose method.Yes, all Megs pads being made now can be washed in the washing machine.

Personally I use the sink for a few pads and a bucket for more then a few. The wax from the pads is probably going to coat the sides of the washing machine. It should not bother cloths that much but I'd rather just not have it in the washing machine to start with.

Grime Busters
Nov 9th, 2009, 02:18 PM
take a look here:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=76952&highlight=padwasher

they have a really nice video there which shows all necessary steps


So has anyone has any feedback to share about the Universal Pad Washer ?

tcope1
Nov 10th, 2009, 07:33 AM
Correction to my prior post... not all Megs pads are machine washable. Megs only states this for the new Buff 2.0 pads.

Thanks Mister B for correcting this.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38638

wingspar
Nov 15th, 2009, 11:05 AM
I didn’t read this whole thread, just the first page, and the last two pages, and I’m new here today. I’m guessing this thread is about the foam pads used on powered polishers rather than by hand?

Where do the 4-inch Foam Applicator Pads (meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+X3070) come into this? The description doesn’t say anything about using them with wax, yet my generic waxes I’ve always use come with foam applicator pads like these. I will be doing all applications by hand.

rusty bumper
Nov 15th, 2009, 02:00 PM
I didn’t read this whole thread, just the first page, and the last two pages, and I’m new here today. I’m guessing this thread is about the foam pads used on powered polishers rather than by hand?

Where do the 4-inch Foam Applicator Pads (meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+X3070) come into this? The description doesn’t say anything about using them with wax, yet my generic waxes I’ve always use come with foam applicator pads like these. I will be doing all applications by hand.

Hi wingspar, and welcome to the forum. :wavey

Correct, this thread concerns machine buffing pads, but hand applicator pads such as the X3070 (Hi-Tech pads) can be machine, or hand washed.

Hi-Tech pads are my pads of choice when applying waxes & sealers by hand.

wingspar
Nov 15th, 2009, 02:48 PM
Hi wingspar, and welcome to the forum. :wavey

Correct, this thread concerns machine buffing pads, but hand applicator pads such as the X3070 (Hi-Tech pads) can be machine, or hand washed.

Hi-Tech pads are my pads of choice when applying waxes & sealers by hand.

Ok. Thanks for the welcome and reply. No where in the description of the 4-inch Foam Applicator Pads does it talk about them being for applying wax, nor does it call them (Hi-Tech pads). You can imagine how confusing that can be to a newbie who has never done any real car detailing, and has limited knowledge of waxes and tools for applying. If it wasn’t for the fact that those foam applicator pads came with the generic wax I’ve been using, I’d still be wondering what to apply the wax with. I’ll keep them on my order list.

The other wax says to dampen the applicator before applying wax, and rinse after use. Would I still dampen the applicator with the Meguiar’s pads before use? Seems like the answer is no, but nothing definitive that I can find.

wingspar
Nov 15th, 2009, 04:02 PM
Well, I can’t edit my last post, so I guess I have to make another. I got all my questions on these pads answered in another thread, so no need to try and straighten me out in this thread. :D

rusty bumper
Nov 15th, 2009, 04:31 PM
Ok. Thanks for the welcome and reply. No where in the description of the 4-inch Foam Applicator Pads does it talk about them being for applying wax, nor does it call them (Hi-Tech pads). You can imagine how confusing that can be to a newbie who has never done any real car detailing, and has limited knowledge of waxes and tools for applying. If it wasn’t for the fact that those foam applicator pads came with the generic wax I’ve been using, I’d still be wondering what to apply the wax with. I’ll keep them on my order list.

The other wax says to dampen the applicator before applying wax, and rinse after use. Would I still dampen the applicator with the Meguiar’s pads before use? Seems like the answer is no, but nothing definitive that I can find.

The package does mention something about applying "protectants" with the pads, but I agree that the wording is somewhat vague concerning the use of these pads on paint.

As for the Hi-Tech part, these pads have used that terminology for years. Here's a link to a package with the old wording...

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-HiTech-Applicator-Pad/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Not sure why Meguiars dropped the "Hi-Tech" name on the newer packaging.

Concerning your last statement, I sometimes prime (dampen) these pads with the product I'm using (waxes, sealants, cleaners, polishes, etc.) before applying them to the finish. It's a helpful step to keep the pad from drying out.

Edit: At one time Meguiars sold Hi-Tech pads in a 32 pack bundle.

wingspar
Nov 15th, 2009, 05:15 PM
Well, the other product said to dampen the foam pads with water before using. I was using a paste. I’m considering using a liquid with Meguiar’s, so maybe just dampening with the product is all it needs. Rinsing with plain water, and letting them dry before putting them away has always worked in the past. Still trying to figure out what to order. Not sure how far I want to go, but I think I’d like to take it a step further than just waxing. Considering NXT and Carnauba wax, but are both necessary?

rusty bumper
Nov 16th, 2009, 05:12 PM
Rinsing with plain water, and letting them dry before putting them away has always worked in the past.

I recommend a good hand washing in strong soap for Hi-Tech pads. The reason I suggest strong soap is because wax residue tends to be difficult to remove with mild soaps.

I always use a clean hand applicator if possible.



Still trying to figure out what to order. Not sure how far I want to go, but I think I’d like to take it a step further than just waxing.

I agree. Just a plain wax job is not going to remove bonded dirt & contaminates. Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G1016) will do wonders removing above surface contamination, while a product such as ColorX (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G11816) can help clean below surface defects.

There are much stronger cleaners available, but ColorX is a good next step for beginners


Considering NXT and Carnauba wax, but are both necessary?

No. Either type is a good choice, but NXT is going to give you the best, longest lasting protection. However, if you're a person that likes to wax often, then most any of Meguiar's waxes will fit the bill.

For what it's worth, my recommended paint cleaner (ColorX) is actually a wax in itself. ColorX topped with NXT will give you great results.

wingspar
Nov 17th, 2009, 11:00 AM
I recommend a good hand washing in strong soap for Hi-Tech pads. The reason I suggest strong soap is because wax residue tends to be difficult to remove with mild soaps.

I always use a clean hand applicator if possible.

I agree. Just a plain wax job is not going to remove bonded dirt & contaminates. Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G1016) will do wonders removing above surface contamination, while a product such as ColorX (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G11816) can help clean below surface defects.

There are much stronger cleaners available, but ColorX is a good next step for beginners

No. Either type is a good choice, but NXT is going to give you the best, longest lasting protection. However, if you're a person that likes to wax often, then most any of Meguiar's waxes will fit the bill.

For what it's worth, my recommended paint cleaner (ColorX) is actually a wax in itself. ColorX topped with NXT will give you great results.

Thanks for the info on ColorX. Hadn’t looked at that. Is that a polish, a wax or? It says to apply with an Even-Coat Applicator for best results. Any reason a foam applicator wouldn’t work? I will have to say that Meguiar’s product descriptions on their web site seem to raise more questions, and give almost no info on the product and it’s uses. If it wasn’t for this forum, I’d probably go with another product that makes the descriptions and uses of their products crystal clear.

I am seriously considering clay bars. For now, my order looks like Clay bars, ColorX, NXT, (Past or liquid?) And some foam applicators and micro fiber towels. Would be all I need?

What’s the difference between a polish and a cleaner?

rusty bumper
Nov 18th, 2009, 05:13 PM
Thanks for the info on ColorX. Hadn’t looked at that. Is that a polish, a wax or? It says to apply with an Even-Coat Applicator for best results. Any reason a foam applicator wouldn’t work?
ColorX is a cleaner, polish, and wax combination.

A foam applicator would be a good choice here, but the Even Coat applicator is recommended to give ColorX more bite.

Here is a good thread (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88&highlight=bronco) to follow-up on for more about the product...plus it also covers the clay bar technique too.



I am seriously considering clay bars. For now, my order looks like Clay bars, ColorX, NXT, (Past or liquid?) And some foam applicators and micro fiber towels. Would be all I need?

Paste or liquid waxes is a matter of personal preference. Most people prefer a liquid form of wax for ease of use. Maybe someone else can chime in on the paste version, as I have never used it yet. I have tried #16 paste wax, and love it, but I'm not sure if NXT paste spreads with the same ease.

Sounds like you have most of it covered, but read up on Mike's makeover thread and check out his selection of car shampoo (Gold Class), and the type of wash mitt he uses. Proper washing tools & techniques can make or break a fine finish.


What’s the difference between a polish and a cleaner?

Meguiars makes many forms of paint cleaners, and they all have a certain amount of polish in them. Polishes (or pure polishes), on the other hand, have little or no cleaners in them (such as #7 (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+SHOW+16) and #81 (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+M8132)).

What makes Meguiar's polishes, and cleaner / polishes, so unique is the use of trade secret oils. These oils can revitalize neglected paint much like putting a fine lotion on dry skin. The good part I like about these oils is they continue to work days after being applied and continue to penetrate the paint and give new life to it. ColorX is blessed with these polishing oils.

Sorry about my late my response.

wingspar
Nov 19th, 2009, 07:05 PM
Thanks for the info. Currently, my list looks like this. May have to wait till the first of the month before ordering.

Clay Kit
Color X
NXT 2.0
Foam Pads
Microfiber Towels
Possibly a wash mitt. Always used sponges, and not sure I’ll benefit from a mitt.

Calais
Nov 19th, 2009, 09:00 PM
Thanks for the info. Currently, my list looks like this. May have to wait till the first of the month before ordering.

Clay Kit
Color X
NXT 2.0
Foam Pads
Microfiber Towels
Possibly a wash mitt. Always used sponges, and not sure I’ll benefit from a mitt.

Clay is a must have.
ColorX is a great AIO, especially effective on oxidation.
NXT 2.0 is a solid and extremely user-friendly LSP.
Also, a must.
I would get both Supreme Shine and Ultimate Wipe MF's.
If you are using the right kind of sponge then you are fine, if not definitely opt for a wash mitt. I tend to prefer a sponge to wash mitt because it easier to see, identify and rinse off particulate off the media. I use Meguiar's discontinued Gold Class wash sponges. :xyxthumbs Lowes sells grout sponges for ~$3 that are also another good option.

Basically, your list looks great. You may want to look into a paint cleaner like SwirlX, definitely get a good soap (Gold Class for me) and maybe a couple Water Magnet drying MF's.

wingspar
Nov 21st, 2009, 10:42 AM
In another forum where I posted a question about wax, I had mentioned I was looking at Meguair’s clay bars, and one person posted that the bars were so soft, he spent more time picking the clay off the car than cleaning. Maybe he wasn’t using enough Quick detailer or no lube at all?

I have to wait till the first of the month before I can place the order, but good days around here for waxing this time of year are rare indeed.

Aussie Glossy
Nov 22nd, 2009, 03:50 PM
The only issue I've ever seen caused by hand washing is de-lamination of the Velcro material from the foam, they tend not to stay their original color after washing, but the foam seems to work just the same.

We upgraded the adhesive used to hold the Velcro material onto the foam a couple of years ago so every pad being shipped today should have this new adhesive formula that is for sure water resistant and much more resistant to chemicals, heat and the wear and tear associated with the oscillating action of the dual action polisher on the 5.0 setting.

I have collected up three large boxes of foam pads used during our Detailing classes on Saturday's to experiment with washing using different soaps, the problem like usual is carving out the time as with forum growth it's really all I can do to keep up with the current duties and behind the scenes work, so adding new projects is difficult.

I know one thing for sure however, washing compounds, paint cleaners, cleaner/polishes and pure polishes will wash out with soap and water fairly easily, however when it comes to removing wax, especially the NXT and the M21 Synthetic Sealant, it's always going to be very tough to remove these products as they are water and detergent resistant.

In fact if you've ever tried to rinse out a foam wax applicator after using either of these two product you will have noticed how difficult it is to get all of the wax out of the pad and when it does come out it's not breaking up in the water, just coming out as a slimy ooze.

Thats why I wash the pads with a paint dewaxer. takes that straight out
I still machine wash all brands of pads I use in the shop, using a natural enzyme cleaner, driven multi and green aussie cleaner plant based soap

yes it will take all the lettering off the velcro over time but the velcro itself is not affected and the pads stay almost like brand new except for a little discoloration after a year or two of use.

magnumforc
Jan 26th, 2010, 04:39 PM
I found a product called OIL EATER that takes wax and paint sealer out of the foam pads with ease. Costs about $11 a gallon and you simply spray some onto the pad and work it into a lather throughout the pad, then rinse the pad under hot running water. All the residue comes out and the pad looks and performs like new. Have had zero problems with delaminating the velcro from the foam, and use it on all brands of pads as well. Water based and biodegradable as well. Also very useful around the garage and shop.

speed3blackmica
Jan 26th, 2010, 04:43 PM
i once used ultimate compound on a yellow soft buff 2.0 foam buffing pad on 2 cars..althought cleaning on the fly regularly, lots of product was stuffed up in there...when i threw the pad into the washing machine, it came out clean around the edges, but not the center...i washed it twice, same thing...i sprayed APC 4:1 on the pad and saturated it in to the pad, threw it back in the wash, and bam...APC breaks up all the excess product with ease

Tuck91
Jan 26th, 2010, 05:38 PM
Before throwing them in the washing machine, rub them out by hand under the sink with hot water. This seems to help as well.

msh
Feb 28th, 2010, 03:48 PM
Since Meguiar's doesn't recommend washing the foam pad getting the product out of the inside of the pad is difficult and to date the best method is to draw it out using pressure with some type of absorbent material to force the excess liquids into the absorbent material.[/QUOTE]


hi, im mike from philippines, can you give some example of absorbent material?thank you

Mike Phillips
Mar 1st, 2010, 06:05 AM
hi, im mike from philippines, can you give some example of absorbent material?thank you


100% Cotton Terry Cloth is pretty absorbent and easily washable so you can use it again.

Note the new W7207, W8207 and W9207 pads are washable.


:)

curley1441
Jul 7th, 2010, 12:25 PM
I know it says that 2.0 cutting pad canonly be used on a rotary bufer , why not a DA polisher

tcope1
Jul 7th, 2010, 12:36 PM
I know it says that 2.0 cutting pad canonly be used on a rotary bufer , why not a DA polisherMegs feels that it's too aggressive for people that would be using a DA as opposed to a rotary. With that said, I know of many people who use the cutting pad on a DA without any problem whatsoever. I think it's a CYA things for Megs but with any experience on the DA and you won't have any issues.

Also, from what I recall, you usually need to follow up after using a cutting pad and most abrasives. Many people won't do this and won't like how the paint looks after justing using the cutting pad.

rusty bumper
Jul 7th, 2010, 02:13 PM
I have used the red cutting pad / DA polisher combo on many occasions without issue, but I would only recommend them as a last resort, and be sure to follow up with the yellow pad afterwards.

Here is a vehicle I did using the red pad / DA combo...

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/6529430-R1-048-22A.jpg

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/6529430-R1-050-23A.jpg

These details were done 7 years ago.

I didn't know how to photograph a car back then, so therefore I have no closeup shots to see if left any swirls. Nevertheless, the owner was ecstatic with results.

l SIC l
Nov 16th, 2010, 09:20 AM
Would a Microfiber drying towel be another option to dry out the pads instead of the traditional terry-cloth towel method?

pizzano
Mar 12th, 2011, 01:21 AM
What can be used to clean off the pads after applying the synthetic sealant 2.0 #21, it seems to stay slimmy , obviously it is not water soluable like the 105/205.

Thanks

klink10
Mar 15th, 2011, 06:02 AM
What can be used to clean off the pads after applying the synthetic sealant 2.0 #21, it seems to stay slimmy , obviously it is not water soluable like the 105/205.

Thanks

Having just done a detail of my chassis using NXT 2.0 as the LSP I found that a spritz of a product from a local store followed by a massaging(sp?) and rinse with warm water made my yellow applicator pad like new. PM for product name and store as I don't think I'm allowed to post it here.

6043ron
Sep 22nd, 2012, 05:30 PM
The only issue I've ever seen caused by hand washing is de-lamination of the Velcro material from the foam, they tend not to stay their original color after washing, but the foam seems to work just the same.

We upgraded the adhesive used to hold the Velcro material onto the foam a couple of years ago so every pad being shipped today should have this new adhesive formula that is for sure water resistant and much more resistant to chemicals, heat and the wear and tear associated with the oscillating action of the dual action polisher on the 5.0 setting.

I have collected up three large boxes of foam pads used during our Detailing classes on Saturday's to experiment with washing using different soaps, the problem like usual is carving out the time as with forum growth it's really all I can do to keep up with the current duties and behind the scenes work, so adding new projects is difficult.

I know one thing for sure however, washing compounds, paint cleaners, cleaner/polishes and pure polishes will wash out with soap and water fairly easily, however when it comes to removing wax, especially the NXT and the M21 Synthetic Sealant, it's always going to be very tough to remove these products as they are water and detergent resistant.

In fact if you've ever tried to rinse out a foam wax applicator after using either of these two product you will have noticed how difficult it is to get all of the wax out of the pad and when it does come out it's not breaking up in the water, just coming out as a slimy ooze.


I use ZEP TNT. It's Truck and trailer wash. Product #0376 803D. I just put a splash on the pad and work it into the pad while running it under a slow running tap water. All the waxes and compounds just runs right out and then just wring it dry. The pad looks like new. Been doing this for years now. ZEP TNT is also great for spraying on your tires and scrubbing them with a brush. The TNT strips the tire right down to the rubber.

Slidder
Sep 28th, 2012, 11:57 AM
I have been washing ALL of my buffing pads using the "Pad Cleaning Bucket." In over two years I have never had a problem of any kind. These are pads I use with a PC or Flex. I have several of the same pads. I will let them air dry but have never put them in any type of plastic bag while they are damp. While one or more of the same type are drying then I will use a fresh one when needed. These are not Mequiar's pads but they do the same thing any Mequiar's pad will. When I am done with these pads I will be ordering ones from Mequiar's. All my pads are dedicated pads ~ one for each product.

lewisb
Nov 11th, 2012, 04:47 PM
Hi all! I'm a newbee here. Just got my new Meguiar's Dual Action Polisher along with a couple of pads, the yellow one for Ultimate Compound and the black one for wax / sealant. I decided on Ultimate Liquid Wax, and everything went great! Finish turned out awesome! Then came the dilemma of how to clean the waxing pad. I read this thread and others and couldn't figure out how to wash it out. As was stated here, water alone did NO good! I tried a using some dish soap in water, again without success. I read one of the posts that said something about an enzymatic cleaner. So here is what I did... I put a couple of inches of hot water in the sink and added Oxi-clean. I let the pad soak for an hour then rinsed it out. After shaking most of the water out, I put it back on the DA polisher and ran it on 6 for about a minute. To my amazement there wasn't a trace of the ULW left! Just like new. Letting it air dry now. What do you think?

Michael Stoops
Nov 12th, 2012, 08:35 AM
Hi all! I'm a newbee here. Just got my new Meguiar's Dual Action Polisher along with a couple of pads, the yellow one for Ultimate Compound and the black one for wax / sealant. I decided on Ultimate Liquid Wax, and everything went great! Finish turned out awesome! Then came the dilemma of how to clean the waxing pad. I read this thread and others and couldn't figure out how to wash it out. As was stated here, water alone did NO good! I tried a using some dish soap in water, again without success. I read one of the posts that said something about an enzymatic cleaner. So here is what I did... I put a couple of inches of hot water in the sink and added Oxi-clean. I let the pad soak for an hour then rinsed it out. After shaking most of the water out, I put it back on the DA polisher and ran it on 6 for about a minute. To my amazement there wasn't a trace of the ULW left! Just like new. Letting it air dry now. What do you think?
If it worked, then it's a good thing! You can just throw the new Soft Buff 2.0 pads, which is what you have, in the washing machine with warm water wash, cold rinse and any regular laundry detergent. Then toss 'em in the dryer on low heat until dry. This almost always removes all of the wax/sealant in the pad, except for a few cases. Most all of the black finishing pads in our training garage here at work look brand new, until you look at the back and see that the ink denoting the model number has faded. These have been washed literally dozens of times, which accounts for the faded ink on the back but the like new appearance of the foam itself (which is, after all, the important part!).

lewisb
Nov 12th, 2012, 09:03 AM
If it worked, then it's a good thing! You can just throw the new Soft Buff 2.0 pads, which is what you have, in the washing machine with warm water wash, cold rinse and any regular laundry detergent. Then toss 'em in the dryer on low heat until dry. This almost always removes all of the wax/sealant in the pad, except for a few cases. Most all of the black finishing pads in our training garage here at work look brand new, until you look at the back and see that the ink denoting the model number has faded. These have been washed literally dozens of times, which accounts for the faded ink on the back but the like new appearance of the foam itself (which is, after all, the important part!).

Michael,

Thanks for the info. Yes, I have the Soft Buff 2.0 pads. Would you wash them separately, or could you wash them with your microfiber towels? Just worry about getting that sealant on everything else in the wash! :laughing2

Bryan

billddrummer
Jul 10th, 2016, 07:56 PM
:bump2

So what is the best way to clean/store foam pads?

I see nothing has been posted to this thread in years.

My pads could use some cleaning but I'm not looking to buy yet another chemical to do it.

Seems like dish soap, hot water and a terry cloth towel are the tools I'd like to use.

Thoughts?

The Guz
Jul 10th, 2016, 09:12 PM
:bump2

So what is the best way to clean/store foam pads?

I see nothing has been posted to this thread in years.

My pads could use some cleaning but I'm not looking to buy yet another chemical to do it.

Seems like dish soap, hot water and a terry cloth towel are the tools I'd like to use.

Thoughts?

APC to clean them. It's a pain to rinse out all of the dish soap out of them.

billddrummer
Jul 10th, 2016, 09:29 PM
APC to clean them. It's a pain to rinse out all of the dish soap out of them.
What's APC? (Ignorance showing:notworthy)

Old Bear
Jul 10th, 2016, 10:22 PM
Bill, THis is a near midnight attempt at humor, so laugh with me.

I believe APC is a TLA for All Purpose Cleaner.


Note: TLA is a TLA for Three Letter Acronymn.

billddrummer
Jul 10th, 2016, 10:27 PM
Bill, THis is a near midnight attempt at humor, so laugh with me.

I believe APC is a TLA for All Purpose Cleaner.


Note: TLA is a TLA for Three Letter Acronymn.

Laughing at both-thanks!

torque
Jul 11th, 2016, 02:26 PM
What's the best type of washer machine to use to clean the pads top or front loader and does the buffing pads float in the water?

wht4drfa5
Jun 11th, 2019, 12:46 PM
How about using a pad washing bucket?

Nick Winn
Jun 12th, 2019, 06:25 AM
How about using a pad washing bucket?

A pad washing bucket is primarily for compound & polish, products that will be released from the pad with water & agitation alone, not soap/detergent. For example, wax is not going to be released/cleaned from a pad washer. We recommend washing in machine with a free & clear detergent, for our microfiber towels and/or foam/microfiber pads. If you choose to use an all purpose cleaner, it would be best to use a product which does not have fabric softeners, like Simple Green. Many people pre-soak in a bucket with an APC, then wash in a machine with a free & clear type laundry detergent.