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Escanaba101
May 29th, 2010, 10:43 AM
Heres the situation:

I just bought a 1988 mustang gt 5sp 5.0l covertible with 17k origininal owner miles. The color is light blue regatta metallic with the gray two tone underneath. It is 100% original even down to the tires and brakes. It was stored in a heated, carpeted garage for the entire length of its life so far. This also comes with some bad though too. It hasnt been started in 17 years and even though that seems like a good thing, I have to replace all the fluids and be very carefull with how I get it running.

I am in the process of detailing it out and I have already gone over the entire car with clay bar after a thourough wash. I noticed that the entire hood and front of the car has subtle acid etching and it stands out so bad in the sun. What should be my process and what products and pads should I be using? I only have a pc dual action. I'm assuming these marks have been there for some time now and I dont know what steps I should be taking. Is removing these marks from a 88 gt alot harder than a newer car with clear coat? Does an 88 even have a clear coat? I wil not be repainting any part of the car because I want to keep everything 100% original as I believe they hold their value better.

I have no idea to post pics on here so if you would like to see them send me your email and Ill send them there. Please help with any advice you have I would really really appreciate it.

Stangfan
May 29th, 2010, 02:34 PM
I have a 1990 Limited Edition Mustang Convertible with Deep Emerald Clearcoated paint. I just finished looking in my Mustang Red Book and could not find any reference to what year Ford started clearcoating paint. I think the best way to tell with your car is to pick an inconspicuous spot and try a bit of polish or even Scratch-X. If you get some paint colour on the polish cloth, chances are your paint is not clearcoated.

alkemyst
May 29th, 2010, 03:19 PM
There is a sticky in the forum for a clear coat test.

Mark Kleis
May 29th, 2010, 05:36 PM
Odds are you won't have a clear coat, but, testing is easy enough.

Get a white or light colored towel (microfiber or 100% terry) and a polish or cleaner wax and rub the paint with it. You should see some color transfer if it is single stage.

Escanaba101
May 30th, 2010, 05:22 AM
Hey guys, you already answered my question for me with the clearcoat! Unfortunately I don't have a clear coat as I picked up light blue paint on my soft buff 2.0 with a little 105. So now that I know it is not clearcoated what are my steps for the acid etching?

cnfowler
May 30th, 2010, 10:56 AM
This should help you get some photos posted for us.

How to Upload and Post an Image (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24941)

Looking forward to seeing some pictures of your beauty.

Colin

InfiniteDetail
May 30th, 2010, 11:02 AM
Sounds like an awesome project! Now that you know you are working withh a single stage paint, you may start thinking of the products for that paint.

I currently own 2 fox mustangs, an '88 GT convertible and an '86 GT Convertible. I've also sanded and polished an '89 LX. Each of these paints responded a little differently to different products.

In general, single stage paints tend to really like M80 because of the rich polishing oils. I've had excellent results with M105 followed by D151 on the '86 GT white single stage. Interestingly, the white '86 GT did not like foam pads at all! I had to finish ith with rotary and a puprple foamed wool with D151.

Just remember to start with the least agressive products first. I would start with M80 and/or M205, then work up to M83, D151, and finally M105.

Have fun with this great project, and be sure to post your progress :bigups