View Full Version : how long would i work a 2x2 area with nxt wax

Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:11 PM
After spending most of the day washed,clayed and speed glazed with the g-100 , seems to me tha the NXT wax goes on real quick, (car waxed in 45 minutes a 04 t-bird) is this correct , am i rushing or do i need to work this into the paint like i do with #80 or just kinda glide the wax over the car minimally working it in a little and let it haze over the paint and move on ,im just curious if i need to work it longer and maybe for how long in a 2x2 area,i like to know if im doing somthing wrong or most of my day and work was in the prep...

Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:22 PM
I try to spread an even coat on the surface. I only work in the wax as long as achieving an even coat takes. Most of my time is spent in prep as you stated. So I don't think you were rushing, unless you missed some spots or didn't get even coverage. Wax is the icing on the cake so to speak.

Was the 45 minutes to apply and remove the NXT? That sounds about right for me. I've waxed my Avalanche (without the plastic armor) in about that much time.

Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:28 PM

Thats what I really like about NXT its quick and easy to apply and remove.

ourbail.... did you use any Ultimate Bonnets (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detailpage.cfm?sku=M-99&store=meg) to remove the wax?

Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:32 PM
Yes Scrub about45 minutes for each coat, this was my second car with the g100 and i feel like im getting a better feel for it ,could also be that i waxed the car in the garaged instead of ouside (better shade and lighting),like i said i was thinking ,am i using the g-100 and NXT wax to its maximum,glad to hear i am and the wax is the iceing... :bounce

Setec Astronomy
Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:33 PM
The G-100 is a great way to apply NXT, allows you to get a nice thin coat. You don't need to work it in any more than is required to get that nice thin coat, should be almost transparent, IMO.

Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:35 PM
thanks mike,thats what i thought,but wanted to confirm

Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:39 PM
gb387, yes i used the ultimte bonnets was the best part,boy the g100 sure makes a nice job of removel,flip the bonnet over, half way done with the car.

Setec Astronomy
Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:53 PM
Originally posted by ourbail
gb387, yes i used the ultimte bonnets was the best part,boy the g100 sure makes a nice job of removel,flip the bonnet over, half way done with the car.

I gotta try that next time.

Jan 22nd, 2005, 09:17 PM
The UB really cuts down the time and effort.


Jan 23rd, 2005, 06:20 AM

Not to mention the nice "POP" one gets with using the PC and UB to remove NXT!

Jan 23rd, 2005, 07:42 AM
I really have to admit that I wasn't expecting a huge difference at first with just application and removal of next using the g-100, but fortunately i was very surprised to see a very deep shine on the black vw golf I applied it too. Removing with the ultimate bonnet takes all of the work out of everything too. This is one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of car care products.

Jan 23rd, 2005, 05:29 PM
just got done with my wifes green Subaru and wow it looks better then new,same as my 04 t-bird, platium silver and it glows,it seems to me that im spending about 7-8 hours doing each car and they pop big time.:bounce

Jan 23rd, 2005, 05:38 PM
Your times will get better, but it does get to the point where that's just how long it's going to take.

Your process is wash, clay, #80, then NXT?

And you work the #80 in a 2x2 area correct?

One time saver might be to break a panel in halves or thirds and work #80 that way. Since #80 breaks down quicker than some other products like #83 I think you'd be safe. You'll move the machine a little faster while using #80, so the section shouldn't dry.

#83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish takes a bit of time to break down. If I spead the #83 over to large of a section, it will dry before I can work the whole section. See what I mean? I could be wrong here.

Were there any specific flaws you were trying to repair?

Got any pics??

Sorry for the 20 questions. Just trying to gather facts to learn.

Jan 24th, 2005, 03:27 PM
No questions it just seemed like clay ing and # 80 took the longest to do and the waxing went quick i just wasnt sure if you pros worked the nxt like #80 or 83 and i just wanted to reassure myself that i was maximize the nxt to the full extent. i need to take some pics of the t-bird and subaru but you can see my truck pics in the gallary under the name ourbail,i think the pewter color of my truck doesnt pop like the silver bird and green subaru,i will post the others in 1-2 days.. i did 2 x Nxt..

Mike Phillips
Jan 24th, 2005, 04:00 PM
Just to chime in,

All the answers and comments to the original questions look correct and the time you're spending is normal.

Claying should be pretty quick unless the finish in question has been extremely neglected and has a lot of bonded contaminants, other than that, it should go pretty quick. As you gain experience, your speed will increase.

As for the paint cleaning step with the #80 Speed Glaze, (or any paint cleaner), this step takes the longest, deserves the most attention and is the most important. If you don't remove the below surface defects during the cleaning step, they will be there when you wipe off your last step product.

During our Saturday detailing clinics, one of the things we stress is to do a thorough job of removing the defects by focusing on the task at hand. When applying ScratchX by hand this means working small areas at a time and overlapping into these areas when moving on to the next section. Same goes for applying products like the the #80 Speed Glaze. It's important to use a slow arm speed, 4-5 lbs of pressure on the head of the polisher and overlapping motions on the 4.5 to 5.0 setting. If you do this, you will have greatly increased your chances for successfully removing a majority of the defects from your car's finish.

An interesting thing we always try to point out is the defects that do remain after detailing your car. If you have done everything correctly and after wiping off your LSP you discover random, isolated, deeper scratches, (RIDS), this is what you're seeing... deeper scratches.

You see, the shallow scratches will buff out leaving behind the deeper ones. With the thousands of lighter, shallower scratches removed, the remaining deeper scratches will now stand out like a sore thumb making it easier for you eyes to detect them. This is normal. The thing to remember is that in order to remove all the defects means to remove more paint and depending on your goals and how much paint you have to work with, (film-build), you may be better off learning to live with the deeper scratches versus trying to remove them.

Here's a saying to remember,

"You can often improve a scratch, but you cannot always remove a scratch"

Here's a different way of saying the same thing,

"Often times you are better off merely trying to improve a defect than to completely remove the defect"

The point being is this, you only have a certain amount of film-build, or paint thickness to work within, if you remove too much paint you will expose the color coat under a clear coat, and in the case of a non-clear coat finish, you will expose the primer under the color coat.

It's also important to remember that when you're working on a clear coat finish, all of the U.V. protection for the paint job itself is in the clear coat, so the more clear you remove, the less U.V. protection you have left.

Hope this helps...


Jan 24th, 2005, 04:47 PM
Thanks Mike for the reply .A wealth of information is learned from this great forum and the great members including yourself that take the time to teach and share you experiances,thanks again and would love to attend a clinic if you guys ever have one in the bay area..

Apr 16th, 2005, 01:46 PM
Just did #80 followed by first coat of NXT on a white Honda CR-V. For my first time, not too bad; the improvement from the #80 actually makes the remaining scratches stand out more, but I'm happy for now. Where I was absolutely amazed was the #80 on the plastic parts: the body-color side mirrors and the bezel around the rear license plate. I don't know if these are white plastic or painted as well, I suspect the former since they seem to oxidize quicker, but the #80 did an amazing job bringing them back.

Put the NXT liquid wax on with the 8006 at speed setting #4 on the PC. Seems like the pad was just eating up the wax and before going far at all, it had spread so thin that that pad was actually removing the wax. I started just leaving the PC on the car with one hand and squirting wax on the car right with the other hand as I moved along because I was having to stop and put more wax on the pad so often. Seemed to work OK.

Switched to a clean 8006 and ultimate bonnet and what thin NXT that was on the car came right off.


1. How thin can/should you go with the NXT? I would use up an entire "X" on the pad per body panel and it still seemed like I didn't get enough coverage.

2. Anything wrong with the technique of just putting the wax on the car in the path of the PC to move more quickly?

3. Can I use the firm white foam pad that came with the 7336 with the ultimate bonnet for removal? I used another 8006 this time, but does the firmness of that stock pad create any risks when it is covered by the bonnet?


Mike Phillips
Apr 16th, 2005, 02:23 PM
Hi ntaylor,

I just finished the Corvette Class and after filling out some paper work, I'll be heading home for the day, (about a 2-3 hour drive), I will try to answer this question and many of the other questions as soon as possible.

Thank you for your patience :xyxthumbs


Apr 16th, 2005, 02:43 PM
Mike, it's amazing how fast you keep up with all of these questions, take as much time as you need. Thanks for your help.