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Toph
Feb 16th, 2011, 06:42 AM
First of all, I want to say this site is great! I've just recently started reading in my quest to finish off my new paint on my car. The only problem is that there's sooo much information to take in. I'm starting to understand the subtle differences in all the different products, but I've got a long way to go.

A little background... About 6 years ago I had my car repainted in base/clear, then life got in the way of my hobby. The car has essentially sat since then, and now that time is more available I'm getting back into it. The car was never sanded & buffed way back when, and I'm trying to take care of that now. There isn't a whole lot of orange peel, but there are plenty of dust nibs all over the place. I've started sanding with 1500, and I intend to move into 2000 (then possibly 2500, and maybe 3000).

My question comes in selecting the correct pads and chemicals to buff this out when I'm done. I'm using a borrowed PC7424 for the time being, and have gotten conflicting comments from people I know about whether it's suitable for finishing the job here. My biggest concern is using a pad/chemical that's going to be too aggressive. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Thanks

DogParkGuy
Feb 16th, 2011, 06:49 AM
Start with the least abrasive pad/chemical combination and do a test spot first.

greg0303
Feb 16th, 2011, 06:51 AM
Welcome to Meguiar's Online.


I would recommend to refine your sanding process with 3000 grit sanding paper. I think you'll be able to remove sanding marks with your PC and M105 Ultra Cut Compound with slow arm speed. You also need an aggressive buffing pad. Do you use Meguiar's, Lake Country or other brand pads?

Many people reach for rotary buffers in this stage for faster cutting. It's gonna take little more time to do it with a DA machine but you should finish pretty good.

Murr1525
Feb 16th, 2011, 06:52 AM
The PC may not be strong enough to remove sanding marks, but if you go up to 3000, you would have the best chance.

You would likely be looking at #105, and either a cutting or polishing pad to remove sanding marks, if that would do it.

Toph
Feb 16th, 2011, 07:12 AM
Wow, thanks for the quick responses!

I've got both an orange and a blue pad from Lake Country (borrowed along with the PC) along with Menzerna Super Intensive and Finishing Glaze. From what I can tell the Super Intensive is no where near enough to get where I want to be.

I'm not really partial to any one brand at this point, this is really my first endeavor into this part of detailing. Part of what drives the Megs interest is that I can pickup supplies locally, and I know alot of people who have had really good results over the years.

It sounds like I need to pickup a cutting pad and some 105.

greg0303
Feb 16th, 2011, 07:20 AM
Murr pointed out some good concerns.

The overall success will depend on the hardness of your paint.

You could also use your PC as a sander but you needed to purchase sanding/ finishing discs (they come in 3" and 6" diameter) and matching backing plate (S3BP or S6BP). Machine (damp sanding) makes you finish very evenly and therefore sanding mark removal is faster and easier.

Meguiar's M105 would be your best chemical choice.

Shawn T.
Feb 16th, 2011, 10:22 AM
Ultimate Compound and an orange Lake Country pad might even do it. Work the product slowly, with pressure, on speed 5 or 6.

Brian Hann
Feb 16th, 2011, 12:58 PM
The PC may not be strong enough to remove sanding marks, but if you go up to 3000, you would have the best chance.


Murr1525 is correct. The defects you mentioned and the process you are considering is not something Meguiar's would recommend you attempt with a DA Polisher.

smack
Feb 16th, 2011, 01:08 PM
Your gonna need a rotory to get sanding marks out.