View Full Version : High Speed Buffing

Apr 1st, 2005, 05:33 AM
I am just learning how to use a high speed makita buffer. What pads do I start and end with when polishing and waxing?

I polished my new mustang by hand and want to move onto usingmy new Makita?

Tim Lingor
Apr 1st, 2005, 08:38 AM
Hey Bluemule and Welcome to Meguiar's Online! :welcome

If this your first time using the rotary, the best advise is start by doing a lot of research and reading on Meguiar's Online on how to use it. Then, watch the Meguiar's Video " How to Remove Paint Defects" which explains the use of the rotary buffer. A rotary buffer is an awesome tool. But it is one that must be practiced with first as a mistake with it, could do a lot of damage to the paint, and very quickly.

It is a good idea to first try the rotary on something you do not care about. Another idea, is to visit the local junk yard and pick up a decent hood or panel to practice on.

As for products to use:

1. W-64 6.5" Rotary Backing Plate for the 6.5" pads (though the Makita comes with a plate designed for 8" pads, it is much easier to learn to use the rotary with the smaller pads.)

2. You will need W-8006 Polishing Pads and a W-9006 Finishing Pads. Later on, you can get into the W-7006 Cutting Pads and W-4000 Wool Pads. But for now, stick with the Polishing and Finishing Pads.

3. #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, #80 Speed Glaze, and #82 Swirl Free Polish. These are the main ones I use for the majority of situations.

The above products will definitely get you started! :)

Finally, a rotary is for paint correction (ie. to remove swirls, marring, and scratches/sanding marks). I would not use one for wax or sealant application as [many of] the products were not designed for the extra heat/friction the rotary is capable of. If you use a rotary with wax and/or sealant, the product will break down way too fast, leading to holograms and perhaps buffer burns. The cleaner/compounds have special lubricity oils added to help to prevent the finish from being scoured from the buffing process.

I use the rotary most of the time as I just love the finish it is capable of providing. However, it does take some practice in using it. But once that is achieved, you will LOVE using it!! :xyxthumbs


the other pc
Apr 1st, 2005, 09:08 AM
Originally posted by 2hotford
... I would not use one for wax or sealant application as the products were not designed for the extra heat/friction the rotary is capable of.... Sorry to be contrary, but Are you sure about that?

Although I don't have the catalog in front of me, I thought the pro series waxes and sealants are designed for rotary application (since rotaries are very popular in body and detailing shops). I know the new #21 sealant is meant for rotary use.

If they are then I would think that they would be the good choice to start.

A pure polish like #3 would also be a good product to start with because it has no cutting/leveling action.


Tim Lingor
Apr 1st, 2005, 09:33 AM

My comment was a general statement rather than a rule. As the poster is new to using the rotary buffer, I did not want him to believe that it is OK to use it with all Last Step Products when it is not. Most products will not handle the rotaries heat and therefore break down too quickly. As the products breakdown, the buffer will start to hop/bounce. This may lead to holograms etc...

Now with that said, yes, certain LSP's can be used with a rotary. As I mentioned in my review of #21, yes, it can be used with a rotary as the product stays "wet" longer and therefore, allow more "buff time" with the rotary.


Other LSP products that are rotary capable are: #6 Cleaner Wax, #66 Quick Detailer, #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax.

Please note: that #20 Polymer Sealant, Medallion Premium Paint Protection, D-150 X-Presss Wax, and NXT Tech Wax are not included in that list. These are for Orbital, DA or by Hand.

The products that are rotary capable have certain properties to allow them to be used with a rotary (ie. "wet"). Moreover, most people that are new with a rotary will use too high of speed when applying a LSP. Again, the product will breakdown too soon thereby instilling the aforementioned holograms. Finally, a product that is listed as "rotary friendly" does not always make it easy to use with one. I have used a rotary for over 16 years and found that certain speeds work better with certain products. This was found through trial an error. For example, with #3 Machine Glaze, I would suggest using around a 1000 RPM. A higher speed may cause the product to gum up on the pad or paint. But with #83 DACP, it works best around 1750 RPM, and #82 SFP around 1300 RPM. With #21 I like using it around 1300 rpm.

When a person has gained a fair amount of experience with using a rotary buffer, then more products that are rotary friendly, can be used. However, I do want to suggest to a beginner to use every product that is rotary friendly as a bad experience with a particular product and the rotary may sour their experience with using the awesome tool! :)


Mike Phillips
Apr 1st, 2005, 10:11 AM
Allow me to chime in on the topic of applying a wax with a rotary buffer...

It is true that some Meguiar's Professional Waxes can be applied with a rotary buffer, this is because in general, the detailing industry is about speed and production work, not show car work. While the fastest way to restore a neglected finish and to remove serious defects is with a rotary buffer, the best appearance results will always be achieved when a wax is applied by hand, orbital or dual action polisher after the appropriate surface prep has been performed by any means.

Somewhere on the forum there is a discussion on using the rotary buffer to apply waxes, if possible perhaps we can use the search function to find it as I would prefer not to re-type that information.


Mike Phillips
Apr 1st, 2005, 10:19 AM
Originally posted by bluemule
I am just learning how to use a high speed Makita buffer. What pads do I start and end with when polishing and waxing?

I polished my new mustang by hand and want to move onto using my new Makita?

Find something nobody cares about to learn how to use the rotary buffer. Don't try to learn how to use a rotary buffer on a black Viper, (or insert your favorite car after the word black).

Perhaps your neighbor has a junker parked along side his house? Perhaps you have neglected car you don't care much about?

Grab some extension cords and visit your local wrecking yard and ask the owner if you can practice buffing out some hoods and fenders on some wrecked cars. (I've done this).

Watch our how-to video here,

How to remove paint defects (http://autopia.org/kb/index.php?page=index_v1&c=20)

For what it's worth, the only time I've ever applied a wax using a rotary buffer was on a car I buffed out for a dealership to help another guy's detailing business. My friend had contracted to buff out all the dealerships used cars for a set price per car each month. It is the only production detail I have ever done in my life and after doing it, I told myself I would never do it again and I have not.