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Michael Stoops
Oct 28th, 2012, 10:23 AM
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/2060/PowerSystem_Tool_2.png

We sort of teased this last year, but for 2013 this new system is a definite go, and you'll be seeing a lot of promotion for it online in the very near future, including a Quik Tips Video scheduled for launch in the next couple of weeks.

Product Attributes:


Superior, patented engineering
Heavy duty & multi-function
For corded 3/8 - 1/2" drills with 1,500 - 2,500 rpms range
Power System tool w/yellow polishing pad
A versatile, expandable, paint care platform
Multi-tasker, not a single-function tool


Solutions: DA Power Packs

At launch, 3 solution-based kits

Paint correction (compound & cutting pad)
Paint polishing (polish & polishing pad)
Wax application (wax & finishing pad)
More applications to follow




Refills: DA Power Pads

Replacement 2-pack of pads

Cutting (paint correction)
Polishing (paint polishing)
Finishing (wax application)
Interior (carpet & upholstery cleaning)




Part Number: G3500
MSRP: $59.99 (tool and one yellow pad)

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/2060/medium/Attribute_Diagram_72.png

With this tool, "DA" means both "drill applied" and "dual action", but the dual action is in the form of a forced rotation rather than the free rotating spindle action you might be used to on a polisher like our G110v2. The backing plate is not interchangeable, but the pads are. In fact, the DA Power System makes use of our current line of 4" Soft Buff pads. Drill recommendations are for a corded drill with max speed in the 1500 to 2500 rpm range. The gear reduction ratio in the tool prevents it from spinning at equally high speeds for safety reasons. We also recommend if you have a reversible drill that you use it in the "forward" direction (ie, the setting you would normally use for drilling a hole) rather than "reverse" setting. Most drills run at a slower maximum speed when set to reverse and this will compromise the ability to remove defects from the paint.

The tool is sold with a yellow polishing pad, but no liquid of any kind.



DA Power Pads
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/2060/powerpads.png

1. DA Power Pads - Cutting Pad
Part Number: G3507
MSRP: $13.99


2. DA Power Pads - Polishing Pad
Part Number: G3508
MSRP: $13.99


3. DA Power Pads - Finishing Pad
Part Number: G3509
MSRP: $13.99

For anyone who has shied away from purchasing a buffer either due to fear of using a power tool on their paint, or even just the cost of acquiring a buffer, this is a great alternative to hand applying these products in order to achieve paint correction. For those of you who already have a buffer but find use of a 4" pad to be a bit unwieldy, this system can be a great addition to your detailing arsenal. You might think that using such a tool on a typical power drill might be a bit unwieldy, too, but it is surprisingly ergonomic. The handle is free to rotate to make accessibility easy, and to be able to move it away from mirrors, antennae, etc when buffing, and it's equally accessible to left handed users and right handed users alike. The forced rotation movement of the tool means vibration is also kept very low, adding to the comfort level when used for extended periods of time.

Check out our Quik Tips Video (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?56799) on this system.

Alfisti
Oct 29th, 2012, 08:06 AM
Great idea for the masses. Love the forced-rotation...just like my Makita BO6040. :D

Marc08EX
Oct 29th, 2012, 08:25 AM
Are the pads the same as the 4" Softbuff 2.0 pads?

Also, I thought that the burgundy cutting pads weren't recommended to use with a D/A? Why are you guys paring up UC with a cutting pad?

Michael Stoops
Oct 29th, 2012, 08:58 AM
As we mention in the post, yes, these are indeed the same 4" Soft Buff pads we've had out for a few years now. Remember, Marc, this is a forced rotation tool not a typical dual action like our G110v2 or Porter Cable buffer. It's also going to give less power when used with a drill than with a traditional DA so the cutting pad is very well matched for this tool. Sure, on some very delicate paints you may see some slight hazing, but that would happen on that paint with all kinds of tool/pad combos and would therefore require a follow up with a less aggressive pad/liquid combo.

aerogt01
Oct 29th, 2012, 09:02 AM
Called it! Sorry, I had to...

Hemin8r
Oct 29th, 2012, 09:26 AM
I guess I can now say I've tried this out and it was not as awkward as I thought it would be. Good price too.

SpoolMe
Oct 29th, 2012, 09:33 AM
Way better price than the old $200 one... will it to as good of a job? I have never used a hand-held but i'd like to try this if its better than doing it by hand

Michael Stoops
Oct 29th, 2012, 09:35 AM
Thanks for chiming in, Jesse. Speaking strictly from personal experience here, I thought at first that this would be really awkward and maybe even clumsy to use, but it really isn't at all. In fact, it's surprisingly comfortable and really easy to manage. Plus, a drill tends to be a super smooth operating tool and the forced rotation of the DA Power System doesn't vibrate as much as a traditional DA does.

Marc08EX
Oct 29th, 2012, 09:36 AM
As we mention in the post, yes, these are indeed the same 4" Soft Buff pads we've had out for a few years now. Remember, Marc, this is a forced rotation tool not a typical dual action like our G110v2 or Porter Cable buffer. It's also going to give less power when used with a drill than with a traditional DA so the cutting pad is very well matched for this tool. Sure, on some very delicate paints you may see some slight hazing, but that would happen on that paint with all kinds of tool/pad combos and would therefore require a follow up with a less aggressive pad/liquid combo.

Gotcha! Thanks for clearing that up Mike. The product says "DA" so I thought it will have the same action as the typical dual action polishers currently in the market.

Evan.J
Oct 29th, 2012, 10:17 AM
Im very interested in seeing this thing in action. Id really like to see what those interior pads can do for carpet and leather seats.

smack
Oct 29th, 2012, 10:24 AM
This looks like a great alternative to buying a G110v2 if you have a corded drill at home. Problem being is imagine the consumer trying to buff out a big super duty with just the 4 inch pads.

Maybe there is hope for the 5.5 pad size???????????

MandarinaRacing
Oct 29th, 2012, 10:25 AM
Excellent news for the Latin market!

STRIFE
Oct 29th, 2012, 10:37 AM
I'm thinking I will buy this to shampoo mats & carpets since I already have megs DA, GG 6 & GG3.
Can't go wrong with this tool :kiss

Marc08EX
Oct 29th, 2012, 11:08 AM
Mike I know you said this can only be used with a corded drill. But I was thinking about using the finishing pad when applying wax using a cordless drill because there's no power/torque needed to remove swirls. I'm only going to spread the product around. Will this pose any problems?

STRIFE
Oct 29th, 2012, 11:24 AM
^ i was thinking the exact same thing with a cordless drill.....pretty sure on the lowest speed setting and black finish pad, you'll be ok......and the fact it's cordless is a huge bonus!!

andytsang
Oct 29th, 2012, 12:36 PM
^ I am wondering the same thing. I don't have corded drill. I wonder we could use it with cordless drill for interior or waxing.

Murr1525
Oct 29th, 2012, 12:42 PM
Carpet might be too much resistance for a cordless drill... a leather/vinyl seat maybe ok.

Michael Stoops
Oct 29th, 2012, 12:47 PM
Unless you have a very potent cordless drill, you're going to be challenged to do much beyond just applying wax with this tool. But a good cordless drill, on a full charge, is a great way to apply wax without pulling out a full sized DA, or if you like applying a paste wax with a power tool. But it's surprising how quickly a cordless tool can bog down once you spread its power over the surface area of a pad. With a corded drill you can really bear down on the pad and it will keep rotating.

FX4619
Oct 31st, 2012, 05:24 PM
Why is Meguiars competing against their own products? This tool may reduce G110v2 sales, with the exception of the interior cleaning kit.

Marc08EX
Oct 31st, 2012, 07:10 PM
Why is Meguiars competing against their own products? This tool may reduce G110v2 sales, with the exception of the interior cleaning kit.

I don't think that the DA power system is going to eat up sales of the G110v2. IMO, they're trying to target the car enthusiast who's not willing to shell out $180 for a dual action polisher especially if they're afraid to use it. For $60, it's more bearable in an amateur's pocket.

I can relate to this in economics where the manufacturer/seller is trying to capture everyone in the market. The example in that topic is first class vs economy class ticket pricing. You're riding in the same airplane but some people pay premium to get some VIP treatment and extra benefits. The G110v2 is like the first class ticket while the power system is the economy class ticket.

Soarer5
Oct 31st, 2012, 08:26 PM
Great points by Marc08EX. The average consumer will probably only use this on their own cars. Can you imagine polishing multiple cars with 4" pads lol? So for anyone looking to detail as a hobby/extra income will most likely invest in a G110v2. Each system has it's own market. Just like Toyota has some nice cars, but their Lexus line is on another level above it.

jhhodges
Nov 2nd, 2012, 08:48 AM
Saw this tool in action last night. Looks like just the thing to complement a G110v2 for smaller/tighter areas. Put me on the list for one.

CumminsCrazed
Nov 2nd, 2012, 03:14 PM
do ya spose i could use this system with my cordless drill?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-hammerdrills-dc901kl.aspx

Murr1525
Nov 2nd, 2012, 03:20 PM
Maybe waxing with the hammer turned off...

ricadodetail
Nov 2nd, 2012, 11:42 PM
It would be great it next year the power system comes with a brush for the interior to get really deep into the carpets or does this already do that? Almost all manufacturers focus on the exterior but i would like to see more power tools for the interior. Great start though dont get me wrong not complaining just wishing cant wait to try it out.

SpoolMe
Nov 3rd, 2012, 05:35 PM
I just realized this doesnt power itself... you need a separate power source? *disappointed* :(

Murr1525
Nov 3rd, 2012, 06:49 PM
Well, it is meant to be an attatchment for a drill.

Michael Stoops
Nov 5th, 2012, 09:46 AM
do ya spose i could use this system with my cordless drill?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-hammerdrills-dc901kl.aspxAs good as this tool might be, it just meets the minimum speed requirements for this tool. We recommend 1500-2500 rpm range, which is typical of corded tools. This tool shows a max speed of 1600 rpm, so with the 9:1 reduction ratio in the tool it's going to be at the bottom limit for defect removal. Still, this drill could be just the ticket for quick wax application with the tool, especially a paste wax. For spot correction it might be OK, too, but any longer term use is going to seriously push a cordless tool.


Maybe waxing with the hammer turned off...Undoubtedly!!!


I just realized this doesnt power itself... you need a separate power source? *disappointed* :(Well, since most people already own a drill, we're able to keep costs down by not incorporating all that goes into the drill itself.

s word
Nov 6th, 2012, 09:34 AM
I can't wait for this tool. To earlier comments I do think this will be a perfect stepping stool for those who have not tried a DA yet. I know for a fact I would have never used a DA had I not attended the Meguiars 101 class. But If I lived out of state, I could see this as a step up before the DA. Now that I have a DA I still have a ton of uses for this product. Like the Piano Finish trim on the exterior of my VW CC. The pieces between the front and rear door are hard to get at with the larger foam pads. If I had this tool that job could be done much easier.

Mike I see the red, yellow, black pad selection similar DA.

Right now on the DA i don;t use red. I use yellow for compound and black for polish/wax. Is the foam similar that I could use the same setup on the DA Power System (DAPS)? Or is red suggested for correction due to the different nature of the tool?

I really want this for the carpet attachment. Can that process be explained a little further? Is it vacuum, spray on cleaner, use DAPS, wipe off? or should I use a wet vac to remove soap/contaminants after DAPS process?
Is there any bit in the kit to take care of rubber monster mat type floor mats? A lot of the cars I work on have them and I imagine a foam attachment and soap/degreaser would fix those mats up real quick. Thanks

Michael Stoops
Nov 6th, 2012, 03:47 PM
I can't wait for this tool. To earlier comments I do think this will be a perfect stepping stool for those who have not tried a DA yet. I know for a fact I would have never used a DA had I not attended the Meguiars 101 class. But If I lived out of state, I could see this as a step up before the DA. Now that I have a DA I still have a ton of uses for this product. Like the Piano Finish trim on the exterior of my VW CC. The pieces between the front and rear door are hard to get at with the larger foam pads. If I had this tool that job could be done much easier.

Mike I see the red, yellow, black pad selection similar DA.

Right now on the DA i don;t use red. I use yellow for compound and black for polish/wax. Is the foam similar that I could use the same setup on the DA Power System (DAPS)? Or is red suggested for correction due to the different nature of the tool?

I really want this for the carpet attachment. Can that process be explained a little further? Is it vacuum, spray on cleaner, use DAPS, wipe off? or should I use a wet vac to remove soap/contaminants after DAPS process?
Is there any bit in the kit to take care of rubber monster mat type floor mats? A lot of the cars I work on have them and I imagine a foam attachment and soap/degreaser would fix those mats up real quick. Thanks
While we don't usually recommend our burgundy foam cutting pad on a traditional DA because the aggressiveness of that pad, when coupled with the orbital motion of a traditional DA, has a high tendency to haze paint. This DA Power System is not an orbital movement like a G110v2, Porter Cable, etc but rather a forced rotation similar to the Flex 3401. Hazing isn't such an issue here so we use the extra cutting power of the burgundy pad to get the job done more effectively.

The carpet attachment is a specialized foam pad that should be used much as you describe - spray on your cleaner, agitate thoroughly with the DAPS, then wipe or blot dry. Now, if you're using a cleaner that really should be rinsed with water then you should do so, and then use either a shop vac or similar to dry the carpet.

For rubber floor mats you could easily use something like our M39 Heavy Duty Vinyl Cleaner and one of the yellow foam polishing pads normally used for paint. This is actually pretty common with a full sized DA when cleaning the vinyl seating in boats.

Michael Stoops
Nov 6th, 2012, 03:48 PM
If you want to see this system in action we just posted up our new Quik Tips Video (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?56799) showcasing the DA Power System.

kiwiatlarge
Nov 6th, 2012, 08:10 PM
Looks good... I could see me having a go with this.. :) .... D/A's are so expensive here. $400 for the Meguiars, and $300 for the Kestrel.. and you can't just go down to your local stockist and get them either... Gotta get them in from the suppliers...

Might have to wait a while to get them though.. I've given up on trying to find the 2012 products and have decided to order some in... lol... (wanted to get my hands on the brake dust barrier and gold class spray)

s word
Nov 7th, 2012, 09:21 AM
When I first saw this in a magazine before the 2013 actual release I was very hesitant, thinking "come on meguiars this is all you can do? A cheap DA wanna be" After further review I think of all the products launched I am most excited about THIS! Perfect for tiny areas, hard to reach spots, small jobs, awkward spots...also good for carpets and interior. I am going to use the **** out of this. Not for full jobs (i have a DA) but even last night I was working on my pillars and using something with much less surface area and slightly less setup time would have been great. I'll be sure to be in line for this.

Thanks for the mat cleaning tip mike. I would have never used the foam pad that way but it makes sense. I have always used soft brushes and they don't remove anything without a ton of work.

Now once that foam pad is used this way, is it suggested to isolate that pad for only mat cleaning use? To me common sense says one foam pad dedicated to mats, never to touch paint again.

Vettefan
Nov 7th, 2012, 10:43 AM
If you want to see this system in action we just posted up our new Quik Tips Video (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?56799) showcasing the DA Power System.

Video & DA System tool looks great! I see in the video Ultimate Compound and UPol are being used to remove fine defects. Can products like M09 Swirl Remover and M80 from the Mirror Glaze line also be used with the new tool? Will they have the same effeectiveness as the Ultimate/consumer products or are the Mirror Glaze products really intended for the DA in order to be effective?

Vettefan

Michael Stoops
Nov 7th, 2012, 11:21 AM
Video & DA System tool looks great! I see in the video Ultimate Compound and UPol are being used to remove fine defects. Can products like M09 Swirl Remover and M80 from the Mirror Glaze line also be used with the new tool? Will they have the same effeectiveness as the Ultimate/consumer products or are the Mirror Glaze products really intended for the DA in order to be effective?

Vettefan
Well, in theory you could use anything from our old Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner all the way up to M101 if you wanted to. But talking specifically about the two products mentioned relative to UC and UP, you will get more cut from UC because it's definitely more aggressive than either M09 or M80 (or even M83 for that matter). If you have those older diminishing abrasive products on hand already and want to give them a go, by all means feel free. It really all comes down to what products are the very best match for your paint and its current condition. We package the products we do as accessory packs for this tool because they work across an extremely broad spectrum of paints and it makes the decision process for the average consumer very straightforward.

Vettefan
Nov 7th, 2012, 12:00 PM
Wow... Can't believe UL Polish is more agressive than M09, M80 or even M83. I would have guessed it would be UL Compound being more agressive than the Mirror Glaze items I mentioned. Amazing....

Michael Stoops
Nov 7th, 2012, 02:27 PM
Wow... Can't believe UL Polish is more agressive than M09, M80 or even M83. I would have guessed it would be UL Compound being more agressive than the Mirror Glaze items I mentioned. Amazing....
Excuse me a second while I wipe the egg off my face here...........


That was a bit of a typo on my part, and a very important one at that! UC (as in Ultimate Compound) is more aggressive than those three Mirror Glaze products, NOT UP (as in Ultimate Polish). My apologies for the confusion, and I'm going to change that in my earlier post in just a sec.

For the record, UC is derived from M105, UP is derived from M205. Both have less cut than the respective M products they are derived from, however.

Vettefan
Nov 7th, 2012, 03:16 PM
Excuse me a second while I wipe the egg off my face here...........


That was a bit of a typo on my part, and a very important one at that! UC (as in Ultimate Compound) is more aggressive than those three Mirror Glaze products, NOT UP (as in Ultimate Polish). My apologies for the confusion, and I'm going to change that in my earlier post in just a sec.

For the record, UC is derived from M105, UP is derived from M205. Both have less cut than the respective M products they are derived from, however.

No problemo Mike... Thanks for keeping us on the right path... as always.

Vettefan

93Vette
Nov 8th, 2012, 06:43 PM
I saw this in the video, looks ok for the price. I'm all for buying this product.

challengerboy
Nov 12th, 2012, 06:00 PM
Where/when can I get the pads for this?

Michael Stoops
Nov 13th, 2012, 07:48 AM
The pads are our standard 4" Soft Buff pads that have been out for a few years now. These are currently available through all the major online detailing supply places but will soon be sold as DA Power System Power Pad packs, with and without the associated liquids. These should be available at the same retail outlets that pick up the main Power System itself.

Kingfish73
Nov 14th, 2012, 05:54 AM
When will we be able to buy this in the stores?

Michael Stoops
Nov 14th, 2012, 07:55 AM
When will we be able to buy this in the stores?
It will be available through major online retailers in a few weeks, on shelves in brick and mortar stores in 1 to 2 months.

s word
Nov 27th, 2012, 04:23 PM
ordered

umi000
Nov 27th, 2012, 10:54 PM
Just out of curiosity, what's the throw/orbit size on this?

s word
Nov 28th, 2012, 05:55 PM
So I just received my unit. Great initial build quality. Used it to wax the hood already. It is pretty much what you would expect from the tool. Not as awkward to use as I expected.

Mike I really wanted this for interiors and carpets by any chance do you know more about those pads being released?

juliom2
Dec 3rd, 2012, 05:02 PM
some pics.... Meguiars DA Power System!!!!


http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04714.jpg?t=1354465503






http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04715.jpg?t=1354465610







http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04718.jpg?t=1354465705



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04722.jpg?t=1354465878



Well packed....



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04723.jpg?t=1354465973




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04724.jpg?t=1354466092





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04726.jpg?t=1354466305








http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04727.jpg?t=1354466408




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04728.jpg?t=1354466527



Versatile......


http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04729.jpg?t=1354466618


http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04730.jpg?t=1354466700



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04731.jpg?t=1354466808




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04732.jpg?t=1354466925




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04733.jpg?t=1354467043



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04735.jpg?t=1354467144


http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04736.jpg?t=1354467230



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04737.jpg?t=1354467304





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04725.jpg?t=1354466198



The proven results combo......



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04738.jpg?t=1354467363



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04739.jpg?t=1354467419





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04740.jpg?t=1354467476




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04741.jpg?t=1354467590





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04743.jpg?t=1354467596





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04744.jpg?t=1354467691




Complete.......


http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04745.jpg?t=1354467707





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04748.jpg?t=1354467902






http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04752.jpg?t=1354468091




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04757.jpg?t=1354468268





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04758.jpg?t=1354468301





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04760.jpg?t=1354468374




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04761.jpg?t=1354468382




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04762.jpg?t=1354498627




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04763.jpg?t=1354498680




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04765.jpg?t=1354498725




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04766-1.jpg?t=1354498775




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04767-1.jpg?t=1354498831





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04769-1.jpg?t=1354498883





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04770-1.jpg?t=1354498929






http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04771-1.jpg?t=1354498978



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04772-1.jpg?t=1354499025





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04775-1.jpg?t=1354499167






http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04776-1.jpg?t=1354499217





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04777-1.jpg?t=1354499276




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04778-1.jpg?t=1354499335



All primed up.......


http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04779.jpg?t=1354499400





http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04780.jpg?t=1354499457


locked and loaded......



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04781-1.jpg?t=1354499512



Ready to.......Scottwax2



http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04782-1.jpg?t=1354499568

davey g-force
Dec 3rd, 2012, 05:26 PM
Wow... I can tell you're excited - two or three photos would probably have been enough. :poke

Enjoy! :)

juliom2
Dec 3rd, 2012, 07:48 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zrqbbRgna0&list=UU_7ZNyyVHZfLMJlhvXPFSuA&index=5&feature=plpp_video

Michael Stoops
Dec 4th, 2012, 07:53 AM
Very nice, Julio! Have you had a chance to use it yet? We're curious to see how long that cordless drill lasts, and if it has enough power to do any sort of correction. We recommend a corded drill, not cordless, with a max speed between 1500 - 2500 rpm for defect removal, but a good cordless drill just might work for simple waxing of a vehicle. I just picked up a cordless drill and will trying this over the weekend.

greg0303
Dec 4th, 2012, 08:04 AM
When will we be able to buy this in the stores?

Both ADS (autodetalingsolutions.net) and AutoGeek (autogeek.net) have DA Power System in stock.

juliom2
Dec 4th, 2012, 02:24 PM
Very nice, Julio! Have you had a chance to use it yet? We're curious to see how long that cordless drill lasts, and if it has enough power to do any sort of correction. We recommend a corded drill, not cordless, with a max speed between 1500 - 2500 rpm for defect removal, but a good cordless drill just might work for simple waxing of a vehicle. I just picked up a cordless drill and will trying this over the weekend.


Tool is more than users could expect from a drill attachment. I was very surprised of how well it worked with my cordless drill to tackle small defects.
Tremendous power transfer that gets the pad really working on the surface. Trigger response is accurate to ensure control at all times.
Applying wax is very easy with the DA Power System (and has a high fun factor also).



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7OebDzJ2GA&playnext=1&list=UU_7ZNyyVHZfLMJlhvXPFSuA Scottwax2

juliom2
Dec 4th, 2012, 02:49 PM
Drill in hi speed setting...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-lEAtytT9U&list=UU_7ZNyyVHZfLMJlhvXPFSuA&index=3&feature=plpp_video

Murr1525
Dec 4th, 2012, 04:08 PM
How hard were you pressing down for defect removal?

juliom2
Dec 5th, 2012, 02:12 PM
I would estimate 4 to 7 pounds in occasions, since is a forced rotation device
you dont want to apply a lot of pressure primarily because is not needed
to exceed the pressure to be worked on the surface thanks to the efficiency of the planetary gears of the device, in addition
excess pressure will compromise the control of the pass with the DA Power System.

Murr1525
Dec 5th, 2012, 03:50 PM
Looking forward to using it on defects... will be great if it doesnt even take much pressure to accomplish that.

Michael Stoops
Dec 11th, 2012, 01:16 PM
Just an FYI - I did a little test over the weekend with an 18v cordless drill and easily waxed my entire car on a single charge. I used NXT Tech Wax 2.0 paste and a black finishing pad. It spread quickly, very thin and even, and it took almost no effort. With a powerful cordless drill I'm sure you could easily to some small spot correction, but the extra pressure required for defect removal, and the extra time involved in doing so over a given area, would most likely drain the battery long before you could finish the entire vehicle. Stick with a corded drill for full vehicle correction, no doubt about it. But if you like paste waxes, this is super convenient for machine applying them with ease.

Marc08EX
Dec 11th, 2012, 03:42 PM
Just an FYI - I did a little test over the weekend with an 18v cordless drill and easily waxed my entire car on a single charge. I used NXT Tech Wax 2.0 paste and a black finishing pad. It spread quickly, very thin and even, and it took almost no effort. But if you like paste waxes, this is super convenient for machine applying them with ease.

That's the exact why I'm going to buy this tool. I seriously cannot wait.

juliom2
Dec 11th, 2012, 07:00 PM
for spot correction; is better to set the drill at a low speed and work the compound as you would with a DA polisher.
Small spot and a few passes...

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04785.jpg?t=1354499704


work the compound and inspect the surface as you go...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELjl7ygvce8


finish with your favorite wax....

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04798.jpg?t=1354500265




http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k603/juliom2/DSC04799.jpg?t=1354500317

DAN THA MAN
Dec 11th, 2012, 08:08 PM
So Mike, when will this be available for purchase? I assume it's not out yet because most sites I check out show it as "out of stock" or estimate shipping by the end of January 2013. I really really want one but I need it now. I am a man without a buffer. Help! LOL Can't wait to get my paws on it. Also do you know if there will be an all-in-one super saver pack (DA Power System + Compound Kit + Polish Kit + Wax Kit), and if so how much? Thanks

STRIFE
Dec 11th, 2012, 10:11 PM
^^^
Autogeek has in stock http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-da-power-system.html
ADS has in stock http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/meguiars-da-power-system-tool-g3500.html

DAN THA MAN
Dec 11th, 2012, 10:56 PM
Thanks, I ended up ordering from autopia.com (free FedEx shipping), just wish amazon had it in stock, would've saved $30, but wouldn't get it until sometime next year (all they would tell me is mid-2013 on the phone). Can't wait to try it out.

9feet
Dec 16th, 2012, 03:51 AM
Mike Stoop I wonder if there is a list of recommended drills ? Im placing an order for this deliver to Indonesia but i cant find reference to recommended drills.. Is wattage an issue to cutting power as well ? As i've found that wattage is everything when it comes to da and rotary.. I had a rotary that bogs down since it only took 700 watts and powerful da usually takes more watts... I am concerned since looking at the 2500 rpms dewalt drill in the US like dwd110 that drills is rated 120v and 8amps which means 960watts.. The drills i found here shopping online though rated at 2600,2800,3000 rpms takes a mere 500 watts.. Im afraid if rpms are not everything that counts can you advice thanks ?

Murr1525
Dec 16th, 2012, 11:16 AM
Here is the drill I used.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-28126-6.5-amp-corded-3-8inch-pro-rear/p-00928126000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Now I only waxed so far, will try defect removal over the holiday. However it did not seem like bogging down was going to be an issue.

9feet
Dec 16th, 2012, 07:10 PM
Here is the drill I used.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-28126-6.5-amp-corded-3-8inch-pro-rear/p-00928126000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Now I only waxed so far, will try defect removal over the holiday. However it did not seem like bogging down was going to be an issue.

Looking forward to it mate

Michael Stoops
Jan 4th, 2013, 09:49 AM
Mike Stoop I wonder if there is a list of recommended drills ? Im placing an order for this deliver to Indonesia but i cant find reference to recommended drills.. Is wattage an issue to cutting power as well ? As i've found that wattage is everything when it comes to da and rotary.. I had a rotary that bogs down since it only took 700 watts and powerful da usually takes more watts... I am concerned since looking at the 2500 rpms dewalt drill in the US like dwd110 that drills is rated 120v and 8amps which means 960watts.. The drills i found here shopping online though rated at 2600,2800,3000 rpms takes a mere 500 watts.. Im afraid if rpms are not everything that counts can you advice thanks ?
We don't have a list of recommended drills, but since you're using small pads with this tool you can get away with a lower watt rating here than you can with a tool that has to spin a larger pad. For example: while you'll be hard pressed to find a cordless drill that will deliver enough power to correct defects, even the inexpensive 18v Harbor Freight drill that I have is more than sufficient for applying a paste wax with this tool. It doesn't take a whole lot more than that to keep a cutting or polishing pad spinning for defect removal. We would think that a 500 watt drill capable of 3000 rpm would do the job.

cyben76
Jan 11th, 2013, 06:41 AM
Possible to post recommended drill RPMs for individual task, eg Compounding, Polishing and Waxing?

Murr1525
Jan 11th, 2013, 06:53 AM
Most drills dont have an RPM gauge, so I dont know if that will really work.

Michael Stoops
Jan 11th, 2013, 08:24 AM
Possible to post recommended drill RPMs for individual task, eg Compounding, Polishing and Waxing?


Most drills dont have an RPM gauge, so I dont know if that will really work.

As Mat points out, it's not easy to find a drill with an RPM gauge so we don't specify settings for each step. It's more about pressure and speed over the paint that varies from step to step with this tool. For example, when compounding you'll want to move pretty slowly and apply moderate pressure to the pad. Polishing can be done with faster speed over the paint and less pressure, while waxing can be done quite quickly and with minimal pressure. In all cases you can run the drill at full speed - and unless you have a lockout on the power trigger of the drill, trying to feather the speed can be quite fatiguing and we find it's easier to just hold the trigger fully depressed.

BMW-5
Jan 20th, 2013, 04:07 PM
I got my local car care store to call their meguiars rep. and ask about the power system. He said the rep. had no idea of any such product and that we would not be getting it here in Australia. Looks like we don't get any of the good stuff here. I was looking forward to using this... any idea on what i can do?

ps. i have looked at various sites in the US and UK but all of them charge obscene amounts for shipping to australia

s word
Feb 4th, 2013, 10:49 AM
What ever happened to this part of the DA PowerSystem Kit? I intended to mainly use the DA powersystem for interior work.
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/2060/Picture1b1.png

Michael Stoops
Feb 5th, 2013, 08:07 AM
What ever happened to this part of the DA PowerSystem Kit? I intended to mainly use the DA powersystem for interior work.
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/2060/Picture1b1.png
It hasn't quite been finalized yet so introduction has been delayed a bit. We determined that a bit of further testing was needed and we'd rather delay it than release a "not quite ready for prime time" product. We appreciate your patience, but we're confident it will be worth the wait.

s word
Feb 5th, 2013, 09:06 AM
It hasn't quite been finalized yet so introduction has been delayed a bit. We determined that a bit of further testing was needed and we'd rather delay it than release a "not quite ready for prime time" product. We appreciate your patience, but we're confident it will be worth the wait.

Great, looking forward to the release.

I completely understand the intended use of the pads I mentions below in my comparison. I am just trying to understand the differences between new items and existing items in the product line. And based on the difference seeing if there is anything even close to a viable substitute. I would like to do a better quicker job on interiors, I have the tool just need certain items.

What would be the difference between what looks like a terry, wool or microfiber pad in the kit vs. Meguiar's Knitted Wool Cutting Pad, W4003 - 3 inch or Meguiar's Microfiber Finishing Discs, DMF3 - 3 inch? I know neither are intended for carpet cleaning just wondering what would happen if I would use either for carpet cleaning. Would those even hook up to the powersystem backing plate? I imagine the pad in the kit pictured is thicker than these other pads too.

Same thing for the foam pad. I looks extremely porous compare to soft buff polishing pad, but what risks do I run using a polishing pad. Would that just rip up leather and leatherette?

STRIFE
Feb 5th, 2013, 12:55 PM
^ i look forward to buying these pads, but i will use with my GG3

wesleyoh
Feb 15th, 2013, 04:03 AM
Got my DA ship from the US to Singapore. and bought 2 extra polishing pads and 2 finishing pads. I applied cleaner wax with polishing pad and NXT wax with finishing pad.

It was much easy to apply than by hand. However I always have this problem. After removing NAX wax with a microfiber cloth, it seems to have excess oil on the paint. I cant wipe the excess oil away with my cloth. I suspect that it might be due to my microfiber cloth. I got it cheap and the quality might not be great.

I can see the excess oil under light. Any suggessions?

Murr1525
Feb 15th, 2013, 06:35 AM
You also may be applying wax too thick, or not letting it dry long enough.

wesleyoh
Feb 15th, 2013, 09:47 PM
I wash and clayed my car today. Then i used da with cleaner wax. Cleaner wax is very easy to remove. After that, i applied nxt wax over it and when removing the wax, i realised there are many black little dot stuck into the paint. When i wiped my cloth to remove the nxt, these little dots seems to be stuck inside the paint and making the wax oil to appear. Its hard to wipe off the excess oils.

this time i applied very little wax and i suspect that is due to these little dots. As i frequently parked my car near a factory, i suspect these little dots are metal particles. The factory cuts metals and the particles might have embedded into my car paint..

After trying so hard to completely remove nxt wax, i only applied cleaner wax to the other side of my car.

Im in Singapore and its very humid and hot over here. 30 to 35 degree celsius most of the time and i park my car in the open. Do you think by applying cleaner wax once every month has adequate protection? Or should i do it every 2 weeks?

i might use ultimate compound to remove the little metal dots but not be doing it anytime soon.

Murr1525
Feb 15th, 2013, 09:58 PM
Did the clay not remove the black dots?

wesleyoh
Feb 15th, 2013, 10:51 PM
Nope the clay did not remove the little dots. Not too sure how far the metal stuck into the paint.. It can only be see if you really look closely under sun. If not it is alomost invincible but the paint surface is not too smooth.

so could i do with cleaner wax every month?


another question. What happen if i heat my nxt wax to liquid and cool it again. Can i still use it?

Murr1525
Feb 15th, 2013, 11:05 PM
1. Well if the black dots appear to be some sort of rust/fall out... something like the IronX product may be good to try. TRIX also is possible, though I didnt like it quite as much.

2. You can certainly Cleaner/Wax every month, no harm there.

3. What? Why? Did you buy the Nxt 2.0 paste?

wesleyoh
Feb 15th, 2013, 11:39 PM
Will cleaner wax once a month be enough or shd i do once every 2 weeks.

my nxt paste was bought 2 years ago when i was still using hand to apply. My nxt wax left a very small amount on the side. So i melted it to make it even in the container. Can i still use it ? Its hard now and flat in the container.

Murr1525
Feb 16th, 2013, 12:39 PM
People do warm the paste wax once in a while to fix cracks in it... even though there is nothing wrong with there being cracks in it. So yeah, I'm sure it is still fine.

Once a month is likely ok.. but you will have to try it and see.

wesleyoh
Feb 18th, 2013, 02:45 AM
after closer examination and doing some research online. it seems to be iron particles embedded into my car paint. </SPAN>
Ironx is not sold here in Singapore. Guess I will need to ship it from the US again and wait for 3 weeks for delivery. :(</SPAN></SPAN></SPAN>

wesleyoh
Feb 19th, 2013, 08:08 PM
now i know the problem lies with my cloth... it does not have any absorbing abilities at all. When I used UQD, the cloth just pushes the detailer liquid away. I can still see liquid streaks after rubbing my cloth many many times.

When I use the same low quality cloth with UP (with a DA), the excess residue cannot be easily remove. It took me so much effort and even with a DA, I only manage to do 1 door within 3 hours.

The same thing happen when I wax my car with NXT 2.0 The excess wax cannot be easily remove and seems to have lots of excess oil on my car paint.

Yesterday, I went to purchase 3M detailing cloth and it works wonders. I could detail the whole car with 2 3M cloths so easily. Previously, I had to keep changing the low quality cloth and used 10 in total just to detail my car.

I tried waxing and polishing with the new 3M cloth and it was so easy!!!. Should be able to polish and wax my whole car tonight.

The type of cloth really make a different.!!!

SpoolMe
Feb 19th, 2013, 09:35 PM
now i know the problem lies with my cloth... it does not have any absorbing abilities at all. When I used UQD, the cloth just pushes the detailer liquid away. I can still see liquid streaks after rubbing my cloth many many times.

When I use the same low quality cloth with UP (with a DA), the excess residue cannot be easily remove. It took me so much effort and even with a DA, I only manage to do 1 door within 3 hours.

The same thing happen when I wax my car with NXT 2.0 The excess wax cannot be easily remove and seems to have lots of excess oil on my car paint.

Yesterday, I went to purchase 3M detailing cloth and it works wonders. I could detail the whole car with 2 3M cloths so easily. Previously, I had to keep changing the low quality cloth and used 10 in total just to detail my car.

I tried waxing and polishing with the new 3M cloth and it was so easy!!!. Should be able to polish and wax my whole car tonight.

The type of cloth really make a different.!!!


MF towels in general have been bugging me lately... they just push the water around :/

I used more than 70 towels to detail my car yesterday. Where did you get the 3m towels?

davey g-force
Feb 19th, 2013, 09:40 PM
I used more than 70 towels to detail my car yesterday.

yikes There's something seriously not right there...

wesleyoh
Feb 20th, 2013, 03:28 AM
im from Singapore by the way :) Not too sure for your country..

Murr1525
Feb 20th, 2013, 06:32 AM
yikes There's something seriously not right there...

Seriously...

Detailing by M
Feb 20th, 2013, 10:48 AM
now i know the problem lies with my cloth... it does not have any absorbing abilities at all. When I used UQD, the cloth just pushes the detailer liquid away. I can still see liquid streaks after rubbing my cloth many many times.

When I use the same low quality cloth with UP (with a DA), the excess residue cannot be easily remove. It took me so much effort and even with a DA, I only manage to do 1 door within 3 hours.

The same thing happen when I wax my car with NXT 2.0 The excess wax cannot be easily remove and seems to have lots of excess oil on my car paint.

Yesterday, I went to purchase 3M detailing cloth and it works wonders. I could detail the whole car with 2 3M cloths so easily. Previously, I had to keep changing the low quality cloth and used 10 in total just to detail my car.

I tried waxing and polishing with the new 3M cloth and it was so easy!!!. Should be able to polish and wax my whole car tonight.

The type of cloth really make a different.!!!

WTMF?


yikes There's something seriously not right there...


Seriously...

^^ I concur

LarryRX350
Mar 5th, 2013, 08:11 PM
In order to remove light swirls and light scratches, should I apply SwirlX, followed by Ultimate Polish, or just use Ultimate Polish? For SwirlX, would I use the red pad and use the yellow pad for the Ultimate Polish? Also, am I correct in assuming that my cordless drill would likely die before I could do these steps and the wax step?

Murr1525
Mar 5th, 2013, 08:20 PM
Removing swirls will take more pressure than just waxing, and so will make the motor work harder, drain the battery faster. Maybe if you were just trying a panel or so a day on softer paint. Although waxing by hand is pretty easy, it is the swirl removal that is the hardest work by hand.

I would just have UC and UP on the shelf. You can do a test spot with UP, and if not, a test spot with UC on the polishing pad. Then UC on the cutting pad if still nothing.

The UC on a cutting pad seemed pretty easy to use, and not too strong when I tried it out, but nothing wrong with starting milder to be sure/safe.

LarryRX350
Mar 8th, 2013, 08:56 PM
I just got a super deal from Advance Auto Parts (on line) for the DA Power System plus the Polishing Pads set along with three other Meguiar products The order totaled $107.25 before a discount of $40 plus free shipping. The actual total with tax was $70.30. The promo code I used was TRT41 and I had to speak to a customer service rep to get the order through because one item apparently did not qualify for this promo discount. Anyway, I think this is a pretty good deal for anyone thinking about buying a DA Power System. Good luck to all!

kiwiatlarge
Mar 15th, 2013, 02:31 PM
Anyone tried Swirl-X on either the cutting or polishing disc?... If these products ever make it here, I might try it (least aggressive approach n all...) as I have a fairly full bottle I don't use any more since getting Ultimate Polish..

Murr1525
Mar 15th, 2013, 03:56 PM
I have not, but no reason no to.

KidDetailer
Mar 17th, 2013, 10:00 PM
How is this cheap drill? Will it do ?

http://www.ktonic.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1433911

Detailing by M
Mar 17th, 2013, 11:32 PM
That drill will be fine. Really don't need a Dewalt, realy any corded drill is fine.

kiwiatlarge
Mar 29th, 2013, 01:27 PM
The NZ Meguiars retailer finally has them.. :)

around 125 for the attachment and a polishing pad, and 33 for each of the dual pad kits..

kiwiatlarge
Apr 3rd, 2013, 10:37 PM
Well, my complete package came tonight... Didn't really want to attempt any major work in the limited hours left in the day, but curiosity got the better of me, so I cleaned up the spoiler of one of my cars and gave all 3 pads a go.

Certainly looks better, but I think there is room for a lot of improvement... I think I just need to get used to this whole 'concept' of defect removal, and getting the right pressure and speed with the burgundy pad and UC..

I can definitely see it being a winner for applying the Polish and Wax..

Murr1525
Apr 4th, 2013, 05:21 AM
Just have to work a smaller area, go a bit slower probably.

kiwiatlarge
Apr 12th, 2013, 08:00 PM
Have now spent a few more hours with this attachment on my Daily Driver.... Half of the car is now done (taking my time, as I'm trying to make some improvement with each panel) ... The correction aspect is still learning in progress, but still much easier on the body than attempting by hand... but the polishing and waxing... Wow, for the price, I can't recommend it enough to all the amateur detailers out there doing their own cars by hand..

I've run UC/UP/ULW and the bonnet and front two corners, and UC/NXT2.0 on the rest of one side of the car... I think I'll start using NXT again on my DD now, and just use the UP and ULW on the V8... Scottwax4

KidDetailer
Apr 18th, 2013, 10:59 PM
If i were to use Deep Crystal Pure Polish with the DA system, which pad would I use?

davey g-force
Apr 21st, 2013, 02:09 PM
^^ I'd say you'd want the black finishing pad for that.

KidDetailer
Apr 21st, 2013, 05:03 PM
So I'm assuming the

Red pad is for moderate/severe paint cleaning such as Ultimate Compound, Scratch X
yellow pad is for light paint cleaning such as Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, Swirl X, Ultimate Polish

Or is yellow pad only really designed for Ultimate Polish?

Anything that doesn't correct paint such as Pure Polish or the Waxes (except cleaner waxes) would be Black pad?

Murr1525
Apr 21st, 2013, 05:25 PM
That is more or less correct... some things are just by feel/experience, but that would be the idea.

With a DA Polisher, you don't want the red pad as much, but it can be used more often with the Power System.

kiwiatlarge
Apr 21st, 2013, 06:53 PM
Following on from that, I'm assuming the yellow would be best for most AIO applications, assuming anyone using one would be at the least intending a light clean of the paint.

Murr1525
Apr 21st, 2013, 07:20 PM
Yeah, most likely.

KidDetailer
Apr 22nd, 2013, 02:27 AM
So Cleaner Wax would go with the yellow pad because of its cleaning ability as well as polish and wax.

Is the Meguiars Hand applicator pad MEG W0004 the same cut as the yellow pad of the DA system?

Based on my understanding, most if not all of my jobs usually would just use the Yellow even for cleaning. Its safer to start on the yellow for scratch X, then try the Red if the yellow isn't working.

Murr1525
Apr 22nd, 2013, 05:48 AM
1. Well, it is kind of a generalization. But yeah, trying to get the best out of all 3. I am sure there are cases where the others may work better, but just as a starting point.

2. No, different foam, so I doubt it. And working by hand changes things a lot anyway.

3. You can, though don't want to go 'overkill' with the mildest methods first. I'd probably pick UC over the ScratchX. And the UC + red pad didn't seem overly strong on the Power System. But can always try a spot with yellow first.

s word
Apr 22nd, 2013, 07:46 AM
1. Well, it is kind of a generalization. But yeah, trying to get the best out of all 3. I am sure there are cases where the others may work better, but just as a starting point.

2. No, different foam, so I doubt it. And working by hand changes things a lot anyway.

3. You can, though don't want to go 'overkill' with the mildest methods first. I'd probably pick UC over the ScratchX. And the UC + red pad didn't seem overly strong on the Power System. But can always try a spot with yellow first.

I use the Power System regularly on my VW for hard to get spots/piano black trim. Red definitely can be used with UC without being overly harsh. Yellow pads in my experience have minimal cut. Red may be sometimes considered harsh when working with G110v2 and 7" pads but with powersystem it is not.
Usually I use M105 or M101 with powersystem red pads and sometimes think even that combo is not aggressive enough.

foilr
May 22nd, 2013, 07:03 PM
Will the 3" DAMF DCM3 work with the DAPS? I have a car with some scratches that aren't coming out after several passes with UC and a Burgundy Pad. I read another thread where Mike Stoops reference the DAMF system as a step up in aggressiveness using it with a G110. These scratches aren't really deep and don't catch your nail but they are unsightly.

s word
May 23rd, 2013, 12:20 PM
Will the 3" DAMF DCM3 work with the DAPS? I have a car with some scratches that aren't coming out after several passes with UC and a Burgundy Pad. I read another thread where Mike Stoops reference the DAMF system as a step up in aggressiveness using it with a G110. These scratches aren't really deep and don't catch your nail but they are unsightly.

Wow good question. I think they will fit because of the hook and loop configuration of both pads being used.
The results you will get may differ because the motion of the DAPS is not the exact same as a DA but I bet you would achieve greater cut than burgundy pad either way.
Also you could look into increasing the product cut to something like M105 or M101.

And now when I get home I know exactly the process I am going to try to clean up my piano black finish that is always a nightmare.

randyloope
May 29th, 2013, 06:05 AM
I used the DA power system three days ago. I drive a Black Tahoe, and the paint was in pretty bad shape because of swirling. I used the tool to put a coat of Meguiar's polish to fight the swirling. Next a did a coat of the new black wax followed by a coat of UW. I must say this car looks slick. However, one of my favorite features to detailing is making the tires shine, especially on a black care. I have always used Meguiar's Hot Shine Tire Coating, and the tires come out looking fantastic. I just bought this Tahoe a couple of months back, and the last two times I applied the spray to the tires it seems that splatters are thrown on the paint of the vehicle the next day after I drive it. I can tell it is from the tires because the wheel wells are covered in it. I only make one pass over the tires when applying. Should I use a different product? Or use a pad and make a pass over the tire? \

Thanks!

Murr1525
May 29th, 2013, 07:00 AM
You can take an older terry cloth and blot/wipe the tire to try to take off some excess product.

LongHoang
May 29th, 2013, 10:15 PM
Hi everyone,

New to this forum and I just wanted to say that this looks like a great community. I am not new to detailing but am always learning. I have a question about the DA Power System. I recently bought one and used the red cutting pad with Ultimate Compound on a corded drill rated at 4.1 Amps. I found that the system worked great on my black Honda Prelude in increasing the paint's overall clarity and removing oxidation but had almost no effect at all on the swirl marks. I followed the directions, working the compound in a small area. I also followed the work area up with Ultimate Polish using the yellow pad and then finally with Ultimate Wax. I'm confused as to why the swirl marks are still there. Am I doing something wrong? Do I just need a more powerful drill? More pressure? Any input would help greatly. Thank you.

Murr1525
May 30th, 2013, 05:25 AM
The first guess would be pressure and speed. Faster speed for the drill, slower speed for your arms.

LongHoang
May 30th, 2013, 10:29 AM
The first guess would be pressure and speed. Faster speed for the drill, slower speed for your arms.

I'm using the drill at max speed, and I tried playing with various pressure levels and still no luck. Is there a minimum power rating that the drill must be? I'm thinking mine might be too weak for the job. Thanks for the reply.

Nick Winn
May 30th, 2013, 11:05 AM
What speed is your drill? 1800 - 2500 rpm's is recommended for max speed.

LongHoang
May 30th, 2013, 07:05 PM
I can't find the speed rating anywhere on it, and I lost the box years ago. It just says 4.1 Amps.

Nick Winn
May 31st, 2013, 06:54 AM
What manufacturer and model is it? I would imagine you can find the specifications on-line.

JG_Detailing
Jun 19th, 2013, 02:18 PM
Can this system be used with a 1500 cordless power drill. I bought a Dewalt and was gonna use it with the DA power system for waxing and polishing.

Michael Stoops
Jun 19th, 2013, 02:20 PM
A good cordless drill is fine for applying wax, but for the heavier work needed, and time involved in defect removal, there are very, very few cordless drills up to the task. Go corded and you'll be a lot happier.

davey g-force
Jun 19th, 2013, 03:03 PM
I have read reviews where people have tried it with a cordless drill.

Reports are it's good for applying wax, and even surprisingly good for some defect removal.

Detailing by M
Jun 19th, 2013, 04:23 PM
Where/when can I get the pads for this?

Pep boys? I checked and seen the DAP there but didn't really notice if they had the separate pads.
You can get them on line or check your local Detail Shop. Mine, Detailing.com has them.

As far as the DAP goes, it's awesome! I used it the other night at Meg's.
It works great, not awkward and I could totally detail anything with this little monster!
So for 60 bucks this thing rocks!!!!

97fordtuff
Jun 20th, 2013, 01:46 AM
Do you need to use a corded drill or can you use a cordless?

Michael Stoops
Jun 20th, 2013, 06:49 AM
Do you need to use a corded drill or can you use a cordless?


A good cordless drill is fine for applying wax, but for the heavier work needed, and time involved in defect removal, there are very, very few cordless drills up to the task. Go corded and you'll be a lot happier.


I have read reviews where people have tried it with a cordless drill.

Reports are it's good for applying wax, and even surprisingly good for some defect removal.

By the way, welcome to MOL!

OzPapaSmurf
Jun 22nd, 2013, 05:32 AM
I can't wait for these to become available in Australia. I was told that we are supposed to get them in July? this year I hope.

MyFirstES300
Jun 23rd, 2013, 08:10 PM
Just curious...Makita makes a cordless drill capable of up to 2,000RPM. Would this work for some defect removal? I know an electrical one is the way to go with this system, but I was wondering if anyone knew or used the Makita LXFD03Z drill for the DA system. My Dad has this drill... thanks!

Detailing by M
Jun 23rd, 2013, 08:17 PM
Just curious...Makita makes a cordless drill capable of up to 2,000RPM. Would this work for some defect removal? I know an electrical one is the way to go with this system, but I was wondering if anyone knew or used the Makita LXFD03Z drill for the DA system. My Dad has this drill... thanks!

Meguiar's recommended a drill with at least 2500 rpm for the DA to work properly.
Remember the actual dual action part slows down the RPM. so the most powerful drill you have will do the best job for you.
but I don't want to discourage you. Give it a try, see what happens. You might have to work it longer to achieve the results you want.

Murr1525
Jun 23rd, 2013, 08:29 PM
Speed isn't everything.... but depending on what you work on, you may or may not need much power. Esp if just polishing and waxing.

JOCKTHEGLIDE
Oct 13th, 2013, 11:18 PM
Long time member, but hardly post since I get so much info from reading here, but I was able to use a machine for the first time using the meguiars products and I was super shocked how great my rubbing compount, polish, and wax job came out. I have always applied the products by hand and was satisified since I was not trying to win shows, but now im a tad older i decided to use a machine and the DA power system shortened my wax time and work load. I used to apply compound, polish, and wax and take me roughly 8 hours all by hand and my whole arm be tired, but now the DA system cut it in half and im not tired at all AND NOT only that it improved my wax job vs hand. Love the meguiar stuff....INCREDIBLE.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/shift4knights/lowered3_zps0b94e926.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/shift4knights/media/lowered3_zps0b94e926.jpg.html)

davey g-force
Oct 14th, 2013, 12:13 PM
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/shift4knights/lowered3_zps0b94e926.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/shift4knights/media/lowered3_zps0b94e926.jpg.html)

^^ :drool1

Michael Stoops
Oct 14th, 2013, 12:51 PM
Love the meguiar stuff....INCREDIBLE.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/shift4knights/lowered3_zps0b94e926.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/shift4knights/media/lowered3_zps0b94e926.jpg.html)
"Incredible" describes the car quite well, too! That Charger is gorgeous!

kiwiatlarge
Nov 30th, 2013, 08:40 PM
Just an extra thumbsup from today for this system from me, a regular car owner, who doesn't detail cars for a living.... I've always been a fan of UC, UP and ULW by hand (even if it should be said my hand my UC applications have always been more for extra strength cleaning and polishing than defect removal... aside from the odd bird poop or scratch, which it has been effective on by hand) ... and I've been a fan of this D/A system and how much it speeds up my application of Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Liquid Wax ever since I bought it..

Well, today I had my first decent attempt at taking my time on a panel and trying to remove some decent defects... Long story short, last weekend my dog was tied up at home while we were out on a car run, and managed to put some pretty decent scratches up one side of my daily driver (in my avatar) .... I didn't even spot them until I left for work on Monday morning... well, when I got to work I grabbed my car kit out of the back, spray detailed some of the scratched areas, and tested some Scratch-X by hand, just to see what I was in for... Some of them were pretty deep, but I was hopeful I could at least soften most of them.

So today, one weekend later, I give my car a wash and dry, and try out UC using the burgundy pad slowly on two of the panels... To my suprise I've removed all but the worst of it, and even the worst of it is softened that much, that you will only notice it up close.. given that it is a daily driver which will soon be moving to gravel roads, and has stone chips all over the bonnet, an application of UP and NXT2 later, I'm happy with that...

greymda
Apr 6th, 2014, 03:47 AM
we don't have Meguiar's locally so when i'll need a refill of my pads - can i go for Lake Country 4 inch pads?

Rhnos
Jun 1st, 2016, 10:52 PM
i just bought the DA Power System.

now i need the pads and the compound, polish and wax.

what is the size of the solution (compound, polish or wax) which is in the powerpack?

i have a hatchback, will this be enough to do the whole car or should i buy the solution and the pads separately because i can see that the size of the solution is around 500ml when on its own.

please help!

thanks

Rhnos
Jul 5th, 2016, 06:52 AM
is it mandatory to use the red pad for compound, the yellow pad for polishing and the black pad for waxing?

or can i use any power pads at random?

thanks

Nick Winn
Jul 5th, 2016, 09:20 AM
is it mandatory to use the red pad for compound, the yellow pad for polishing and the black pad for waxing?

or can i use any power pads at random?

thanks

It is not mandatory but we would not recommend using any product which does not contain abrasives or cleaning ability with the red compounding pad.

Mr. Slick
Jul 5th, 2016, 01:27 PM
Can you use this to correct headlights? What are the steps? maroon with Pastic compound, then yellow with plastic polish? what if you use a foam interface pad and start with wet sanding headlights?

Nick Winn
Jul 5th, 2016, 02:22 PM
Can you use this to correct headlights? What are the steps? maroon with Pastic compound, then yellow with plastic polish? what if you use a foam interface pad and start with wet sanding headlights?

In regards to headlight restoration, if you are sanding the headlight, typically a rotary is needed to remove the sanding marks, like a drill or rotary polisher tool. If you are not sanding, and just are trying to remove light oxidation, using the DA Power System with some PlastX on either the polishing or compounding pad would have the ability to remove the light oxidation. We do not approve or recommend this tool for sanding, but we do approve it for use as the first step in our G2000 Perfect Clarity Headlight Restoration Kit.

Rhnos
Jul 5th, 2016, 10:02 PM
It is not mandatory but we would not recommend using any product which does not contain abrasives or cleaning ability with the red compounding pad.

thanks for your reply

i have three yellow power pads ..

can i use yellow to compound and another yellow to wax?

products to be used are the ultimate compound ultimate polish and ultimate wax.

thanks

Nick Winn
Jul 6th, 2016, 06:30 AM
thanks for your reply

i have three yellow power pads ..

can i use yellow to compound and another yellow to wax?

products to be used are the ultimate compound ultimate polish and ultimate wax.

thanks

Yes you can use a yellow pad for either the Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, or Ultimate Wax, if needed. Keep in mind if more defect removal is needed, the red compounding pad would be recommended with Ultimate Compound. Ultimate Polish is typically used with the yellow polishing pad. In regards to using a yellow polishing pad for applying Ultimate Wax this is OK, not ideal, but OK to do. Just remember when applying the wax you can move pretty quickly. We typically just do two 50% overlapping passes, one vertical, one horizontal, with light to moderate pressure, and then move to next section.

Rhnos
Jul 6th, 2016, 11:21 PM
Yes you can use a yellow pad for either the Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, or Ultimate Wax, if needed. Keep in mind if more defect removal is needed, the red compounding pad would be recommended with Ultimate Compound. Ultimate Polish is typically used with the yellow polishing pad. In regards to using a yellow polishing pad for applying Ultimate Wax this is OK, not ideal, but OK to do. Just remember when applying the wax you can move pretty quickly. We typically just do two 50% overlapping passes, one vertical, one horizontal, with light to moderate pressure, and then move to next section.

many thanks for the precious advice.

after applying the compound, the polish and the wax, which product do you recommend next?

should i give paint protect a try? or should i simply wash my car and apply quick detailer afterwards.

The Guz
Jul 7th, 2016, 09:34 AM
many thanks for the precious advice.

after applying the compound, the polish and the wax, which product do you recommend next?


Some sort of protection would be what you want after doing some sort of paint correction. You can go with a carnauba wax or a sealant if you want something more durable and longer lasting (NXT, Ultimate Wax, M21, Paint Protect). It's personal preference.

Rhnos
Jul 10th, 2016, 09:56 PM
Some sort of protection would be what you want after doing some sort of paint correction. You can go with a carnauba wax or a sealant if you want something more durable and longer lasting (NXT, Ultimate Wax, M21, Paint Protect). It's personal preference.

thanks for the tip.

do you mean i should use either ultimate wax or paint protect after applying the ultimate compound and polish? or should i use the paint protect after applying the ultimate wax?

thanks

gulluwing
Sep 5th, 2016, 01:03 PM
I read some post, and you say it's better to use a drill that spins at 1800-2500 rpm but I would like to know which is the best average speed to be used to avoid overheating of the paint and cause damage

gulluwing
Sep 7th, 2016, 02:29 AM
No answers for my question?

Nick Winn
Sep 7th, 2016, 06:07 AM
thanks for the tip.

do you mean i should use either ultimate wax or paint protect after applying the ultimate compound and polish? or should i use the paint protect after applying the ultimate wax?

thanks

Hi Rhnos,

Either Ultimate Wax or Paint Protect after Ultimate Polish. You would not need to do both Ultimate Wax & Paint Protect, just one of the other.

Nick Winn
Sep 7th, 2016, 06:19 AM
I read some post, and you say it's better to use a drill that spins at 1800-2500 rpm but I would like to know which is the best average speed to be used to avoid overheating of the paint and cause damage


No answers for my question?

Hi gulluwing,

We recommend using a drill with this 1800 - 2500 RPM range mainly because there is a reduction in the DA Power System Drill Attachment itself. You want to "counter act" for that reduction by having a higher speed drill in this range, especially when using the DA Power System for compounding. It should be noted that the attachment converts the rotary drill into a forced rotation oscillating DA, and you will not be spinning at these high RPMS because of the reduction in the attachment, so you really don't have to worry about excess heat build up or damage, provide you use good technique : )

Hope this helps

- Nick

gulluwing
Sep 7th, 2016, 11:23 AM
Hi gulluwing,

We recommend using a drill with this 1800 - 2500 RPM range mainly because there is a reduction in the DA Power System Drill Attachment itself. You want to "counter act" for that reduction by having a higher speed drill in this range, especially when using the DA Power System for compounding. It should be noted that the attachment converts the rotary drill into a forced rotation oscillating DA, and you will not be spinning at these high RPMS because of the reduction in the attachment, so you really don't have to worry about excess heat build up or damage, provide you use good technique : )

Hope this helps

- Nick

This helps, thanks a lot and best regards

Rhnos
Jan 4th, 2017, 10:52 PM
claying done, compound done, polishing done.
today im going to wax

btw the power pads?

how to clean them?

thanks

Nick Winn
Jan 5th, 2017, 08:23 AM
claying done, compound done, polishing done.
today im going to wax

btw the power pads?

how to clean them?

thanks

Hey Rhnos,

Happy to hear you are enjoying our DA Power System. To clean the power pads, we recommend washing them in a regular household washing machine, with regular laundry detergent, along with your microfiber towels. They can also be dried in a household dryer machine on low heat. Just don't wash microfiber & cotton terry cloth towels together, because the lint from the terry cloth cotton will stick to the microfibers and make a mess.

Shootist
Apr 29th, 2017, 07:50 AM
So, even though I have a PC 7424, DAMF system, etc., the DA Power System has intrigued me for working on small areas. When I saw it on clearance at Wally World for $20 I bought it. Also got (2) additional polishing pads for $5!
I've used it a few times with M105 & M205. Need to get the red pads for correction. Although the polishing pads worked, I had to make multiple passes.
However, assuming one is experienced with both DA and Rotary use, why not just use a 3" backing plate and the pads instead of the "system"?

davey g-force
Apr 30th, 2017, 01:03 PM
So, even though I have a PC 7424, DAMF system, etc., the DA Power System has intrigued me for working on small areas. When I saw it on clearance at Wally World for $20 I bought it. Also got (2) additional polishing pads for $5!
I've used it a few times with M105 & M205. Need to get the red pads for correction. Although the polishing pads worked, I had to make multiple passes.
However, assuming one is experienced with both DA and Rotary use, why not just use a 3" backing plate and the pads instead of the "system"?

I think you're right. If you already have a DA or rotary, you'd just use one of those with a 3" pad for working on small areas.

The DAPS is more for beginners, those on a budget or those who are apprehensive about using a polisher.

EyesWideShut
Jan 11th, 2018, 10:09 AM
I'm new to the DA Power System and intend to buy a good cordless drill to go with it (either a Dewalt or Stanley model, with 18V and max 1800 - 2000 rpm).

I have seen reviews talking about the right speed settings (for cordless drills they should go as high as possible since they will hardly be more powerful than corded ones), but interestingly I have not come across discussion about torque settings before.

I am rather new to power tools as well, and therefore I would like to ask whether torque settings are a concern when using the DA Power System? And if so, what should roughly be their settings for the 18V tool mentioned above?

Thanks!!

Nick Winn
Jan 11th, 2018, 01:59 PM
I'm new to the DA Power System and intend to buy a good cordless drill to go with it (either a Dewalt or Stanley model, with 18V and max 1800 - 2000 rpm).

I have seen reviews talking about the right speed settings (for cordless drills they should go as high as possible since they will hardly be more powerful than corded ones), but interestingly I have not come across discussion about torque settings before.

I am rather new to power tools as well, and therefore I would like to ask whether torque settings are a concern when using the DA Power System? And if so, what should roughly be their settings for the 18V tool mentioned above?

Thanks!!

We recommend using a corded drill, ideally with a max speed of 2500 RPMs. There is a reduction in the attachment, so in order to counter - act that reduction, you want to have a max speed of around 2500 rpms, especially for when using a compound. We recommend max 2800 rpms.

Rhnos
Jan 11th, 2018, 10:02 PM
is there a recommended speed for compounding, polishing and waxing?

thanks

EyesWideShut
Jan 12th, 2018, 08:21 AM
We recommend using a corded drill, ideally with a max speed of 2500 RPMs. There is a reduction in the attachment, so in order to counter - act that reduction, you want to have a max speed of around 2500 rpms, especially for when using a compound. We recommend max 2800 rpms.

Hi Nick, I am aware that it is best to use a corded drill. However, due to constraints in the country I live in (we live in apartments here and we do not have access to power sources in our carparks), I have no choice but to use a cordless drill. I have read reviews that a good 18V cordless drill can give reasonable results, though it may somewhat pale in comparison to a corded drill.

To go back to my original question, are you aware whether torque settings are a concern when using a cordless drill for the DA Power System, and if they are, what are the recommended settings?

Thanks in advance !

Nick Winn
Jan 12th, 2018, 11:15 AM
Hi Nick, I am aware that it is best to use a corded drill. However, due to constraints in the country I live in (we live in apartments here and we do not have access to power sources in our carparks), I have no choice but to use a cordless drill. I have read reviews that a good 18V cordless drill can give reasonable results, though it may somewhat pale in comparison to a corded drill.

To go back to my original question, are you aware whether torque settings are a concern when using a cordless drill for the DA Power System, and if they are, what are the recommended settings?

Thanks in advance !

We do not have any torque recommendations when it comes to choice of power drill. I do not believe it will take much torque for good performance with our DA Power System, even with moderate pressure while using a compound, it should not take much torque to keep pad spinning.

EyesWideShut
Jan 12th, 2018, 03:16 PM
We do not have any torque recommendations when it comes to choice of power drill. I do not believe it will take much torque for good performance with our DA Power System, even with moderate pressure while using a compound, it should not take much torque to keep pad spinning.

Thanks for the prompt reply, Nick. That is what I believe too, as using the drill for detailing is quite different from, say hammering a nail into the wall. I do think that for the purpose of using the DA system, RPM is a more important consideration rather than torque/power. In that regard, would a 14V 2000rpm drill be actually more suitable than a 18V 1500rpm drill (the former has a higher RPM, albeit a lower battery voltage and consequently less torque) ?

Nick Winn
Jan 15th, 2018, 12:50 PM
Thanks for the prompt reply, Nick. That is what I believe too, as using the drill for detailing is quite different from, say hammering a nail into the wall. I do think that for the purpose of using the DA system, RPM is a more important consideration rather than torque/power. In that regard, would a 14V 2000rpm drill be actually more suitable than a 18V 1500rpm drill (the former has a higher RPM, albeit a lower battery voltage and consequently less torque) ?

Hi, yes, if you have to go cordless, we would recommend the one with the higher RPM. Remember below is the recommended RPM range:


We recommend using a corded drill, ideally with a max speed of 2500 RPMs. There is a reduction in the attachment, so in order to counter - act that reduction, you want to have a max speed of around 2500 rpms, especially for when using a compound. We recommend max 2800 rpms.