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Covered car with plastic sheet --> stained my paint

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  • #16
    Originally posted by jayelleseven

    UPDATE: My G is currently being washed, waxed/buffed.. That stuff came off the bumper at least..

    I think the guy is pretty skilled, Cross your Fingers_
    As long as he's avoiding wool pads for any finishing steps and using quality pads and chemicals you should be okay. For what you're paying him you could have invested in a dual action polisher, a few pads and some cleaner/polishes and probably done as good of a job of better plus still have all of your investment for future detailing sessions.

    Just to comment on the problem, it looks like something stained into the paint thus the repair will mean removing a little paint. As long as the stain didn't permeate too deeply into the clear coat a little polishing work should take care of the problem or get it so close it will be hard to see and you'll be able to live with it versus paying for a paint job.

    Good luck and update us on how it turns out...

    (Fingers are crossed)
    Mike Phillips
    760-515-0444
    showcargarage@gmail.com

    "Find something you like and use it often"

    Comment


    • #17
      That's a REALLY odd problem. I once had moisture penetrate my paint. I was using a bra on the front of my car during the winter. Melted snow became trapped between the bra and the paint. Eventually, the water seeped into the paint. It basically caused the paint to fog. Luckily, the instructions for the bra contained a solution.

      The fix was REALLY easy. All I had to do was use a hair dryer to heat the paint. As I heated the paint I could see the moisture evaporating out of the paint.

      Overall, just NOT a good idea to cover a wet car with a substance that doesn't breath like plastic or a vinyl bra.

      Comment


      • #18
        must be content

        thanks for all the advice guys, well i had my fingers pretty well crossed and im rather content with the results.. Even in bright light or sunlight, its much harder to see now and at some angles, virtually undetectable:





        The trained eye or an unfortunate (for me) angle will notice/reveal the imperfection though:



        For what the detailing cost in comparison to paint shop/body work I must be satisfied. NOTHING else was working.. ahhh I will take it to a fully professional shop/individual jus to see what they have to say. As of right now I must live with this, if I am to have any $ in my pockets after this harsh lesson learned...

        Im open to any other input and advice, thanks guys_

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Mikeyc
          That's a REALLY odd problem. I once had moisture penetrate my paint. I was using a bra on the front of my car during the winter. Melted snow became trapped between the bra and the paint. Eventually, the water seeped into the paint. It basically caused the paint to fog. Luckily, the instructions for the bra contained a solution.

          The fix was REALLY easy. All I had to do was use a hair dryer to heat the paint. As I heated the paint I could see the moisture evaporating out of the paint.

          Overall, just NOT a good idea to cover a wet car with a substance that doesn't breath like plastic or a vinyl bra.
          And i wish this would have been moisture, almost certain it was plastic fused into the paint, deeply, perhaps past the clearcoat, some came off tho with the buffing including the purple-ish stain...

          Comment


          • #20
            sorry to hear about the unfortunate incident ......i know how you feel about having your ride not at 100%...it stinks to have a little scratch,ding or paint imperfection on your car , making you feel not so good about your car......but things happen and you always seem to learn a valuble lesson when it hits hard in the pocket....i had taken my car to a detail last summer and a kid on a bike put two small dings and a little scratch on my car...unfortunately for me the family is flat broke and they have no money to pay me , so i had to have it fixed because it bothered me so much..........i bet me and you wont make those mistakes again..
            RZ AutoDetailing

            My Gallery

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            • #21
              What exactly was done by your detailer as an attempt to correct the problems?

              Also, can you FEEL this imperfection at all, or is it just visible?
              See the big picture, enjoy the details

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Pete-FWA
                What exactly was done by your detailer as an attempt to correct the problems?

                Also, can you FEEL this imperfection at all, or is it just visible?
                The car was thoroughly washed (havent seen it cleaner since purchase date), buffed with focus on effected areas, waxed n clay bar stripped, etc.. so mainly buff and wax, simple yet rather effective (he also tried wiping it off with other unknown mixes at first), only in direct light at an angle it can be seen.. I jus have 2 wait now for when the wax wears off n see how it looks/what to do
                AND i could feel it at first.. barely, I cannot anymore, so there was penetration. Now its jus visible like how i mentioned_

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                • #23
                  You live in southern California, why not sign up for one of the Wednesday night open garage events????
                  Arizona Corvette Enthusiasts
                  08 Atomic Orange Metallic C6 LS3 Z51 4LT
                  98 Torch Red Convertible * SOLD
                  82 Collector Edition * SOLD

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                  • #24
                    Ahh i was waiting, to see how the paint would look after a bit. And now I have questions, about the buffing, what I did, and pretty much, I think I 'over did it' IN THAT, my paint reflects the sunlight in an odd way, havent seen it b4, and it really does Not look like buff marks cuz when you move the reflection moves, im thinkin.. the clearcoat got worn down too much after the wax, rubbing compound, alcohol, buffing, clay bar-ing, re wax.. I mean how Should it look? I know INFINITI paint isnt the best but im concerned.. I need to show some ppl, ill try 2 get pictures up_

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      i got this from 6mt.net:

                      how do they sound?

                      Buy some fine cut cleaner with a medium cut cleaner (Maguiars since you visted the site). Mix both products together 50/50 onto a terry cloth towel. Then wipe side to side (left-right) then up/down. Buff product off with a clean terry cloth and do again. Should take you about 3-4 tries per qt panel (about 10 mins). Once you don't see it anymore. Time to apply some polish then some wax to seal. And your done! By first waxing it, that's when you made this a bigger problem then it really was. You sealed the film onto your paint/clear coat.

                      thanks for any help_

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Wow.

                        Its almost like, perhaps a photograph or a negative atleast is/was on your car.
                        Like, the plastic covering the paint served as a lens for the sunlight and made a negative image in the paint.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          You might want to look into finish kare's decomtamination system. I heard their products in the system smell harsh but it's safe for the paint, trim n all that and says it will remove industrial fallout, corrosive compounds, oxidation, wrap guard adhesive and acid rain and tar. Keep in mind I've never used it before, just a thought. And hey Tim or Mike, on the label for safe d greaser is says it can be used for wax removal as long as it's diluted 20:1, could that maybe work if aggitated with a wash mitt or was that just meant for spray on and rinse?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by F-150
                            And hey Tim or Mike, on the label for safe d greaser is says it can be used for wax removal as long as it's diluted 20:1, could that maybe work if aggitated with a wash mitt or was that just meant for spray on and rinse?
                            Hey F150,

                            Yes, Safe D-Greaser can be diluted at 20:1 for wax removal, if so desired. It is to be sprayed on, wiped, and then rinse thoroughly! Do not allow the product to dry on the paint.

                            In this case, I do not believe that Safe D-Greaser will help the poster as I believe that the paint may have been damaged.

                            Tim
                            Tim Lingor's Product Reviews

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by jayelleseven
                              i got this from 6mt.net:

                              how do they sound?

                              Buy some fine cut cleaner with a medium cut cleaner (Maguiars since you visted the site). Mix both products together 50/50 onto a terry cloth towel. Then wipe side to side (left-right) then up/down. Buff product off with a clean terry cloth and do again. Should take you about 3-4 tries per qt panel (about 10 mins). Once you don't see it anymore. Time to apply some polish then some wax to seal. And your done! By first waxing it, that's when you made this a bigger problem then it really was. You sealed the film onto your paint/clear coat.

                              thanks for any help_
                              I would disagree for a couple of reasons.

                              First, Medium Cut Cleaner is a rotray only product. If you apply it by hand, there is a good chance that you may haze the paint bad enough that the use of a rotary buffer, and someone experienced in using it, will be needed to correct the haze and restore the gloss.

                              Second, using a mild cleaner/polish (even #9 Swirl Remover which is very mild) or ColorX will remove any wax that was applied previously. You do not need to resort to a strong compound cleaner to do that task.

                              Tim
                              Tim Lingor's Product Reviews

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                hey thanks for the info fellas.. im still tryin 2 figure out what 2 do, is "finish kare's decomtamination system" a good idea (I was a bit confused by the posts above)

                                Also, is the best way to remove buffing marks or streaks, IM NOT EVEN sure what it is, its like an odd reflection, of course it was after the buffing..! so the best way to virtually remove them is a good polish?

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