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More Rotary Shananigans!

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  • More Rotary Shananigans!

    Santa Scrap made another delivery yesterday!!! :lol:



    I have absolutely no idea what car this is from, so if anyone knows... answers on a postcard! :lol: Its red metallic, and came with the traditional swirls though...



    I wnated to try out Meguiars #83 alongside Menzerna Intensive Polish PO85RD3.01 for fun, so I masked the bonnet off into four so I could do half each and get half and half shots too...




    Menzerna Intensive Polish PO85RD3.01

    The IP was first up. Firs of all, a pic of the swilrs the IP had to deal with:



    These were medium swirls, so I thought the IP would deal easily with them on a Meguiars W8006 polishing pad. Pas was primed at 600rpm and the polish spread, then polised at 1000rpm for several passes, then up to 1200rpm with only light to medium pressure until the polish went transparent. Residue was wiped off with a Megs Ultimate Wipe. First of all, a half and half shot after the Menz:



    And a completed shot:



    I found the Menzerna very easy to use by rotary, the polish seemed perfectly lubricated and it didn't kick up dust like the traditional IP. No splatter either at the low speeds, and the polish broke down steadily - it was easy to follow the polish breaking down and working. And it removed the swilrs with ease with one hit. An excellent product, IP3.01 - highly recommended. :thumb:


    Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish

    Now, as I had already previously tested the Menzerna polishes on steel wool marks, I decided to give the worst half of the bonnet to the #83 this time, so the swirls the #83 faced:



    This was going to be an acid test for the #83 by rotary. As with the IP, the W8006 polishing pad was primed at 600rpm and the polish spread, then it was up to 1200rpm for several passes before moving up to 1500rpm for many passes until the polish went transparent... Like the IP, itr was easy to tell when the polish was ready. It broke down more slowly, working more slowly than the IP, but it got impressive results on the severe swirls - a half and half:



    and a full shot:



    Only the deeper scratches were remaining, as would be expected from a medium abbrassive polish used on a W8006 polishing pad. Again, this polish was easy to use - slower than the IP3.01, and a little more tricky to wipe off (but by no means difficult, it needed two passes of an mf towel, the IP only needed one! So neither were difficult! :lol: ) Comparing the finishes, I would say that the IP finish was brighter, the #83 one wetter looking, but only just in each case... My conclusion is that by rotary on medium swirls, both of these polishes are excellent products.

    I have read much on many forums about #83 being very difficult to use and never getting results, but I would personally say that if you are patient with it and break it down fully it works an absolute treat... The "boutique" polishes are easier to use, #83 has a learning curve, but once mastered, #83 is a match for anything IMO and at a fraction of the cost!

    "A thing of beauty is a joy for ever: Its loveliness increases; it will never pass into nothingness; .... "

  • #2
    How much pressure are you using, and how long, in seconds, would you say each product lasted? I usually only get one or two swipes (in a back and forth motion) before the DACP is gone...
    Let's make all of the cars shiny!

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    • #3
      Great write up. Curious to see the area after a 50/50 alcohol wipe down.
      As you make a living, don't forget to live.

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      • #4
        hi guys
        great job and very illustrative

        BTW, how do you get the scrap parts ?
        just go to the junkyard and pay for 'em or what ?

        see ya

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        • #5
          Thanks for the pics brother. I just put a post up about that. The finish looks great. I would like to see some work with the 80 also.
          That is an great looking finish considering you would still follow it up

          Comment


          • #6
            TH0001 - The #83 I was able to work for four or five minutes with many passes - I kept going until the polish went transparent, it broke down consistantly and wiped off a breeze to reveal the finish you see above. As for pressure, I was using what I would describe as light to medium pressure - perhaps around 10lbs. Hard to estimate I'm afraid, sorry...

            puntadigital - to get the scrap parts, I went down to my local bodyshop and asked if they were throwing out any painted panels, and they showed me a skip full of them, said i could help myself. I offered to pay for them, and the guy refused to accept anythings "as we're just throwing them out"... So I pressed a couple of £ into his hand for a pint (the least I could do!) and took the bonnet!
            "A thing of beauty is a joy for ever: Its loveliness increases; it will never pass into nothingness; .... "

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            • #7
              So no gumming probs with the 83. I am thinking of going that route followed by 80 on the pc for cars.

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              • #8
                Thats odd, Kickin, my DACP goes dry in a matter of seconds and you got minutes? Its almost like the pad soaks up the DACP and I have nothing left unless I tilt the pad, then I get brite white polish that hasn't been broken down. I wonder what I'm doing wrong?
                Let's make all of the cars shiny!

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the write-up.

                  Humidity in your area must be really low as PO85RD gums up in seconds in my country. #83 doesn't gum up as fast thanks to the oils.

                  I'm not at all surprised that PO85RD finished brighter and that #83 finished wetter (again, oils)

                  IMHO, Menzerna's PO85RD is the best when it comes burnishing the paint to a high gloss.
                  Last edited by wetlook; Jul 27, 2006, 06:52 PM.
                  Remember that you are UNIQUE - just like EVERYONE ELSE.

                  XP

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TH0001
                    Thats odd, Kickin, my DACP goes dry in a matter of seconds and you got minutes? Its almost like the pad soaks up the DACP and I have nothing left unless I tilt the pad, then I get brite white polish that hasn't been broken down. I wonder what I'm doing wrong?
                    I'm just practising techniques, so I may be the one who's wrong... I prime the pad at 600rpm - apply polish to the pad in an X, put on panels and switch on at 600rpm then very small motions to prime the pad up, then spread across at 600rpm. Works for me, and takes minutes to break down and once broken down removes really easily and leaves a lovely finish. Or I put lines of polish down the paint if I'm doin a large panel, and pick them up with the rotary slightly tilted at 600rpm to prime up the pad and then spread around... This way I can do a large panel without stopping: Pick up polish, spread and work, pick up next line of polish, spread and work and so on.
                    "A thing of beauty is a joy for ever: Its loveliness increases; it will never pass into nothingness; .... "

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MB///HRV
                      Great write up. Curious to see the area after a 50/50 alcohol wipe down.
                      You mention 50/50 alcohol. Will you clarify which alcohol you mix with water please, denatured/Isopropyl "rubbing alcohol"?

                      One guy said he uses ethanol, never said exactly if it was denatured or rubbing alcohol.

                      Thanks for clearing up my confusion.
                      If you want a perfect finish do a perfect job. Leave the corner cutting to the race car drivers.

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                      • #12
                        My question was answered by a fellow member already. Thanks anyways.
                        John
                        If you want a perfect finish do a perfect job. Leave the corner cutting to the race car drivers.

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