Glazes, #3 vs #7

[Mless5]

What are the differences between the two? What can I expect from either one?

Thanks!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

They're both what Meguiar's calls pure polishes, that is they contain no ingredients with the intended purpose of abrading, or cleaning the surface.

Both can be applied by hand, traditional orbital polisher and dual action polishers and #3 has the added feature of being able to be applied using a rotary buffer. This means it will not respond in a negative way under time, heat and pressure whereas #7 doesn't work very well when applied using a rotary buffer.

Out of all of the pure polishes in the Meguiar's line-up, the #7 contains the richest content of Meguiar's TS oils.

From an appearance point of view, most people could never see a visible difference on black paint when comparing these two products side-by-side, that is they will both make paint look great. Choose your poison.

The questions are,

What are you working on?
How are you applying the products?
What are your goals?

[bobbyt]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

Will one benefit much in using a pure polish such as #7 between #80 and #21 on a dark surface? I'm a sucker for the wet look but don't know if throwing #7 in between would show any better results.

[Mless5]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

Mike, thanks for your answer.

What are you working on? '89 single stage red paint
How are you applying the products? I am using random orbital PC
What are your goals? I am trying to bring shine, but using glaze to fill deeper scratches. The finished product will be covered with #21.

Thanks!

[keesue]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

I'd sure like to know where #5 fits in? (apologies for hijacking your thread, sir).

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

Mike, are you sure about those application methods? I'm almost positive my bottle of #3 says that it should be applied by rotary only. Did I get an old bottle?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

Will one benefit much in using a pure polish such as #7 between #80 and #21 on a dark surface? I'm a sucker for the wet look but don't know if throwing #7 in between would show any better results.

Couldn't hurt if the car is black or dark in color but most people wouldn't be able to see the difference because M80 is so rich in the same polishing oils.


Do a side-by-side test yourself, see what you can see.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

I'd sure like to know where #5 fits in? (apologies for hijacking your thread, sir).

#5 is a pure polish like #7 except it's formulated to dry. It's actually formulated to be used in humid climates, and it will dry very fast and turn very white and when you wipe it off it's very powdery.

#7 and #3 are both very wet products and don't really dry as they are very oily.

Buy one of each and play with them.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

Mike, are you sure about those application methods? I'm almost positive my bottle of #3 says that it should be applied by rotary only. Did I get an old bottle?

#3 is formulated for use with a rotary buffer. (didn't I write that?), it can be used with other tools and by hand. Think about it, it's a pure polish, it's non-abrasive, their are no diminishing abrasives to be broken down, thus in this case, you have a product that was specifically formulated to give the results of a #7 type product but be applied using a fast spinning, powerful tool for creating high gloss, super smooth surfaces, for example for preparing a Fiberglas mold for lay-up.

Just because it's made for application with a high speed machine, that doesn't take away from or prevent you from applying it slowly, (by hand), and not getting great results.

We've met many people in our lives that love to use #3 by hand.

[keesue]

Re: Glazes, #3 vs #7

#5 is a pure polish like #7 except it's formulated to dry. It's actually formulated to be used in humid climates, and it will dry very fast and turn very white and when you wipe it off it's very powdery.

#7 and #3 are both very wet products and don't really dry as they are very oily.

Buy one of each and play with them.

Thanks, Mike. I bought the #7, used it already and it is fantastic. I read shortly after asking this question where you said it was the richest in oils. I don't think I need the #5 as I don't live in a humid climate.

I think I now have the right products in the professional line to care for my new car. I have the #7, #20 and #26 to polish and wax. I was a bit unclear if I should have bought the #21 in place of #20 for this application. I think the difference is in the amount of cleaner. I'll have to research your threads to remember which one. With these three products as the foundation - polish, sealant and wax - I believe I can protect my investment and keep the paint looking top notch. I really like the look of the car.

I have samples of the #83 and #80 which I used with the DA on my 2001 Volvo and was knocked out. I waxed it with NXT and it is simply stunning.

Thanks for all your advice and best regards,

Howard