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PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

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  • #1

    PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

    Hello all!

    It's been a long time since I've posted on this board-ala Winter season. Anyhow, I've just recently picked up two customers for detailing and demonstrated what can be done. Well, while the customer was amazed at the difference I said that I can get even better results.

    Using the G-100, what product can 'step-up' ahead of M83/W8006? I was looking at getting M03/W8006. If not, it looks like I'd need to hit up a few passes of M83 and M80 to achieve the shine that I'd expect from day's worth of detailing.

    Let me know and it's great to be back!
    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth.
    2011 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec-V using AMSOIL synthetics. Best 1/4 mile: 14.959 (sold)
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

    M83 and the W7006, but it's not a recommended procedure.

    If you want to make your products work more, you should consider learning how to use a rotary buffer. then your limits of working will reach the limit ehen you neet to wet sand, and after that, everything else will be unremovable and thus, require repainting procedures.

    Hope This Helps
    " Sometimes logic is your friend (Mike-In-Orange)"

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    • #3
      Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

      yup, you may be at the end of the PC's ability.

      a real fast acting compound,,, say #85 with orange power pad may be worth a try, although its not recomended here....but i've had success with 85 and the pc.

      here's a quick pic - i remember this to be #85 with PC. no, not in the sun pic, but you get the idea

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      • #4
        Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

        in fact,, this was the rig,, that finally convinced me to get a Rotary...and learn how to use it.

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        • #5
          Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

          I can't stress enough that Meguiar's does not recommend the process I'm about to comment on. I did this of my own accord, at my own risk (though I figured the risk was very slight).

          I was presented with a 6 year old dark metallic blue car that sits outside all the time. It is regularly washed and waxed, but it had terrible water spotting and a ton of swirls. Three passes of M80 on a W8006 pad just wasn't getting the job done, so I moved to M83 on a W7006 cutting pad. This got rid of the swirls and water spotting (took two passes in most cases) but left the finish looking pretty hazy (hence Meguiar's stance of not recommending this combination with a PC). I followed it up with M80 on a W8006 pad and the hazing was knocked down, leaving a beautiful finish.

          Again, Meguiar's does not endorse this procedure. As always, do a test spot first because all paint finishes are not created equal and your results may not be the same as mine. I just can't stress this enough.
          Michael Stoops
          Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

          Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

            I've seen that the reason foam cutting pads scour the finish is because they need to be way prepped. if the pad is dry it will scour or swirl the finish, but not at a severe point. As Mike in orange said, the risk is pretty slight, but you do need to have experience to know how to remove the pad hazing :P
            " Sometimes logic is your friend (Mike-In-Orange)"

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

              Originally posted by Mike-in-Orange View Post
              I can't stress enough that Meguiar's does not recommend the process I'm about to comment on. I did this of my own accord, at my own risk (though I figured the risk was very slight).

              I was presented with a 6 year old dark metallic blue car that sits outside all the time. It is regularly washed and waxed, but it had terrible water spotting and a ton of swirls. Three passes of M80 on a W8006 pad just wasn't getting the job done, so I moved to M83 on a W7006 cutting pad. This got rid of the swirls and water spotting (took two passes in most cases) but left the finish looking pretty hazy (hence Meguiar's stance of not recommending this combination with a PC). I followed it up with M80 on a W8006 pad and the hazing was knocked down, leaving a beautiful finish.

              Again, Meguiar's does not endorse this procedure. As always, do a test spot first because all paint finishes are not created equal and your results may not be the same as mine. I just can't stress this enough.
              sometimes paint is just too hard for the PC. I was working on an explorer yesterday and a LC yellow cutting pad with #83 wasn't putting a dent in the swirls. I did 2 passes and it still did nothing . On top of that my 21 turned to water! So good ol' #20 saved the day because it was able to fill in most of the swirls when applied with a 9006 and speed 4.
              Patrick Yu
              2003 Honda Accord
              2008 Honda Accord EX-L V6

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

                I suspect the newly reformulated fine cut cleaner (#2) for use with PC is stronger then #83. Perhaps someone from Meguiars will chime in about this.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: PC-100 and #83...anything stronger?

                  Thanks for the replies!

                  Well, I already know how to use a rotary buffer but I just don't have the moula to support such a capable machine. The only product that I can see having the power and compatibility with the PC that I need is the medium cut cleaner.

                  I remember using the old medium cut cleaner and that was pretty abrasive before diminishing into polishing oils. I like the results on that truck, it has an extremely identical finish as per the car in question.

                  All of this having been said, the test area was slightly rushed and the products used may not have been utilized to their fullest.Though, I'd really like to cover all of my bases (A$$) before attempting to fix the paint and not waste any time running around, trying to track down some M01.

                  PS, beneath all of the swirls I can see buffer burning/damage on the paint....*sigh*....rushed buffing is counter productive kids.
                  2015 Fiat 500 Abarth.
                  2011 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec-V using AMSOIL synthetics. Best 1/4 mile: 14.959 (sold)

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