#105 vs. #95

[sneek]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Awesome! I need to find a way to get some of this stuff!

[Scottwax]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Not bad for an AGGRESSIVE CUTTING COMPOUND and a WOOL CUTTING PAD

Still stuns me how good a finish I can get with #105. On PPG CeramiClear using #105 with an 8006 polishing pad @ 1000 rpms, it not only takes out holograms left by the dealer hack who prepped the car, but the spider swirls as well and left the paint about 95% hologram free.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Thank you for your clarification sir. Understand M105 will need a softer polish afterwards ( but with a rotary or a DA / ROB? ).

Yes, you will need to do at least one more polishing step, and even a third depending upon how the paint itself is reacting to being polished and your goals for the finish quality.

It would be normal for someone shooting for a show car finish to follow the compounding step with a cleaner/polish with a rotary buffer and a foam polishing pad and then follow this step with a cleaner/polish or cleaner/wax using a DA Polisher to insure no swirls in bright light condition.

How long did you had to work in the M105 + rotary to finish up the front bonnet up to the 2nd pic?


Again, mind telling us how long M105 took to finish this front bonnet, up to bfr the 2nd milder polishing step ( M80 )?

It's been a while since we did that job and we don't usually watch a clock when we're working as we're not about speed, we're about finish quality, see this article.

If we had to guess we would guess that from the time we brought the buffing pad down onto the paint and then turned the buffer off it was at least an hour but less than 2 hours. That would include some dedicated time for all the outside edges of the panel. (You have to be more careful around edges and thus it takes more time and the goal is the removal of ALL sanding marks, not some percentage).

That's just a guess, again we don't time ourself when working on a car.

[Junebug]

Re: #105 vs. #95

I tried 105 and I'm one of the old school guys that had an issue with the new technique. I'm looking at something that fits my style of polishing, I don't mind taking it slow and following up with a second step. I'm also a bit nervous of the amount of clear I could potentially take off with a powerful compound like 105. Therefore, I humbly ask the veterans here - in your opinion, would I be better off with 95 (supposed to have a more traditional working time) or should I stick to 85 or 84?

BTW, I salute all that mastered 105, I tried my best and in the end, I made a mess in the shop, sent 4 pads to the washer and added a hour to the detail I was working on. But I never learned to rollar skate and at 48, I ain't about to try that again either!

[EdT]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)


Body shops don't normally shoot for the kind of results the people on this forum and forums like MOL are always talking about. Body shops, for the most part are "Production Shops", the goal is to paint the car and not have to buff it at all. If the car has to be buffed these guys want a cutting compound that will remove the sanding marks quickly and look good enough kick out the door. These criteria do not equal the criteria of the people that hang out on a forum like this.

See the difference?

Is it a great product? You bet it is. For absolute swirl free results does M105 need to be followed with secondary polishing steps? Yes, if you want swirl free results in any kind of lighting conditions.

Mike, well said !

I can see M105 is for bodyshops and used car dealers or detailers doing alot of daily driver, but I can't understand why anyone who is a car enthusiast or details their own cars would use an aggressive product like M95 or M105 ?

Seems people just want to try out a new product thats on the block even if it doesn't suit their applications !

[ZoranC]

Re: #105 vs. #95

I can see M105 is for bodyshops and used car dealers or detailers doing alot of daily driver, but I can't understand why anyone who is a car enthusiast or details their own cars would use an aggressive product like M95 or M105 ?

Because sometimes you do need a bigger hammer?

[Markus Kleis]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Because sometimes you do need a bigger hammer?

Exactly. I detail "professionally" and there are times when certain cars (usually black) would take 5-10 passes with most polishes, but one pass with M105, followed by 2-3 passes with a polish or two and you have perfection with MUCH less time and effort.