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Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

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  • #31
    Re: Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

    Does anyone know if there is an equivalent rpm rating for each of the 6 speeds for the g110?fficeffice" />
    Drive her Fast but Wax her slow

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    • #32
      Re: Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

      Check out: Dual Action Polisher Comparison Chart
      Swirls hide in the black molecular depths, only waiting for the right time to emerge and destroy your sanity.
      --Al Kimel

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      • #33
        Re: Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

        Are there any changes to these techniques with the newer products like swirlx that don't need to be broken down?

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        • #34
          Re: Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

          Originally posted by deathspared View Post
          Are there any changes to these techniques with the newer products like swirlx that don't need to be broken down?
          The idea is the same in the sense that when you're done just apply very very light pressure so that it "polishes" the paint instead of cleaning it.

          If I'm not mistaken, I believe the instant you push down and apply more pressure it'll start cutting more.

          Other than that, the last difference is that you're done when the defects are gone, rather than being done when the product breaks down.



          From my observations, when the old products broke down they became clear. With my experience with UC, if I applied very light pressure the surface started to look clear instead. If I pushed a bit harder the product showed up more and was the same color as before. Confusing to explain...

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          • #35
            Re: Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

            Originally posted by xantonin View Post
            The idea is the same in the sense that when you're done just apply very very light pressure so that it "polishes" the paint instead of cleaning it.

            If I'm not mistaken, I believe the instant you push down and apply more pressure it'll start cutting more.

            Other than that, the last difference is that you're done when the defects are gone, rather than being done when the product breaks down.
            Correct. Good explanation.

            Besides your choice of chemical, other factors include, downward pressure, pad type, arm speed, (how fast or slow you move the polisher), speed setting, time spent buffing, technique, (hold pad flat to surface).


            Mike Phillips
            760-515-0444
            showcargarage@gmail.com

            "Find something you like and use it often"

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