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Paint Workability - The Hardness or Softness of your car's paint
"You don't how hard or soft your paint is until you go out into your garage and work on your car"
This article is going to show you that two cars, from the same car manufacture, one year apart have totally different factory paints as far as hardness and softeness goes.
Soft or workable paint
The below was taken from page 3 of this thread and is in reference to the Rolls Royce Automobiles that attended one of our Saturday Detailing Classes.
Rolls Royce at Meguiar's!
Hi Bill,
Sorry I never caught-up with this question, the thing about paint hardness or softness is you really don't know until you go out into your garage and work on your car and that's when you'll find out.
Recently we worked on a Chrysler 300 owned by forum member fatchance and we did some wet-sanding and polishing work on the hood of his car and the paint was very easy to work on, as in our sanding marks buffed out easily and quickly.
From this thread, where we removed the egg impact scratches from fatchance's 2005 Chrysler 300,
Photos from March 29th Open Garage at Meguiar's!
John aka fatchance, let us do a little wet-sanding on his Chrysler 300 as the hood was hit with an egg and it left some deeper scratches on the hood.
This photo was actually taken after wet-sanding with a backing pad and then using a rotary buffer with a cutting pad and M84 Compound Power Cleaner to remove the sanding marks. We didn't get any pictures of how bad the scratches were before we started but you'll get the idea...
After removing all the lighter scratches from the process above, we then cut up some small pieces of Nikken #2500 grit Finishing Paper to zero in on just the scratches while sanding.
After sanding each of the individual scratches flat, we then removed the sanding marks using the W-7006 Foam Cutting pad with some more M84 Compound Power Cleaner at around 1500 rpm.
We then re-polished the area with a W-8006 Foam Polishing Pad and some M83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the rotary buffer, the re-polished again using M80 Speed Glaze with the G100 and then applied some M21 Synthetic Sealant.
About the only sign of the scratches left was this tiny little residual scratch right here...
Hard or Non-Workable paint
Then, last Wednesday we worked on the same model car only a year newer and found the factory paint to be very hard as compared to John's Chrysler,
From this thread,
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14861
Quote:
Hi John,
First we would like to thank you for bringing Ella and her car to Meguiar's Garage and allowing us to work on it. As you can see Ella keeps her car in pristine condition!
There were however to very unsightly scratches in the shape of an arc, running from the back of the hood by the windshield all the way to the front of the hood on the passenger's side of the car.
Here's some close-ups of the scratches, while they don't look very deep, they stood out like a sore thumb on an other wise flawless finish.
The paint also had these almost perfect, circular indents throughout the hood as you can see in the below close-up which is actually a section cropped out of the above photo and actual size.
In order to remove these scratches we decided to use a technique called Feather Sanding, where you take a small piece of Meguiar's Nikken Finishing Paper, about the size of a postage stamp, and carefully sand directly over the defect you're trying to remove and feather the edge out until you can no longer see the scratch.
After sanding out the two long arc scratches, we took a photo of the entire hood so you can now see just how long these scratches extended over the passenger's side of the hood and we think most people would agree, that if they owned this car and the finish was otherwise flawless except for two distinct, long scratches in the hood... well you would want them out of the paint also!
The easy part is actually sanding out the scratches, the tricky part is removing the sanding marks!. This however is where Meguiar's excels! We've been creating products that use diminishing abrasives since 1901 and our product have the ability to actually remove defects without instilling defects at the same time and that's the secret to creating flawless, show car finishes!
We would like to note that we think Ella's eyes got a little bigger while watching us sand on the hood of her baby...
After wet-sanding out the defects, we carefully massaged out our sanding marks and then asked Ella to apply some M21 Synthetic Sealant. Here are the results...
In summary...
Paint Hardness - You don't how hard or soft the paint on your car is until you go out into your garage and start working on your car.
Hope this helps...
"You don't how hard or soft your paint is until you go out into your garage and work on your car"
This article is going to show you that two cars, from the same car manufacture, one year apart have totally different factory paints as far as hardness and softeness goes.
Soft or workable paint
The below was taken from page 3 of this thread and is in reference to the Rolls Royce Automobiles that attended one of our Saturday Detailing Classes.
Rolls Royce at Meguiar's!
Originally posted by Bill D
Mike,
This is absolute eye candy!Do you find all the RR finishes to be soft? Which one was most difficult to polish?
Mike,
This is absolute eye candy!Do you find all the RR finishes to be soft? Which one was most difficult to polish?
Sorry I never caught-up with this question, the thing about paint hardness or softness is you really don't know until you go out into your garage and work on your car and that's when you'll find out.
Recently we worked on a Chrysler 300 owned by forum member fatchance and we did some wet-sanding and polishing work on the hood of his car and the paint was very easy to work on, as in our sanding marks buffed out easily and quickly.
From this thread, where we removed the egg impact scratches from fatchance's 2005 Chrysler 300,
Photos from March 29th Open Garage at Meguiar's!
John aka fatchance, let us do a little wet-sanding on his Chrysler 300 as the hood was hit with an egg and it left some deeper scratches on the hood.
This photo was actually taken after wet-sanding with a backing pad and then using a rotary buffer with a cutting pad and M84 Compound Power Cleaner to remove the sanding marks. We didn't get any pictures of how bad the scratches were before we started but you'll get the idea...
After removing all the lighter scratches from the process above, we then cut up some small pieces of Nikken #2500 grit Finishing Paper to zero in on just the scratches while sanding.
After sanding each of the individual scratches flat, we then removed the sanding marks using the W-7006 Foam Cutting pad with some more M84 Compound Power Cleaner at around 1500 rpm.
We then re-polished the area with a W-8006 Foam Polishing Pad and some M83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the rotary buffer, the re-polished again using M80 Speed Glaze with the G100 and then applied some M21 Synthetic Sealant.
About the only sign of the scratches left was this tiny little residual scratch right here...
Hard or Non-Workable paint
Then, last Wednesday we worked on the same model car only a year newer and found the factory paint to be very hard as compared to John's Chrysler,
From this thread,
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14861
Quote:
| Originally posted by fatchance We had a great time, thanks to the Meg's crew, Mike, Jason and Sean. The hood on Ella C SRT looked amazing when it was finished. |
Hi John,
First we would like to thank you for bringing Ella and her car to Meguiar's Garage and allowing us to work on it. As you can see Ella keeps her car in pristine condition!
There were however to very unsightly scratches in the shape of an arc, running from the back of the hood by the windshield all the way to the front of the hood on the passenger's side of the car.
Here's some close-ups of the scratches, while they don't look very deep, they stood out like a sore thumb on an other wise flawless finish.
The paint also had these almost perfect, circular indents throughout the hood as you can see in the below close-up which is actually a section cropped out of the above photo and actual size.
In order to remove these scratches we decided to use a technique called Feather Sanding, where you take a small piece of Meguiar's Nikken Finishing Paper, about the size of a postage stamp, and carefully sand directly over the defect you're trying to remove and feather the edge out until you can no longer see the scratch.
After sanding out the two long arc scratches, we took a photo of the entire hood so you can now see just how long these scratches extended over the passenger's side of the hood and we think most people would agree, that if they owned this car and the finish was otherwise flawless except for two distinct, long scratches in the hood... well you would want them out of the paint also!
The easy part is actually sanding out the scratches, the tricky part is removing the sanding marks!. This however is where Meguiar's excels! We've been creating products that use diminishing abrasives since 1901 and our product have the ability to actually remove defects without instilling defects at the same time and that's the secret to creating flawless, show car finishes!
We would like to note that we think Ella's eyes got a little bigger while watching us sand on the hood of her baby...
After wet-sanding out the defects, we carefully massaged out our sanding marks and then asked Ella to apply some M21 Synthetic Sealant. Here are the results...
In summary...
Paint Hardness - You don't how hard or soft the paint on your car is until you go out into your garage and start working on your car.
Hope this helps...
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