TO flex or not to flex that is the question

[Markus Kleis]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Once I get the right combo...I will post that combo here! Right now its a work in progress!

I'm anxious to see that...being a new FLEX owner myself

[Kevin Brown]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Originally Posted by Kevin Brown

I'd like to see a machine just like the G100 or G110 that force-rotates 5 or 6 times per minute...

Originally posted by ZoranC

Isn't something very close to that machine already available, all it takes is to put Flex on approximately speed 3?

I think you may have misread as 5 or 6 times per second.
I would like to have a machine that force-rotates 5 to 6 times per minute.

The Flex (as you know) rotates between 160-480 r.p.m.

[ZoranC]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

I think you may have misread as 5 or 6 times per second.
I would like to have a machine that force-rotates 5 to 6 times per minute.

The Flex (as you know) rotates between 160-480 r.p.m.

I did not misread it all I was trying to say is that in the absence of exact fit Flex at speed 3 is not too far off, two three hundredish RPMs.

It would be definitely interesting to play with something that has even lower RPMs as it is my impression that faster forced component is more tool wants to get out of control (RO 150 FEQ had more tendency to do that on me and it's RPMs are higher than XC 3401 VRG's).

[Kevin Brown]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Missed these questions...

In your opinion, can the Dynabrade attachment replace the G-100?

Could it feasibly replace the G100? Yes. Points to CONSIDER:

The Dynabrade attachment costs almost as much money as a G100/G110.
You'd have to decide whether you would justify the price.

The total package weighs quite a bit more (rotary & attachment) than a G100/G110.
Over a long polishing-session, it may more be tiresome to use.

The combo is also larger in size than a G100/G110.
In tight areas, the combo may be difficult to use.

The G100/G110 can accept various-diameter backing plates.
This allows the machine to accept 2"-8" pads.
The Dynabrade cannot.

The Dynabrade attachment has a larger-diameter oscillation size.
Some people may not grow accustomed to the change in 'feel' when compared to a G100/G110.

The Dynabrade attachment works aggressively.
It REALLY works- Like, right now!
Defect removal is VERY impressive.

The Dynabrade/rotary combo is very comfortable to use.
Even though it's bigger and heavier, it feels right.
Generally, rotary-polishers are larger than G100/G110's.
They are designed to be held at the rear and to the side.
The positioning of your hands helps to control the torque-action.

The Dynabrade/rotary combo doesn't vibrate in the same manner as a G100/G110.
For some people, this can really make the difference in comfort... No more itchy hands!

Does it finish down well enough (with the right product of course) for for someone less experienced so that the paint is LSP ready?

From what I've experienced? YES.

Am I ready to get rid of my G100's? NO WAY!

[Kevin Brown]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Here's another thread that has a lot of good input from our detailing-buddy Mike Stoops:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22785&highlight=dynabrade

[Kevin Brown]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

It would be definitely interesting to play with something that has even lower RPMs, as it is my impression that faster forced component is, more tool wants to get out of control (RO 150 FEQ had more tendency to do that on me and it's RPMs are higher than XC 3401 VRG's).

You hit the nail on the head.

That's why I'd like to drop the speed WAY down.

[ZoranC]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

That's why I'd like to drop the speed WAY down.

Question is how achievable that is. I would assume forced component and random one are interrelated through gearing. If that is correct having huge ratio would result in need for too small / too big gearing. Flex has ratio of 20:1 (9600 / 480). One you would like to have would require 1400:1 (7000 / 5).

[Kevin Brown]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Be a pretty big gear...

[ZoranC]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Be a pretty big gear...

Nothing that would stop Tim "The Toolman" Taylor I can only imagine how that episode would look like

[Kevin Brown]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

I'll have to bite the bullet, I guess.

I want forced-rotation, so I've got no choice....


I'll have to pay a guy to do it.

"...SPIN IT SLOW!... DO IT!... C'MON!..."

[Maz]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

I'm sure you are and that is great but rotary is the only way you get true correction a da just won't do it but for the small and light stuff it does' some what good

Wow! Talk about NOT being open minded about the flex. I think you've already made your mind up before you even use it.

So when a forced DA removes sanding marks, its still not "true correction"?

i don't want to get everyone in a up roar this could go on forever i'm just voicing my opinion like everyone else

Your opinion is incorrect. You haven't even used the Flex 3401 and you are already dismissing it. Stop filling the thread up with bull ****. Sure that is rude but you are filling the thread with incorrect advice about a machine you have not used.

A flex has a rotary action at 480rpm. I personally have a Metabo rotary myself, but its up for sale as im UPGRADING to a flex.

I tried another detailers Flex 3401 with Meguiars 105, a twisted wool pad on a ceramic clear paintjob which we all know is extremely hard paint. The car was heavily swirled with a lot of moderate scratches. In 20 seconds his section came up LSP ready with the defects removed. I worked a section with my Metabo and a edge yellow wool pad with M105 and i also removed the defects but had slight holograms.

Every rotary user ive seen that has used M105 had to do a step after it to improve gloss or remove holograms. However on this car it was LSP ready with the flex.

A normal DA machine has significantly less cutting power than a rotary so it often struggles on heavy swirls and light scratches. A flex also has less cutting power than a rotary however it has enough cut to remove heavy swirls and ligth scratches. In my opinion the only reason why you'd need a rotary would be for Boat detailing on oxidised gelcoat.

Seriously put a heavy cutting twisted wool pad on flex 3401 and boy does it cut. Everyone else is still using foam and has not seen what the flex can really do. The twisted wool and M105 will cut through the most heavily oxidised single stage paints. It really has so much cut that i dont think you'll ever need to pick up a rotary again, even for scratches and 1200grit sanding marks. The flex removes them all and leaves a better finish.

So many details i know in real life and on autopia still use a DA machine for soft clear coats that are difficult to finish hologram free with a rotary. A Flex 3401 on the same soft clears will finish hologram free every time so you will never need to pick up a DA only machine again.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: TO flex or not to flex that is the question

Maz,

We clearly warned people that we would not tolerate bashing of individuals and that we will not hesitate to Ban a person's membership privilege. Apparently, you failed to heed to our warning.


We tried to allow people to post objectively with respect and apparently that can not happen in this thread, so it is being closed.

Thanks!

Tim