M105 - Correct Process How To

[ZoranC]

Ever since M105 spread like a brushfire in the detailing community I keep hearing advices and comments along the lines of

"Use two pea sized drops"

or

"Work it for 9-10 seconds, that is all, it flashes very fast"

or I see people using it with white polishing pads.

This contradicts what I have seen around when it comes to M105.

Therefore it night be in the best interest of detailing community (potentially being misinformed right now?) out there and Meguiar's if M105 is used correctly, so official instructions / clarifications on the process (pads, amount, time, etc) will be appreciated I assume by everybody.

P.S. Unofficial comments from people well experienced with M105 will be appreciated too.

Thank you in advance!

[Ivan Rajic]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I have used it only 5 times and not over an entire car, so I'm looking forward to Meg's and more experienced users' answers.

For me however, with a LC foamed wool purple pad on the Makita, 105 lasted very well on soft Porsche paint for 1 pass (on a 2'x2' area) @ 1200, 1 @ 1500, 1 @ 1200, 1 @ 900... that seemed to work the best on that paint. As I mentioned above, I don't have enough experience to make any instructional comments, so I'll wait for other responses. The only thing I know is that it does break down very fast compared to other aggressive polishes.

[Justin Murphy]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I've used 105 on over 20 vehicles to date. Some with the G110 and various pads. Some with the rotary and wool/various pads. I have to say, to me, there is no etched in stone way to use any single product. There is no way to determine the exact amount of product to use every time. Way to many variables. The only constant with 105 is that it is fast and it works.

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I've used 105 on over 20 vehicles to date. Some with the G110 and various pads. Some with the rotary and wool/various pads. I have to say, to me, there is no etched in stone way to use any single product. There is no way to determine the exact amount of product to use every time. Way to many variables. The only constant with 105 is that it is fast and it works.

That is why its so important to do a test spot. There are so many variables out there. Very well said.

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

While there can be many variables question was what is official process and from all I know using M105 with G110 and foam pads is not official recommandation thus we should try not to wander off but focus onto use as recommended.

I am sure there are variables even within recommended use area, but it is logical to assume ballpark is much narrower and well defined, especially because briefly knowing persons involved in M105 does leave strong impression of someone that is methodical, disciplined, focused, of scientific approach.

So I will continue looking forward to official input and input of those intimiately familiar with M105 in regard to official use area.

[Kevin Brown]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

The only thing I know is that it does break down very fast compared to other aggressive polishes.

Meguiar's M105 Ultra Cut Compound features a non-diminishing abrasive.
Therefore, the component does not 'break down' (as compared to traditional Meguiar's liquids utilizing abrasive-action).
Interested in your feedback!

By 'break down', do you mean:

• Fails to deliver fast cutting after a short period of time...

• Dries away from the surface, no longer transforming the paint...

• Cuts and then turns oily, such as M85 Diamond Cut 2.0 or M84 Compound Power Cleaner...

It's been my experience that M105 lasts and lasts and lasts.

If used with the recommended wool pad, much of the M105 will dust away when the pad is cleaned- Which is a GOOD THING!
I like the fact that it doesn't stick around, gumming up the pad with contaminated goop.
Some people have mentioned a 'dust issue', but, the culprit is usually related to over-application of product, or polishing until the surface is dry.

Even if you should encounter an A-3 dust scenario or situation....

The dust never seems to scratch the paint when it's wiped away!

[Ivan Rajic]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

In my dictionary...

"break down"... The polish will break down in 2 seconds, then I can lift the pad, wipe it off, and move on to the next section.

break down means to finish "working"... I don't know the proper terms, and since there are way too many misconceptions within the industry as far as what some terms mean, I don't care too much... I think a polish breaking down is in general meant as a phrase for a polish that's "done"

it has a short 'working time'

Which pad/machine did you use when the 105 "lasted and lasted and lasted"? I'd love to be able to work it longer

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I have a feeling that many are forgetting how abrasives in M105 work. They do not break down in a manner that diminishing abrasives do. They keep working, and working, and working, cutting, and cutting, and cutting, running, and running, and running. An Energizer Bunny of the polishes.

[Kevin Brown]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I think I gotcha now.

Please don't take offense or think I'm nit-picking...
I truly just want to help & inform!
I think you mean that M105 is quick to complete the defect-removal portion of the job?

AND!- That M105 seems to have a short working-cycle.

Meaning, "I apply it, then it cuts, then not much changes after a few seconds, so it must be time to stop, or add more product, or wipe it away..."

I use a rotary polisher (as recommended by Meguiar's), as well as a random-orbital polisher (NOT recommended by Meguiar's).
I've also used it with a forced-rotation machine (Flex 3401VRG).

Are you using it with a rotary and a wool pad?
If so, your best bet is to fully prime the pad using the M105 by rubbing some into the pad with your hands.
Make sure it feels moist throughout- Not sloppy, but a bit more than you might normally use.

Next, apply a bead of product directly onto the surface you wish to polish.
Polish until it seems that the paint is not reacting to the buffing anymore.

At that point, clean the pad with a spur and/or forced-air.
Forced-air (compressed air) is by far the best method.
I think what sometimes happens with M105 is...
The moisture-depleted abrasive-residue that has not dusted away, cakes upon the surface of the buffing pad (I think!).
Without moisture supplied via the carrier/lubricant, the abrasive cannot properly transfer to the surface.
Unless you add downforce, it won't polish much.

By thoroughly cleaning the pad, the fibers of the pad loosen and separate, helping to remove the stuck-on (and stuck-together) abrasive remnants.

After cleaning, re-apply as normal and continue polishing.
Once the pad is fully primed, you should see increased working-time.

M105 is a very unique and high-end product...
In most cases, proper use demands that you keep the pad very clean & apply less product per cycle.

Once you're done with the defect-removal portion of your polish job, use a minimum amount of product to get the best finishing results.
Sometimes I just clean the pad THOROUGHLY, drop the speed WAY down (1000 rpm on my DeWalt), and apply consistent, firm pressure to the machine.

Hope this helps.

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Hope this helps.

LOL @

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Some people have mentioned a 'dust issue', but, the culprit is usually related to over-application of product, or polishing until the surface is dry.

Kevin, would applying too little of a product (like few peas sized drops, as advised elsewhere) result in quick drying (due to quick absorption into a pad) and lots of dusting?

[Justin Murphy]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Priming the pad with Last Touch (any QD) is a must. I actually like to completely wet the pad with water, wring out by hand, then spin out the rest of the water. This makes the entire pad damp and ready to work with.

How long you work 105 comes from the severity of the paint and the test area. You simply work 105 long to correct the paint due to severity.......not to let it break down.

[Kevin Brown]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Kevin, would applying too little of a product (like few peas sized drops, as advised elsewhere) result in quick drying (due to quick absorption into a pad) and lots of dusting?

Quick drying?- Yes.

Lots of dusting?- Hmmm...
More than an oily polish, but no more than a typical abrasive-polish.

I've used MANY other liquids that dust-out WAAAY more than M105...!

Another read on the wonderful liquid known as M105:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22775&highlight=m105+kevin

[yalerd]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I've not encountered much dusting in M105, it's almost none.

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Lots of dusting?- Hmmm...
More than an oily polish, but no more than a typical abrasive-polish.

I have asked whether M105 would result in 'lots' when being under-applied because I have seen comments 'dusts like crazy' or similar very often and pattern of usage I see is that majority of people might be under-applying, not over-applying. I am concluding they might be under-applying based on perpertul comments/advices to use just few drops, it is very rare to see advice or comment that pad has been primed with water/QD, and that it has been primed with polish, and that bead has been picked up.

So, if pad has not been primed and/or M105 has been under-applied would that result in 'dusts like crazy'?

Also, any thoughts on comment "If people are seeing it flash quickly and there is dusting they are using it correctly."?