Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair
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  1. #1
    Registered Member Override's Avatar
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    Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    ok, so I am planning to do my first full detail this coming weekend. I got all my ducks in order ( product that is ). everything from my new flex 3401, m80, leather cleaner, m40 dressing, klasse sealant, nxt wax, MF drying towels and MF towels, applicators, 6.5" pads, nxt wash soap and a few more i am not listing.... I have a couple different cars to pick from, so i am not sure which one i will start with.

    now, i want to check on a couple items.

    1. Claying. I usually clay a car after i have washed and dried it. lube, clay and buff with 2 MF towels as a go, leaving a clean finish... my quesions on this are:
    --- can/should i leave the car wet and mix the clay lube with the remaining water as a I clay it.. and not bothering to buff if dry as i go.
    --- then do a second wash to remove the clay lube leftovers and then dry it fully ?

    2. Taping and masking for the paint clean/polish steps. i understand why to mask it off, but what about the small edge that is covered by the tape? are you guys going over that carefully after with the PC/flex buffer, or doing it by hand ? I guess this also includes the nooks you can't hit with the PC.

    3. Taping needed on final step ? I am going to leave the trim taped off, but should i remove the tape between the edges ( doors , hood edge , etc ) when i go over it with the Machine Glaze and a finishing or polishing pad?

    I hope my questions/concerns make sense to you guys... i try to plan my entire process out to the fine details before i start anything.... especially snce this is my first time. ( by the way, i will be practicing on a wrecked cars hood with the machine before i start this ).

    thanks

    Ryan

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    Registered Member Murr1525's Avatar
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    Re: Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    1. You can, but you have to keep rewetting the car to keep everything from drying. Kind of uses more water, and probably not a great idea in the summer.

    2. If you tape really carefully, you can keep it all on the badge, trim, etc on and not on the paint. But some little parts will get missed, and doing those by hand if needed would be fine.

    3. What do you mean by edges? There's no real need to tape the gaps.
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    Registered Member Override's Avatar
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    Re: Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    3. yah, that is what i mean , the gaps between the doors, hood, etc.

    I see some of the taping pictures with ALL the gaps taped off. I really don't see the need for that unless you have a really tough defect you need to attack with a heavy cut and you want to minimize any damage that could occur on an edge.

    In general, swirls, minor scratchs, spider webs, etc using an 83 or less would not need the gaps taped off..

    right ?

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    Registered Member yalerd's Avatar
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    Re: Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    1. It's better to dry the car and clay, as you clay and lubricate the surface with a clean microfiber towel remove the lube, it's a time saver

    2. I would agree with Murr, tape very well those badges and trim and you'll be fine

    3. No need to tape the gaps when waxing, I would tape the plastics and leave the badges taped as well, when done then remove the tape


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    Registered Member Murr1525's Avatar
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    Re: Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    Well, few reasons:

    - On an old car, some of the gaps arent lined up, and edges or raised portions are where the paint may be thinnest, so to be safe you could tape those, then come back by hand.

    - To help keep splatter out. But you reall should not be jumping back and forth over the panels, just running along the edge, and I dont seem to get much splatter in there, at lest by G100.

    For a show car, you may see a cloth get put over the engine then the hood closed to keep splatter off, just incase any slipped through and bounced around. But I have not needed to do that on my car. If any spots did get through, I havent seen it, or at least nothing opening the hood/trunk/doors and wiping like usual didnt get.
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    Registered Member yalerd's Avatar
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    Re: Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Override View Post
    I see some of the taping pictures with ALL the gaps taped off.
    Mainly this is done when working with a Rotary Buffer, since the gaps may be thinner.

    What are you working on?

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    Registered Member Override's Avatar
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    Re: Details on the Detail steps for clay and paint repair

    thanks guys, i can see clearly now....

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