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very old paint/clear coat

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  • #1

    very old paint/clear coat

    I had my 37 ford 2 door painted and clear coated about 7 years ago. Due to an extended absence, was unable to get it wet sanded and buffed. It was coated with 2 or 3 coats of clear. I has been stored inside all this time.

    I am worred that I may have a tough time getting the clear cut down. Not sure how to proceed, having never done this before. It has a couple good sized sags in the clear but overall the paint looks good.
    I have read some of the threads on this but getting really confused.

    I am prepared to spend the time it takes to get the job done but need some guidance. Have reviewed the videos and they are very helpful. But with paint this old how do I proceed?

    I will be getting a buffer so which one or ones do I need? Also which products(compounds and pads) and in what sequence will get this job done?
    I am still reading threads and learning much as I go along. Thanks in advance for all your help
    JWA
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: very old paint/clear coat

    My 2 cents worth for your consideration with the other info/advice you're acquiring... I'm not sure the age of the paint matters, other than it may take a bit more effort as it will be fully cured. If you can get access to a paint film thickness guage, that will help determine how much clear you actually have and will dictate how much corrective sanding you can do. From there it's a matter of getting a good, long hard-rubber sanding block and the appropriate grit(s) of paper. More aggressive (lower numerically) will work faster if you have decent clear coat film thickness.

    If you're not able to determine the thickness of your clear coat, I'd go conservative and sand w/ 2500, then 3000. It will be more work, but safer and easier to sand out the scratches. Start in an inconspicuous place and monitor your progress as you work through all the steps. Also, pay particular attention to body & character lines and sharp break points so you don't sand through the clear (If I recall, the 37 has slight peaks on the front fenders... an easy place to sand-thru the clear coat).

    Be careful sanding out your runs, as it's too easy to sand thru the surround area. I'd suggest masking around the run so that you work just that spot and check your progress frequently to make sure you're not sanding elsewhere inadvertantly.

    If you're familiar w/ a rotary buffer, the So1o systems is hard to beat. If you're not familiar w/ a rotary buffer, you can do the job by hand but I've found that a DA like Meg's G110 & M-105 have worked for me on most clear coats, though I occasionally get dusting from this combination. Use the new W8207 polishing pad. It may require multiple applications to remove the sanding scratches and take much more time than a rotary, but they will come out. Finish w/ Tech Wax 2.0 and the W9207 pad and you'll be good-to-go.

    Good luck!

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: very old paint/clear coat

      A couple of comments...

      The best time to wet-sand is shorty after the paint was sprayed because the paint will still be soft enough to buff your sanding marks out. It's easy to wet-sand, that means putting scratches in the paint, (more or less), the tricky part is buffing the sanding marks out of the paint and the harder it gets the more difficult it will be to remove the sanding marks.

      Check out these two threads...

      Can a Rotary Buffer like a Makita or DeWalt be as Idiot-proof as a PC?

      Please explain Pros/Cons between Rotary and Orbital Buffers


      You can still do the job and you never know if the buffing process will be hard or easy till you do on little spot and find out.

      You're going to need some wet-sanding papers, Meguiar's offers a "Finishing Paper" called Nikken that uses Unigrit Technology that will help to reduce what we call tracers.

      You'll also need a good rotary buffer, the other types of polisher are not powerful enough to tackle an entire car with the idea that you're going to remove all sanding marks.

      You will also need an aggressive compound and a wool cutting pad and then after your compound out your sanding marks you'll want to polish the paint using a less aggressive pad and a cleaner/polish.

      Then after that if you want to insure a swirl free finish you'll want to re-polish using a DA Polisher and again, a less aggressive cleaner/polish.

      Last of all you'll want to apply a coat of wax.

      So it's not a quick job, it's not an easy job and it's a lot to take on if this is your first time sanding and buffing out a paint job.

      The best approach will be to probably tackle only a panel at at time and learn as you go...

      If you want to pursue this then let us know and we can make some specific product recommendations...

      Mike Phillips
      760-515-0444
      showcargarage@gmail.com
      "Find something you like and use it often"

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: very old paint/clear coat

        Yes I am ready to proceed!!! I do have the advantage of having an old car to practice on and do not need to get the 37 on the road soon, so I can take my time and do sections at a time after getting practice on the beater.
        Please advise on your specific recommendations on products and If you will, specific machines to use. Other club members are wanting to see how I do on this project so I gotta make it look good. Several need help also on their detailing projects. I have directed them to this site.
        Thanks for your help.
        Still reading past posts and trying to put it all together.
        What a great site!!
        JWA

        Comment

        • #5
          Good luck with the project. Don't forget

          Michael


          Talent hits a target no-one else can hit; genius hits targets no-one else can see. - Schopenhauer

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: very old paint/clear coat

            Originally posted by ADCOX View Post
            Please advise on your specific recommendations on products and If you will, specific machines to use.
            Hang tight...

            We'll post a list this morning of product recommendations...

            Does your Ford resemble this Ford except that it has new paint? In otherwise is it the same body style?





            The reason we ask is because it's a lot easier to remove machine sanding marks than it is to remove hand sanding marks in most cases. With the Mirka Abralon system you can use a DA Air Sander to sand the paint down starting with #1000 grit and finishing in #4000 grit and #4000 grit sanding marks will buff out a lot easier than for example finishing with #2000 grit by hand.

            Do you have a large air compressor and a DA Sander?


            Mike Phillips
            760-515-0444
            showcargarage@gmail.com
            "Find something you like and use it often"

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: very old paint/clear coat

              yes the 37 is similiar.. I do have a large air compressor and a da sander. attached is one shot of the car, others are on the gallery under ADCOX

              Thanks again to the responses, looking forward to getting started
              JWA

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: very old paint/clear coat

                Yes the 37 ford is sililiar and i do have a large compressor and DA. This is one shot others are on the gallery under adcox. thanks

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: very old paint/clear coat

                  Just saw a thread on how to take better photos, will be trying this soon so the defects show up better. Can't tell from my shots what the condition is . I will try and get some shots of the sags and runs in the clear. The paint has some small nibs and orange peel, but not too drastic.

                  I ran across one post showing bathroom scales and pressures for buffing. Can't find it again still looking, got frustrated looking gave up for now.
                  Thanks for all your help.
                  JWA

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Re: very old paint/clear coat

                    You are off to a good start with the advice to date!
                    Remember that wetsanding is very messy. So, cover the floor, mask everything else!

                    Looking forward to more pictures!

                    Jim
                    If it was easy, everybody'd be doing it!

                    www.jimmybuffit.com

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Re: very old paint/clear coat

                      Originally posted by ADCOX View Post
                      Just saw a thread on how to take better photos, will be trying this soon so the defects show up better. Can't tell from my shots what the condition is . I will try and get some shots of the sags and runs in the clear. The paint has some small nibs and orange peel, but not too drastic.
                      Here you go...

                      How to capture pictures of swirls in your car's paint


                      Originally posted by ADCOX View Post
                      I ran across one post showing bathroom scales and pressures for buffing. Can't find it again still looking, got frustrated looking gave up for now.
                      Thanks for all your help.
                      JWA
                      Here's the thread with the bathroom scale, the point of the scale was to help people understand they need to use some downward pressure when using a DA Polisher to remove below surface defects.

                      Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line

                      What you're doing will require a rotary buffer first to remove sanding marks followed by a DA Polisher to insure there are no swirls.

                      Back to the scale used in the above thread... if you read this thread you'll note that one of the most common problems people make when learning to use a DA Polisher is they don't use enough pressure and thus they don't get the swirl removing results they're looking for. See bullet list item #4

                      Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
                      (These are all similar tools)

                      Here's a list of the most common problems
                      1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time
                      2. Move the polisher too fast over the surface
                      3. Too low of speed setting for removing swirls
                      4. Too little pressure on the head of the unit
                      5. Too much pressure on the head of the unit so the pad quits rotating
                      6. Not keeping the pad flat while working your product
                      7. Too much product, too little product
                      8. Not cleaning the pad often enough
                      (Click on the link above to read the entire article).


                      Just to note, all of the above links are in the Information Station where you'll find the sub-categories,

                      Hot Topics
                      How To Articles
                      Forum Related How-To Articles


                      Mike Phillips
                      760-515-0444
                      showcargarage@gmail.com
                      "Find something you like and use it often"

                      Comment

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