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I have a 1998 Mercedes E 320. The headlamp lens have become tarnished. I have used the Plastic Polish from Meguiars with some success. What is the best procedure to restore and protect them?
Thanks I did apply several coats of the PlasticX product with a buffer. It seems like that is all that is in the restoration kit. I guess I have to keep working at it to get it all off. They are better but still not "like new". Maybe more coats will do it. I was hoping there was a way to be more aggressive and get more off initially and then polish to remove any scratches.
I've been noticing around here lately that of all the makes/models of cars driving around, the headlights that are the most oxidized and opaque are on Mercedes.
Go figure.
Heatgain (Gary)
The Irate Magistrate Neutral & Detached
You could also try wet sanding, I know on YouTube 3M has some videos with their drill pads that it looks like it restored then headlights well, if PlastX is not working well.
Joel
Firefighter/EMT-B
Rejuvenation Auto Detailing "Satisfaction Guaranteed or Your Dirt Back!!!"
'99 F-150
What worked for my headlights was Wet Sanding. Before Doing that I would buy a Polishing pad for a power drill. You can get one in the Headlight Restoration kit from Meguiar's.
I have a 1998 Mercedes E 320. The headlamp lens have become tarnished. I have used the Plastic Polish from Meguiars with some success. What is the best procedure to restore and protect them?
Thanks,
srb1194
I have a 98 CLK 320 I had to wet sand them using 1000 grit then a polish to bring back the luster and protect with a sealant . They are like brand new now.
I used to offer a headlight polishing service here in Santiago, Chile as part of our detail package.
I always started with a wet sanding. Depending on the damage to the headlight, I wouldn't go beyond a 1000 grit paper. We used 500 for severely damaged/cracked headlights, but the lower the number, the more work you are creating for yourself.
If you start with a 1000 grit paper, you can shorten the time to get the lenses back to "like new" condition by stepping down to, say a 1500 grit and then proceeding to a 2000 or 2500 grit paper to finish it off.
Trust me, if you spend just a few extra minutes passing over the lenses with the finer papers, you'll save yourself time, energy, and the stress of thinking that you have destroyed your expensive factory lenses.
When you've completed your sanding, I'd advise that you purchase the Meguiar's polishing kit and finish off the job that way. Come back and report on your progress so others can learn from our experiences.
Thanks for the information. The headlight kit has a buffing pad and plastic polish. If I already have the polish then is there a reason to buy the kit just for the pad? Are you confident that these types of paper, 1000, 2000 and 2500 won't hurt the lens? I just want to make sure I don't damage them, I would never hear the end of that.
Any time you touch any surface with an abrasive, you're obviously going to be doing a little bit of "damage". The thing is, in order to restore the clarity of your headlights, you're going to have to remove material in one manner or another. I polished headlights for most of the major auto dealerships, insurance companies and for private clients in Santiago, Chile, if that helps at all.
The trick is, the rougher the paper, the deeper the scratches. In order to restore clarity to any surface, be it paint or clear plastic, you must remove the scratches. The idea, just as in polishing a car, is to start with the finest paper you can. Keep the lens wet, and go to it. Start with a 3,500 if you can find it, work a small section at a time, stopping frequently to dry your work area and check for progress. If necessary, step up to a heavier grit to get the job done, but then remember to step it back down and finish with the finest paper you can get your hands on. Here in Chile, I was usually limited to 2,500 or 3,000 grit. Once you've sanded out all the scratches and damage, buff it out with the foam pad and plastic polish. The sealant is VERY important. You must now protect your hard work with a sealant. I'm not positive what Meg's has to offer for sealant, maybe one of the mods could help us out with this one, but as for the rest of the process, it's something I've done on hundreds of cars.
Disclaimers:
When working with sand paper, I advise taping off all adjacent surfaces to ensure that you're not removing paint as you pass along the edges.
Always use the least amount of pressure necessary when sanding lenses. Deep scratches take more time to remove than the time it takes to be patient and do a job correctly.
Always start with the least aggressive technique and work your way up as necessary.
Never be afraid to ask more questions to make sure you do the job correctly the first time!
When working with sand paper, I advise taping off all adjacent surfaces to ensure that you're not removing paint as you pass along the edges.
Always use the least amount of pressure necessary when sanding lenses. Deep scratches take more time to remove than the time it takes to be patient and do a job correctly.
Always start with the least aggressive technique and work your way up as necessary.
Never be afraid to ask more questions to make sure you do the job correctly the first time!
Mike Pennington
Director of Global Training, Events and Consumer Relations
Meguiar's, Inc.
800-854-8073 mpennington@meguiars.com
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