If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Re: Is this Oxidation? or Did i ruin my clear coat?
I like the lady bug on the drivers side dash.
Agreed with others, looks like a repaint / replacement on the door. The chrome under the windows doesn't line up with the back door. I'd suspect this to be single stage paint, at least on the back because clearcoat failure doesn't happen on entire sections like that.
Having said that, you can restore the back panels to closer match the other portions. Look at some of the Extreme Makeovers on single stage paint, incredible results!
NOTE: Post count does not reflect actual detailing knowledge.
Re: Is this Oxidation? or Did i ruin my clear coat?
I guess I'll have to test out the entire car to find out whether its single or clear coat finish.
Storm front is headed where i live so i have to put things on hold for a few days.
It gives me more time to read up on things.
As far as if there has been work/repainting done to this car I will have to contact my father since it was his. I dont ever recall anything ever being done to the body expect for the front left fender. but i do agree that the picture just doesnt add up to that statement so I will check.
Re: Is this Oxidation? or Did i ruin my clear coat?
Well its been a rainy week and more is headed my way so I've yet to get started. I still havent determined whether my car is single stage, clear coat or a combination of both. I forgot that back in 1994 my mom got in an accident and the left side of the car had been worked on.
So if its determined that its both single stage and clear coat, how does this affect my detailing? Will I have to use two different types of clay/polish/wax?
So if its determined that its both single stage and clear coat, how does this affect my detailing?
Will I have to use two different types of clay/polish/wax?
The problem looks like the paint in the repaired areas doesn't exactly match the original factory paint and if this is the case there's no product you can pour out of a bottle or scoop out of a can that will fix this problem. The only honest answer or repair is to repaint the car.
If the problem is the repaired areas are single stage and not basecoat/clearcoat then you may be able to get the color of the single stage paint to more closely match the color coat under the factory clear layer by cleaning and polishing really well the single stage paint but from the look of the paint from the pictures, the color different sections looks to far apart to match from just cleaning and polishing.
Mike Phillips 760-515-0444 showcargarage@gmail.com "Find something you like and use it often"
The problem looks like the paint in the repaired areas doesn't exactly match the original factory paint and if this is the case there's no product you can pour out of a bottle or scoop out of a can that will fix this problem. The only honest answer or repair is to repaint the car.
If the problem is the repaired areas are single stage and not basecoat/clearcoat then you may be able to get the color of the single stage paint to more closely match the color coat under the factory clear layer by cleaning and polishing really well the single stage paint but from the look of the paint from the pictures, the color different sections looks to far apart to match from just cleaning and polishing.
This fading of the rear panels is pretty recent and it definitely didnt look like this a year or two ago. Considering the repair took place 15 years ago, couldnt this be just oxidation? I mean we, wouldnt have taken this car back from the dealership (where it was repaired) if the color was off.
would clay->ultimate compound be ok for Single stage paints? I'll try something out before i have to resort to repainting it.
This fading of the rear panels is pretty recent and it definitely didn't look like this a year or two ago.
Considering the repair took place 15 years ago, couldn't this be just oxidation?
Single stage paints oxidize and turn chalky and dull. In many cases you can remove the oxidation , (the topical dead paint), to reveal fresh paint underneath which will usually be the original color.
The first thing to do would be to test this panel using a white colored paint cleaner and a white colored cloth. For example get some Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner or ScratchX, ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound, and apply about a teaspoon of one of these to what you think is oxidized paint and work it over about a 6" square area or so for about 30 seconds to a minute. Now turn your cloth over and inspect.
If it's a single stage paint you should see the color of the paint on the cloth and the area you rubbed should have a refreshed look to it.
If there is no major color transfer and little or no change in the appearance of the paint where you rubbed then this is likely a clear coat finish.
You can do this test in a few minutes if you have any kind of clear coat safe paint cleaner and some kind of white cloth, a white wax applicator pad, a white terry cloth towel, a white microfiber or even a white T-shirt would work for the test.
Let us know what you find out... Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner can be found at just about any auto parts store for around $6.00 so it's not an expensive product and/or test to conduct to find out exactly what you're working on.
Here's this How To article again as posted to the second page of this thread,
would clay->ultimate compound be ok for Single stage paints?
Yes. Clay only removes contaminants that are bonded or stuck to the very top surface, it will do nothing to restore color to oxidized paint or undo the damage from clear coat failure. The Ultimate Compound is a very good tool to have in your arsenal of car care products for whatever car you own and work on.
If it's a single stage paint you should see the color of the paint on the cloth and the area you rubbed should have a refreshed look to it.
If there is no major color transfer and little or no change in the appearance of the paint where you rubbed then this is a single stage paint.
I'm thinking you "mistyped" the latter portion of this statement right because its hurting my brain if you didn't lol. no color transfer/little change = clear coat or single stage?
Also, can the testing can be done ahead of the 5 steps or do i have to wash, wash/clay etc.?
I'm thinking you "mistyped" the latter portion of this statement right because its hurting my brain if you didn't lol. no color transfer/little change = clear coat or single stage?
Also, can the testing can be done ahead of the 5 steps or do i have to wash, wash/clay etc.?
thanks again.
Well the paint needs to be clean where you tested as dirt can skew your test if your paint is the color of dirt or tan... So simply wipe the areas you want to test so there's no surface dirt.
Mike Phillips 760-515-0444 showcargarage@gmail.com "Find something you like and use it often"
Re: Is this Oxidation? or Did i ruin my clear coat?
I bet they repainted the fender and door with BC/CC, and the rest of the car is oxidized SS paint. I'm thinking that the cleaner wax applied by hand will bring the color back, and your car will be matching again in no time
2008 Meguiar's Batmobile Team
2008 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
2009 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
2010 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
The first thing to do would be to test this panel using a white colored paint cleaner and a white colored cloth. For example get some Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner or ScratchX, ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound, and apply about a teaspoon of one of these to what you think is oxidized paint and work it over about a 6" square area or so for about 30 seconds to a minute. Now turn your cloth over and inspect.
I just got a bottle of UC from walmart.
Whats the proper technique to do the spot test by hand? I read somewhere that youre not suppose to use your finger tips to apply pressure with compounds right? how much pressure do I use? plus any additional info i should know and lookout for while applying UC.
Re: Is this Oxidation? or Did i ruin my clear coat?
Do about a 1ftx1ft test spot on your car using a yellow Foam applicator pad. You have to apply moderate to firm pressure when doing this. Afterward evaluate your results and continue. After Doing the car, put NXT 2.0 wax on it.
Comment