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A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

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  • #31
    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Chris,
    on the pad cleaning, I usually clean the pad after every panel or every other panel, depending on the condition of the pad. Ever since I bought a pad washer that's what I use to clean the pads with on the fly. Would you re-prime the pad after using the pad washer to clean it with? It will be slightly damp (I usually hold up a towel to the pad to remove the excess moisture after spinning it in open air on the rotary). I think I read where you have to change the pad and let that one dry completely?

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    • #32
      Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

      Yes, after cleaning the pad with a soft brush, the pad should be reprimed. There will be some residual product after cleaning, but it is a good idea to make sure there is fresh polish in the pad.

      I prefer to let the pad dry before buffing. There will be some residual water, which could thin out the polish.
      Chris
      Dasher Detailing Services

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      • #33
        Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

        Originally posted by resek View Post
        Thanks a lot Chris!
        Very good info there!
        Good thing about M95, i was about to use the "priming" method for it ... but since it's a diminishing abrasive, i won't use this method.


        A thread about DAT vs. SMAT and a post from Mike Pennington regarding the type of compound that M95 is.
        http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23748



        M95 vs. M105 threads
        http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26534

        http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26805


        I bet M95 would work with the "KB method".

        Comment

        • #34
          Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

          Originally posted by TerryAdams View Post
          A thread about DAT vs. SMAT and a post from Mike Pennington regarding the type of compound that M95 is.
          http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23748



          M95 vs. M105 threads
          http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26534

          http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26805


          I bet M95 would work with the "KB method".
          Thanks Terry for those links!
          I'll give M95 a try with "KBM".

          Comment

          • #35
            Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

            I am sure many were thinking spray to prime the pad,thanks for the clarification.I have always primed with spray before priming with the working product.
            roger

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            • #36
              Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

              Does anyone have any of the above photos for the KB method explanation/procedure hosted somewhere differently from Photobucket?? For some reason my computer hates Photobucket links... HELP!!!?

              Comment

              • #37
                Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                Hey everyone,

                I thought I would give you guys a little sample of Kevin's paper. One of the most important topics covered is pad priming. Although it may seem simple, I wanted to clear up some confusion.


                When I refer to pad priming, I am referring to the liquid that will be used in polishing - not a spray detailer.

                M105, M205, M86, D151, SwirlX, ScratchX 2.0, and Ultimate Compound use abrasives that are uniform and non-diminishing (SMAT). That means that they are very different than most products that use abrasives that break down. These products that use non-diminishing abrasives rely heavily on the lubricant. If there is too much lubricant, then the cut will be reduced because the abrasive is floating in lubricant. If there is too little lubricant, then the product will "flash" very quickly and you will need to reapply product.

                The best way to utilize the products listed above (non-diminishing or SMAT) is to prime the pad. To do so, take the product and pour some on the pad. Then, rub it in. You are not trying to spread butter on toast! Aggressively rub the product into the pad until the entire surface is covered.


                To show the method, I chose M205 and a W9207 finishing pad.


                Below is an example of a poorly primed pad. As you can see, the product has completely filled in each of the pores. This will waste product and reduce the cut.



                Here is what a properly primed pad should look like. The pores are not filled with product, but there is still product available in the pores.



                To give you a better idea of what the pores look like, I took a macro shot of the above pad properly primed with M205.




                Hope that helps!
                Chris
                Dasher Detailing Services

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                • #38
                  Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                  THAT is fantastic.. Thank you so much Chris! You sir, are a master of your craft Thanks!

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                  • #39
                    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                    I have a question. Would there be any benefits by priming an applicator pad (working by hand)? I plan on doing this this weekend using the Hi Tech Applicator pads and UC.
                    For those who fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

                    736th GunTrucks "Bakersfield to Bagdad"

                    Wife say's I'm "obsessed"!

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                    • #40
                      Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                      I doubt it. When working by hand, the product should easily spread on the applicator. If it does not, then you do not have enough product on the pad.
                      Chris
                      Dasher Detailing Services

                      Comment

                      • #41
                        Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                        I know this is an old thread, but I was recently taught to prime the pad with something like Final Inspection. A couple sprays, then apply the product.

                        The problem I see with priming the pad using the method like this, is the amount of product you're using. I was also taught to clean the pad after a panel because of all the debris and paint gets stuck on the pad. So if you have to re-prime again after each panel, wouldn't that be a lot of wasted product?
                        2006 San Remo Red WRX TR
                        2005 Ford Ranger XLT

                        Detailers clean places nobody see. Detailer see's things nobody else see. But if you ask a Detailer to see how a dress looks on a woman, they are blind.

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                        • #42
                          Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                          Originally posted by Caress Detailing View Post
                          I know this is an old thread, but I was recently taught to prime the pad with something like Final Inspection. A couple sprays, then apply the product.

                          The problem I see with priming the pad using the method like this, is the amount of product you're using. I was also taught to clean the pad after a panel because of all the debris and paint gets stuck on the pad. So if you have to re-prime again after each panel, wouldn't that be a lot of wasted product?

                          I think you only prime a pad when you get a new pad.
                          Nick
                          Tucker's Detailing Services
                          815-954-0773
                          2012 Ford Transit Connect

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                          • #43
                            Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                            Originally posted by Caress Detailing View Post
                            I know this is an old thread, but I was recently taught to prime the pad with something like Final Inspection. A couple sprays, then apply the product.

                            The problem I see with priming the pad using the method like this, is the amount of product you're using. I was also taught to clean the pad after a panel because of all the debris and paint gets stuck on the pad. So if you have to re-prime again after each panel, wouldn't that be a lot of wasted product?
                            Just to confirm, the use of M34 is recommended only for rotary polishing. However, I find that a spray detailer can dilute the non-diminishing abrasive liquid and reduce the cut. If you are just using a diminishing abrasive product, then there is nothing wrong with using a spray detailer.

                            It really does not use a lot of excess product. Instead of applying a full circle, just prime the pad and add two or three dots of product. You should be good to go after that.

                            It's always best to clean the pad as often as possible. I clean it at least one time per section. After cleaning, I will prime the pad and add a few dots. The idea is to make sure there is fresh product available at all times.
                            Chris
                            Dasher Detailing Services

                            Comment

                            • #44
                              Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                              Chris, have you found that the amount of polish you use per section (2 or 3 dots) also applies to SwirlX and Ultimate Compound?
                              Swirls hide in the black molecular depths, only waiting for the right time to emerge and destroy your sanity.
                              --Al Kimel

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                              • #45
                                Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

                                Thanks Chris.

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