A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method - Page 4
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  1. #31
    Registered Member Tom Weed's Avatar
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Chris,
    on the pad cleaning, I usually clean the pad after every panel or every other panel, depending on the condition of the pad. Ever since I bought a pad washer that's what I use to clean the pads with on the fly. Would you re-prime the pad after using the pad washer to clean it with? It will be slightly damp (I usually hold up a towel to the pad to remove the excess moisture after spinning it in open air on the rotary). I think I read where you have to change the pad and let that one dry completely?

  2. #32
    Person PorscheGuy997's Avatar
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Yes, after cleaning the pad with a soft brush, the pad should be reprimed. There will be some residual product after cleaning, but it is a good idea to make sure there is fresh polish in the pad.

    I prefer to let the pad dry before buffing. There will be some residual water, which could thin out the polish.
    Chris
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  3. #33
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Quote Originally Posted by resek View Post
    Thanks a lot Chris!
    Very good info there!
    Good thing about M95, i was about to use the "priming" method for it ... but since it's a diminishing abrasive, i won't use this method.


    A thread about DAT vs. SMAT and a post from Mike Pennington regarding the type of compound that M95 is.
    http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23748


    M95 vs. M105 threads
    http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=26534
    http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=26805

    I bet M95 would work with the "KB method".

  4. #34
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Quote Originally Posted by TerryAdams View Post
    A thread about DAT vs. SMAT and a post from Mike Pennington regarding the type of compound that M95 is.
    http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23748


    M95 vs. M105 threads
    http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=26534
    http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=26805

    I bet M95 would work with the "KB method".
    Thanks Terry for those links!
    I'll give M95 a try with "KBM".

  5. #35
    DETAIL ARTIST roger 668's Avatar
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    I am sure many were thinking spray to prime the pad,thanks for the clarification.I have always primed with spray before priming with the working product.
    roger

  6. #36
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Does anyone have any of the above photos for the KB method explanation/procedure hosted somewhere differently from Photobucket?? For some reason my computer hates Photobucket links... HELP!!!?

  7. #37
    Person PorscheGuy997's Avatar
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    Hey everyone,

    I thought I would give you guys a little sample of Kevin's paper. One of the most important topics covered is pad priming. Although it may seem simple, I wanted to clear up some confusion.


    When I refer to pad priming, I am referring to the liquid that will be used in polishing - not a spray detailer.

    M105, M205, M86, D151, SwirlX, ScratchX 2.0, and Ultimate Compound use abrasives that are uniform and non-diminishing (SMAT). That means that they are very different than most products that use abrasives that break down. These products that use non-diminishing abrasives rely heavily on the lubricant. If there is too much lubricant, then the cut will be reduced because the abrasive is floating in lubricant. If there is too little lubricant, then the product will "flash" very quickly and you will need to reapply product.

    The best way to utilize the products listed above (non-diminishing or SMAT) is to prime the pad. To do so, take the product and pour some on the pad. Then, rub it in. You are not trying to spread butter on toast! Aggressively rub the product into the pad until the entire surface is covered.


    To show the method, I chose M205 and a W9207 finishing pad.


    Below is an example of a poorly primed pad. As you can see, the product has completely filled in each of the pores. This will waste product and reduce the cut.



    Here is what a properly primed pad should look like. The pores are not filled with product, but there is still product available in the pores.



    To give you a better idea of what the pores look like, I took a macro shot of the above pad properly primed with M205.




    Hope that helps!
    Chris
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  8. #38
    Rogue Statüs tylorweaver's Avatar
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    THAT is fantastic.. Thank you so much Chris! You sir, are a master of your craft Thanks!

  9. #39
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    I have a question. Would there be any benefits by priming an applicator pad (working by hand)? I plan on doing this this weekend using the Hi Tech Applicator pads and UC.
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  10. #40
    Person PorscheGuy997's Avatar
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    Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

    I doubt it. When working by hand, the product should easily spread on the applicator. If it does not, then you do not have enough product on the pad.
    Chris
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