A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

Chris, have you found that the amount of polish you use per section (2 or 3 dots) also applies to SwirlX and Ultimate Compound?

SwirlX and Ultimate Compound have very different consistencies. I find that the three dots are necessary for SwirlX. Ultimate Compound is thinner, so I may only use two small dots.

Too much product on the surface is a bad thing. There are a number of factors that go into choosing the amount of product to use - pad, product, machine, humidity, etc. It's all about finding what works best for you.

[Caress Detailing]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

Just to confirm, the use of M34 is recommended only for rotary polishing. However, I find that a spray detailer can dilute the non-diminishing abrasive liquid and reduce the cut. If you are just using a diminishing abrasive product, then there is nothing wrong with using a spray detailer.

It really does not use a lot of excess product. Instead of applying a full circle, just prime the pad and add two or three dots of product. You should be good to go after that.

It's always best to clean the pad as often as possible. I clean it at least one time per section. After cleaning, I will prime the pad and add a few dots. The idea is to make sure there is fresh product available at all times.

I see, I'm learning stuff everyday

[rusty bumper]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

It really does not use a lot of excess product. Instead of applying a full circle, just prime the pad and add two or three dots of product. You should be good to go after that.

It's always best to clean the pad as often as possible. I clean it at least one time per section. After cleaning, I will prime the pad and add a few dots. The idea is to make sure there is fresh product available at all times.

Sounds like a lot of work...maybe I've been doing it wrong or something.

When using D151, for example, the pad tends to collect embedded product on the surface, and I use a brush to remove the residue with...however, the pad is still damp. Even though the pad feels damp, I am supposed to re-prime the pad?

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

Sounds like a lot of work...maybe I've been doing it wrong or something.

When using D151, for example, the pad tends to collect embedded product on the surface, and I use a brush to remove the residue with...however, the pad is still damp. Even though the pad feels damp, I am supposed to re-prime the pad?

After cleaning the pad, I usually re-prime the pad. It's always best to have fresh product in the pores. After cleaning the pad, there will be a lower amount of abrasive particles in the pad. If you want to maximize the amount of abrasives and cutting power, it's best to re-prime the pad.

[rms]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

Thank you for this post. Great advice!!

[silverjag]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

I apologize for the incredibly ignorant question, but when you guys refer to cleaning the pad, do you use Mike's method, where you run the pad on a MF towel?

How often do you guys clean the pad? Usually I clean it 5-6 times on my small car according to the above method.

Am I wrong in doing so? I just need a clarification here - Thanks!

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

I only clean my pad a few different ways.

The first option is to clean it on the fly with a microfiber. While cotton terry can be substituted, I try not to use this method (the cotton terry can leave micromarring on sensitive finishes).

The second, and one of the best, is to use compressed air. By blowing out the pad, you are removing the liquid and spent polish. This lets you use a pad for a longer time before switching to another.

The third option is to use a pad cleaning system - System 2000 or Grit Guard. While both of them work, they leave water in the pad, which is not a great thing.

The fourth option is to use a soft brush or spur. While it does remove the spent polish, there is some liquid left over. Plus, this method cannot be used with a DA.

I go to the extreme and clean my pad as often as possible. Usually, I divide a panel into two sections. When I switch sections, I clean the pad. For example, I divide a door into two parts. Once one side is completed, the pad is cleaned. But, this is all relative to which product, pad, machine, and defect to be removed. If the paint is heavily oxidized and the scratches are deep, the pad may need to be cleaned much more often. The end choice is up to you, but I prefer to play it safe and clean the pad as often as possible.

[V.I.P.E.R]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

I was wondering where the full write up of the KBM was i wanted to read it fully.
Also is there any videos on this method from him or someone who knows the correct way as there are so many doing this wrong with wrong info. i don't know what is true and false.

[rusty bumper]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

I was wondering where the full write up of the KBM was i wanted to read it fully.
Also is there any videos on this method from him or someone who knows the correct way as there are so many doing this wrong with wrong info. i don't know what is true and false.

There was a thread on Autopia about this method, but I haven't kept up with it. Kevin went a little more in depth there.

[greymda]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

do you prime a MF pad just like a foam pad?

[The Guz]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

do you prime a MF pad just like a foam pad?

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?47855-Using-Meguiar-s-D-A-Microfiber-Correction-System

[greymda]

Re: A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

thanks!