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  1. #11
    Detailing Dunce akimel's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    Quote Originally Posted by PorscheGuy997 View Post
    Yes, after priming the pad, I usually add four dots. After that, I switch to ~three dots.

    I find that a circle is too much product for the area I usually work.
    I'm beginning to think that that using too much product may have been one of several technical flaws causing last week's polishing debacle. I was very concerned, perhaps excessively concerned, that a lubricating film always be present between pad and surface. I would clean the pad on the fly after each polishing set, and so assume that I needed a fresh "circle" or "X" of polish.
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  2. #12
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    One thing we cover in the Saturday classes that sometimes gets left out of usually lengthy and already detailed replies is that after you've broken a clean, dry pad in, (now it's wet with product), you can reduce the amount of product you're applying to the face of the foam pad depending upon what you're working on and trying to accomplish. If you over-use your product you can hyper-lubricate the surface and actually make it harder for the abrasives to do their work, so it's important to find balance for your exact situation, (temp, humidity, paint, skill and style).

    This could be 2/3rds of a circle of product, or only half of an X shape, or however you like to apply the product to the face of your foam pad.

    Mike Phillips
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  3. #13
    Registered Member 10degreesbtdc's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    I hate to ask dumb questions, but...there's no such thing as a dumb question, right?

    I'm sure the answer before I ask is; it depends on the area I'm working, temp, humidity, etc. and the whole idea is to have a sufficiently lubricated pad so...learning to apply when necessary and not over-apply is the key. If I understand the whole point of priming it's to have product on the entire pad and not have a dry pad marring the paint?

    My question; Since it's recommended to clean the pad often, How does this affect a primed pad? If I clean after 2 or 3 passes with a cloth or compressed air and there is dry product on the pad because it's a warm day which is now removed after cleaning...should I prime again or just reapply a small amount? This question is geared more towards rotary use than DA since it seems to be more difficult to maintain the proper amount of product for pad lubrication with the more aggressive tool. And it's easier to buff to a shine with a rotary, which is working the product too long during the correction process. Thanks!

  4. #14
    Person PorscheGuy997's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    The idea of pad priming is to speed up the way the polish spreads on the pad and to make sure there is polish available in every pore of the pad. Without priming the pad, it might take a few passes before the pad surface has product in every pore. Even then, the product might not be evenly distributed.

    By having the product available in every pore, you are increasing the cut of the pad. At the same time, you are decreasing the chances of producing a pad generated defect.

    This is getting into Kevin's paper, but it's worth it...
    There are number of ways to clean the pad, but some are better than others. Cleaning the pad with a terry or microfiber towel can leave fibers in the pad. These can leave micromarring in some cases. Compressed air or a new pad are the best solutions. There is definately a point when a new pad is in need. The pad will soak up product and slow down the polisher.

    To be on the safe side, I usually prime the pad after it has been cleaned. But, it can lead to overpriming and decreased cut. After the pad has been primed, used, and cleaned, I apply two dots of product. This is what I have found to work best, but you can always use whatever method you find best.
    Chris
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  5. #15
    aka: 23jam J. A. Michaels's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    I have found that when cleanin the pad on the fly, you do not completely remove all the product. The pad does not become dry. You are just removing the excess product. This allows the pad to accept more product for the next section you are working on.

    Hope this helps.
    quality creates its own demand

  6. #16
    Registered Member 10degreesbtdc's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    Thanks for the "detailed" explanation, guys. I've heard a lot about Kevin Brown's "paper". Is that posted somewhere or how can I get it? Can I get it? It sounds very, very interesting!

  7. #17
    Person PorscheGuy997's Avatar
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    Unfortunately, it has not been released. Kevin should have it done by the end of the month.
    Chris
    Dasher Detailing Services

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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    Finishing with M205. Can't seem to find the info about KB adding 10-15 drops to a 32oz bottle of water and spritzing to finish.
    Is this how you do it?

  9. #19
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    Re: Kevin Brown method?

    Check out Kevin's web site...www.buffdaddy.com .

    The answerers should be there.

    Bill

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