Help, used PC and paint has haze

[Motionless]

I have used my PC7424 numerous times on my BMW with great results. This weekend I used it on my 2002 white 4runner to remove discoloration and oxidation. After applying the items below, the paint has come out brilliant white. My problem is the shine is hazy and has less wet look or gloss than sections of the car I did not touch. I used the following items in order.

Meguiars Medium-cut cleaner #1 on a LC yellow pad
Meguiars Fine-cut cleaner #2 on a LC white polishing pad
Klasse All-in-One polish on a LC white polishing pad
Meguiars gold class liquid wax hand applied.

When applying the medium-cut cleaner, I worked in small sections and worked it in until it was dry completely dry, which caused some caking on the pad. What can I do to remedy what I have done? I'm in the market for new pads anyways, so maybe I used the wrong ones.

I only did the hood and fenders and will not do anymore until I can figure out why the parts I have worked on are not as glossy as the untouched sections.

Thanks for the help and suggestions

[Tuck91]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

I dont think your supposed to work the product in when its completly dry. I am not familiar with the Klasse stuff but after you used M02 you may need to step down to something less aggressive, such as M09.

Hopefully others will chime in.

[akimel]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

I believe that M01 Medium Cut Cleaner is formulated just for rotary application. As I understand it, the PC does not generate sufficient heat and pressure to break down the diminishing abrasives sufficiently--hence the hazing. M02, on the other hand, is approved for the PC--I would have thought that it would have removed the hazing.

You might try one of Meguiar's new polishes, like SwirlX or M205, or perhaps a cleaner wax like ColorX or M66.

The MOL experts will be weighing in soon with sound advice.

[02zx9r]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

I would think swirlx or M205 would remove the hazing.

I was helping a buddy with a black truck and it was his first time using a PC and he had some slight hazing, I did not have my 205 but had some Pinnacle xmt ultra fine swirl remover, used that with a white LC pad and it removed it.

Not sure where the cut would fall in compared to M205, but I would assume it would be a little less aggressive than the 205, maybe a 2 or a 3, not really sure though

[Bounty]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

Meguiars Medium-cut cleaner #1 on a LC yellow pad

This is where the majority of your hazing is being caused. The Lake Country yellow foam (whether it's CCS or Flat) is the most mechanically abrasive pad they make. Unfortunately the random orbital action of the PC7424 and G110 polishers creates a "scrubbing" action that generates micromarring on many finishes. I'd highly recommend putting that aside for an Orange or Green pad from LC.

When applying the medium-cut cleaner, I worked in small sections and worked it in until it was dry completely dry, which caused some caking on the pad.

Do not wait for it to dry. Work the product until it has broken down its abrasives....not until it disappears. Dry product plus harsh pad material is what is casing the induced damage to the finish.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

My problem is the shine is hazy and has less wet look or gloss than sections of the car I did not touch. I used the following items in order.

Meguiars Medium-cut cleaner #1 on a LC yellow pad

When applying the medium-cut cleaner, I worked in small sections and worked it in until it was dry completely dry, which caused some caking on the pad.

If you look at the back label on your bottle of #1 Medium Cut Cleaner, where it says, Directions: It will say, "For use with rotary buffer only". So that's part of the problem.

Never work any Meguiar's paint cleaners, compounds or any paint correction product till it's dry and caking up. When you buff till the paint goes dry you've lost lubrication and this creates the potential for hazing or micro-marring. You would never run your car's motor with no oil because the bearings and cylinder walls need lubrication or you'll seize the engine.

Since this was you're first post to our forum you might not know that we teach people to always do a Test Spot before going over any of the rest of the car. After doing a Test Spot you then inspect the results in two kinds of light to make sure you're getting the results you're hoping for and wanting. If after you do your Test Spot you see a problem, then you're encouraged to post back here what it is you're seeing and we'll do our best to help modify your process till you're getting great results in your Test Spot.

The idea being to keep you from buffing out the rest of the car if your process isn't working because all this will do is cause you to have to do the car, or the sections you've buffed over again.


Chance are good that if you get the right product for use with a machine that oscillates, for example Ultimate Compound or SwirlX you can remove the haze and restore a high gloss, clear finish but you won't know until you do some testing with one or both of the products.

In most cases you would test first with the least aggressive product which would be the SwirlX and see if it's strong enough to remove the haze. If not, then you would test out the more aggressive Ultimate Compound.

The idea being to find which combination of pad and product will work on this specific paint system. Paints are different and each car you work on you always want to do a Test Spot and dial in a system that's giving you GREAT results from the very beginning and once you prove this to yourself in two kinds of light, then you go around the entire car.

Be careful with foam cutting pads because all by themselves they can causing paint hazing due to their aggressive foam structure.

If you haven't read this, please take a moment to read through it and make sure you're not making any of the normal mistakes.

How To use: G110 - G220 - G100 - PC/Porter Cable - UDM
If you're moving up to machine polishing, be sure to read the below thread before starting...
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

TEST SPOT

Doing A Test-Spot

Before going over the entire car, see if you can make just one small section look good, that is apply the product you're planning on using over the entire car to just one small section about a foot squared or so. Work it in and then wipe it off, then apply the polish, work it in but not as much as the compound because now you're not trying to remove paint, just spread the product out, then immediately wipe it off, then apply the wax and let it fully dry and then wipe it off.

Now inspect our results. Make sure you can make one small section look GREAT before going over then entire car. If you can't make one small section look GREAT you won't be able to make the entire car look GREAT.

Make sense?

It should look like this,




And if you're having any problems, the post back here after the test section and we'll help you tweak your technique to insure you get it right.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

Also, no matter whose chemicals you're using or foam pads, one thing you want to be doing is cleaning your pad often, by the word often we mean after every other application of material, that is you apply product to the pad and then work a section, that's one time. You apply product to the face of our pad and work a section, that's two times. Now clean your pad. Work a section, that's one time, work a new section that's two times, now clean your pad.

Clean your pad every other time you work product on the paint. You always want to work clean and this means wiping the spent residue off the paint before applying fresh product and cleaning any spent product and the paint you're removing off the car, from the face of your foam pad so you don't mix this in with fresh product.

You'll get better results faster.

Cleaning Your Pad On The Fly

Here's Cisco from one of our recent Saturday Detailing Classes learning how to clean a pad on the fly

[Motionless]

Re: Help, used PC and paint has haze

Great. I will ditch the medium-cut #1 and the yellow pad.

Looking at some Swirl Remover 2.0 on a LC white polishing pad to remove the haze. Would this be the right pad product combo?

Reading about the product on Autogeek, the Swirl remover 2.0 and Ultra finish polish 205 both seem to similar products. What is the difference in the two besides one says glaze and one says polish?

Should I have used the fine-cut #2 on a LC orange light cutting pad as my most abrasive pass? Or not even use fine-cut at all? Prior to me creating the haze my goal was to remove light oxidation and swirl marks as well as color imperfections in the white paint.

Thanks again for the advise, trying to round up items and get an order in to try to correct the haze this weekend.