Hard Clear Coat ?

[g88]

Before this the car already have quite have RDS, so today just wetsand it with 2000 grit (unfortunately without sanding block) only hand...

Then M105 with Purple Foam Wool@ average 1000-1500RPM, gloss seem back but when view at night i saw this






How do i 'cure' this ? My friend said my 'freestyle' sanding is too deep and instead solving the problem i created another...he suggested me to grab 3000 grit and sand it again ??

Or should i get a sanding disc. My place here only can get 3M 1500 grit the max..

[Eddie6th]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

Hi.Firstly,I'd recommend you watch this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6PyXbrNbsE

You should have used a block to sand with.Going by hand over large areas is too inconsistent.Also you need to sand in straight lines,no circling.

You should have taped off a square foot and worked in that area to see how it compared.

I wouldn't use a sanding disk.You should be able to get at least a 2500grit paper from an auto shop supplier.

You're going to need a rubbing compound here.I don't know all the Meg's pro line no.s,so another member here will help you out with that.I'll go and have a look.

[Justin A]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

M105 is advertised as being able to remove 1200g sanding marks.

On fresh paint, I can remove 3000g sanding marks with M83, but on fully cured paint it doesn't stand a chance.

I'd recommend M105 for your problem.

[Maserati Mario]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

You need to use 105 again.
It will remove the sanding marks, just it some more.
You don't need a sanding block either

[g88]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

You need to use 105 again.
It will remove the sanding marks, just it some more.
You don't need a sanding block either

you mean my working time isn't long enough or too long ( i am getting dust after running 2-3 passes) or perhaps too little product ?

[g88]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

anymore input.

[Maserati Mario]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

2 or 3 passes obviously isn't working.
Dust? Are you afraid of dust?
I use a few drops of 105 and it works.
I use as little product as possible.
If the scratches aren't gone, then they need more work.
Work it until there gone.

[8GC]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

anymore input.

Bro, try 4 ply wool pad if ur cc is especially hard. To remove sanding mark on hard cc is not 2-3 passes, need more passes & passion, best to check with high lumens led.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

Morning,

Let's see if we can help you do this the correct way.

At this point we need to be very concerned as to how much clear coat is actually left from the previous sanding process. Is this the factory OEM paint? If so, it is already very thin and most likely very hard. I would suggest finding a reputable shop that has a paint thickness gauge to find out how much paint you are working with. If from several measurements from around the car, it can be surmised that you have enough CC to continue sanding a little further, then you will have to decide how far to go.

However, I would suggest taking it to a shop or a reputable detailer that has references, and not self proclaimed experience, that specializes in sanding and/or custom paint unless you feel you have adequate knowledge and skill to wet sand/buff out the finish.

Disclaimer: If you decide to do this yourself, be aware that if you burn through the CC, only a repaint will fix it. So proceed at your own risk.

First off, you do need a sanding block as using your fingers will create uneven sanding mark depths and other issues, The end result can be waves in the paint or worse, uneven cut leading deep marring that can not be fixed by buffing. It is OK to feather sand a small mark by hand, but not a whole panel.

If you decide to go forward doing this yourself, and again, be advised that factory paint is very thin and is easy to burn through, not just from the sanding of the paint but from the buffing required to remove sanding marks in order to level the paint.

First thing, you definitely need a sanding block! Meguiar's makes a really good and affordable block, the E-7200. You will also need the best quality sanding papers like Meguiar's Unigrit papers. Meguiar's Unigrit provide a uniform cut that makes sanding mark removal easier. I would suggest using either 2500 grit or even 3000 grit. By going to finer papers you are effectively leveling the paint to the point where a buffer and right products can remove the sanding marks.

Take the papers and place in a bucket of water with a few drops of Meguiar's #00 Hi-Tech Soap. This will aid in keeping the papers clean and not clogging up as fast. You will also need a spray bottle with water and a few drops of #00 soap as well. Be sure to saturate the area with water and then sand in one direction only. Use the sanding block as a squeegee to remove the water and sanding slurry to see your progress.

Now using a rotary polisher and wool pad like Meguiar's M5000 combined with M105, use a rotary speed of ~1300-1500 rpm. You will now need to buff small sections and see if the sanding marks are coming off, and they should. Do not stay in any spot too long as M105 is VERY aggressive and will remove paint quickly. If this does not do it, then report back as we now have a bigger problem...



For the members of MOL: Wet sanding is not as safe and simple as some novices seem to think. It is further complicated when they post erroneous information from their actual lack of experience! To be clear, wet sanding is not something to take lightly and should only be attempted after much practice and experience. Rarely is it wise to wet sand a factory paint as it is very thin and it takes very little paint removal to compromise the longevity of the paint. Most experts believe that removing more than .3 - .5 mils, the CC will deteriorate and fail in short order. Further, wet sanding is easy, but the removal of the sanding marks is not. Often from using an incorrect procedure, you can have left over tracers making their removal almost impossible.

Another problem is sanding a section of a panel and not the whole panel. Once you start sanding a door, that whole side will need to be done as the door will stand out badly. By sanding a small scratch in a door for example, you will be leveling the paint and removing the orange peel in that area only! The end result is a panel that has waves as the leveled paint stands out horribly against the not leveled rest of the door. Picture orange peel, then leveled, and them orange peel from the top down on the door. It will look awful. There are a few skilled detailers who have the ability to judge how much they are removing, and yet only go deep enough to level the peaks of the orange peel and not fully remove them. It takes YEARS of experience to do this method correctly so that the area is blended properly.

Finally wet sanding is mostly reserved for custom painted vehicles as the painter can lay extra coats of CC in anticipation of leveling the paint through sanding. After being painted, the paint is soft and workable, but caution must be used as the paint is is still out-gassing and curing. Aggressive buffing can wrinkle paint, especially if a flex agent was added to the paint! It is not advised to wet sanding factory paint as the CC is just not thick enough. Further the sanding mark removal takes a lot of know-how otherwise the sanding marks, which may appear gone under halogens will show up again under the sun.

To the OP, we will do what we can to help you fix the problem. Please keep us in the loop each step of the way!

Tim

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

I hate to close this thread for the fact that g88 really needs help, but there are some posts that need to be addressed by the moderators so the thread is going to be temporarily locked.

Clarification will be posted when the thread is re-opened.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

I have re-opened the thread but I would like to remind everyone that we are hear to help each other, and in this case we want to help g88 as much as possible.

Let's focus on the problem at hand and try our best to stay on the topic as hand only.

Thank you.

Mark

[Eddie6th]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

Hi Mark.
Right, I remember this thread from yesterday and seen that you closed it. I just want to clear up something here, and that is that I did 'not' recommend that the person wetsand his paintwork. If I recall well, I don't think anyone did.

Anyway, to the point. Yes, we are all here to help & learn. Unfortunately, the person here started something without any knowledge or experience with what he was trying to achieve.

So, let's see if we can help.....

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

No worries Eddie, your post was perfectly fine

[yalerd]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

I agree with Tim

We don't know for sure how much CC you've removed. I would try getting a reading to see if you can continue sanding and you'll still have some more for compounding.

If you continue using M105 can cause some more damage, since M105 is a very aggressive product and removes a lot of clear coat so the first thing I would do is try getting a reading and then come back with your findings so we can help fix this out

[Eddie6th]

Re: Hard Clear Coat ?

No worries Eddie, your post was perfectly fine

thank you Mark.