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Beginner!!!!

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  • Beginner!!!!

    Help?>>>

    I bought a '99 Ford Ranger for my two high schoolers. One of the reasons I got a decent deal on it, is that it had been attacked with super-glue sometime in the past and, in general, had been used roughly (driven through the bush etc.).

    No big deal, I figure - the perfect car to learn a bit about buffing on....?

    I've collected some stuff - can someone tell me where to go from here?

    So far, I've only begun the hood - and, no doubt, screwed it up a bit. One of the first "remedies" for super glue found on the internet is brake and carb cleaner... - probably ate through some clear coat (and into paint?)... But I trudge on... I used some heavier wet sand paper - 400? 600? - The glue is off... that's where I begin... Should I just keep going with some 1000 and 2000 grit papers?

    Then... I bought a buffer (Porter Cable 7424xp) - real pretty thing, but I notice that rpms are 2500-6000 - and I watch the videos here that say 1500 rpm is better...???

    I have an assortment of "Lake Country" pads - two terry bonnets - one wool pad - a spur cleaner... and three Meguiars products (#1 medium cut, #2 fine cut, and #9 swirl remover)

    What steps from here?...

    Thanks!!

  • #2
    Re: Beginner!!!!

    The 400 paper is heavy,but you've already used it.

    Can you upload some pics? This would help out.

    Are you picking up any paint/color on your cloth? You might already be past the clearcoat. I hope not,but any further sanding ontop of what you have already done,might do just that.

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    • #3
      Re: Beginner!!!!

      Originally posted by NewGuy2 View Post
      One of the first "remedies" for super glue found on the internet is brake and carb cleaner... - probably ate through some clear coat (and into paint?)...
      If non of them worked the best thing would be to clean the paint with a paint cleaner to remove any product left behind and to be sure that no brake cleaner is present on the surface.

      Originally posted by NewGuy2 View Post
      But I trudge on... I used some heavier wet sand paper - 400? 600? - The glue is off... that's where I begin... Should I just keep going with some 1000 and 2000 grit papers?
      If you sanded with a 400 grit sand paper that is way too aggressive. I hope you still have clear coat left. To take those sanding scratches out you would have to keep sanding with higher grit so that you can remove them.

      Originally posted by NewGuy2 View Post
      Then... I bought a buffer (Porter Cable 7424xp) - real pretty thing, but I notice that rpms are 2500-6000 - and I watch the videos here that say 1500 rpm is better...???
      You have a Dual Action Polisher (DA), it's a good machine but it's not intended to remove sanding marks, it's not recommended to count on a machine like this for the job. I'm not saying that people have not done this type of job, some have removed and have had great success but that's not the majority and results vary.

      Since it's a DA, this machines goes from 2500 to 6000 OPM, not RPM, different things.

      A rotary buffer is the machine to have in hand for a job like this, but again this machine is not as safe as a DA and you'll need experience and knowledge do a job like this.

      Originally posted by NewGuy2 View Post
      I have an assortment of "Lake Country" pads - two terry bonnets - one wool pad - a spur cleaner... and three Meguiars products (#1 medium cut, #2 fine cut, and #9 swirl remover)
      I would get some Ultimate Compound or M105 Ultra-Cut Compound to try to get those sanding marks out of the finish.

      Best thing to do it, stop whatever you are doing. On the section you sanded take some #9 Swirl Remover and with a terry cloth towel make some passes and see if you have some kind of paint transfer from the surface to the cloth, if you do chances are that you have no clear coat in that section. Knowing this you can decide if you want to try to "fix" the appearance or just paint the panel and have it fixed.

      We have here to help out

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