Paint Needs to Breathe - Page 2
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 36

Thread: Paint Needs to Breathe

          
  1. #11
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    12
    Rep Power
    16
    Comments? I came across this thread while searching for any special considerations when detailing a 2006 Chrysler 300c with a ten day old, factory fresh paint. I must have ran out of steam toward the end of the article since I only noticed the following sentence on my second reading.
    If all the paint on the car is the factory original paint, then it was baked on at the factory as it traveled down the assembly line and was completely cured before it left the assembly plant and it is perfectly safe to apply a coating of waxy or a paint sealant.
    While I was first reading the article, I was shaking my head from side-to-side since I've been under the impression that modern factory paint jobs are good to go when delivered to the customer, i.e., with the painted car going through multiple oven zones where the paint is baked with radiation and convection heat, all the outgassing that needs to occur before the initial waxing should already been occurred at the factory.

    DOH, that's just what you said, and what I missed first go around. So my comment is that I'd like to see the above quoted passage near the very beginning of the of the article.

    Stu

  2. #12
    Registered Member RamAirV1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,990
    Rep Power
    37
    Originally posted by rsa
    Comments? I came across this thread while searching for any special considerations when detailing a 2006 Chrysler 300c with a ten day old, factory fresh paint. I must have ran out of steam toward the end of the article since I only noticed the following sentence on my second reading. While I was first reading the article, I was shaking my head from side-to-side since I've been under the impression that modern factory paint jobs are good to go when delivered to the customer, i.e., with the painted car going through multiple oven zones where the paint is baked with radiation and convection heat, all the outgassing that needs to occur before the initial waxing should already been occurred at the factory.

    DOH, that's just what you said, and what I missed first go around. So my comment is that I'd like to see the above quoted passage near the very beginning of the of the article.

    Stu
    What color is the 300C? I love that car, it's my favorite 4 door! If I had to buy a 4 door, that would be it. Please post pics when you are done detailing it.

    RamAirV1

  3. #13
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Stuart, Florida
    Age
    58
    Posts
    24,767
    Rep Power
    518
    Originally posted by rsa
    Comments?

    So my comment is that I'd like to see the above quoted passage near the very beginning of the of the article.

    Stu
    Hi Stu,

    Thank you for your feedback, I'll see if I can tweak this to make the change.
    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

  4. #14
    Registered Member RamAirV1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,990
    Rep Power
    37
    I recently discovered that the hood of my GTO was repainted, probably due to damage in transport. The dealer body shop manager informed me of this when I went to get an estimate for hail dent repair. The paint on the hood chips very easily! So is this because repaints are just like that, or is it because I waxed it too soon? This was not the dealer where I bought the car. The dealership where I bought the car changed ownershiop and they don't know me from Adam, and I don't think they really care.

    They did do a good job of matching the color and it does look like the rest of the car. The evidence of the repaint was the paint buildup around the windshield wipers. But the stone chips are eventually going to be a problem as they accumulate. So I eventually will get stuck with a repaint and trying to find a painter that can do a decent job.

    Isn't the transporter obligated to inform GM or the dealer that the hood was damaged in transit? And wouldn't the dealer be obligated to inform me if they knew?

    Would I have rejected the car if I knew the hood was repainted? Maybe, maybe not. After all, my virtually flawless black TA was sitting right next to a very nice new car, but with a repainted hood. It's hard to say what I would have done.

    The dealer did inform me of some bumper damage which was very minor. They may not have known about the hood.

    I didn't mean to go off topic, but it is possible that I may have softened the paint on the hood by waxing too soon, not giving the paint a chance to breathe, but I had no way of knowing.

    And I may get dinged for the repaint when I go to trade it in some day, which would really make me angry!

    Hey, at least they just touched up the bumper and did not repaint it. That would have really been a mess!

    RamAirV1
    Last edited by RamAirV1; Aug 16th, 2005 at 03:59 PM.

  5. #15
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Age
    36
    Posts
    455
    Rep Power
    19
    It is always possible that if a paint is waxed too soon it will stay partially soft. However, typically in time the paint will still fully harden. Waxing should only slow or pause the process. If you kept it continuously waxed, it could have caused some softness problems.

    To make a long story short, I had a section of my car repainted and within one month it started pealing right off. I took it back and asked to speak with a manager.

    I was informed that a mistake was made and no primer was put on. They did a complete repaint of that section and as an appology also repainted my bumper that I scuffed hitting a garbage can.

    I was told not to wax for 60 days. The cool thing was the manager gave me a little calender and had a little sticker marking first wash and wax date of the new paint.

    I have had no problems to date with the re-paint, and that was over 1 year ago. It looks identical to the origional paint and I believe it to be equally hard.

  6. #16
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    41
    Rep Power
    14

    Re: Paint Needs to Breathe

    Hey,MIKE you explained it great.Do people really think it"breaths" instead of cured compleatly dry.I guess you don't want to seal fresh paint, just keep it clean till it's cured more ,then do what you'd like,carefully,just my thoughts, that's what worked for me when i painted yrs ago, hope it's still true today. mavrick

  7. #17
    Registered Member rkollman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    19
    Rep Power
    13

    Re: Paint Needs to Breathe - How to Polish?

    I have reached day 30 after my paint job on my Silver Honda Ridgeline using #80 #81 and Final Inspection. I plan to wait a total of 90 days before waxing.

    Simple Question? When you polish a few times, is there a shine build up thing taking place taking place or are you taking the previous polish off each time?

    I see that #80 has the Polymer in it, so is polishing with #81 days later remove that Polymer protection? Also, is it possiblle the Final Inspection is removing the Polymer?

    I guess its an #80 or #81 question. Can they compliment each other or should I simply choose between them?

  8. #18
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Stuart, Florida
    Age
    58
    Posts
    24,767
    Rep Power
    518

    Re: Paint Needs to Breathe

    Since both M80 and M81 are both rich in polishing oils, you really only need to choose one to use.

    Are you driving this car everyday? Or storing it until the 90 days are up?


    As for the question about will M34 remove polish? Sure, anytime you take your hand and wipe the finish with a clean, dry microfiber, regardless if you're using a quick detailer or not, the action of pushing down on a microfiber and pushing it across the paint acts to remove whatever is on the surface... not add more product to the surface...

    Using a quick detailer will add gloss because there are ingredients in the quick detailer designed to add gloss, but if you take the process to the extreme, wiping paint with a microfiber, a cloth/tool famous for it's ability to remove product off a surface, then from the extreme point of view, unless there's fresh polish on the cloth that you're applying, when you're pushing a microfiber cloth over the finish, you're not adding polish, you're likely removing any polish that's on the surface.

    This leads into a discussion on permeable and impermeable, and if you're working on brand new paint, then unless it's been sanded and cut with a compound, then you're working on paint that is very impermeable, that is polish is not going to penetrate easily into the paint because it's a very solid layer, as in not opened up from wear & tear, as we circle back around to the fact that it's brand new.

    You should still do something to it like apply a pure polish until you're ready to apply wax.

    Pretty simple really.
    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

  9. #19
    Registered Member rkollman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    19
    Rep Power
    13

    Re: Paint Needs to Breathe

    I'm driving the car but keep it garaged and pampered? We are headed into the winter and soon this can be an issue keeping it perfectly clean. I guess it does not matter which paint shop safe polish I use and there is no such thing as two coats of polish?

    Your obviously familiar with paint types. The body shop was sort of vague in their recommendation to wait the wait to wax time. They sort of said 30 days? But also said, waiting longer is possibly better. The paint job is nearly flawless and the clear coat is excellent. Honda Silver Metalic (Factory match). I see in your notes that polishes can help the cure or out gas process. Does this suggest that 90 days waiting to wax may not be needed if I keep the vehicle polished at a high gloss?

  10. #20
    Registered Member RamAirV1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,990
    Rep Power
    37

    Re: Paint Needs to Breathe

    I would go with the #80 as it will provide some level of protection with it's paintable polymer.

    RamAirV1
    2015 Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack 392Granite Crystal
    2006 GTO Impulse Blue

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Paint Workability - The Hardness or Softness of your car's paint
    By Mike Phillips in forum Hot Topics & Frequently Asked Questions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: Nov 27th, 2018, 12:33 PM
  2. Replies: 11
    Last Post: May 2nd, 2007, 10:44 AM
  3. Blue Scion Xa Detail - 56k prepare to breathe heavy!
    By CWM3 in forum Show Off Your Latest Detail Work
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: Apr 19th, 2007, 07:00 AM
  4. Replies: 4
    Last Post: Jul 12th, 2006, 09:16 AM
  5. Replies: 22
    Last Post: Mar 3rd, 2006, 12:24 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •