Apologies if this is a long one; I have tried to keep it to the essentials.
I've been working on my (black + clearcoat) hood to try and remove some fairly regular swirls and scratches.
I've got visibly and sensually (the feel) smoother paint, but the swirls are all still there under the strip lights! I clayed to begin, then used a rotary D-A starting with Fine Cut on a maroon pad, going to Swirl Remover, on and up to polish and sealant etc.
Filling swirls in with polish is ok for now, but I'll want to attack them again someday.
I tried to go easy, and not overdo it, using the lowest speeds and least abrasive product, taking my time. But 6 hours shoud really cover a hood!
I've already got one car in the paintshop having burnt through with the rotary. It's ok; the paint defects needed to be FULLY removed one way or the other, but they were just too serious to polish out and I learnt plenty in the process.
However, this baby's paint is in very good shape, and I can't afford an uneccessary trip to the paint shop. This paint job is a terrific re-spray, not original, probably using german paints, done by the previous owner who was a paint shop pro. It seems like a very hard clear coat (somehow "colder") compared to the factory finish I went too far with, which was Swedish.
How do I get serious on these swirls, but yet not risk damage? The car is a curvy old classic, not many flat panels, so plenty of opportunity to burn through on high points.
Which is likely to cause damage easier; a softer pad with a harsher cut, or the opposite?
best regards; paul
I've been working on my (black + clearcoat) hood to try and remove some fairly regular swirls and scratches.
I've got visibly and sensually (the feel) smoother paint, but the swirls are all still there under the strip lights! I clayed to begin, then used a rotary D-A starting with Fine Cut on a maroon pad, going to Swirl Remover, on and up to polish and sealant etc.
Filling swirls in with polish is ok for now, but I'll want to attack them again someday.
I tried to go easy, and not overdo it, using the lowest speeds and least abrasive product, taking my time. But 6 hours shoud really cover a hood!
I've already got one car in the paintshop having burnt through with the rotary. It's ok; the paint defects needed to be FULLY removed one way or the other, but they were just too serious to polish out and I learnt plenty in the process.
However, this baby's paint is in very good shape, and I can't afford an uneccessary trip to the paint shop. This paint job is a terrific re-spray, not original, probably using german paints, done by the previous owner who was a paint shop pro. It seems like a very hard clear coat (somehow "colder") compared to the factory finish I went too far with, which was Swedish.
How do I get serious on these swirls, but yet not risk damage? The car is a curvy old classic, not many flat panels, so plenty of opportunity to burn through on high points.
Which is likely to cause damage easier; a softer pad with a harsher cut, or the opposite?
best regards; paul
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