My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

[shortshifter]

Hi.

I am quite confused with consumer product lines. I am about to start my detailing project as a hobbyist and enthusiast.

I dont have a rotary polisher. But I do have a Black and Decker KP600 Orbital polisher. PLus a hand-rub as well.


1. Wash: Meguiars Car Shampoo
2. Claying: Smooth Surface Clay Kit
3. Paint Cleaner: SwirlX or UC by hand (Can I use an orbital polisher here?)
4. Polisher: ??? (Will SwirlX do the job also here? or should I use M80 with KP600?)
5. Wax: NXT 2.0
6. Maintaining: UQD


I am quite confused with the Cleaning and Polishing Steps. WHen using rotary polisher, I believe these two goes together by using M105 followed by M205 or M83/80.
But what if using the consumer line products such as UC or Swirl X on the Cleaning Section? What will I use for the Polishing? Will it be just a single step?

Newbie here. PLease enlighten me.

Thanks

[speed3blackmica]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

Looks like there is a lot to be explained here...ill wait for one of the mike's to step in on this..but you got the right idea of washing, claying, and then using a paint cleaner, and then waxing..its just "how to" use the paint cleaners I think you will need some helpful advice on. Good luck

[searle]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

The big question is the initial condition of the paint. Is it a new car, and/or is the paint in good condition (no oxidation, no significant swirls)? Or, does it have significant blemishes needing treatment?

If the paint is in good condition, then all you need is a very light paint cleaner (such as SwirlX) after the claying just to freshen it up. Even by hand would be OK, but your polisher will make it an easier job. If you have more problems, the polisher becomes more important since it is fairly hard to remove defects by hand, and you may need to step up to a more agressive cleaner (but always start with the least agressive first and go stonger ONLY if you have to).

After paint cleaning, I personally always like to give a coat of glaze/polish (DC2 or M07 etc), but some cleaners (like SwirlX) have polish in them, but ScratchX (more agressive) does not. If you do have to step up to UC, you probably need to follow it with SwirlX.

[Murr1525]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

You can try the SwirlX and UC with your polisher, wont hurt to try.

As far as the steps, try to remember that cleaning removes dirt and possibly swirls, polishing adds oils to the paint.

So some products only clean: #105, UC, ScratchX for examples.
Some clean and polish: #80, #205, SwirlX
Some only polish: Deep Crystal Polish, #7

Now, you'll certainly get more polishing oils from a polish only product, but using a cleaner/polish at least covers all the steps. So some people still like to follow up SwirlX or #80 with a pure polish, some don't worry about it.

[searle]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

By the way, the only downside to using SwirlX to remove light swirls is that is does contain polish/glaze oils, and hence will tend to "fill" in light swirls and hide them (temporarily) the same as with any polish.

If you do actually have some swirls that you explicitly want to remove, you might want to initially use ScratchX (a little more agressive than SwirlX and it does not have polish oils) or for bad swirls even UC. Then you can more easily see that the swirls have actually been removed. If UC was needed, follow it with SwirlX or ScratchX to finely finish the surface. Follow that up with a glaze/polish then wax. Same approach for products from the Professional line if you chose some of them instead.

After initial defect removal, your subsequent detailing paint-cleaning can probably just use SwirlX as a mild paint cleaner to freshen up the finish prior to polish+wax.

[searle]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

Another (last) thought. For the polish step, if you chose to do it, you can just put DC2 or M07 on by hand since you do not need really work any glaze. Just lightly rub a very tiny amount into the surface and then wipe to remove the excess (almost all of it ends up being wiped off).

The professional (machine applied) polish is not to work it in more, it is just faster for a detailing shop to cover a whole car that way. And, since polish is mostly oils, your machine pad will get extremely "oily" and probably not worth trying to clean and use for any other purpose (just keep it for polish).

Since I love the look and feel that glaze/oils give, I take the few minutes to apply (and wipe off) by hand. One of the nicest parts of the whole detailing process. Nothing wrong with using a machine, but sometimes you just need to slow down and "smell the polish".

[speed3blackmica]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

Another (last) thought. For the polish step, if you chose to do it, you can just put DC2 or M07 on by hand since you do not need really work any glaze. Just lightly rub a very tiny amount into the surface and then wipe to remove the excess (almost all of it ends up being wiped off).

The professional (machine applied) polish is not to work it in more, it is just faster for a detailing shop to cover a whole car that way. And, since polish is mostly oils, your machine pad will get extremely "oily" and probably not worth trying to clean and use for any other purpose (just keep it for polish).

Since I love the look and feel that glaze/oils give, I take the few minutes to apply (and wipe off) by hand. One of the nicest parts of the whole detailing process. Nothing wrong with using a machine, but sometimes you just need to slow down and "smell the polish".

thats a good tip..however using a polish with plenty of good oils in it doesnt mean you have to keep one pad only for polish..with introduction of the soft buff 2.0 pads that are machine washable, you have nothing to worry about

[searle]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

thats a good tip..however using a polish with plenty of good oils in it doesnt mean you have to keep one pad only for polish..with introduction of the soft buff 2.0 pads that are machine washable, you have nothing to worry about

Absolutely. But if you are a polish adict like me, I just find it easier to keep one pad just for polish, being the lazy sort that I am. In fact, all my various pads are lined up on my shelf like toy soldiers (and I even wrote on the back of them with a marker to remind me what I use them for.) When I am in a hurry, the DA polishing is great. On wondurful sunny weekends, a slow hand polish is bliss.

[speed3blackmica]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

Absolutely. But if you are a polish adict like me, I just find it easier to keep one pad just for polish, being the lazy sort that I am. In fact, all my various pads are lined up on my shelf like toy soldiers (and I even wrote on the back of them with a marker to remind me what I use them for.) When I am in a hurry, the DA polishing is great. On wondurful sunny weekends, a slow hand polish is bliss.

oh okay, i get what your saying now..

it is a good idea to wash them from time to time though...if your just going to keep using the same pad day by day, then yeh just clean it with a terry towel and a brush and throw em back on the shelf

[shortshifter]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

The big question is the initial condition of the paint.

The first car that I will work on is just a 2 year old car. Still fresh and not an everyday car. My problem with this is more on watermarks. I am more after on cleaning then maintaining the gloss and protection.

So, based on suggestions, I'll do washing, claying, then swirlX, M07/DC2 for polish (optional since condition is not so bad???) , then waxing.....Correct me here pls...



Then for my other car, it's already 10years old. Never been detailed. Though I always wash it, but there are above surface contaminants already that cant be removed by washing and not glossy anymore. For this, i'm planning to use UC with orbital polisher, then polish with M07 glaze (mandatory?), then wax...

Correct me if I'm wrong...or after using UC, should I follow it up with SwirlX first then polish? Do i always have to follow UC with a lesser aggressive compound just like when using M105 followed by M205?


thanks

[Murr1525]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

What you want to do is really the same for both cars.

1. Wash then clay the car.

2. Then, you will try a test spot/area with SwirlX, by hand and machine if you want. If you get the results you want, great. If not, then you step up to UC. I would say if 2 applications of SwirlX to one area (say 1ft square) don't fix it, then step up.

3. Once the defects you want gone are gone (and if it doesn't seem like UC is doing it, stop back for help, may be your technique ,etc.) you can examine the finish closely. If very fine imperfections are left, you can go back with SwirlX. If all looks good, you can go with the pure polish if you want, or SwirlX which is a cleaner/polish, or skip it and just wax. Esp with the older paint, some polishing oils would be good.

4. Then wax, 2 thin coats are best.

[shortshifter]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

Hi.Thanks.

I was thinking I might need a different paint cleaner on two different conditions of the cars...

Alright, so it doesn't necessarily mean that after using UC, use swirlx for finer finish? i can go straight to pure polish then wax? sorry for the confusion. I tend to follow the professional's line up which is M105 followed by 205, or M83 with M80.

[Murr1525]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

I was thinking I might need a different paint cleaner on two different conditions of the cars...

Well, I mean it might be safe to say the older car will need UC no matter what... but with no pics, and you starting a little confused, best to start gentle for a test spot, then step up if needed. Then repeat what works over the rest of the car.

Alright, so it doesn't necessarily mean that after using UC, use SwirlX for finer finish? i can go straight to pure polish then wax? sorry for the confusion. I tend to follow the professional's line up which is M105 followed by 205, or M83 with M80.

Its just a case of 'do what you need to do'. These new products finish out really nice, even the strong ones like 105. So just get a good look at the paint in a good light, and if you need something finer after, then go for it. If not, then you don't need to.

Keeping things in good shape, your next detail should just be SwirlX or #205 then in the future.

[Caress Detailing]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

It all depends on the condition of the paint you're working on. But let's say the paint is very oxidized and swirled up, you could just do UC then Swirl-X and then Wax. If the paint is only mildly defective, then you could try just Swirl-X and then Wax. Swirl-X already has polishing oils in it, so you may not even need M07 or DC2 polish.

You're best bet is to test on a spot first to see if you get the results you desire, then work on the rest of the car.

[shortshifter]

Re: My Consumer line Product Detailing strategy inquiry

thanks....

which is better? Swirlx or Swirl Remover 2.0? are they the same?