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I'd love to see the data on using no more than 3000 grit wet sanding by hand (since all the 3000 discs have foam backing so not as aggressive as 3000). You could follow it with 4000 Abralon if you wanted to, but I was able to take out just 3000 with a polishing pad and 205 (with a rotary but I am sure a DA would work), which shouldn't be too invasive. The thing is, there was a miraculous improvement in surface scratches from this process, better than compounding without wet sanding. When I get the gadget, which may be months, I will do this test.
I would love to see a 105/205 write up! I am pretty new to detailing and have a xp7424 and with LC orange and LC white pads and use the Megs 105/205 combo. I find that I am using the 105 more than I thought since it is an aggressive compound. I would love to know what I am doing to my paint. My father who has a 2008 VW is very hesitant on having me do anything because he "wants the depth of his clear" to remain intact. I did try some spots on his hood but I didnt remove any of the scratches even with LC orange and Megs 105? I am afraid I was just eating clear away on my test spot and gave up to chemical cleaner until I understand if I am harming his clear. This would be a perfect test to help me understand!
From all I know it is.... Ive played with it a few times testing products and techniques different combos, wetsanding out key sratches on parts of the hood If that will work Im ready when you are
Anyone have an "estimate" how much clear would be removed using M105/M205 combo with suggested foam pads using a rotary ? Using a Porter Cable ?
It really depends on how aggressively you buff, how long you buff, how soft the paint is, what your skill level is, etc. There are a ton of variables here so the quick answer is "anywhere from virtually nil to burning through the paint". If what you're trying to do is remove fairly typical swirl marks then if you stop when the swirls are gone you'll remove such a small amount that you probably won't be able to measure the change in clear coat thickness. If you're trying to compound out really serious defects and just grinding away with a rotary you may pull 0.1 mil or a touch more. But that is such a "wild guess" number that it may or may not mean much in your particular case.
When you look at the numbers Joe got in the earlier posts in this thread, you shouldn't expect a huge difference by substituting M105 in place of the M85 Joe used. Yes, M105 offers more cut, but what that should mean to you is that you'll get the job done a bit faster and probably get a better finish in the process. So just as Joe observed a 0.1 mil loss in thickness when using M85 and wool on a rotary when removing the final sanding marks, you should expect the same when using M105. Keep in mind that you need to fully remove the sanding marks, so no matter what you use to remove them there is a set amount of paint that needs to be taken off in order for those sanding marks to disappear. So it's up to the operator to know when to stop and when to keep going. Any difference in paint thickness readings obtained when using different products is going to be so narrow as to be inconsequential.
But the user experience with the different products, the speed at which they cut, the quality of finish obtained, how the paint responds, etc are all going to be factors that determine why you'd choose one over the other.
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
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