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  1. #21
    Registered Member Marc08EX's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Thanks for taking time to do a how-to write up! This will be great information for people who's new to detailing and want to learn the proper way of doing things!
    2011 Car Crazy Showcase SEMA Team

  2. #22
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Finally took the plunge and ordered the G110v2 (the Power Kit). Received it yesterday and spent the entire day today (Saturday) polishing my red 2007 Subruban with M205/Yellow 2.0 pad after washing with Gold Class shampoo and a quick clean up with mild Meguiars clay/Final Inspection. Why had I waited so long? Meguiars DA polisher is the easiest tool to master. With the M205 I was able to remove all swirls and minor scratches with ease leaving a flawless, clean, and defect free surface. I used Final Inspection to prime the pad and and old bath towel to frequently clean the pad. A follow up applicaion of wax finished a long 10 hour day. The end result is a deep, dark finish that is better than new.
    THANK YOU MEGUIARS FOR PRODUCING A SUPERIOR LINE OF PRODUCTS FOR THE AVERAGE WEEKEND WARRIOR TO EASILY MASTER.

  3. #23
    大家好 Late Bloomer Bunky's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Still learning but I have made most of the mistakes
    1. Move the polisher too fast over the surface - this can happen after doing multiple panels (like 1/3 done), getting tired/bored, and trying to get done. Resist the urge, take a break, pay attention. Flex will make you stay attentive more than the droning DA.
    2. Trying to work too large of an area at one time. I started using a mf towel as a template for area and mark off sections with painters tape. For my flex, I work about 20x20.
    3. Too low of speed setting for removing swirls - If you are running at less than 5 to 6 you are wasting your time.
    4. Too little pressure on the head of the unit - Only had this initially since I was scared of ruining the paint.It still needs plenty of pressure to break down. Once I played with the DA pad against my hand, I realized how safe it was.
    5. Too much pressure on the head of the unit so the pad quits rotating - never had this issue.
    6. Not keeping the pad flat while working your product - done this. Need to keep the Flex flat or it will walk more
    7. Too much product, too little product - I try to use less and if it does not spread well, then add more. If you add too much (like with Menz. it takes forever to break it all down if you use too much).
    8. Not cleaning the pad often enough - underrated issue to me. Polishes breakdown correctly (after each panel does not see to too much but at least after every couple panels). The tell tale sign is that when you spread the polish on a panel, if it does not look very uniform, you pad is likely dirty.
    Al
    ~ Providing biased opinions

  4. #24
    Registered Member VMP's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Great write up, very good information, thanks Mike.

  5. #25
    Final Appearance Detailing MagicHands's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Great Article Mike.
    When Your Appearance Means Everything

  6. #26
    Registered Member juliom2's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    awesome!!!!!!

  7. #27
    Registered Member RyanNowlin's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Received my D/A in the mail on Thursday and spent Saturday morning with it and a bottle of Ultimate Compound. Absolutely amazing results, I still can't believe it! I focused on the front-end of my '07 911 Turbo and the swirls are now completely gone. Planning to do the rest of the car this coming weekend and then polish & wax.

    Question - I clayed the car the previous weekend, then just washed and started the UC process this week. Is it OK to continue in this fashion week to week, assuming I can't get all the steps done in a single weekend? Or is it best to just dedicate 1 weekend to all the steps and do them back-to-back?

    Also - was surprised when I started using the D/A with all the little yellow "crumbs" that came off the 2.0 pad and were getting everywhere, is this normal? Don't recall seeing this on any of the videos.

    Thanks!
    Ryan

  8. #28
    Sr. Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    Hi Ryan, and welcome to MOL!

    Quote Originally Posted by RyanNowlin View Post
    Received my D/A in the mail on Thursday and spent Saturday morning with it and a bottle of Ultimate Compound. Absolutely amazing results, I still can't believe it! I focused on the front-end of my '07 911 Turbo and the swirls are now completely gone. Planning to do the rest of the car this coming weekend and then polish & wax.
    Glad to see you're getting such good results so quickly!!

    Quote Originally Posted by RyanNowlin View Post
    Question - I clayed the car the previous weekend, then just washed and started the UC process this week. Is it OK to continue in this fashion week to week, assuming I can't get all the steps done in a single weekend? Or is it best to just dedicate 1 weekend to all the steps and do them back-to-back?
    Really the best case scenario would be to do the whole process start to finish in a single day or weekend. But time constraints don't always allow for that, so it you have to break it up over multiple weekends then so be it. But if you're going to do that, we'd recommend blocking out time to do the whole process on as much surface area as time allows. That is, if you're going to do the hood and front fenders only, then do the entire process on those areas and then next weekend do the entire process on one side of the car (time allowing, of course).

    If the car is driven daily during this process we highly recommend washing and drying it thoroughly before starting each weekend session. You should be able to wash and clay the whole car, as you did, and then just concentrate on the buffing later on. Just keep in mind that doing so means you'll have no wax on some parts of the car, but in reality doing so for a week or two isn't going to cause the paint to fall off the car. If the car is not driven daily but is kept in a garage, you should then be fine just wiping it down with Quik Detailer prior to buffing the next section(s).

    But from the above description, you start to see why doing the whole car in a single session or single weekend is preferred.

    Quote Originally Posted by RyanNowlin View Post
    Also - was surprised when I started using the D/A with all the little yellow "crumbs" that came off the 2.0 pad and were getting everywhere, is this normal? Don't recall seeing this on any of the videos.
    That's normal and it's just part of the manufacturing process with the pads. In future you could wash the pads before first use, or at least brush them out thoroughly first, but other than that initial dust it's not a big deal.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

  9. #29
    Registered Member RyanNowlin's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    That is great, Michael -- thanks so much for the help!

  10. #30
    Professional Detailer Jimmy Buffit's Avatar
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    Re: D/A Buffing 101 – An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)

    We've been using a DA for over 8 years, and almost exclusively with the intro of 105/205.

    But, I've had each of my employees study this post (on the clock), and then quizzed them on the finer points.

    As Kevin Brown pointed out, an epic post. Thanks for the symposium, Mike!
    If it was easy, everybody'd be doing it!

    www.jimmybuffit.com

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