How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?
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  1. #1
    aka andrewc_11890 Andrew C.'s Avatar
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    How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    So I was messing around today with my Makita and was trying to get it so I could go straight from using the rotary to my LSP.

    I was practicing on a Hyundai Santa Fe with moderate swirls. I was using a yellow polishing pad with D151 at 1400-1500 RPM's with moderate pressure. It did a fairly good job of removing the swirls and when I got to the end of working a section, I eased up to no pressure, and slowed down to 1200 RPM's. Only a few times did I nail a section that left no holograms. The other sections left very light holograms behind.

    How do you guys finish off your sections without having any holograms? I know sometimes it is inevitable with a rotary and a wool pad, but with a polishing pad and D151, I feel like it is possible, especially considering since I had success with it a few times. Is 1200 RPM's still too fast? I don't believe I have any issues with my movement and technique. I wasn't going all over, really fast, but rather moving in side to side, up and down methodical patterns.


    Another issue I am wondering about is the workability of products on a rotary. I feel that product is absorbed very quickly when using a rotary and that it is almost impossible to keep the working area wet with product like you would with a DA. However the pad still remains wet with product, it is just that the paint does not. Is this the way it should be?


    Thanks for your advice and help in advance!

    I once put swirls in my paint just to see what it looked like.

    I don't always detail cars, but when I do, I prefer Meguiar's.
    Remove swirls my friends.

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    Mr. greg0303's Avatar
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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    Andrew,

    Don't be so hard on yourself. Even with perfect technique (slow arm speed, flat pad through the process, correct product/ pad/ speed setting) on some paints it's gonna be extremely hard to finish LSP ready with a rotary buffer.
    The same applies to leaving holograms behind.

    Finishing polishing step you could slow down even to 900-1,000 rpm.

    M34 Final Inspection is great to prime your pads before starting buffing. It extends product working time.

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    Registered Member Lasthope05's Avatar
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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    For the last few passes I drop the rpm's down to 1000rpm and slow down my arm movement. With D151 because it is so thick just absorbs in the pad as you have experienced and leaves very little residue on the paint while buff. As long as the surface of the buffing pad is wet and lubricated you are fine. However, in my experiences D151 is sometimes a bit to aggressive and does not finish well on softer paints without leaving holograms.
    Alan T.

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    aka andrewc_11890 Andrew C.'s Avatar
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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    Thanks for your advice. I'll try dropping the speed a tad bit lower next time. I just assumed that since the D151 and a polishing pad wasn't taking all the defects out, that the paint was somewhere in the middle in regards to hardness, so I thought that since D151 can be used as a finishing wax, I could have it LSP ready.

    I guess that sometimes it is hard to know for sure how to finish it off properly, just because paints react so differently. Sometimes you would think a slower speed on delicate paint would be more appropriate, but I have heard of higher speeds finishing off better.

    How often are you guys able to finish off with a rotary to LSP ready? What pads and products are you traditionally using?

    I once put swirls in my paint just to see what it looked like.

    I don't always detail cars, but when I do, I prefer Meguiar's.
    Remove swirls my friends.

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    Mr. greg0303's Avatar
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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    D151/ yellow polishing pad on a rotary buffer is still pretty aggressive. With black finishing pad you'd finish much better for sure.

    I almost never finish LSP ready with neither wool nor foam cutting pads. The small W4003 wool pad gives me hard time as well when I do spot repairs.
    I quite like polishing step after aggressive paint removal with rotary buffer. It's fun to see all those left behind defects disappear in front of my eyes.

    Have you tried buffing with W5000 double-sided wool pad? It's the next best thing after paint sanding. It can do magic with M105.

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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    nearly every car I do as one steppers I use the yellow pad and 151 but I stay at speed 2 no more than 2.5 which should be around 900-1100 rpms tops ... if the car is pretty bad I will just add a tad of pressure.
    I have found that anything above this speed just leave holograms and as its a one stepper for me its either this speed for me or a DA .. and i love the Makita so thats my trade off.
    Try it again and just drop the speed and see if that works for you.

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    Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    We're inclined to agree with what others have posted here:


    • Slow down that buffer for final polishing to 900~1000 rpm.
    • Move to a finishing pad for final polishing
    • Sometimes the paint is just really sensitive to inputs, even if wont' fully correct. There is a definite difference between a paint's willingness to correct and it's desire to mar - and sometimes no real correlation between the two!! And that can be frustrating, to say the least. Some paints are just more user friendly than others.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    LSP = low speed polisher? DA polisher? Liquid Spreadable Polish? Other?

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    Product & Training Specialist |MOL Admin Nick Winn's Avatar
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    Re: How to go from Rotary Straight to LSP?

    Quote Originally Posted by TomBrooklyn View Post
    LSP = low speed polisher? DA polisher? Liquid Spreadable Polish? Other?
    "LSP" is "Last Step Product". Like a wax or protectant.
    Nick Winn
    Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Online Forum Administrator
    Meguiar's Inc.
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    nawinn@meguiars.com
    800-854-8073 ext 3845

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