SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

          
  1. #1
    Registered Member gto_don's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Glendale Arizona
    Posts
    453
    Rep Power
    22

    SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    I may be asked to quote a "buffing" job on a '56 Chevy Nomad. Color is Grecian Gold and Calypso Cream. I will be looking at the car this coming week, but the owner has already told me that he just purchased this car and that the paint is quite faded. It is a driver so he understands that the current condition of the paint will factor into the end result.
    It has been some time since I have detailed SS paint and even longer since I have attempted working paint this old.
    I am looking for advice for what you may recommend for product/pad to do this job. I know the "test spot" routine and will certainly do that.
    This I do know (considering):
    1.) For 30 year old paint, I assume it will be thin, if not everywhere, certainly in spots. I don't have a thickness gauge (yet).

    2.) I don't think I want to get anywhere close to this vehicle with a rotary. I am far from an expert with rotary, but have a good amount of hours with it.

    3.) I am considering using something like M80 as this has more oil but less cut which I assume this paint will drink up.

    4.) If not M80, possibly M83 which will have more cut and less oil.

    5.) I have done two vehicles using the new MF pads and D300/301. I''m just not sure this combo will work with this vehicle. What is your opinion.

    6.) Any recommendation for proper pad selection to start with?

    Thanks everyone. I repsect this forum enough to pose these questions and know that I will get the best advice available.

    Here is a picture of the car the owner sent to me. Hope it will help.

    Don
    "In the game of life, I have no need for tickets on the 50-yard line, I brought my shoes, I came to play." unknown

    http://www.facebook.com/pages/OC-Det...7770507?v=wall

  2. #2
    Registered Member Murr1525's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Age
    39
    Posts
    19,196
    Rep Power
    237

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    Sure looks like a candiate for #80.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

  3. #3
    Registered Member sneek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,736
    Rep Power
    43

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    +1 on using #80.

    I think more oils would do wonders for that paint job. You can always more to #83 if you think you need more cut.
    Patrick Yu
    2003 Honda Accord
    2008 Honda Accord EX-L V6

  4. #4
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    NW burbs of Chicago
    Age
    46
    Posts
    44
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    I don''t know if this is cool by Meguiar's to link to another forum, but it's a long write up of #7 and it seems relevant to your Chevy job.

    http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ge-paints.html

    Mike started this Lincoln with plenty of hand work with #7, then 80 on the rotary with a purple Kompressor, then DA work.

  5. #5
    Registered Member gto_don's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Glendale Arizona
    Posts
    453
    Rep Power
    22

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    Thanks guys for you time and input. That is indeed a great article by Mike Phillips.
    Don
    "In the game of life, I have no need for tickets on the 50-yard line, I brought my shoes, I came to play." unknown

    http://www.facebook.com/pages/OC-Det...7770507?v=wall

  6. #6
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Stuart, Florida
    Age
    59
    Posts
    24,767
    Rep Power
    519

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    I was at a local car show last Tuesday and saw the 1973 Lincoln for the first time in about a year and it still looks great... took a picture with my iphone... hang on...

    Cool car by the way...


    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

  7. #7
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Stuart, Florida
    Age
    59
    Posts
    24,767
    Rep Power
    519

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    I was wrong... but I'll see it again this Tuesday night and take a picture of it...

    The article has also been published on AutoTraderClassic.com, I was told it is the longest how-to article they have ever published...


    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

  8. #8
    Sr. Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    21,402
    Rep Power
    1138

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    We're inclined to think M80 with a W8207 polishing pad is the logical starting point with your test spots on this car, but then we had a Mercedes Benz 450SL show up to a recent TNOG event with original single stage paint.........

    We used Ultimate Compound, twice, then M80 and then M07 by hand and topped it with M26. The improvement was dramatic to say the least. But then just for kicks we hit it with the DA Microfiber Correction System - one pass with D300/DMC5 and one pass with D301/DMF5. We actually got a better, and waaaay faster, result with the DA Microfiber System.

    On that car.

    This Chevy doesn't have the same paint, obviously.

    Point being, since you've got both systems on hand, and since you're going to do a test spot or two, try it both ways and see which one works best on this car.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

  9. #9
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Stuart, Florida
    Age
    59
    Posts
    24,767
    Rep Power
    519

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    [QUOTE=gto_don;464592]
    I may be asked to quote a "buffing" job on a '56 Chevy Nomad. Color is Grecian Gold and Calypso Cream. I will be looking at the car this coming week, but the owner has already told me that he just purchased this car and that the paint is quite faded. It is a driver so he understands that the current condition of the paint will factor into the end result.
    It has been some time since I have detailed SS paint and even longer since I have attempted working paint this old.

    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post
    I am looking for advice for what you may recommend for product/pad to do this job. I know the "test spot" routine and will certainly do that.
    Is this a metallic single stage paint? If not you're lucky. If so, then antique and original metallic single stage paint is the most difficult paint there is to restore because the aluminum flake "inside" the paint oxidizes and you can't polish out each flake individually so you can't remove the oxidation inside the paint, just the topical oxidation. This is all covered in my article on the topic.


    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post


    This I do know (considering):

    1.) For 30 year old paint, I assume it will be thin, if not everywhere, certainly in spots. I don't have a thickness gauge (yet).
    I wouldn't automatically make that assumption, often times repaints are thicker than factory paint, especially a custom paint job.

    Now whether or not a Caveman Detailer used a caveman compound to buff the paint leaving it thin after the painter did their job, that's another story... let's hope not but be very careful on places like the tops of the front fenders as this is were a Caveman Detailer will simply stand and over-buff because it's so easy to buff places like this... it's much harder to sit your but on the ground and buff the lower portions of the fenders or doors... no glory buffing these areas...


    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post
    2.) I don't think I want to get anywhere close to this vehicle with a rotary. I am far from an expert with rotary, but have a good amount of hours with it.
    With a small foam polishing pad like the Megs W-8006 it would probably work pretty well using M80 Speed Glaze or M105 or even M95... just be prepared to clean your pad often and you're going to be pulling a lot of dead, oxidized paint off no matter how you work on it.



    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post
    3.) I am considering using something like M80 as this has more oil but less cut which I assume this paint will drink up.
    M80 is like M07 with Steroids... in fact I just posted something similar on AGO

    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post

    4.) If not M80, possibly M83 which will have more cut and less oil.
    M83 is a great cleaner/polish but can be very hard to wipe-off in some environments and on some paint systems, like old, dry single stage. If you use it, clean your pad very often and always wipe off any spent product from the panel quickly and always before working the panel again.



    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post
    5.) I have done two vehicles using the new MF pads and D300/301. I''m just not sure this combo will work with this vehicle. What is your opinion.
    I've had good luck using the new compound and polish/wax on single stage paint, also with using them with foam polishing pads. Here's a 1959 Cadillac 2-door Coupe de Ville that had an older single stage paint job that I used the new DA system on...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
    I've experienced zero dusting with either of these products. This is the second single stage car I've buffed out using this new Tag Team, the first was this 1959 Cadillac 2-door Coupe de Ville and the paint really reacted well to these two products.

    If you look closely, the paint on the passenger side fender is clear and glossy, that's because it was repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat system, the rest of the car has an older single stage paint that has dulled from oxidation and lack of any regular maintenance.

    One of my goals was to maximize the gloss and clarity of the single stage paint surrounding the passenger fender so the car would have a uniform, clear, high gloss appearance.

    I'll try to do the write-up for this car in the near future, this belonged to the Caddy King and I've heard he's since sold it.


    Before
    Passenger Fender = New Clearcoat
    Entire Hood = Before Condition, Oxidized paint


    After
    Passenger Fender = New Clearcoat
    Passenger Hood = Before Condition, Oxidized paint
    Driver's side of hood = Buffed with Meguiar's DA system, clear and glossy now



    Quote Originally Posted by gto_don View Post
    6.) Any recommendation for proper pad selection to start with?
    "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

    By hand start with 100% clean, soft quality terry cloth toweling. Check Martha Stewart hand towels and buy about a dozen.

    By machine, foam polishing pads unless you're feeling confident then something more aggressive but honestly, a polishing pad and "time" should work well and be very safe.


    That would be a very fun car to buff-out... it would make a great Extreme Makeover. Check out this thread... the before pictures of panels like the hood are very valuable... note the warning in the 5th paragraph...

    The power in the after shots is created in the before shots



    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

  10. #10
    Registered Member gto_don's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Glendale Arizona
    Posts
    453
    Rep Power
    22

    Re: SS-30 Year Old Paint Question/Advice

    Thanks Mike and Mike for your input. You have really helped put my mind at ease about this opportunity. I go over to inspect/quote the car tomorrow. Wish we were closer to Mequiars. I think it would be a great candidate for one of the Thursday night or Saturday classes......

    Thanks again.
    Don
    "In the game of life, I have no need for tickets on the 50-yard line, I brought my shoes, I came to play." unknown

    http://www.facebook.com/pages/OC-Det...7770507?v=wall

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. D/A Buffing 101 - An Introduction to the G110v2 (and similar)
    By Michael Stoops in forum How To Articles
    Replies: 62
    Last Post: Jan 3rd, 2018, 11:37 PM
  2. The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us
    By Mike Phillips in forum Detailing 101
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: Jan 14th, 2011, 06:04 PM
  3. Learning to use the Rotary Buffer
    By Mike Phillips in forum How To Articles
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: Apr 29th, 2010, 10:15 PM
  4. What is the meaning of soft paint?
    By Mike Phillips in forum Hot Topics & Frequently Asked Questions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: Jan 23rd, 2009, 10:23 PM
  5. whats the difference
    By bjayjr5679 in forum Detailing 101
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: May 22nd, 2006, 06:27 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •