M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

[Hawk312]

I am currently working on a project where I am just about finished wet sanding (1500 grit) and am about to start cutting/buffing. So I picked up a bottle of M105 a while back before I started this project. I am not sure what for, but I plan on using this as a first step with the maroon pad. I know alot of people follow this up with M205. But I have a good bit of the #9 swirl remover lying around and have been really happy with it in the past. I usually would follow up some of the over the counter rubbing compounds with the swirl remover and it did a great job. Can I follow up the M105 with the #9 swirl remover and yellow pad and get similar results to the M105/M205 combination since they are relatively close in the cut rating scale? The M205 is level 4 and the swirl remover is level 3. I realize it might take a few more passes, which I am fine with. I am also planning to follow this up with the machine glaze and the beige finish pad. Would that make sense.
Thanks!

[Murr1525]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Nothing wrong with trying.

[Marc08EX]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

to MOL!

I think you'll be fine. Like you said you might need to do more passes because M9 is DAT as opposed to SMAT. I'm not sure how the polishing oils are compared to M205 though. Best bet is to try it and see whether you're happy or not with the results. If not then maybe you can try M205.

[Hawk312]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Thanks guys! I guess I will get to work and let everyone know how it goes.

[Marc08EX]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

I'm looking forward to hearing your results. Maybe you can post some pics too.

[Hawk312]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Guys,
It looks as though I was a little too cautious going with the maroon pad, and will need to pick up the more aggressive wool pad. Using the maroon pad with the 105 after wet sanding with 1500 was just taking too long to get all the scratches out. But, I am really surprised at how much of a shine I can get with just the 105. I can`t imagine not having success with the #9 after this. I will keep you posted.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Did you ever consider refining your sanding marks down to 3000 grit? It will make the compounding process go much, much faster and is actually less invasive to the paint than tring to grind out the more aggressive sanding marks. Just a suggestion.

As for M09 vs M205 - either one should do a great job of removing any buffer swirls you may create in the compounding step, but M205 just refines the surface to such a high level thanks to the high tech abrasives in it. Using M205 may Evan make the application of a finishing glaze unnecessary. If you really want to use the M03 to finish on a rotary, we recommend staying with the black pad (a fresh one, of course) as it works a bit better on the rotary than the older tan pad does.

[Hawk312]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Thanks Michael! Should I go straight from 1500 to 3000? It seems like a big jump (at least to this novice ). Should I do 2000 in between? Would it be possible to go from 1000 - 2000 - 3000 then 105? I have some bad orange peel I am working through, and even with 1500, it feels like my arm is going to fall off trying to get it all out. And those 3000 blocks....will they last through an entire (small) car?
Thanks.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Thanks Michael! Should I go straight from 1500 to 3000? It seems like a big jump (at least to this novice ). Should I do 2000 in between? Would it be possible to go from 1000 - 2000 - 3000 then 105? I have some bad orange peel I am working through, and even with 1500, it feels like my arm is going to fall off trying to get it all out. And those 3000 blocks....will they last through an entire (small) car?
Thanks.

Yes, you can go from 1500 straight to 3000 grit before compounding. You mentioned 3000 blocks - are you using our Unigrit Sanding Blocks? It's a bit unusual to do an entire car with those although we have it on good authority that Chip Foose has done just that in the past ("good authority" = Chip himself, by the way!) so it's certainly possible. You definitely want to round off all the corners first though! As for whether or not a single block will last an entire car....... in all honesty,

If you move to the 3000 grit finishing discs in our Unigrit line, and use an foam interface pad with either our S6HP hand pad or your DA buffer (damp sanding, not true wet sanding!!!) you'll get the job done much faster and with a more uniform, predictable sanding mark that should compound out pretty easily.

[Hawk312]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Thanks for the tip Mike! Yeah it was painful getting the 1500 grit marks out. I actually went from 1500 to 2000 then to 3000 and it was much easier. Some spots I skipped the 2000 and went to 3000, and results were about the same. I am still really surprised at the clarity of the 105 considering it`s aggressiveness. Hopefully I will have some outdoor pics soon.

[Hawk312]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Just thought I would update this thread since it is going to be a while until I can get the car outside for pics. Some parts of the car I sanded with 1500, followed by 2000, followed by 3000, others I just went to 2000. M105 was a zip with parts sanded with 3000. With the parts sanded with 2000, it took a little longer but was still pretty quick. It also has a bit more gloss than I expected with just the 105. The #9 scratch remover seems to be a great follow-up. Clarity seems nearly perfect after the #9 and a little polish. The only thing I notice is that it seems to dry quite easily, and becomes "clumpy" during buffing. Not sure what is up with that. But it seems to be doing quite well. Below is a pic. As you can see from the front part of the rear quarter panel, I could`ve been much more aggressive with the wet sanding to get all that orange peel out.

[Murr1525]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

Dont want to be too agressive all at once.

Would have to say more about your technique to maybe help with the #9.

[Motorsports-X]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

can you elaborate on what the 9 is doing? maybe some pics

[Hawk312]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

I`ll try to get some outside pictures soon guys. I`m not sure how soon I will be able to move the car though.
I am using the #9 in place of 205, just since I happen to have the #9 on hand. It seems to be working really well, except that it seems to want to clump fairly easily. I really need to back of the speed on the buffer. Anyone know why this might be happening?
Here is a pic of my wifes car I did today with the 105 followed by #9, followed by Zaino (can I say that here?). I used the maroon pad for the 105 and the yellow pad for the #9.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 --> m205 = m105 --> #9 ????

What speed are you running the #9 at? If you're running it too fast you could be drying it out quickly. As more of a finishing polish it should be run at a pretty low speed, like 1200 rpm max. A great alternative to #9, and a definite step up, is M205 Ultra Finishing Polish. Run that on a finishing pad at 1000 rpm max and you'll really add a lot of clarity and gloss to the finish. You should easily be able to go from M105 on either a wool or foam cutting pad straight to M205 before applying your wax or sealant. And, yes, we're OK with you using Zaino, if that's what you like.

Is there a reason why you needed the maroon cutting pad with M105 on your wife's car? That's a very aggressive approach and if all you were trying to do was remove swirls (rather than sanding marks) you probably didn't need to go that aggressive at all.

Interesting to see that big flange on the rockers of the thirdgen you're working on. As a former owner of a thirdgen ('92 Camaro RS) we never saw it with the side skirts off and never knew that big ol' flange was hiding under there!