LSP Haze
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  1. #1
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    LSP Haze

    I've been experimenting with different waxes to find the perfect look for my Black Mustang.

    I've tried Zymol, GC, NXT and Mother's Carnuba.

    Zymol is in the trash. I really like the dark color left with GC. NXT leaves a very nice finish, but I don't think it's as dark as GC. The jury is still out on the carnuba.

    After my run-in with the car wash, I've been working on scratch removal with #83 and #80 a section at a time. I did the hood a few days ago with GC as the LSP. Then, a day later, I started on the driver's side fender. During polishing of the horizontal surface of the fender, the PC overlapped onto the hood. After I wiped #80 off, I stepped back to admire my handy work, and I noticed that the section of hood that my polish hit looked much darker than the remaining section that still had wax. Upon closer inspection, there was a *definite* line between the overlap area and the previously waxed area. I was surprised to see that the waxed section looked slightly hazy/milky compared the overlap area given that I just waxed it the night before, and the overlap area was just that, overlap. I wasn't working the #83 or #80 in on that section.

    Why did that happen? From a color perspective, the finish looked better after a paint cleaning/polishing than it did with day old wax.

    Thanks,

    John
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  2. #2
    Registered Member travisdecpn's Avatar
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    I could be that the oils in 80 darkened the paint a bit and that the GC removed those oils when it was applied. It is a cleaner wax, and it is possible that it may have removed the polishing oils left behind by 80, just my opinion, don't quote me on that please. If I were you I would look into #26, it is a pure wax and will darken your paint to the look you are going for.

  3. #3
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    That certainly sounds feasible. Thanks for the suggestion. One of these days, I'm going to come home with 'one more bottle of wax' and my wife is gonna kick me out, I know it. My neighbor already thinks I've lost it.

    Meguiar's needs a sample packs. One with all of their glazes and another with all of their LSP's.
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  4. #4
    Registered Member travisdecpn's Avatar
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    A little heads up on the #26, it's on closeout at all autozones across the country for 99 cents. If you get a chance check your local store.

  5. #5
    aka 2hotford Tim Lingor's Avatar
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    Hey xxp,

    Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze contains a healthy dose of TS Oils which help to beautify the paint's surface. If you want a little more 'pop', I suggest that you follow the #80 with #81 Hand Polish which is a pure polish that contains even more of the TS Oils. Then top the surface with Gold Class or Gold Class topped with #26.

    Tim

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    Originally posted by 2hotford
    Hey xxp,

    Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze contains a healthy dose of TS Oils which help to beautify the paint's surface. If you want a little more 'pop', I suggest that you follow the #80 with #81 Hand Polish which is a pure polish that contains even more of the TS Oils. Then top the surface with Gold Class or Gold Class topped with #26.

    Tim
    2hotford:
    What does "TS" stand for in TS Oils?
    How does #81 compare to #7? I've got #7.
    What's the difference between your suggestion of #26 over GC and say, GC over #26? Is #26 a more durable wax (carnuba)?

    travisdecpn: I saw that mentioned earlier, and I got the last can of #26 from my local Autozone today. Thanks for the reminder.
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  7. #7
    aka 2hotford Tim Lingor's Avatar
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    Hey,

    TS stands for Trade Secret oils which is an essential part of the Meguiar's pure polish.

    Meguiar's #81 Hand Polish was designed for Clear Coat (BC/CC) paint whereas #7 Show Car Glaze was designed for single stage paint. With that said, the #7 has the highest amount of TS Oils though the #81 is a little easier to remove. Either one will work well with either paint type (with the above noted differences).

    The reason I suggest that you use #26 over GC instead of the converse is because #26 is a blended wax with no cleaning ability. Therefore, one usually places the non-cleaning product last on the finish.

    I hope this helps!

    Tim

  8. #8
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    2hotford, What do you think of travisdecpn's comments that a cleaning wax perhaps could be removing some of the TS oils left behind by the #80 or #7 and that perhaps using a pure polish (which everyone seems to agree that #26 is) first--to avoid removing the TS oils--then NXT or GC on top of #26?

    Thanks for answering my questions, I'm very interested in learning how all of these products interact.

    John
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  9. #9
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    Originally posted by travisdecpn
    A little heads up on the #26, it's on closeout at all autozones across the country for 99 cents. If you get a chance check your local store.
    I picked up a can yesterday and told my wife about the sale. While she was out running around today, she brought me 11 more cans! I think it's safe to say that the West side of Columbus Ohio is officially out of #26. I'll probably be giving the stuff to my friends for birthday's.
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  10. #10
    Registered Member Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    When testing, try to keep as many variables as possible, the same. For example, compare a polish and a wax after applying both at the same time and then wiping them off. Then measure the fall off of these results the same way as time goes by or as the car is wiped and/or washed.

    Gold Class is a polish/wax and M26 is a pure wax, the Gold Class actually does contain Meguiar's polishing oils also and this is one of the reasons it has the ability to create rich, reflective results.
    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

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