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  • New detailing project

    Hi yall. So I decided to detail my father's 2005 Honda Pilot. I mean. It's not in too bad condition. It's a green/sage color with the little shiny jewels. It has scratches, bird droppings, slight swirls, and the paint has faded a whole lot. My mission/goal is to restore the paint/orginial color while removing the defects and having a glossy finish
    My approach to this was

    1.Clean (Megs Gold class)
    2. Dry/Claybar (Megs Clay Kit)
    3. Dress Tires with (Sanctiond T40216 Tire Glaze Gel)
    4. Apply Mothers 06108 Back-to-Black Trim care on all Vinyl
    5. Apply PlastX on Headlights
    5. Apply UC with (7006 6.5" Cutting Foam Pad)
    6. Apply ColorX with (8006 6.5" Polishing Foam pad) - A bit confused here
    7. Apply NXT 2.0 with (9006 6.5" Finishing Foam pad)

    My problem is. Is it proper to use ColorX after UC? I know its a polish/wax but it has cleaning abrasives as well.
    Is that the right order?
    Is it correct to use a Polishing pad with ColorX?
    What would be a better choice instead of ColorX? (M20, Cleaner wax, M205, just throwing out some products I have..)

    I will update with pictures asap. (currently do not own a camera, so I have to borrow one)

  • #2
    Re: New detailing project

    1. OK
    2. OK
    3-4: May want to dress when you are done.
    5a. OK
    5b. Tend to want a polishing pad, would be good t oat least try a test area with it first.
    6. Well, it is in the right order, so isn't bad. The other option would be something like Ult. Polish/#205 and then 2 coats of wax after. And yeah, the polishing pad should be good.
    7. OK.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: New detailing project

      My pilot has hard paint so I had to use DAMF system. Honda paint is all over from extremely soft to hard. But with the corrections from Murr you are good to go. You will find that order of product/operations to work on many cars. What you are doing is kinda my go to or default setup. Hate to remind but tape off a 2x2 area and run a test for your entire process. Based on result you may want to tweak it.

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      • #4
        Re: New detailing project

        Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post
        1. OK
        2. OK
        3-4: May want to dress when you are done.
        5a. OK
        5b. Tend to want a polishing pad, would be good t oat least try a test area with it first.
        6. Well, it is in the right order, so isn't bad. The other option would be something like Ult. Polish/#205 and then 2 coats of wax after. And yeah, the polishing pad should be good.
        7. OK.
        AH Thank you thank you Murr! Sorry for the misnumbering, posted this kinda late while high off nyquil. Sweet, so I dress everything after I'm done waxing/polishing. Oh! I'll try a polishing pad first! When do I use a cutting pad? I think I'll go with #205 rather than COLORx then! (depending on how much color is brought back right?)
        Quick question. Can I use the same polishing pad that I used for UC for the #205? How about if I had used a polishing pad two weeks prior with UP? Is that pad solely for UP?

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        • #5
          Re: New detailing project

          Sorry, meant to ask. Is putting the wet pad onto a terry cloth towel and turning it on, enough to clean off a one time used pad?

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          • #6
            Re: New detailing project

            Cutting pads arent used as often with a DA. Sometimes they end up being needed, but definitely just a test spot kind of thing first.

            You may even want to change pads one or twice, at least with the UC step, in order to get the best cleaning ability.

            And no, you'll want clean pads.

            After they are used, you can wash and squeeze the product out of the pads, and let them dry completely. Can be used for other products then.

            The "cleaning on the fly" with the terry towel is meant to be done after each panel just to clean off the surface some. Not to wash the pad completely clean.
            2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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            • #7
              Re: New detailing project

              Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post
              Cutting pads arent used as often with a DA. Sometimes they end up being needed, but definitely just a test spot kind of thing first.

              You may even want to change pads one or twice, at least with the UC step, in order to get the best cleaning ability.

              And no, you'll want clean pads.

              After they are used, you can wash and squeeze the product out of the pads, and let them dry completely. Can be used for other products then.

              The "cleaning on the fly" with the terry towel is meant to be done after each panel just to clean off the surface some. Not to wash the pad completely clean.
              Because of the nature of the abrasives you should clean the pads either by hand or in a washing machine. I have about 4 to 6 of each the black and yellow pads. This way I don't get half way done and have to wait for my pads to wash and dry to apply next product. Only when working with second quote of a different wax do I use the same pad, but even then I would use a fresh pad when available. Sponging out extra product before washing will help keep pads top notch.

              where are you in la Veeedub? Also what vw you have?

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              • #8
                Re: New detailing project

                Originally posted by s word View Post
                Because of the nature of the abrasives you should clean the pads either by hand or in a washing machine. I have about 4 to 6 of each the black and yellow pads. This way I don't get half way done and have to wait for my pads to wash and dry to apply next product. Only when working with second quote of a different wax do I use the same pad, but even then I would use a fresh pad when available. Sponging out extra product before washing will help keep pads top notch.

                where are you in la Veeedub? Also what vw you have?
                I think I will wash by hand because my friend put it in the washing machine and when he uses the pads to buff, they just shed out small particles/powder. That sounds good!

                I live around alhambra! I actually drive a white Acura ILX! My Initials make VW!

                Oh! The other day I detailed my car. I used UP/UQW (ran out of time). Keep in mind this was my first time using a DA polisher. During the polishing process, I was a little confused on when to buff out the polish. My process was. 1. Spread product onto my PC7424. 2. Wipe onto Panel. 3. Press the PC and start spreading the polish at a speed of (3) 4. After a once around, I increased the speed to 5 and went on to work the polishing overlapping 50% of the time. 5. The polish began to thin but using the swipe method, it sometime still looked hazy. I feel like the polish just kept rewetting itself. I'm pretty sure I did not apply too much polish either! I feel like I could buff the polish out even after a once around!

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                • #9
                  Re: New detailing project

                  I am confused...Are you applying polish like a wax?
                  how much pressure are you applying to the pad?

                  most polishes I know are intended to be removed when wet still. Polishes and compounds shouldn't dry on car or require buffing. You want to remove the product right after working it so that it is still wet.

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                  • #10
                    Re: New detailing project

                    Originally posted by s word View Post
                    I am confused...Are you applying polish like a wax?
                    how much pressure are you applying to the pad?

                    most polishes I know are intended to be removed when wet still. Polishes and compounds shouldn't dry on car or require buffing. You want to remove the product right after working it so that it is still wet.
                    I think that's what I did at first. For my hood, I was attempting to do the swipe test and it kept coming out wet. After a while, I came to the conclusion that it's supposed to be removed while still wet because it's just a polish. I used UP!
                    So most polishes are removed when wet? Should I still increase the speed to 5?
                    What about Sealants like M20 or Ultimate compound/Colorx? Do I wait for those?

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                    • #11
                      Re: New detailing project

                      Originally posted by veeedub View Post
                      I think that's what I did at first. For my hood, I was attempting to do the swipe test and it kept coming out wet. After a while, I came to the conclusion that it's supposed to be removed while still wet because it's just a polish. I used UP!
                      So most polishes are removed when wet? Should I still increase the speed to 5?
                      What about Sealants like M20 or Ultimate compound/Colorx? Do I wait for those?
                      some directions can be a bit blurry on removing wet or dry but see what the directions say when using each item. I don't think you need faster speed most of the time I polish at lower speeds. I have g110v2 and use speed 3 when polishing. I haven't used that sealant so I don't know. But UC/ Colorx should be removed when wet.

                      typically I do my passes on a single 2x2 area then wipe immediately when done. Some products have a longer working time so you can do many passes without them drying up on you. Wax,glazes and sealants can vary. Even some waxes you remove when wet. Always read the directions to see what manufacturer suggests

                      but if you are in Alhambra I heavily suggest you head out to a free 101 class at Meg's HQ in irvine. My idea of detailing was buying good soap before I attended class. This class will give you enough information and pizza to keep you happy and increase your ability to fix paint.

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                      • #12
                        Re: New detailing project

                        Originally posted by s word View Post
                        some directions can be a bit blurry on removing wet or dry but see what the directions say when using each item. I don't think you need faster speed most of the time I polish at lower speeds. I have g110v2 and use speed 3 when polishing. I haven't used that sealant so I don't know. But UC/ Colorx should be removed when wet.

                        typically I do my passes on a single 2x2 area then wipe immediately when done. Some products have a longer working time so you can do many passes without them drying up on you. Wax,glazes and sealants can vary. Even some waxes you remove when wet. Always read the directions to see what manufacturer suggests

                        but if you are in Alhambra I heavily suggest you head out to a free 101 class at Meg's HQ in irvine. My idea of detailing was buying good soap before I attended class. This class will give you enough information and pizza to keep you happy and increase your ability to fix paint.
                        Thanks! I think I'll give those classes a try once I get a few days off work.

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