If #80 has dried, you have gone too far. You want to start out by misting your pad with some QD like #34 and apply the speed glaze in an "X" shape to ensure that the the initial marring is kept to a minimum. You work #80 unitl it starts to become almost clear, but still wet. This will help prevent dry buffing and make removal easier. The reduce splatter you can spread out the product on the surface before you engage the rotary. Hope this helps, keep those questions coming.
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Originally posted by LnkPrkSoldier
should there be a guide to speed?? rpm or opm - wise? like how do i know when to stop? when it becomes a really dry haze? anybody have pictures so i won't stop too late or early???
Here’s a link to speed and pad recommendation for rotaries.
Polishes and cleaners shouldn’t be worked dry. They only need to be worked until the diminishing abrasives break down; about the time they turn almost clear and are still just slightly wet.
PC.
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Originally posted by travisdecpn
If #80 has dried, you have gone too far. You want to start out by misting your pad with some QD like #34 and apply the speed glaze in an "X" shape to ensure that the the initial marring is kept to a minimum. You work #80 unitl it starts to become almost clear, but still wet. This will help prevent dry buffing and make removal easier. The reduce splatter you can spread out the product on the surface before you engage the rotary. Hope this helps, keep those questions coming.
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If you have the quick detail stuff already, go ahead and use it, it's not going to hurt anything. Qd'ing the car before the #80 step isn't really needed, but if you want to use that stuff up, go for it. As you were saying, you can use it to "prime" the pad as well. If you have a pep boy's close to you you may want to try them, they seem to have a better meg's selection than autozone, kragen is another good retailer. Good luck and have fun.
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the #80 didn't do much to my view. maybe thats just because of the color. it would be a lot more noticeable if it were black. i guess my color has its pros and cons. i applied to the passenger side of the hood. but on these pics it doesn't show much. this is after gold class wash, #80 and nxt past wax. i need to clay but i jsut don't want to.... oh and superior shine. i am looking for your detailing shop. its in covina correct? im looking for you to clean my carpet. no need for the floor mats. just the interior in my 87' mercedes 300e. a little carpet and the only stain that i know of is in the back passenger seat area. other than that, its clean but i just want it really clean. never been cleaned since 87!
i couldn't open the gallery so i have to do this...Attached Files
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ok... i am now swirl free and want the highest gloss , or the optimum gloss. i have used #80, and nxt and also as shown in this picture, 2 layers of turtle wax carnuaba blend. pretty good for the cost if you ask me. i ahave also applied a layer of show car glaze. what should i do now? i just found out the the bumpers are actually painted, i saw a part that was flaking off and that made me decide it was paint. i just hope i can get it dark, time for the nxt and colorx on that. well when it gets a little colder. so should i just apply another 2 layers of show car glaze topped off with 2 layers of my choice of wax? here is a picture, i washed her 3 days ago
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Originally posted by LnkPrkSoldier
.... oh and superior shine. i am looking for your detailing shop. its in covina correct? ...
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