Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

[Jbirk]

Alright,

I have not serriously detailed a car since maybe 2005 or 2006, when I used to frequent this forum regularly. Sure, I kept my cars looking great, but I haven't desired to use a machine in a long time! Need help from someone I trust like Mike or Murr (you have been on here for years, buddy advising me way back a decade ago)!

Back then my process was:
1. Wash /w Gold Class Soap (because it has more lubricity than Deep Crystal or Next Soap) RINSE / DO NOT DRY
2. Clay with Quik Clay & Soapy Water... RINSE / DRY
3. Clean the paint with a G100 (version 1) with #80 or #83 followed by #80 on a foam 8000 series foam pad.
4. Sometimes polish with Deep Crystal #2 or not worry about it as #80 looks pretty good.
5. Wax it with Nxt Tech Wax (and later Nxt Tech Wax 2.0)

I tried ColorX, too and loved it though I think I used to use it by hand. ScratchX 2.0 removed plenty stuck on waterspots, too. Took out some factory defects on my last car.

For the insides, I always used the Quick Interior Detailer... Love the stuff and STILL use it today!

***************************

Now, everything is pretty much the same but with updated products, but I gave away my G100 to a friend. Okay, actually he borrowed it, and I never got it back. (NOTE to self... do NOT load tools).

Anyway, I have found the Ultimate Products and have used the Ultimate Trim Detailer, and the Ultimate Wash and Wax (love it), and tons of the Ultimate Quick Detailer. I have even used the Ultimate Quick Detailer for claying even though it goes against what people on the forum say. My thoughts on the subject are that it is certainly providing plenty of lubrication and wipes up fine, so it must be okay???

For the interior of my new car, I use a ton of the Gold Class Leather Cleaner & Conditioner... It is pretty good.

Let me just say, that my most commonly used product today is Ultimate Quick Detailer. I seem to buy a bottle of it every couple weeks, Doh!


What I need is an updated procedure:

1. Obviously, I still need to wash. I have already determined I will be using the Ultimate Wash and Wax based soley on preference because I like it better than the Gold Class... it seems more "slick"

2. I clay with the Smooth Surface Clay Kit though admittedly I use soap most of the time saving the Quik Detailer.

3. This is where I need help. Apparently the #80 series with the Diminishing abrasives have been depreciated and one can expect superior results with the newer #100 or #200 series products using the newer abrasives.

Okay, so what do I buy? It seems everyone rants and raves about #105, but to me that seems crazy with a cutting power of 12, that places it WAY above even #85 on the old system I am used to... and #85 is pretty ruthless stuff that pretty much scoured paint but would "cut" very hard paint.

My car doesn't have anything but some light swirls from the dealer doing those "courtesy" car washes even after being told NOT to wash! I DO appreciate their courtesy vacuum though.

The car is a 2013 Infiniti G37 in the "platinum" (silver) color. I purchased it new on January 24th, 2014 because I liked it MUCH more than the Q50, which has a lot of latency on the touch screen & the terrible no-feedback all-electronic steering - NO THANKS to that. I will take variably proportioned, power-assist rack-and-pinion any day! Want to be able to "feel" the road.



4. What do I use to polish? or do the #100 or the #200 series leave enough behind, or will it be worth my time to go back over the paint with something like Deep Crystal #2? (any hope skipping this step by combining it with #3 or #5)

5. How is Ultimate Sealant err. "Ultimate Wax" I DID buy it and can vouch that it goes on and comes off easier on my neighbor's white car... it was the test car for this product... We washed, clayed, and waxed her car.

^^^^ Oh, and I still have half a bottle left after doing that one white Honda Crosstour. <== Don't ask. Suffice it to say, when you do someone a favor, it is actually easier when they don't help. I have NEVER seen wax put on so thick that it took a handfull of microfibers to get it off!


I need to buy a new DA. Should I get a G110 v2 or something different?

What foam pads do I need to Clean, Polish, and Wax? What pad to apply what polish/cleaner? What pad to apply wax/sealant?


Oh, and I DID just place a gallon of Meguiar's #135 Detailer... From what I read this is more or less roughly equivalent to the Ultimate Quik Detailer.

[Jarhead0754]

1st when doing a correction to ur car I wouldn't use uww. Stick with the gold class cuz. Use the uww in between corrections as a booster to ur wax. Reason being is with uww ur putting a tiny film of wax kn the car but then removing it with clay and compounding.

U can go with #105 and #205. But I say just stick with ultimate compound and ultimate polish topped with ultimate wax for longevity. U can always throw #7 in for the xtra shine as well.

Go with the g110v2 and meguiars soft buff 2.0 pads. U will need a few uellow polishing pads and a couple black finishing pads.

It's hard to say use what pad with what but typically u would use the yellow with ultimate compound, yellow with polish. And apply wax with the black. The polish may b needed with a black pad but that's where I say it's hard to see what u need without seeing the car and doing a test spot.

[Murr1525]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

UQD leaves a coating behind... so you are covering up what your want to remove with a slick coating when claying. Also, M135 would be better to buy if using a lot.

Ult Compound and #205 probably are the best general combination to have on hand for strong and mild cleaner/polish.

Really like the ult wax so far. And UQW after washing

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

M105/M205 and UC/UP utilize the newest SMAT technology. With that being said you won't need a compound all the time like M105 or UC unless you have severely neglected the car or the defects can not be removed by a polish (ie UP or M205).

I agree with what is said above. UW&W is a good maintenance soap that leaves your car with that freshly waxed car. For correction I would stick with Gold Class or even deep crystal if you want to save a few dollars. If you want to get more bang for your buck I recommend D111 shampoo plus form the detailer line.

Onto the claying. I would use M135 as directed which is as a maintenance product that boosts your existing wax. It is not intended to be used a clay lube. Stick with the clay kit or if you want to get more for your money get D155 last touch. It can be used straight as a QD or diluted for clay lube.

I'm also going to throw D156 spray wax into the mix as it's a must have. Use it in between washes to maintain that shine and protection.

To answer your question about UW. It is the longest lasting wax currently offered in the Meguiar's line. Apply it thin and you are good to go.

As far as compounds and polishes, You can't go wrong with either line. UC/UP are derived from M105/M205 just intended to be more user friendly. My personal recommendation for a polish is M205. It is so versatile. Not only does it offer nice correction but it also offers refines the finish so nicely. For a compound I would start off with UC first. If you need more correction then you can move to M105.

Stick with either theses DA's G110, Porter Cable 7424XP, Griots Garage. Brett already provided you with info on the pads. I'm a lake country pad user myself.

A quick tip, always do a test spot with the least aggressive product. For example start with M205 on a polishing pad. If this gives you the correction you need then keep going. If not then you move to the compound.

Typical 5 step correction
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Compound
4. Polish
5. Wax

After you correct your car then this is where your maintenance products take over. UW&W, M135, D156.

The others will chime in in case I missed something.

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

1st when doing a correction to ur car I wouldn't use uww. Stick with the gold class cuz. Use the uww in between corrections as a booster to ur wax. Reason being is with uww ur putting a tiny film of wax kn the car but then removing it with clay and compounding.

U can go with #105 and #205. But I say just stick with ultimate compound and ultimate polish topped with ultimate wax for longevity. U can always throw #7 in for the xtra shine as well.

Go with the g110v2 and meguiars soft buff 2.0 pads. U will need a few uellow polishing pads and a couple black finishing pads.

It's hard to say use what pad with what but typically u would use the yellow with ultimate compound, yellow with polish. And apply wax with the black. The polish may b needed with a black pad but that's where I say it's hard to see what u need without seeing the car and doing a test spot.

Perfect, I will buy a couple black and yellow Megs pads and a G110v2. Do I need a backing plate, any fancy extension cords, carrying case, face shield, etc?


I swear I ordinarily don't keep two (2) types of wash on hand, and UWW works fine with clay as does UQD... both are slicker than snot, but do not seem to impede the clay from working properly... Regardless, I guess it is reasonable to buy some other products as GC Wash is cheaper than UWW, and QD is cheaper than UQD...



I already ordered a gallon of #135. What do you think? Should I get some Last Touch to mix up as a good clay lube or just buy Gold Class wash?

Honestly, the GC Wash is probably the most economical as a 48oz bottle (about $7) theoretically mixes up to be about 48 gallons of clay lube.

Regardless, I think I am going to get one of these for Quick Detailer:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3908903&KPID=6925658&pla=pla_6925658

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

M105/M205 and UC/UP utilize the newest SMAT technology. With that being said you won't need a compound all the time like M105 or UC unless you have severely neglected the car or the defects can not be removed by a polish (ie UP or M205).

I agree with what is said above. UW&W is a good maintenance soap that leaves your car with that freshly waxed car. For correction I would stick with Gold Class or even deep crystal if you want to save a few dollars. If you want to get more bang for your buck I recommend D111 shampoo plus form the detailer line.

Onto the claying. I would use M135 as directed which is as a maintenance product that boosts your existing wax. It is not intended to be used a clay lube. Stick with the clay kit or if you want to get more for your money get D155 last touch. It can be used straight as a QD or diluted for clay lube.

I'm also going to throw D156 spray wax into the mix as it's a must have. Use it in between washes to maintain that shine and protection.

To answer your question about UW. It is the longest lasting wax currently offered in the Meguiar's line. Apply it thin and you are good to go.

As far as compounds and polishes, You can't go wrong with either line. UC/UP are derived from M105/M205 just intended to be more user friendly. My personal recommendation for a polish is M205. It is so versatile. Not only does it offer nice correction but it also offers refines the finish so nicely. For a compound I would start off with UC first. If you need more correction then you can move to M105.

Stick with either theses DA's G110, Porter Cable 7424XP, Griots Garage. Brett already provided you with info on the pads. I'm a lake country pad user myself.

A quick tip, always do a test spot with the least aggressive product. For example start with M205 on a polishing pad. If this gives you the correction you need then keep going. If not then you move to the compound.

Typical 5 step correction
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Compound
4. Polish
5. Wax

After you correct your car then this is where your maintenance products take over. UW&W, M135, D156.

The others will chime in in case I missed something.

Thank you... I will order some Last Touch, some #205, UC, and UP. I feel really awkward about using #105 - it just seems too powerful to me. Maybe if I were trying to remove wet sanding marks, which I am not it would make sense. At least I cannot see taking something that is 12/12 in cutting ability when something like #85 Diamond Cut has MUCH LESS cutting ability, yet would scour the paint like a Scotch Brite pad if I were silly enough to try it.

Does the Ultimate Polish actually "cut" or "clean" the paint? Or is it a pure polish like Deep Crystal #2?



Okay, someone recommended #7 as a polish. How does#7 compare with DC#2, which I already have, and Ultimate Polish?


As a side note, I have ColorX, ScratchX 2.0, and SwirlX. Where do these fit in against the new products? Should I just jump to using #205?

If it doesn't work, would I step up to SwirlX, ScratchX, Ultimate Compound, or #105? i.e. What would be the order of things?

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

UQD leaves a coating behind... so you are covering up what your want to remove with a slick coating when claying. Also, M135 would be better to buy if using a lot.

Ult Compound and #205 probably are the best general combination to have on hand for strong and mild cleaner/polish.

Really like the ult wax so far. And UQW after washing

Don't slap me with a trout, but I still have some Eagle-1 Wax-As-You-Dry, which I have probably had since 2006... It is still liquid, and I still use it... Until it's out, I see no reason to buy or supplement with another product... When the time comes I am going to try UQW as its replacement though!


I try to be a one(1) product for one(1) purpose kind of guy. While I know you could protect a car with Gold Class Wax, Next Tech 2.0, Ultimate Wax (sealant), #20 Sealant, Hi-Tech #26, or #21, and that just about all of these products come in both a paste or liquid... I see no reason to try them all... Just other people who spend a LOT more time/money than I do detailing just tell me which one is best & I will buy it, lol.

Simply put, I like to find one product that works and stick with it.... when it is nearly out, I look for an "improved" version of the same thing (or something better). As far as I know everything ultimately gets down to preference.

Some people may apply a sealant for example then top with a wax, some products are sealant/wax blends, etc. I always figured I would apply only one coat because if a second coat is 2% better, I am past the point of diminishing returns. I also figure the solvents in any given product probably remove the product below it. That is to say I don't actually believe in layering.

I might be totally wrong correct me if I am wrong but these are more or less equivalents:

Gold Class Wax = Hi Tech Yellow #26
Next Tech Wax 2.0 = Polymer Sealant #20
Ultimate Wax (Sealant) = Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21

[Jarhead0754]

With the g110v2 it will come with a backing plate for the 2.0 pads, bag, xtra brushes. However if u use other pads like the damf or the 4" pads u will need a different backing plate. I just assume make it easy and stick with meguiars pads but the guz mention lake country pads which are excellent as well. His advice should carry alot of weight with u as he knows what he's talking about.

It's hard to say what pad and product u should start out with. If u post a close up pic if the paint we can give u a better idea. Typically u go with the least aggressive and work ur way up as necessary. But i would do uc on a yellow pad. U could follow it with #205 or UP on a yellow 2.0 pad.

UP has more polishing oils in it than 205, however u will still get some minor correction with it. Everything depends on product and pads as to how much cut or polish u get along with hard or soft paint.

As far as #7 it is a pure glaze just for added gloss. U can add it after UP or 205. As far as color x it is a cleaner wax, scratch x is more for spot repair and swirl x is minor swirls.

[Jarhead0754]

Nobody here is gonna criticize u for using other than meguiars. Alot of people have other products. U find something u like and stick with it. However when doing any kind of correction it is silly to use any products with wax in them just cuz it's more lubricated for claying.

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Nobody here is gonna criticize u for using other than meguiars. Alot of people have other products. U find something u like and stick with it. However when doing any kind of correction it is silly to use any products with wax in them just cuz it's more lubricated for claying.

Thanks... That helps a lot. I was just using the products with wax in them simply because I had them in-stock at-home and figured they would do the job without a trip to buy more products. Ultimately, I just figured I need something *slick* to clay to avoid marring the paint.

My paint right now is in excellent shape, but it is not in "show car" shape. There is ever so slight a faint cobb-webbing effect, but you cannot see it at all because the Nxt 2.0 (on it currently) has completely covered it even in bright sunlight...

That said, the paint is NOT perfect... and at some point it WILL be necessary to polish it as the cobb webbing gets to the point where it cannot be completely hidden by a pure polish/wax.

One Good (Bad) thing is the platinum is a pretty light color, so it doesn't show the defects nearly as much as my last car. The downside, is platinum (AKA Silver) is pretty boring. It is a LOT like working on a white car... sure it is highly reflective, but there just isn't much depth. My last car looked GREAT! It was a 2008 Mazda, with paint that looked almost as good as a new 2014 model. It was reflective and barely swirled... it WAS getting to be time to machine polish it with a DA, but I traded-it away instead.

Regardless,

[Eldorado2k]

Correction: If you still have a bottle of "wax as you dry" from 2006, that would mean you do not use it.
Either that, or you've been driving a smartcar for the past decade:p lol.

[Jarhead0754]

If u have minor swirls like u say then swirl x or 205 on yellow polishing pad 2.0 would get rid of those. Even a cleaner wax might do good but again without seeing it i really can't tell.

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Perfect, I will buy a couple black and yellow Megs pads and a G110v2. Do I need a backing plate, any fancy extension cords, carrying case, face shield, etc?


I swear I ordinarily don't keep two (2) types of wash on hand, and UWW works fine with clay as does UQD... both are slicker than snot, but do not seem to impede the clay from working properly... Regardless, I guess it is reasonable to buy some other products as GC Wash is cheaper than UWW, and QD is cheaper than UQD...



I already ordered a gallon of #135. What do you think? Should I get some Last Touch to mix up as a good clay lube or just buy Gold Class wash?

Honestly, the GC Wash is probably the most economical as a 48oz bottle (about $7) theoretically mixes up to be about 48 gallons of clay lube.

Regardless, I think I am going to get one of these for Quick Detailer:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...la=pla_6925658

I don't use soapy water as clay lube myself bit if it works for you then keep using it. I use D155 last touch as clay lube. $19.99 for 128 oz's is very cost effective. Plus the added benefit of using it a s a QD. Both M135 and D155 have their place. M135 has the hydrophobic properties and gives your wax that little boost. D155 is a QD similar to what you get in the clay kit. Both will last you a long time. I actually re-purpose the consumer bottles and fill them up.

Also D111 shampoo plus is 128 oz at $19.99. Dilution ratio is 1oz/gallon. Very cost effective.

Also consider getting one of these little pump sprayers. They actually work great with a rinseless wash.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272962

Thank you... I will order some Last Touch, some #205, UC, and UP. I feel really awkward about using #105 - it just seems too powerful to me. Maybe if I were trying to remove wet sanding marks, which I am not it would make sense. At least I cannot see taking something that is 12/12 in cutting ability when something like #85 Diamond Cut has MUCH LESS cutting ability, yet would scour the paint like a Scotch Brite pad if I were silly enough to try it.

Does the Ultimate Polish actually "cut" or "clean" the paint? Or is it a pure polish like Deep Crystal #2?



Okay, someone recommended #7 as a polish. How does#7 compare with DC#2, which I already have, and Ultimate Polish?


As a side note, I have ColorX, ScratchX 2.0, and SwirlX. Where do these fit in against the new products? Should I just jump to using #205?

If it doesn't work, would I step up to SwirlX, ScratchX, Ultimate Compound, or #105? i.e. What would be the order of things?

You won't need both UP or M205. The difference between the 2 is that M205 offers more correction ability and UP offers more polishing oils. UP still has correction ability.

M105 won't scour the paint. It can sometimes finish LSP ready.

M7 is a pure polish. It offers no correction. It gives you more gloss if you need it. M7 can hide swirls as it fills them in along with minor blemishes. It also doesn't offer any protection. It will last a few washes. If you are correcting with a DA I would stick with M205 or UP.

If you are looking to do a quick detail then this is where colorx would come into play. By quick detail I mean wash, clay, cleaner wax and as an option laying down a wax like ultimate or NXT 2.0 for longer protection.

Swirlx is a cleaner polish. Sort of a similar to M205. M205 is so versatile you won't need those other products.

This link will help you out.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...t-surprise-you!

To answer your question there is no standard procedure as all paint responds differently. That is why a test spot with the least aggressive product is recommended as I previously stated. This will tell you how the paint is responding. I would try M205 or UP first with the proper pad. If this works then follow up with a wax. If you need more correction then go to UC > M205 > wax. If you need more correction then go to M105 > M205 >wax.

This chart should help you out to see the cut level of the various meguiar's products.

Don't slap me with a trout, but I still have some Eagle-1 Wax-As-You-Dry, which I have probably had since 2006... It is still liquid, and I still use it... Until it's out, I see no reason to buy or supplement with another product... When the time comes I am going to try UQW as its replacement though!


I try to be a one(1) product for one(1) purpose kind of guy. While I know you could protect a car with Gold Class Wax, Next Tech 2.0, Ultimate Wax (sealant), #20 Sealant, Hi-Tech #26, or #21, and that just about all of these products come in both a paste or liquid... I see no reason to try them all... Just other people who spend a LOT more time/money than I do detailing just tell me which one is best & I will buy it, lol.

Simply put, I like to find one product that works and stick with it.... when it is nearly out, I look for an "improved" version of the same thing (or something better). As far as I know everything ultimately gets down to preference.

Some people may apply a sealant for example then top with a wax, some products are sealant/wax blends, etc. I always figured I would apply only one coat because if a second coat is 2% better, I am past the point of diminishing returns. I also figure the solvents in any given product probably remove the product below it. That is to say I don't actually believe in layering.

I might be totally wrong correct me if I am wrong but these are more or less equivalents:

Gold Class Wax = Hi Tech Yellow #26
Next Tech Wax 2.0 = Polymer Sealant #20
Ultimate Wax (Sealant) = Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21

When you are ready for ultimate quik wax get D156. Saves you money getting it in bulk.

Topping is very common. Some will not see the difference and some of us will. Meguiar's recommends 2 coats of any product to ensure even coverage. FYI M26 doesn't have any type of cleaners that will remove the previous layer if you top your sealant.

Modified your list to paint you a more accurate picture.

Gold Class Wax = Hi Tech Yellow #26 both carnauba based products
Polymer Sealant #20 is a cleaner synthetic wax. It would fall more into the cleaner wax family with M6, white wax, black wax, colorx, A12 (maroon bottle), D151, D301. The main pro for M20 is that is lasts longer since it's synthetic based.
NXT 2.0 = Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21 (M21 is the pro version of NXT)
Ultimate wax = There is no equivalent in the pro line.

[Eldorado2k]

@Guz. You refill the consumer bottles? How do you get em open? They seem to have tamper proof tops on them._.

Btw, I've seen a vid where the Junkman applies Meguiars Diamond Cut Compound on a yellow Lake Country foam cutting pad, turns his Porter Cable DA to speed 6, and makes sure to apply heavy pressure along with multiple slow passes on an already perfect hood. It didn't scour one bit. It left it LSP ready

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Yup. I reuse the maroon detail spray, the UQD, UQW, All wheel & tire cleaner. The sprayers twist off. They are twisted on pretty tight but they are removable. If not try some channel locks. That will get them open.