Thoughts about the MT300
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    Registered Member snozan's Avatar
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    Thoughts about the MT300

    So i finally tried it. Worked very well on roof and hood, but as soon as i got to more "non flat areas" like fenders etc i failed on me. It refused to spin like it should (looked at the line on the backplate). Either my technic is poor or this might not be a versitle machine as it says.

    I have an old double oscillating machine, looks like this



    it has two 100mm heads. I had to use that one in the spots were the MT300 failed on me.


    Am i doing something wrong or is the MT300 not supose to fix all areas on a car?

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    Registered Member Old Bear's Avatar
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    Re: Thoughts about the MT300

    As I understand your question, you are using an MT300 to compound or polish. you added a contrasting line to the backing plate, so that you could verify that it is rotating and not just oscilating.
    When working, you saw the backing plate stop (or slow way down) spinning.

    Here are a couple things that can cause that.
    To keep from burning the paint, the MT300 (and most DA polishers) is designed to be used flat to the surface.
    They will stall pad rotation if tipped on an edge. This does not take much of a tip. When we think about it, the tool works best with the full surface of the pad against the paint. When helping someone learn to use a DA polisher, I watch for a slight lift on one edge. If I see as little as enough to get my smallest finger tip under the pad edge, I use my smallest finger tip to point where to where the pad edge is lifted. First.... Yes, that seems more than a little obnoxious! .... However, it helps the new user recognize the rotation is stopping and helps them gain a feel of balancing their two hands with the tool to keep the pad in full contact with the paint. The smallest adjustments of hand position along the long handle will become more automatic as they develop that feel for the tool.

    They can also stall the rotation if too ouch downward pressure is used.

    Additionally, if working too large an area, the product may dry out, slowing the rotation down.

    Probably the best reply in regard to how and why to keep it flat, relative to the surface is to quote Mike Stoops.

    "
    Any DA tool, simply by virtue of their design, will stall pad rotation if tipped on an edge. Some will stall with only moderate downward pressure even with the pad flat against the paint, while others can take some serious pressure and maintain pad rotation. But here's the thing - just because they will keep the pad spinning under heavy pressure doesn't mean you should be using heavy pressure. You definitely want a tool with enough torque to keep the pad spinning during those times when you need to get really aggressive, but in no way does that make the tool dangerous for a novice. In fact, it more likely means the novice will be able to keep the pad spinning even when he tips the tool a bit, allowing him to keep getting defect removal while sharpening his skill set. One of the most common faults we see of new DA users is them struggling to keep the pad flat, or the center line of the pad in contact with the paint on contours. Even the simple contour of a hood sloping downward toward the grille catches new users out; they tend to tense up their upper body and move the tool in a pendulum motion, lifting one side of the pad off the paint and stalling the pad. Stay relaxed, pay attention to the curves of the body panel and flow with them. A low powered tool won't help you through those spots and frustration will set in pretty quickly as you struggle to remove defects. "
    https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...olisher/page17

    I am only guessing that you are using the 5 inch backing plate. This is the backing plate size that the MT300 is most effective.
    However, for tighter more curvy sections of some cars, like a cowl section, switching to the smaller 3 inch backing plate and pads can be helpful. Keep in mind that unlike rotary tools, the DA polisher becomes more aggressive with a smaller pad. So you will need to adjust your technique.

    Can we get a little more information, so that others can help you even more?
    Which product (example: M100, M205, D300) where you using?
    Which pad (example: microfiber cutting, burgandy cutting) and size (6,5,3 inch) were you using?
    Which part of your car, how detailed and curvy were you working on when it stalled?
    Where you tilting the pad to get into a tight area?

    I find that using hand pads, work best for tight areas, like around handles, below windshields, fender extensions (on older cars).


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    Registered Member snozan's Avatar
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    Re: Thoughts about the MT300

    Quote Originally Posted by Old Bear View Post

    Can we get a little more information, so that others can help you even more?
    Which product (example: M100, M205, D300) where you using?
    Which pad (example: microfiber cutting, burgandy cutting) and size (6,5,3 inch) were you using?
    Which part of your car, how detailed and curvy were you working on when it stalled?
    Where you tilting the pad to get into a tight area?

    I find that using hand pads, work best for tight areas, like around handles, below windshields, fender extensions (on older cars).

    Great reply!

    * I used (or uses only the Ultimate serie, compound, polish (wax i always put on by hand)

    * Used the DA foam pads

    * Am doing a Golf 4 estate. Found the doors and fender really hard. So hard i had toi use my other machine



    * yes, i kinda had to, but as i answered previous question i kinda gave up and used my old machine


    The way i read it, its not wrong to use my other machine for tight spots were the MT300 dosent work? It has two 4 inch pads,m however in much lower speed (3500 rpm). However better then by hand? And yes there is spots i need to use both compound and polish by hand, like door handles

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    Michael The Guz's Avatar
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    Re: Thoughts about the MT300

    What speed were you using on the MT300. A lot of it is technique as well. So keep practicing.

    Curved panels will take some practice but can be done.

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    Registered Member snozan's Avatar
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    Re: Thoughts about the MT300

    Quote Originally Posted by The Guz View Post
    What speed were you using on the MT300. A lot of it is technique as well. So keep practicing.

    Curved panels will take some practice but can be done.

    Well here it is kinda wierd. I know there isnt a "recipe" for speeds. But i checked a picture (cant find it in english, only swedish) it says to use 5800 for compound and 4800 for polish



    On the other hand, in the youtube clip "polish like a pro" the speed for comnpound is between 5800/4800, same for polish. This is the speed i used. Between 5800 and 4800. I washed my pads regularly with both the "towel" thingy and meguiars pad washer, that was absolutly great, what a product!

    I cant really ask Meguiars sweden for advice, they are not using the MT300. They uses Rupes (for everything, shows, demostration etc). I guess if i lived in the states, things would sounds like this "Honey, this summer we are going to a meguiars class for holiday"

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    Registered Member snozan's Avatar
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    Re: Thoughts about the MT300

    I see now, why there is different speeds!

    When it came the pads were thicker meaning they needed more rotation (speed) to work fully. When the thinner ones came, it didn't require that speed. Dosent make sense for polish though, but awell i went with "between 5800 and 4800" for that step aswell, not 4800

    And things became alot more easy with the yellow polish pads for those curves. Softer pads so kinda logic. Further more, instead of looking straight on top of the machine, i looked from side to see that the pad was flat against the surface even in curves (well as flat as i could be, enough for it to rotate and spinning, maybe not as much as on flat, but it did rotate).

    Too bad my car i done now lol. Asked my dad if i could do his need to practice some more, now when i starting to learn

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