Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

[GT-LIFE]

Hello Everyone, I just joined the site and was hoping for a little assistance. I just purchased a black 1998 Mitsubishi a few months back and was looking to get the paint in tip top shape. The previous owners didn't care for the paint the way it should have been. It doesn't look bad from far away, but up close it looks like someone washed it with a broom - lots of scratches.

This is what I tried on a small section of the rear deck lid -

1) Washed and dried car
2) Used Clay Bar W/Meguiar's smooth clay kit & detail spray
3) Used Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 with a CCS Orange Pad on a Porter Cable DA polisher (One initial pass on setting 3-1/2, 3-4 passes on setting 5-1/2).
4) Duplicated Swirl remover step.

This took out most of the fine scratches, but not the deeper ones. I ran my nail across the paint where the deep scratches are, but I don't really feel them, so I don't think they are that deep and don't appear to be down to the primer at all.

5) Used Scratch X by hand - not much difference
6) Used Scratch X on orange pad w/ DA Polisher - took out some more fine scratches, but deeper ones are still there.


I was thinking about using the M105 Ultra Cut Compound, but I wasn't sure if this was too aggressive. The problem is there are several tiny spots on the hood and one or two on the roof and deck lid that look like the clear coat is starting to haze or peel. Nothing major, they are a little less than the size of an M&M right now. I am a little worried that the M105 will be too rough and start to really peel the clear coat. I was also thinking about maybe using the Ultimate Compound, but this may not be aggressive enough. Wondering what everyone else's experience has been on an older paint job such as this and what you used.

Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[syswizard]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

M105 is not aggressive....in fact, it's almost a final polish in some cases (usually M205 is the final).
For deep scratches, you'll likely need to wet sand with #2000 paper...then remove the scratches with ScratchX 2.0.
Finally, finish-up with M205.
For those spots with peeling clear coat....you are SOL and will likely need a panel re-paint job.
You might get away with touching up the spots with a clear coating.
Good luck !

[drumdan]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

Both M105 and Ultimate Compound are heavy cut compounds. The heaviest of the two is M105.

Personally I'd try Ultimate Compound first. I'd get green buff and shine, or maroon meguiar's foam cutting discs, or even the microfiber discs. Orange pads don't cut well. I can't for the life of me figure out why anyone uses them for anything. They too stiff to contour, and too smooth and soft to effectively cut when moistvqoth product. They also resist rotation. They might be ok with a finishing polish.

[drumdan]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

M105 is not aggressive....in fact, it's almost a final polish in some cases (usually M205 is the final).
For deep scratches, you'll likely need to wet sand with #2000 paper...then remove the scratches with ScratchX 2.0.
Finally, finish-up with M205.
For those spots with peeling clear coat....you are SOL and will likely need a panel re-paint job.
You might get away with touching up the spots with a clear coating.
Good luck !

How do you figure M105 isn't aggressive?

[HCAD]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

Some thoughts to consider GT. Your Mitsu paint is 20 years old, and you've given us the info that the previous owner didn't care for it well. That alone makes me cautious to advise you on compounding. But, what's your end goal? Is this going to be a daily driver or a garage queen? If a daily, you may want to save as much of the remaining clear coat as possible (which honestly can't be much). I wouldn't worry about trying to remove every scratch unless in the back of your mind you feel like you're going to get it repainted soon anyway.

[syswizard]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

How do you figure M105 isn't aggressive?

Probably because I am using it by hand.
Here is what I think the compounds rate as aggressive to non-aggressive:
1) M-85
2) UC
3) ScratchX 2.0
4) M-105
5) M-205
Am I wrong ?

[Old Bear]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

M-105 is near or at the top.
Here is a link that speaks about different products and their "relative" cut levels.
Pay attention to the first few posts that speak about the products being designed for different application types.
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...t-surprise-you!

M85 uses DAT Diminishing Abrasive Technology, usually with rotary tools.
M105 uses the newer SMAT Super Microabrasive Technology, via rotary, DA or hand.
Technique and tool selection play important parts in the aggressiveness of the product.

Here is a thread were Mike Stoops compares some of the M8* series products with M105 & M205.
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?51800-What-s-the-difference-between-M80-M84-and-M85-versus-M105-M205-and-M07

[Nick Winn]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

M105 is not aggressive....in fact, it's almost a final polish in some cases (usually M205 is the final).
For deep scratches, you'll likely need to wet sand with #2000 paper...then remove the scratches with ScratchX 2.0.
Finally, finish-up with M205.
For those spots with peeling clear coat....you are SOL and will likely need a panel re-paint job.
You might get away with touching up the spots with a clear coating.
Good luck !

Probably because I am using it by hand.
Here is what I think the compounds rate as aggressive to non-aggressive:
1) M-85
2) UC
3) ScratchX 2.0
4) M-105
5) M-205
Am I wrong ?

M105 Ultra Cut Compound is one of our most aggressive compounds we make. If you are only working by hand, this will only give you limited experience in what any abrasive product can do, because you are limited in what you can get out by hand. So again, M105 is aggressive, one of our most aggressive.

[Nick Winn]

Re: Looking for help with m105 compound on older paint

Hello Everyone, I just joined the site and was hoping for a little assistance. I just purchased a black 1998 Mitsubishi a few months back and was looking to get the paint in tip top shape. The previous owners didn't care for the paint the way it should have been. It doesn't look bad from far away, but up close it looks like someone washed it with a broom - lots of scratches.

This is what I tried on a small section of the rear deck lid -

1) Washed and dried car
2) Used Clay Bar W/Meguiar's smooth clay kit & detail spray
3) Used Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 with a CCS Orange Pad on a Porter Cable DA polisher (One initial pass on setting 3-1/2, 3-4 passes on setting 5-1/2).
4) Duplicated Swirl remover step.

This took out most of the fine scratches, but not the deeper ones. I ran my nail across the paint where the deep scratches are, but I don't really feel them, so I don't think they are that deep and don't appear to be down to the primer at all.

5) Used Scratch X by hand - not much difference
6) Used Scratch X on orange pad w/ DA Polisher - took out some more fine scratches, but deeper ones are still there.


I was thinking about using the M105 Ultra Cut Compound, but I wasn't sure if this was too aggressive. The problem is there are several tiny spots on the hood and one or two on the roof and deck lid that look like the clear coat is starting to haze or peel. Nothing major, they are a little less than the size of an M&M right now. I am a little worried that the M105 will be too rough and start to really peel the clear coat. I was also thinking about maybe using the Ultimate Compound, but this may not be aggressive enough. Wondering what everyone else's experience has been on an older paint job such as this and what you used.

Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Some thoughts to consider GT. Your Mitsu paint is 20 years old, and you've given us the info that the previous owner didn't care for it well. That alone makes me cautious to advise you on compounding. But, what's your end goal? Is this going to be a daily driver or a garage queen? If a daily, you may want to save as much of the remaining clear coat as possible (which honestly can't be much). I wouldn't worry about trying to remove every scratch unless in the back of your mind you feel like you're going to get it repainted soon anyway.

HCAD has some good points here, unfortunately. As much as you probably want to compound ever scratch out to perfection, you are working with paint that already has beginning signs of failure in some areas. If you plan on getting re-painted, that is a different story.

Both M105 and Ultimate Compound are heavy cut compounds. The heaviest of the two is M105.

Personally I'd try Ultimate Compound first. I'd get green buff and shine, or maroon meguiar's foam cutting discs, or even the microfiber discs. Orange pads don't cut well. I can't for the life of me figure out why anyone uses them for anything. They too stiff to contour, and too smooth and soft to effectively cut when moistvqoth product. They also resist rotation. They might be ok with a finishing polish.

Agree that our Ultimate Compound applied with a foam cutting disc like our DFC5 Soft Buff DA Foam Cutting Disc would be a good next step. But again, you really have to set your expectations & from what it sounds like the paint is not in the best shape, and by compounding aggressively, it may start to fail sooner.