M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions
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Thread: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

          
  1. #1
    Datsunscott
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    M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    I am working on 1985 single stage opaque enamel paint on a huge extended van with a gelcoat fiberglass giant top.
    Its so bad I want to know difference between M100 M101 and M105. also wondering about M85.
    (Looking at paint safe polishing before other work/paint).

    I have some 105 and 205 here but havent tried the others.

    Any advice?

  2. #2
    Datsunscott
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Ps Im using a da and foam pads, everything is drying fast in this hot weather

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    Kinder Car Care Daniel Kinder's Avatar
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Datsunscott View Post
    I am working on 1985 single stage opaque enamel paint on a huge extended van with a gelcoat fiberglass giant top.
    Its so bad I want to know difference between M100 M101 and M105. also wondering about M85.
    (Looking at paint safe polishing before other work/paint).

    I have some 105 and 205 here but havent tried the others.

    Any advice?
    click on link below for video of what your needing to know about M100 M101 M105

    https://youtu.be/Ugl35QexkkQ
    ''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
    You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING''
    Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free

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    Kinder Car Care Daniel Kinder's Avatar
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Hey Datsunscott

    I know every paint is different and has different outcomes with different pads, products, speed of machine, pressure being applied, work area and so forth. With that being said, have you got and tried Meguiars Paint Recondition Cream?(Absolutely Love This Stuff!) I just polished a 92 GMC Single Stage Red Paint (just posted up, but not the greatest post>forgot how to size pics>sorry) using Meguiars micro fiber cutting pad (clean with compressed air after ever section your working on>Example: I break hood into 4 sections, unless its hard clear then into 6) Working clean as you know is Very Important and even more so on neglected Single Stage Paint.

    Preformed a test-spot first and found that the paint responded very well with my Rupes mkll 15 & again my Meguiars 5'' micro-fiber cutting pad on speed 4 1/2 with about 12-15 lbs pressure and making 3 slow section passes with more so then usually amount of product but on hood did have to do a 2nd step polish with a Harbor Frieght DA, polishing pad with M205 on speed 4 and with just 2 section passes with no more then about 10 lbs pressure using moderate arm speed. Didn't wipe off after each section (under canopy temp around 80's medium humity) and when did my 4 sections I then sprayed my foam polishing pad with Last Touch and used speed 3 weight of machine and sorta fast arm speed and did a horizontal pass over entire hood just to blend in. Hood was pretty bad shape, I was afraid of a burn through but luckily didn't happen.

    hope Ive helped or give some ideals to help out, don't forget that sometimes just because we've preformed a test spot that we can run into a section (hood, roof, trunk lid) that needs a different approach and technique and in some? occasions I've found that using more product on a freshly cleaned pad, slow arm speed and only 2 passes as worked for me.

    Also, if you haven't got a nano skin clay towel I highly recommend getting both, saves time and I use for everything especially cleaning headlights before I polish or wet sand on them. You wouldn't believe how much better the look after, plus saves your sand paper and/or pads from gumming up from contaminates.
    ''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
    You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING''
    Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free

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    Datsunscott
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Thanks for the info!I do have some D151 paint cream and really like it too.
    Would use it but found out it is not paintable/paint safe.

    And thanks for the link- it was no longer in the meguiars thread I was reading.

    I am polishing the van and gelcoat roof before doing some paint repairs and caulking around windows.
    I want it all polished before some stripe respray and clearcoating the stripes.

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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Datsunscott View Post
    I am working on 1985 single stage opaque enamel paint on a huge extended van with a gelcoat fiberglass giant top.
    Its so bad I want to know difference between M100 M101 and M105. also wondering about M85.
    (Looking at paint safe polishing before other work/paint).

    I have some 105 and 205 here but havent tried the others.

    Any advice?

    Polishing oxidized gel coat using 105 on a hot day is about as miserable as working conditions can get. You might try to spritz the pad with water (very little) to give yourself more working time.

    You are truly paying your dues working on this dog. Good luck

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    Registered Member drumdan's Avatar
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    M100 has more lubricants, but like M105, is LOADED with abrasives that you will get some dust.

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    Product & Training Specialist |MOL Admin Nick Winn's Avatar
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Just wanted to clarify, you are working on paint, correct? The gel coat/fiberglass is just the substrate, correct?

    With that said,

    If you are looking to get the best results, on this project, which requires a paintable product, our M100 Pro Speed Compound should be much easier to work with. Follow with our M205 Ultra Finishing Polish and you should be in great shape.
    Nick Winn
    Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Online Forum Administrator
    Meguiar's Inc.
    Irvine, CA
    nawinn@meguiars.com
    800-854-8073 ext 3845

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    Registered Member Alfisti's Avatar
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    Re: M100 vs M101 vs M105? cutting old single stage opaque D151 questions

    Just to concur with the above comments. I have and use all three compounds. All excellent with different workflows and results on different paint and weather conditions.

    I would also recommend M100 in your situation. M100 is a lot 'wetter' having more lubricants than the other two. I find it works much better and longer on older dry paint, especially single stage, which becomes quite porous with age and tends to **** all the lubricant out of the compound.
    Paul Marmarinos
    Flawless Prestige Car Detailing
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