Professional series questions

[Paulus.Chapman]

Hey all,

Have never used the Pro series products but would love too and need a little clarity.. I love Ultimate Polish from the consumer range but I'm confused as to where it would sit when compared to the Pro range.. My understanding is that M205 would be slightly more abrasive than UP and M09 would be slightly less abrasive than UP, is this correct? Do these both contain SMAT diminishing abrasives just like UP does?

I had great results on a test spot with UC followed by UP but feel UC may to be too heavy to use on my paint with a DA.. I understand the Pro range will allow me to open up my options here, I want something with just slightly more correction ability than UP and then to work right down towards something such as M07 before waxing etc.

Cheers again team!

[BillyJack]

M09 is an older-tech DAT product. I've used gallons of it over the years with a rotary as a swirl remover after compounding, but M205 has replaced it in my arsenal, now that I'm using a D/A much more than a rotary. M205 is very flexible with its ability to vary the cut depending on the pad used.
Don't be afraid of UC. Even on older paint, you'd have to use it over and over and over again to compromise your clearcoat. You should be able to accomplish removal of all but the worst defects with your UC /UP combo, but if you want something in between the two, I definitely would pick up some 205.

Bill

[Paulus.Chapman]

Cheers BillyJack, also saw your reply on my Detailing 101 thread about the same topic. Thank you for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.
I love UC but am slightly afraid to use it on the Silvia as I really dont want to leave behind any swirl marks etc.. (The Silvia is my baby) If used properly with a DA such as Meguiars D.A.P.S (With high quality corded drill) is there any chance of this occurring? I once used it with a cheap rotary tool and did leave behind some medium-light marks, but this was with a non DA rotary which I understand requires some real skill to use properly..
I have done several test spots on the bonnet and the test spot with UC followed by UP came up the best, so I was looking for a product with slightly less cut power and "safety" factor over UC.. I have also had several members say that cutting/polishing power can be altered with pad selection.. It seems to me UC may actually be a whole lot safer to use than what I think it is when a quality DA tool is used. (Im scared by my aforementioned result using UC with the cheap rotary haha..) Also, is the new M210 less abrasive or less abrasive than M205??
Cheers again!

[Old Bear]

Not many folks have had the opportunity to try the new M210 out yet.

In the announcement thread, you can see info from Joe, Nick and Mike.
It seems like M205 cuts more and that on some paints M210 finishes better.

https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...nishing-Polish

[Nick Winn]

M09 is an older-tech DAT product. I've used gallons of it over the years with a rotary as a swirl remover after compounding, but M205 has replaced it in my arsenal, now that I'm using a D/A much more than a rotary. M205 is very flexible with its ability to vary the cut depending on the pad used.
Don't be afraid of UC. Even on older paint, you'd have to use it over and over and over again to compromise your clearcoat. You should be able to accomplish removal of all but the worst defects with your UC /UP combo, but if you want something in between the two, I definitely would pick up some 205.

Bill

Agreed.

Cheers BillyJack, also saw your reply on my Detailing 101 thread about the same topic. Thank you for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.
I love UC but am slightly afraid to use it on the Silvia as I really dont want to leave behind any swirl marks etc.. (The Silvia is my baby) If used properly with a DA such as Meguiars D.A.P.S (With high quality corded drill) is there any chance of this occurring? I once used it with a cheap rotary tool and did leave behind some medium-light marks, but this was with a non DA rotary which I understand requires some real skill to use properly..
I have done several test spots on the bonnet and the test spot with UC followed by UP came up the best, so I was looking for a product with slightly less cut power and "safety" factor over UC.. I have also had several members say that cutting/polishing power can be altered with pad selection.. It seems to me UC may actually be a whole lot safer to use than what I think it is when a quality DA tool is used. (Im scared by my aforementioned result using UC with the cheap rotary haha..) Also, is the new M210 less abrasive or less abrasive than M205??
Cheers again!

Ultimate Compound does have the ability to leave behind light micro marring in situations especially on darker colored, more sensitive paints, when used by hand or D/A. This light micro marring can be easily removed with a follow up polish step, like Ultimate Polish or M205 Ultra Finishing Polish. D/A Polishers like our MT300 or D/A Power System Drill Attachment do not have the ability to leave behind "swirl" or "buffer trail" marks like you described previously, these are inflicted from the rotary machine you described using, and this is very normal. Keep in mind we also do not recommend any of our consumer compounds, cleaners, etc. be used with a rotary.

M210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish, although rated at the same cut on the front label, is less aggressive.

Like BillyJack mentioned previously, M09 Swirl Remover is old style technology. You do not need to hunt for products which are slightly less aggressive than one another & end up using 4 finish polish steps. In most cases, by hand, or D/A, we use a compound, followed by a polish, and then go straight to a protectant.

[BillyJack]

Polishing with a D/A is a whole different world than a rotary, as far as swirls. I've used it on hard paint, soft paints, even old single-stage lacquers, such as the OEM lacquer on my El Camino without any worries. You can look up older threads here from the various Thursday night open garages and see the results.
If you're going to get into this hobby, I do recommend investing in a polisher rather than the D.A.P.S. Not only will you get good results with less effort, you'll have something that has decent resale value if you decide to sell it later on. You don't need the expensive Flex or Rupes, as the less expensive machines are still more than adequate for a beginner. Just stay with nothing larger than a 5.5 inch pad and you'll be fine. There are multitudes of pads available, but the Meguiar's three-pad system is an excellent starting point.

Bill